Introduction
Follow this guide to replace the microphone in a Nintendo Switch 2 game console.
The Switch 2 uses JIS screws. If you use a non-iFixit Phillips driver in JIS screws, you'll risk stripping them. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be compatible with JIS screws.
You’ll need new thermal putty, not regular thermal paste, to complete this repair.
What you need
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Remove any game cards and disconnect any cables, controllers, or other accessories from the console.
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Power off the console by holding down the power button, selecting Power Options, then pressing Power Off.
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Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the two 3.1 mm‑long screws on either side of the bottom USB-C port.
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Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the 3.1 mm‑long screw on the top edge of the console (next to the ventilation cutouts).
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Use a hair dryer or heat gun to heat the sticker on the right side of the console, labeled with a "+" symbol, until it's hot to the touch.
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Slide one arm of angled tweezers underneath the sticker from its cutout around the right Joy‑Con 2 connector.
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Gently pry up on the sticker until it starts to lift from the console.
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Leave the tweezers in place to keep the sticker lifted.
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Tool used on this step:Jimmy$7.16
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Insert the tip of a Jimmy into the gap formed between the long edge of the console and the sticker.
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Gently pry up the sticker, working your way up the long edge until the top of the sticker is separated from the console.
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Remove the tweezers once the sticker is lifted.
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Reheat the bottom of the right side until it's hot to the touch.
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Carefully lift the sticker over the Joy‑Con 2 connector, then peel it up fully to remove it.
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Repeat this procedure to remove the sticker along the left side of the console, labeled with a "-" symbol.
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Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the two 3.6 mm‑long gold screws on each side of the console (four in total).
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Use your fingers to flip up the kickstand on the back of the console.
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Use a Y00 driver to remove the two 4.4 mm‑long screws in the kickstand cutout.
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Insert an opening pick into the gap between the back cover and speaker cutout on the bottom edge of the console.
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Insert a second opening pick underneath the screw hole on the opposite side of the USB-C port, and slide it to the corner of the console.
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Hold the console with two hands. Rest your thumbs on the opening picks.
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Push up on the opening picks to lift the back cover until it pops up above the USB-C port.
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Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the three 4.4 mm‑long silver screws securing the lower antenna.
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Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the two screws securing the upper antenna:
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One 4.4 mm‑long silver screw
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One 4.6 mm‑long green screw
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Insert an arm of angled tweezers under the metal neck of the white interconnect cable coaxial connector (located beneath the lower antenna) and lift straight up to disconnect it.
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Repeat this procedure to disconnect the three central coaxial connectors from the board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the MicroSD card reader press connector, located next to the bottom USB‑C port.
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Use a JIS 00 driver to remove the seven screws securing the shield plate:
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Two 6.2 mm‑long silver screws
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Five 4.4 mm‑long silver screws
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the shield plate and the processor's heat sink, next to the square (⛶) marking on the shield plate.
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Twist the spudger to lift the shield plate and separate the thermal putty bonded to it. Keep lifting the shield plate until you don't feel resistance.
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Insert one arm of angled tweezers underneath the gray antenna cable at the bottom-right corner of the console.
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Lift the cable out of the black clip securing it to the frame.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the flat-topped battery connector, located next to the battery, and pry up to disconnect it.
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Tool used on this step:Arctic Silver ArctiClean$9.99
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Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the thermal putty on top of the copper heat pipe.
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Apply high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol or thermal material remover to a cotton swab or lint-free cloth and wipe away any remaining thermal putty on both the heat pipe and shield plate.
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Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking flap on the microphone cable ZIF connector, located on the console's board.
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Pick up the microphone and pull its cable out of its socket to remove it.
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Congratulations on completing disassembly! The remaining steps will show how to reassemble your console.
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Align the microphone cable with its ZIF connector on the board.
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Insert the microphone cable into its connector, then set the microphone into its slot in the frame.
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Align the battery connector over its socket on the board.
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Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press the battery connector onto its socket until it's fully seated.
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Tool used on this step:iFixit Thermal Putty$9.95
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Apply a line of new thermal putty down the center of the heat pipe, roughly the thickness of a pea.
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Hold the top‑right corner of the shield plate above the top‑right corner of the console.
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Route the gray antenna cable underneath the black hook near the top corner of the frame.
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Lower the shield plate into place and align it with its screw holes.
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Route the gray antenna cable down its channel on the right edge of the frame.
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Use a JIS 00 driver to install the seven screws securing the shield plate:
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Two 6.2 mm‑long silver screws
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Five 4.4 mm‑long silver screws
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Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press the MicroSD card reader press connector onto its socket on the board.
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Use tweezers to hold the lower antenna coaxial connector in place over its socket and gently press down with your finger or a spudger—the connector should "snap" into place. If you're having trouble, reposition the head instead of using more force.
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Repeat this process to connect the three central coaxial connectors to their respective sockets.
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Use tweezers or your fingers to align the upper antenna with its screw holes and black alignment pegs and set it into place.
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Use a JIS 00 driver to install the two screws securing the upper antenna:
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One 4.4 mm‑long silver screw
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One 4.6 mm‑long green screw
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Use tweezers or your fingers to align the lower antenna with its screw holes and gray alignment pegs and set it into place.
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Use a JIS 00 driver to install the three 4.4 mm‑long screws securing the lower antenna.
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Fully pull out the game card tray.
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Double-check the power and volume buttons to ensure they're seated correctly. If the rubber membrane beneath the buttons is out of place, ensure it's aligned with its pegs.
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Check the microphone to ensure it's fully seated in its slot in the frame.
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Align the top of the back cover with the top of the console.
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Set the top edge of the back cover into place, checking the buttons and ports to ensure they're aligned properly. If they aren't, lift the back cover and try again.
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Press along the top edge to fasten the clips securing the back cover to the console.
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Use a JIS 00 driver to install the three 3.1 mm‑long screws securing the back cover: one on the top edge of the console, and two on either side of the bottom USB-C port.
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Use a Y00 driver to install the two 4.4 mm‑long screws in the kickstand cutout.
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Install the two 3.6 mm‑long gold screws on each side of the console (four in total).
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Power on the console and test functionality to ensure it's working as expected.
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Align the right side sticker with its recess. Ensure the cutout in the sticker is aligned with the Joy-Con connector.
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Set the sticker into its recess, first on one side, then the other.
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Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to press the sticker into place.
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You finished fixing your Switch 2!
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch 2 Answers Community for help.
