Introduction

Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit. The adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery before you begin this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive will damage your speakers if it comes in contact with the plastic speaker enclosures. This guide instructs you to remove the speakers before proceeding to the battery.

Image 1/1: Eight 3.1 mm
  • Remove the following pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.1 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

anonymous 1286 - Reply

Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

anonymous 1286 - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

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Image 1/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. Image 2/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips. Image 3/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.
  • The lower case has two plastic pegs (red) that fit into plastic clips in the upper case (orange).

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the case to its two plastic clips.

pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

jamiegan835 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Peel back the sticker covering the battery connector.

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Image 1/3: Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Image 2/3: Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board. Image 3/3: Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
  • Gently lift each side of the battery connector to pry the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the connector back toward the battery, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Be careful to pry against the connector, and not the cable or socket. Image 2/3: Be careful to pry against the connector, and not the cable or socket. Image 3/3: Be careful to pry against the connector, and not the cable or socket.
  • Disconnect the three AirPort antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the AirPort board and bend them up and out of the way.

  • Be careful to pry against the connector, and not the cable or socket.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel the right rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

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Image 1/2: Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket. Image 2/2: Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

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Image 1/3: The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Image 2/3: Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide. Image 3/3: On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.
  • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

  • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

  • On reassembly, there should be enough adhesive still on these cables to stick them back down to the fan.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board cable connector covers.

why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

Andrew Chu - Reply

Image 1/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Remove the left connector cover.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Remove the right connector cover.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right end of the I/O board cable up from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Remove the cable.
  • Peel the top I/O board cable up from the adhesive securing it to the fan.

  • Remove the cable.

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Image 1/1: One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder
  • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

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Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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Image 1/2: The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan. Image 2/2: Remove the fan.
  • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

  • Remove the fan.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel the left rubber cover up off the fan and fold it out of the way.

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Image 1/1: One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head
  • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a wide head

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with a 2.0 mm long shoulder

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

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Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

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Image 1/2: The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan. Image 2/2: Remove the fan.
  • Lift the fan and push it gently towards the back edge of the MacBook to free the fan cable from its socket.

    • The fan cable may be adhered to the logic board—to avoid tearing the cable, gently peel it up while lifting the fan.

  • Remove the fan.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket. Image 2/3: Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board. Image 3/3: Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Lift the end of the SSD up enough to pass over the speaker directly behind it.

    • Do not lift the SSD too high, or you could damage the contacts or socket.

  • Pull the SSD straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. Image 2/3: Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts. Image 3/3: Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.
  • Use the point of a spudger to flip up the locking mechanism on the I/O board connector.

  • Flip the spudger around and use the flat end to slide the I/O cable out of the connector.

  • Push on the opened locking mechanism for an easy way to slide the I/O cable out of the connector. This could help prevent accidental damage to the cable or connector contacts.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws from the I/O board.

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Image 1/2: Remove the I/O board. Image 2/2: Remove the I/O board.
  • Slightly lift the interior edge of the I/O board and pull it toward the center of the MacBook, away from the side of the case.

  • Remove the I/O board.

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Image 1/2: Remove the cover. Image 2/2: Remove the cover.
  • Remove the two 2.2 mm Torx T5 screws securing the touchpad cable connector cover to the logic board.

  • Remove the cover.

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Image 1/3: Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets. Image 2/3: Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket. Image 3/3: Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the touchpad cable connector from its socket in the logic board.

  • Slightly twisting the flat end of a spudger is an easy way to pry up the cable connector from these types of sockets.

  • Be careful to only pry up against the connector, and not the logic board socket.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove a small rubber cap off the screw at the end of the heat sink.

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Image 1/1: One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw (this one is silver and has a taller head than the others)

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.2 mm T5 Torx screw

  • On reassembly, start all six screws but do not tighten any of them. Move the logic board around until all of the screws are centered in their holes and the ports are lined up with their openings in the side of the upper case. Then tighten all of the screws.

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Image 1/1: Microphone cable
  • The following steps will detail disconnecting these six connectors. Be sure to read each step, as these connectors come in different styles that disconnect differently.

    • Microphone cable

    • Left speaker cable

    • Keyboard data cable

    • Right speaker cable

    • Keyboard backlight cable

    • Display data cable

  • On reassembly, check to make sure all of these connectors are connected and fully seated in their sockets.

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Image 1/3: Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board. Image 2/3: Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board. Image 3/3: Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket, parallel to the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Image 2/3: Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board. Image 3/3: Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

  • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard data cable connector.

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Image 1/3: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Image 2/3: Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up. Image 3/3: Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard data cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the keyboard data cable out of its ZIF socket. Be sure to pull parallel to the logic board, and not straight up.

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Image 1/3: Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board. Image 2/3: Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board. Image 3/3: Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure to pry on the cable connector and not on the socket on the logic board. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

  • Gently fold the cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the point of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the MagSafe 2 power port side of the computer.

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Image 1/3: Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Image 2/3: Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins. Image 3/3: Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.
  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    • Do not touch the contacts on the data connector or its socket with your fingers or any tools, as you may deposit oils or damage the pins.

  • Gently bend the display data cable toward the display hinge, to expose the screws on the MagSafe 2 board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws from the MagSafe 2 board.

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Image 1/3: When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case. Image 2/3: When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case. Image 3/3: When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.
  • Lift and pull the entire logic board assembly away from the wall of the upper case.

  • When reassembling, be sure to line up the ports with their cutouts in the upper case.

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Image 1/1: 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the left speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.

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Image 1/1: 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

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Image 1/2: Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case. Image 2/2: On reassembly, tuck the cable up against the aluminum frame above the battery.
  • The right speaker cable is lightly adhered to the upper case.

  • Peel the right speaker cable up to free it from the upper case.

  • On reassembly, tuck the cable up against the aluminum frame above the battery.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the right speaker by pulling it slightly away from the side of the upper case, and out from under the aluminum tab blocking it in.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel back the tape covering the trackpad connector ribbon cable, near the front edge of the MacBook Pro.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the black locking tab on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF connector.

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Image 1/3: Carefully slide your pick underneath the length of the ribbon cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery. Image 2/3: Carefully slide your pick underneath the length of the ribbon cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery. Image 3/3: Carefully slide your pick underneath the length of the ribbon cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery.
  • Insert an opening pick between the trackpad ribbon cable and the battery.

  • Carefully slide your pick underneath the length of the ribbon cable to separate the adhesive securing it to the battery.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the trackpad ribbon cable.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.

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Image 1/2: In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery. Image 2/2: In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.
  • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book.

    • In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.

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Image 1/2: iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant. Image 2/2: Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
  • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

  • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

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Image 1/2: Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover. Image 2/2: It's best to fill the syringe with no more than about 1-2 milliliters of adhesive remover at a time, so as to avoid accidentally applying too much.
  • Open your container of adhesive remover.

  • Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover.

    • It's best to fill the syringe with no more than about 1-2 milliliters of adhesive remover at a time, so as to avoid accidentally applying too much.

    • Refill your syringe as needed throughout the rest of this procedure.

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Image 1/2: Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step. Image 2/2: Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.
  • Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

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Image 1/3: It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case. Image 2/3: Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case. Image 3/3: Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.
  • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell.

    • It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case.

  • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.

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Image 1/2: Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step. Image 2/2: Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
  • Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it.

  • Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

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Image 1/3: Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step. Image 2/3: Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step. Image 3/3: Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.
  • Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

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Image 1/3: Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath. Image 2/3: Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or [https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/HdJgFHfXyTbjfOTD.huge|flip them over|new_window=true]) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step. Image 3/3: Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or [https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/HdJgFHfXyTbjfOTD.huge|flip them over|new_window=true]) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
  • Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell.

  • Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath.

  • Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro.

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Image 1/3: Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer left battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate. Image 2/3: Work one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell, and slide the card fully underneath the battery cell to separate it. Image 3/3: Do the same for the adjacent cell.
  • Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side:

    • Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer left battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate.

    • Work one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell, and slide the card fully underneath the battery cell to separate it.

    • Do the same for the adjacent cell.

    • Leave your plastic card in place or flip the battery cells over to prevent them from re-adhering during the following steps.

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Image 1/2: Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue. Image 2/2: Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.
  • With the left edge of your MacBook Pro still propped up, apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of adhesive remover down the center line between the two middle battery cells.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

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Image 1/3: Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place. Image 2/3: Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering. Image 3/3: Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.
  • Slide one corner of a plastic card between the middle two cells, and under the elevated edge of the center-right battery cell.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

    • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already. This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell.

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Image 1/3: Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable. Image 2/3: Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering. Image 3/3: Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.
  • Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the lower center cell.

  • Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable.

  • Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

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Image 1/3: Push the other card in a little further and leave it in place to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering as you continue. Image 2/3: Push the other card in a little further and leave it in place to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering as you continue. Image 3/3: Push the other card in a little further and leave it in place to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering as you continue.
  • Remove the first plastic card that you inserted under the center-right battery cell.

  • Push the other card in a little further and leave it in place to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering as you continue.

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Image 1/2: With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again. Image 2/2: With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again.
  • Remove your book or foam block.

  • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again.

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Image 1/2: Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue. Image 2/2: Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.
  • Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of adhesive remover between the two center battery cells, so that it flows underneath the remaining battery cell.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

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Image 1/3: Push the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place. Image 2/3: Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering. Image 3/3: Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.
  • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the elevated edge of the final battery cell.

  • Push the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

  • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • If you haven't already done so, lift and flip the two outer left battery cells to clear access to the outside edge of the final battery cell.

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Image 1/3: Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the final battery cell. Image 2/3: Slide your card all the way underneath the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering. Image 3/3: Slide your card all the way underneath the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.
  • Repeat the process you used on the center-right battery cell to finish separating the adhesive on the center-left cell:

    • Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the final battery cell.

    • Slide your card all the way underneath the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the first card that you inserted under the final battery cell.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro.

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Image 1/2: Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case. Image 2/2: With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.
  • Lift and remove the battery.

  • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each strip of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with a plastic tool. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

  • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place.

  • Calibrate your battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.

  • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

4 other people completed this guide.

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

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6 Comments

Do I need to remove all these things just to replace the battery or can I just remove the connectors above the battery than the battery?

Tony - Reply

I made it within 1 hour doing Steps 1-5, then Steps 46-50.

I removed battery heating the aluminium frame in the location of battery pack on the opposite side of the frame with NTE HG-300D Mini Heat Gun, and then gently peeling this battery pack with plastic spudger. You may need to reheat the area several times.

For 2 central battery elements you can't heat aluminium frame because they are below touchpad, so I peeled batteries a little bit with spudger, heated the underneath gently, and then peeled it again. Also dental floss could help cutting the glue underneath the battery.

pzhivulin - Reply

These batteries appear to be actual Apple batteries. How did iFixit remove them from the case? If iFixit didn't, were they able to get replacement batteries directly from Apple (since the adhesive is already installed)?

plink53 - Reply

Battery seems to be working fine but trackpad and keyboard no longer work. They were working fine before I changed the battery. I checked the trackkpad cable but that seems fine and inserted properly. Reset SMC but still not working.

Jaime Hovey - Reply

Might want to disconnect and reconnect both cables (in the case of the trackpad cable, do this at both ends). Compare with the photos to make sure they're inserted far enough. Check carefully for any sign of physical damage to the cables, connectors, or the board itself. If you continue to have trouble, consider taking your question over to the Answers forum for more suggestions. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Thanks Jeff! I'm afraid this repair is a wash. Trackpad won't even click. I will ask around.

Jaime Hovey - Reply

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