Introduction

Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit. The adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery before you begin this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive will damage your speakers if it comes in contact with the plastic speaker enclosures. This guide instructs you to remove the speakers before proceeding to the battery.

Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
  • Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:

    • Eight 3.0 mm

    • Two 2.3 mm

To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

lantzero - Reply

In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

Christian Mohr -

The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

Sam Lionheart -

Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

michaelmohajer -

will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

drscottgreenwell - Reply

Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

cloughenough -

This works for rMBP 2012 late

iyeori -

Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

didierma - Reply

If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

iyeori - Reply

Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

Epifanio - Reply

It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

floyd - Reply

Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

Emilio Mejia - Reply

I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

Alvaro Suarez - Reply

Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

Jose David Valle -

Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

brian2burnett - Reply

Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
  • Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.

  • Set the lower case aside.

Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

jamiegan835 - Reply

I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

Tim Peat -

I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

This is a "PC" habit.

On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

crus - Reply

Hey,

Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

Regards

Jose David Valle -

This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

Andrew Fox -

I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

Thanks for help.

c4rlosv8 - Reply

There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

Tim Peat -

Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.
  • Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.

For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

iyeori - Reply

Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

g000phy - Reply

Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

max damage -

Why is this step necessary?

67b5ebab - Reply

67b5ebab Good question !

Why is this necessary ?

bigb19791979 - Reply

This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

Hope that helps!!

~the more you know~

Colin Devenney - Reply

Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
  • Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.

I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

Joel Replogle - Reply

Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

Jer - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the three AirPort antenna cables straight up off of their sockets on the AirPort board.

are the 3 cables identify ?

darryll - Reply

will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

Oleg Babko - Reply

Yes, this voids your warranty.

max damage -

If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

Delta - Reply

These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

Alvin Chua - Reply

I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

is there a way to replace the antenna?

Fabian Schweinfurth - Reply

unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

Arn Custodio - Reply

The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

joey - Reply

Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

Thomas Kunjappu - Reply

Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

Jer -

After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

cabcpa - Reply

Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

tmm - Reply

Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

Jer -

travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

Jasper - Reply

I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

Douglas Johnston - Reply

Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

Douglas Johnston - Reply

Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

Radoslaw Przybyl - Reply

the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

Frederick Rae - Reply

The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

Sam Jomaa - Reply

Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

Sam Jomaa - Reply

tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

Jon Ocampo - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push the camera cable connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to push parallel to the board, pushing first on one side, then the other to "walk" the connector out of its socket.

I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

Sergey - Reply

Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

bhayes9614 -

This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

mayer - Reply

If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

noahtfu - Reply

Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

kramerigor - Reply

the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

micheleroger - Reply

Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

Jason Amri -

Push on the little wings, from right to left.

Julian Wood - Reply

This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

Jon Ocampo - Reply

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan. Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive. Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rubber heat sink cover on the right fan.

  • Slide the spudger underneath the length of the cover, releasing the adhesive.

  • Lift the cover and flip it back so that you can access the cables underneath.

Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

cahcadden - Reply

Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan. The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them. Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.
  • Use your fingers to pull the AirPort/Camera cables up off the fan.

    • The cables are adhered to the fan, so peel them up carefully to avoid damaging them.

  • Carefully de-route the cables from the plastic cable guide.

It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

PriorityMail - Reply

Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.  On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex. In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board. Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.
  • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the I/O Board connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board. On reassembly, connect this end first as it does not flex.

  • In a similar fashion, remove the I/O Board connector from its socket on the I/O Board.

  • Remove the I/O Board cable from the MacBook Pro.

Add Comment

Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.
  • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort card to the logic board.

Add Comment

Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro. Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.
  • Grasp the thin sides of the AirPort card and pull parallel to the logic board, removing the AirPort card from the MacBook Pro.

As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

stvn chng - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the right fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the right fan cable to free it from the logic board.

  • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board.

I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

Alvin Chua - Reply

Easier to do while removing fan.

mayer - Reply

The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

Kitipong Mork - Reply

Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:
  • Remove the following three screws securing the right fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar

Add Comment

Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.
  • Lift and remove the right fan out from the MacBook Pro.

Add Comment

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the rubber heat sink cover up off the left fan.

This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

RT0 - Reply

I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

spearson - Reply

Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

Jer - Reply

Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:
  • Remove the following three screws securing the left fan to the logic board:

    • One 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw with 2 mm collar.

    • One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

check if screw marking here is right

Oleg - Reply

One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

best regards,

Seth

sethroot - Reply

seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

ryanbraganza - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Starting at the top of the cable, slide a plastic opening tool under the left fan cable to free it from the logic board.

    • Use caution when freeing the cable, as it is strongly adhered to the logic board. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the cable in order to soften the adhesive and make it easier to remove.

  • Lift the left fan out of the device.

a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

Albert Einstein - Reply

I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

maccentric - Reply

be nice, silly

Richard RUNGE - Reply

I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

orders - Reply

Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
  • Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

Lorte Messenger - Reply

I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

Dave Miller -

For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

Elaine - Reply

The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

Ryan Tucker -

I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

Dave Miller - Reply

OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

Dave Miller -

It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

Toan Tran - Reply

Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board. Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Slightly lift the rightmost side of the SSD and firmly slide it straight away out of its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer. Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the I/O board data cable lock and rotate it toward the battery side of the computer.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to slide the I/O board data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the I/O board data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

Robert Jan Lebbink - Reply

Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board. Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.
  • Remove the two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the I/O board to the logic board.

  • Carefully lift the I/O board and remove it from the lower case.

This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

Jer - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the right speaker connector up and out of its socket on the logic board

  • Be sure to pry on the cable head, and not on the socket itself. Prying on the socket may cause it to separate from the logic board.

Add Comment

Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
  • Peel back the tape covering the top of the keyboard ribbon cable connector.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy

Jennifer McAuliffe - Reply

The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the trackpad ribbon cable connector up out of its socket.

Add Comment

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the keyboard backlight connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.
  • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

Add Comment

Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

Add Comment

Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry off the rubber screw cap on the raised screw head near the MagSafe 2 connector.

Add Comment

Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:
  • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to to the upper case:

    • One 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 5.5 mm silver, raised-head T5 Torx screw

    • Two 5.7 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.8 mm silver T5 Torx screw

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Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro. You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.
  • Lifting from the side nearest the battery, rotate the logic board toward the top of the MacBook Pro.

    • You may need to slide the logic board a few millimeters to the left in order to get clearance for the ports along the right edge of the board.

  • Using the flat end of a spudger, carefully push the MagSafe 2 connector out of its socket on the bottom of the logic board.

I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.

Derek Gelormini - Reply

Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.
  • Remove the logic board assembly from the MacBook Pro.

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Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case: One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following three screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  • Lift the left speaker out of the upper case and set it aside.

On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

Fred Anderson - Reply

Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

Jer - Reply

Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case: One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following three screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.9 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw

  • Remove the right speaker from the MacBook Pro.

My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

Fred Anderson - Reply

Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.
  • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery board.

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The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.
  • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

  • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

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With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book. In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right  (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.
  • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up at a slight angle, using a sturdy foam block or book.

    • In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover to the right (outer) edge of the battery. Keeping this side of the MacBook Pro elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.

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Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
  • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

  • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

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Open your container of adhesive remover. Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover.
  • Open your container of adhesive remover.

  • Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover.

    • It's best to fill the syringe with no more than about 1-2 milliliters of adhesive remover at a time, so as to avoid accidentally applying too much.

    • Refill your syringe as needed throughout the rest of this procedure.

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Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell. Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.
  • Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly along the elevated edge of the outer right battery cell.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

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Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell. It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case. Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.
  • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the outer edge of the battery cell.

    • It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook Pro's case.

  • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the MacBook Pro's upper case.

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Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it. Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
  • Lift the battery cell to separate it from the MacBook Pro's upper case, but don't try to remove it.

  • Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

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Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell. Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step. Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.
  • Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly along the elevated edge of the next battery cell.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

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Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell. Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath. Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
  • Slide one corner of your plastic card underneath the second battery cell.

  • Push the card underneath the second battery cell, and slide it side to side to separate the adhesive underneath.

  • Leave the plastic card underneath both battery cells (or flip them over) to prevent them from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

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It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro. Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side: Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate.
  • It's time to switch sides. Remove your book or foam block and place it under the opposite side of your MacBook Pro.

  • Repeat the procedure from the prior steps to separate the two battery cells on this side:

    • Apply your adhesive remover to the elevated edge of the outer battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate.

    • Work one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell, and slide the card fully underneath the battery cell to separate it.

    • Do the same for the adjacent cell.

    • Leave your plastic card in place or flip the battery cells over to prevent them from re-adhering during the following steps.

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With the left edge of your MacBook Pro still propped up, apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of adhesive remover  down the center line between the two middle battery cells. Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.
  • With the left edge of your MacBook Pro still propped up, apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of adhesive remover down the center line between the two middle battery cells.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

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Slide one corner of a plastic card between the middle two cells, and under the elevated edge of the center-right battery cell. Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place. Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.
  • Slide one corner of a plastic card between the middle two cells, and under the elevated edge of the center-right battery cell.

  • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

  • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

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Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already.  This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell. Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already.  This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell. Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already.  This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell.
  • Flip the two de-adhered right-hand battery cells over the front edge of the MacBook Pro, if you haven’t already. This will allow access to the outside edge of the center cell.

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Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the lower center cell. Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable.
  • Push one corner of a plastic card below the plastic battery frame and underneath the remaining adhered edge of the lower center cell.

  • Do not pry along the edge nearest the battery connector, or you risk damaging the keyboard ribbon cable.

  • Slide your card all the way under the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

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Remove the first plastic card that you inserted under the center-right battery cell. Remove the first plastic card that you inserted under the center-right battery cell.
  • Remove the first plastic card that you inserted under the center-right battery cell.

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Remove your book or foam block. With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again.
  • Remove your book or foam block.

  • With the front edge of the MacBook Pro facing you, lift the right side and prop it up once again.

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Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of adhesive remover between the two center battery cells, so that it flows underneath the remaining battery cell. Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.
  • Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of adhesive remover between the two center battery cells, so that it flows underneath the remaining battery cell.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you continue.

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Slide one corner of a plastic card under the elevated edge of the final battery cell. Push the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place. Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.
  • Slide one corner of a plastic card under the elevated edge of the final battery cell.

  • Push the card farther underneath the battery cell to slice through the adhesive securing it in place.

  • Don't try to fully separate this battery cell yet. Leave your plastic card in place to prevent it from re-adhering.

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Repeat the process you used on the center-right battery cell to finish separating the adhesive on the center-left cell:
  • Repeat the process you used on the center-right battery cell to finish separating the adhesive on the center-left cell:

    • Lift and flip the two outer battery cells to clear access to the remaining adhered edge of the center-left battery cell.

    • Slide your card all the way underneath the battery cell, and leave it to prevent the battery cell from re-adhering.

    • Remove the first card that you inserted under this battery cell in the previous step.

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With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro. With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro.
  • With one plastic card underneath each of the two center battery cells, twist and lift both cards to fully separate the battery cells, together with the plastic frame and battery board, from the MacBook Pro.

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Lift and remove the battery. Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.
  • Lift and remove the battery.

  • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each strip of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with a plastic tool. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

  • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

  • Calibrate your battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.

  • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

15 other people completed this guide.

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 08/06/2013

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12 Comments

This looks amazingly complicated!!! I've seen Youtube videos just removing the battery with solvent, and being careful. Why removing everything beforehand?

anonymous 3232 - Reply

There's nothing physically stopping you from going straight for the battery. However, it's difficult to control where the solvent goes with 100% accuracy, so if you're at all concerned about your solvent affecting other components, it's safer to remove them first. We've tested a lot of solvents and found that some are much safer to spread around, but not very effective at separating the battery. So yes, depending on the solvent used and the exact model of your MacBook Pro, the procedure could be very different!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi Jeff, thanks for the explanation, very helpful. In the meantime, I have realised you don't ship out of the US... pity!

anonymous 3232 - Reply

Thanks so much for that link! And thanks to the guy who came up with it. I think I found a much faster way to go than thick nylon.

I couldn't find a nylon cord big enough. But I realized (being a guy from jersey) that it looked like something I'd seen happen in so many 80's mob films to someone who had to be taken care of. So i looked around for a thin metal wire and found it on my guitar! Wrap each end around a nail or something so you can hold it tight. And the metal wire really effectively cuts through the glue. The thin diameter makes it easier.

Didn't have to take out a single component.

Seth Piezas -

Or if you have an Apple Store nearby, they'll do the work for $129 which is worth the risk IMO. https://support.apple.com/mac/repair/ser...

Phatcat - Reply

It's actually $199 for Retina MacBook Pros, but yes you're right and that's certainly an option if you're close to an Apple Store—at least until the 5-year mark when Apple stops servicing them (which on the 2013 models will be as soon as next year).

Jeff Suovanen -

Also they take your computer for several days. You can do this repair in a few hours. (or shorter if you use the string method along with solvent, as mentioned above)

tod -

I did a modified version of this to replace my battery: Steps 1-4, then Steps 34-. I didn't feel comfortable removing the logic board.

I controlled the flow of the solvent by tilting the computer by the hinge so any excess solvent would flow towards the front of the computer.

After being very sparing with the solvent and letting it sit for several minutes, I used the string method mentioned above. I think without the solvent, using the string would be very difficult, but with the solvent, the adhesive became gummy and easy to pull through.

tod - Reply

I just did this replacement but used solvent + string. Seems to work great. Solvent weakens the adhesive, string breaks it.

A small writeup here: https://todbot.com/blog/2017/07/08/repla...

tod - Reply

Thanks for the link to your method - just followed your procedure and it worked great! Entire process probably took about 45 minutes total and that was taking my time.

Mark Weishaar -

Hey guys, i changed my battery following the guide and using the ifix it kit, i did a full SMC and PRAM reset but for some strange reason completely randomly the computer will crash make the screen completely black and after a while it’ll shutdown by itself, i just reset it and it works fine but i’d love some advice on the matter

aerorth - Reply

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