Introduction

Use this guide to replace the upper case, which includes the keyboard.

Some replacement upper case assemblies may include the trackpad and battery as well. In this case, skip steps 18 through 44.

This guide requires the removal of the heat sink. Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.

Image 1/1: Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws

For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

Carlos - Reply

Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

hello -

Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

Alex Birkett - Reply

Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

addvariety -

the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013?

Edison - Reply

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

marketing - Reply

Image 1/1: Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.

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Image 1/2: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. Image 2/2: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
  • The lower case is connected to the upper case with two plastic clips near its center.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

There are two screws that are shorter-they go to the back near the vent.

wrbandllm - Reply

This was already mentioned at the start, it says 2x 2.3mm screws and those are coloured red instead of orange for the other ones in iFixit's image.

addvariety - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • If necessary, remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

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Image 1/2: Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, '''not''' the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board. Image 2/2: Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, '''not''' the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you lift up only on the connector itself, not the socket, or you risk permanent damage to the logic board.

I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

jramsey21 - Reply

I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

salvatorebarbera -

Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

andrehedegaard -

Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

Steve - Reply

Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

Vadim Gribanov -

When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

Ethan Tarquin - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Bend the battery connector up out of the way to prevent accidental contact with its socket during your repair.

If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

sebasgaes - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket.

At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

Martin Gray - Reply

This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

barak - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Grasp the I/O board cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the MacBook.

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Image 1/2: Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, '''not''' on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board. Image 2/2: Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, '''not''' on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful to only pry up on the I/O board cable, not on the socket itself or you risk damaging your logic board.

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Image 1/2: To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable. Image 2/2: To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.
  • Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.

  • To avoid damage to the cable, fold only at the bend in the I/O board end of the cable.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

barak - Reply

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.

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Image 1/1: One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.

Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

barak - Reply

Image 1/1: One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

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Image 1/3: Be careful '''not''' to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case. Image 2/3: Be careful '''not''' to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case. Image 3/3: Be careful '''not''' to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.
  • Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out the battery to remove it from the upper case.

  • Be careful not to snag the speaker cable on the screw hole post in the side of the case.

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Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave. Image 2/2: For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the five 3.7 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery to the upper case.

In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

adriendavernas - Reply

The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

alex - Reply

Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

chal740 - Reply

What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?

dfreeman110 -

I wish to ask the same question.

vbivanov -

My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

Vince Cipriani -

I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

brian whittle - Reply

On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

MarkB - Reply

After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

maxB - Reply

I only had the single far right screw to remove.

barak - Reply

Image 1/2: Alternatively, if you are using the hot iOpener method, skip the following three steps. Image 2/2: iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
  • If you have an iFixit battery kit with liquid adhesive remover, it's time to get it prepped.

  • Alternatively, if you are using the hot iOpener method, skip the following three steps.

  • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

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Image 1/2: Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover. Image 2/2: It's best to fill the syringe with no more than about 1-2 milliliters of adhesive remover at a time, so as to avoid accidentally applying too much.
  • Open your container of adhesive remover.

  • Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover.

    • It's best to fill the syringe with no more than about 1-2 milliliters of adhesive remover at a time, so as to avoid accidentally applying too much.

    • Refill your syringe as needed throughout the rest of this procedure.

Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

aadeshina - Reply

Image 1/1: Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.
  • Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly under the edge of the rightmost battery cell.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

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Image 1/2: Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the two right-most battery cells. Image 2/2: After about a minute, reheat the iOpener and move it to cover the other half of the right-most battery cells.
  • If you don't have a liquid adhesive remover, you'll be using a hot iOpener to warm and soften a section of the adhesive securing the battery to the upper case, and then carefully prying at that point.

  • Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the two right-most battery cells.

  • After about a minute, reheat the iOpener and move it to cover the other half of the right-most battery cells.

I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

Alex Birkett - Reply

I popped the freaking iopener in the microwave following this instruction. Said to heat for 30 secs put on for a minute then reheat after that minute. Then read on the iopener that I shouldn't heat more the once unless after two minutes. Just wonderful.

Jennifer Myer - Reply

I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

barak - Reply

Image 1/2: Throughout this procedure, be careful not to damage any of the battery cells with your tools. A damaged lithium-ion battery may leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Use only plastic pry tools. Image 2/2: When using the hot iOpener method, if you encounter significant resistance to prying, stop and use the iOpener to reheat the section you're working on.
  • Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two.

  • Throughout this procedure, be careful not to damage any of the battery cells with your tools. A damaged lithium-ion battery may leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. Use only plastic pry tools.

  • When using the hot iOpener method, if you encounter significant resistance to prying, stop and use the iOpener to reheat the section you're working on.

In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

MarkB - Reply

Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

Sean - Reply

Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

Alex - Reply

Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

Sam Lionheart -

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the plastic card to pry the right-most battery cell up from the rear case.

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Image 1/3: Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive. Image 2/3: Alternatively, re-heat this section with your iOpener if needed. Image 3/3: Push a plastic card about an inch between the battery cell and the upper case, and slowly pry the cell up to separate all of the adhesive.
  • Repeat this procedure with the adjacent battery cell:

    • Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Alternatively, re-heat this section with your iOpener if needed.

    • Push a plastic card about an inch between the battery cell and the upper case, and slowly pry the cell up to separate all of the adhesive.

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Image 1/3: If using an iOpener, reheat it and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells. Image 2/3: Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells. Image 3/3: Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.
  • Temporarily leave your plastic card underneath the two rightmost battery cells to prevent them from re-adhering to the upper case.

  • If using an iOpener, reheat it and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells.

    • Again, leave the iOpener in each position for about a minute, reheating in between, to heat each half of the left-most battery cells.

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Image 1/3: Remember to apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of adhesive remover to each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive. Image 2/3: Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case. Image 3/3: Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.
  • Repeat the above procedure to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

    • Remember to apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of adhesive remover to each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Use a second plastic card to separate the two leftmost battery cells from the upper case.

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Image 1/1: In the following steps, you can either use a third card, or the card from the right corner. The right corner adhesive should be dry/cool enough that the cells can easily be pulled up again when needed.
  • Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells.

  • In the following steps, you can either use a third card, or the card from the right corner. The right corner adhesive should be dry/cool enough that the cells can easily be pulled up again when needed.

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Image 1/2: It may help to elevate one side of your MacBook Pro a few inches so that the adhesive remover flows in the correct direction, underneath the battery cells. You can use a sturdy book or foam block to prop up one side of your MacBook Pro while you work. Image 2/2: Insert the card about an inch between the left-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and the case.
  • To separate the adhesive securing the final two, middle battery cells, apply another 1 milliliter or so of liquid adhesive remover (or your iOpener) to each cell.

    • It may help to elevate one side of your MacBook Pro a few inches so that the adhesive remover flows in the correct direction, underneath the battery cells. You can use a sturdy book or foam block to prop up one side of your MacBook Pro while you work.

    • Insert the card about an inch between the left-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and the case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Pull the card back out and insert it about an inch between the right-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and case.

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Image 1/2: Pry up on the two center cells to separate the last of the adhesive and lift the battery from the device. Image 2/2: Pry up on the two center cells to separate the last of the adhesive and lift the battery from the device.
  • By this point, the outer cells should be free, and you should only encounter resistance from the two center cells. If this is not the case, go back and completely loosen the four outer-most cells from the upper case.

  • Pry up on the two center cells to separate the last of the adhesive and lift the battery from the device.

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Image 1/2: Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case. Image 2/2: With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.
  • Remove the battery.

  • Before installing your new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

  • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place.

  • Calibrate your battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.

  • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

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Image 1/1: Be careful '''not''' to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.
  • Place a reheated iOpener over the trackpad cover plate to soften the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener.

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Image 1/3: Go slowly and carefully to avoid putting any visible creases in the plate. Image 2/3: Go slowly and carefully to avoid putting any visible creases in the plate. Image 3/3: Go slowly and carefully to avoid putting any visible creases in the plate.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the trackpad cover plate up from the upper case.

  • Go slowly and carefully to avoid putting any visible creases in the plate.

This adhesive was extremely strong for me and took quite a while to soften up (longer than batteries). I ended up using my wife's blow dryer after the heat pad struggled with it. Just take your time.

Vince Cipriani - Reply

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use a plastic opening tool to slowly and carefully peel the trackpad cover plate up off the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Gently peel the plate up to remove it.

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Image 1/1:
  • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the trackpad cable connector.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

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Image 1/1:
  • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Gently pry the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case. Image 2/2: Gently pry the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the upper case opening where the trackpad ribbon cable passes is routed through.

  • Gently pry the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

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Image 1/1: Four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the trackpad brackets to the trackpad and upper case.

    • Four 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Four 1.7 mm T5 Torx screws

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use tweezers to remove the two trackpad mounting brackets from the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Carefully guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case. Image 2/2: This will push the trackpad up out of its recess in the top of the upper case.
  • To avoid scratching the display, open the computer about 90º and set it on end.

  • Carefully guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case.

  • This will push the trackpad up out of its recess in the top of the upper case.

  • Guide the trackpad out of the upper casewith your other hand, so it doesn't fall.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Gently pull the trackpad away from the upper case, being careful not to snag the ribbon cable.

Regarding the re-assembly once the trackpad is back in place, be careful when re-fitting the batteries; the adhesive which takes so long to separate may not hold the batteries to the chassis upon re-fitting. It may be necessary to use thin double-sided foam tape to ensure that the batteries are held firmly in place once again so that vibration does not cause the connections between the batteries to fail.

MarkB - Reply

If your new trackpad won't fit into place, loosen the screw at the bottom, center of the case (you can see it in the step 36 pic). Don't forget to tighten it back up. This screw affects the amount of play and click in the mouse, so fine tune it until the pad clicks to your liking.

Vince Cipriani - Reply

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Grab the black plastic tab to flip the display cable connector open and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Pull the DC-In board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1: You may need to gently push the display cable out of the way to expose the screws.
  • Remove the two 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the MagSafe DC-In board to the upper case.

  • You may need to gently push the display cable out of the way to expose the screws.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use the MagSafe DC-In board cable to pull the board out and up from the upper case to remove it.

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Image 1/3: The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. Image 2/3: The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct. Image 3/3: The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.
  • Carefully remove the rubber fan bumper from the edge of the heat sink.

  • The fan bumper wraps around the heat sink and fits into slots in the fan duct. During reassembly, be sure to fit the tabs into the notches in the fan duct.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the four foam stickers off of the heat sink screws.

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Image 1/1: Four 2.6 mm T5 screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the heat sink:

    • Four 2.6 mm T5 screws

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw

      • In the Early 2015 model, this is a silver 2.7 mm T5 screw.

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Image 1/2: Use the [guide|744|thermal paste application guide] to reapply the thermal paste before reassembly. Image 2/2: Use the [guide|744|thermal paste application guide] to reapply the thermal paste before reassembly.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to push on either side of the the iSight camera cable connector and walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the fan housing to fold it out of the way.

If you're re-assembling, and following in reverse order, I found it easier to complete step 54 and THEN step 55. The iSight camera cable connector was easier to put back into the socket BEFORE sticking the cable back onto the fan housing.

Austinscherer - Reply

Image 1/3: Carefully pull the fan cable from its connector. Image 2/3: Carefully pull the fan cable from its connector. Image 3/3: Carefully pull the fan cable from its connector.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the tab on the fan's ZIF connector.

  • Carefully pull the fan cable from its connector.

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Image 1/1: One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 5.0 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Lift the end of the fan from the heat sink cavity and pull it up and out toward the hinge of the laptop to remove it.

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Image 1/3: The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly: Image 2/3: Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket. Image 3/3: The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger under each of the antenna cables near their connectors and pry up to disconnect them from the AirPort board.

  • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

  • When reconnecting the antenna cables, run them over the camera cable, not underneath.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • With the tip of a spudger, push on either side of the I/O board connector to walk it out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1: One 3.5 mm T8 Torx standoff screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the I/O board to the upper case:

    • One 3.5 mm T8 Torx standoff screw

    • One 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

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Image 1/3: Remove the I/O board. Image 2/3: When reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to slide the USB ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over. Image 3/3: When reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to slide the USB ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.
  • Lift the I/O board cable end of the I/O board and pull toward the logic board to free the ports from the upper case.

  • Remove the I/O board.

  • When reinstalling the I/O board, be sure to slide the USB ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the keyboard backlight cable and move it out of the way.

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Image 1/3: Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector. Image 2/3: Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector. Image 3/3: Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector.
  • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the microphone cable ZIF connector.

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Image 1/1:
  • Pull the microphone cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/3: Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. Image 2/3: Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector. Image 3/3: Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.
  • If necessary, peel back any tape covering the keyboard cable connector.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the retaining tab on the ZIF connector.

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Image 1/1:
  • Pull the keyboard cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1: When reassembling, install all five screws loosely, position the logic board, and then tighten evenly.
  • Remove the five 3.5 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

  • When reassembling, install all five screws loosely, position the logic board, and then tighten evenly.

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Image 1/3: When reinstalling, make sure the keyboard, keyboard backlight, and microphone cables don't get trapped beneath the logic board. Image 2/3: Also be sure to slide the ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over. Image 3/3: Also be sure to slide the ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.
  • Lift the processor end of the logic board up slightly and pull it toward the fan recess to free the ports from the edge of the upper case and remove the logic board.

  • When reinstalling, make sure the keyboard, keyboard backlight, and microphone cables don't get trapped beneath the logic board.

  • Also be sure to slide the ports' metal EMI fingers under the side of the case, not over.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift the rubber hinge covers up off the right and left display hinges.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws (one on each side) securing the aluminum hinge brackets to the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the four inner 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

I had to use a T9 driver to remove these. Almost stripped the screws using the T8 but T9 with some pressure worked great.

Dave Burke - Reply

Image 1/2: While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket. Image 2/2: Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.
  • Open the MacBook Pro a little wider than 90 degrees, and place it on end, as shown.

  • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

  • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

  • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

When re-attaching, the bracket holding the antenna cables to the bottom hinge should go on before the bottom T8 screw (so, hinge, then antenna cable bracket, then T8 screw). Additionally, I recommend you don't tighten that bottom T8 screw too much at this step. Instead, wait for step 73 to tighten - so the second T8 screw (that also goes into the antenna cable bracket) can be aligned first.

Austinscherer - Reply

Image 1/3: Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly. Image 2/3: Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down. Image 3/3: Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.
  • Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand.

  • Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly.

  • Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.

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Image 1/1:
  • Place the MacBook on a heated iOpener for about a minute to soften the adhesive securing the dual microphone cable.

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Image 1/3: Remove the rubber microphone cable cover. Image 2/3: Remove the rubber microphone cable cover. Image 3/3: Remove the rubber microphone cable cover.
  • Insert the tip of a spudger under the rubber microphone cable cover to free it form the upper case.

  • Remove the rubber microphone cable cover.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Insert the tip of a spudger under the connector end of the microphone ribbon cable and lift to peel that section up from the upper case.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Insert the tip of a spudger under the right-hand portion of the microphone ribbon cable and slide it toward the screw post to free it from the upper case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the microphone cable from the upper case.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Lionheart

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2 Comments

hey there! steps seem very useful, really hope that this will work. but what am i going to do after the replacement? now i “only“ know how to get to the upper case. is there any instruction for putting the mac book back together after replacing the upper case? would be thankful for that advice!

zelal kapcik - Reply

I have just done this repair now and it all went great with the help of this article. I purchased a second hand top case which had a battery, trackpad, keyboard, speakers and microphones still in tact and in good condition. This allows you to skip nearly 50% of the steps in this tutorial. Highly recommended to try and find something similar yourself. Slow and steady is definitely the way to do this repair and if you do that and use the right tools you will find the repair to be easy and painless. Best of luck to all.

Adam Davies - Reply

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