Tools
Parts
Introduction
Use this guide to replace the battery.
The battery is made up of six distinct cells adhered to the upper case. Use great care in prying the cells up from the case—bending or puncturing them can damage their performance, and may release hazardous chemicals. Only use plastic tools when prying.
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Two 2.3 mm Pentalobe screws
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Eight 3.0 mm Pentalobe screws
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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
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Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case to remove it.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?
I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?
Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.
Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.
Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.
If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-
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Remove the two 2.1 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board end of the I/O board cable bracket.
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Grasp the I/O board cable bracket with a pair of tweezers and remove it from the MacBook.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pop the I/O board connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.
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Lift the logic board end of the I/O board cable straight up to bend it out of the way.
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Carefully tuck the tip of a spudger under the right speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.
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Carefully peel the right speaker cable off the upper case.
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Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
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One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw
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Lift the right speaker from the cable end and pull it free from the case.
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Insert the tip of a spudger under the left speaker cable near the connector and lift it up out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
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One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw
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One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw
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Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out the battery to remove it from the upper case.
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Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.
By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.
hello -
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
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Remove the five 3.7 mm T5 Torx screws securing the battery to the upper case.
In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.
Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!
What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?
I wish to ask the same question.
vbivanov -
I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.
On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.
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Use the hot iOpener to cover half of the two right-most battery cells.
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After about a minute, reheat the iOpener and move it to cover the other half of the right-most battery cells.
I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.
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Push a plastic card between the right-most battery cell and the upper case, cutting the adhesive between the two.
In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.
Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)
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Use the plastic card to pry the right-most battery cell up from the rear case.
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Repeat this procedure with the next battery cell in.
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Push the card about an inch between the battery cell and the upper case, and slowly pry the cell up to separate all of the adhesive.
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Position the plastic card to keep the two right-most battery cells from re-adhering to the upper case.
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Reheat the iOpener and reapply it, this time to the left-most battery cells.
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Insert a second plastic opening tool between the far left battery cell and the upper case, cutting adhesive about an inch deep.
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Gently pry the left-most battery cell up from the upper case.
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Insert the plastic card between the second left-most battery cell and the upper case to cut the adhesive joining the two, and pry the cell up from the case.
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Leave the second card in the corner between the two left cells.
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Insert the card about an inch between the left-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and the case.
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Pull the card back out and insert it about an inch between the right-center battery cell and the upper case, separating the adhesive between the cell and case.
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Pry up on the two center cells to separate the last of the adhesive and remove the battery from the device.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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4 Comments
What is the part number for the mid 2014 13 inch MacBook Pro battery? I see a lot of batteries for sale for the mid 2013 online. Are they compatible?
MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Late 2013/Mid 2014) Battery here is a battery replacement.
Macbook Pro A1502 not charging after disassembly/assembly (I just wanted to clean the touchpad). MagSafe is orange but the Macbook is not charging - running only when plugged in. MacOS says the battery needs to be replaced - even if it has 82% charged.. I alson tried reset of SMC and PRAM with no effect..
Any advice? Thanks
Same problem here. Did you find a solution?
Tim Bo -
For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?
Carlos - Reply
Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.
hello -
Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.
Alex Birkett - Reply
the macbook in the picture is 2012. does it has the same structure as 2013？
Edison - Reply
I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!
marketing - Reply