Introduction

Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit battery replacement kit. The adhesive remover in your kit will dissolve the adhesive securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease. The battery is made up of six distinct cells, four of which are adhered to the upper case.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

For your safety, drain your MacBook Pro's battery before you begin this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics, such as the MacBook Pro's plastic speaker enclosures. Take care when applying the solvent.

Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

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Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
  • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

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Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
  • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

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Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:
  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

Top screw in this image was not a T6. I found that a T5 bit fit this one.

Alex Grayson - Reply

Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board. Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.
  • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

Andrew - Reply

Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.
  • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?

Gerardo Jimenez - Reply

Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board. It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.
  • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

  • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

  • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

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Grasp the Interposer with tweezers. An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.
  • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

  • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.

Behram Beldagli - Reply

when reinstalling the interposer - pay close attention to proper orientation. You can install it upside down and still make it fit - don't ask me how I know!

davemullins - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board. When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

  • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector. Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

  • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

This step is NOT really necessary. The trackpad can be removed with this cable still in place.

Robert - Reply

Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.
  • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

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Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board. Move the SSD cable connector out of the way. Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.

Because it is attached to the battery with a tiny bit of tape near where the spudger is in the picture, this cable should probably be loosened. But it is NOT necessary to remove the speaker entirely.

Robert - Reply

Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector. Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

When reassembling be careful that the right speaker wire is flush against the battery. At first, it was slightly touching the airport/bluetooth board causing wifi and bluetooth to not work after restarting.

Stu - Reply

NOT truly necessary to remove either speaker.

Robert - Reply

Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

There are two 6.8mm screws, both fit to the side of the Macbook.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Reply

On my "Early 2013" A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is covered by foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge that needs to be removed before the screw can be accessed.

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered by metal sponge

Matt Sephton - Reply

For me the corner screw was covered

Matt Sephton - Reply

Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case. If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.
  • Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case.

  • If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.

NOT necessary to remove this speaker.

Robert - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board. Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board.

  • Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.

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Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector. Gently pry the left speaker cable connector  up off from its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
  • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw (top right)

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

The 6.3mm screw appears to be on the lower central part of the Macbook that I'm working on.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Reply

On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the screw in the corner is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed before the screw.

Matt Sephton - Reply

Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case. Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.
  • Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.

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Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device. While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity. While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.
  • Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.

  • While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.

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Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.
  • Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.

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Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total). Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).
  • Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).

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The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.
  • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

  • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

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Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
  • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

  • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

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Open your container of adhesive remover. Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover.
  • Open your container of adhesive remover.

  • Fill the syringe included in your kit with a small amount (approximately 1-2 milliliters) of adhesive remover.

    • It's best to fill the syringe with no more than about 1-2 milliliters of adhesive remover at a time, so as to avoid accidentally applying too much.

    • Refill your syringe as needed throughout the rest of this procedure.

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Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.
  • Apply a small amount of adhesive remover (approximately 1 ml) evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

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Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell. Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive. Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.
  • Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.

This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.

Ahmed Almulhim - Reply

I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.

Matt Sephton - Reply

we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)

Allen Lin - Reply

Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.

Jeff Suovanen - Reply

This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.

lukecparr -

Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell. Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell. Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.
  • Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.

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Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive: Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell. Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.
  • Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:

    • Apply a small amount (about 1 ml) of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.

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Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell. Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells. Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell.

  • Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells.

  • Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.

This was the most difficult step on my Early 2013 A1325 EMC2672 as it required a tremendous amount of force to lever up the larger batteries. I broke the end of two spudgers. I suggest repeating the previous step and then coming back to this step.

Matt Sephton - Reply

Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case. Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture. Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.
  • Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case.

  • Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.

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Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro. Remember to add about 1 ml of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell. Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.
  • Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro.

    • Remember to add about 1 ml of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell.

    • Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.

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Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery. Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case. With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.
  • Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.

  • Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

  • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

  • Calibrate your new battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.

  • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!

Fred Ziegler - Reply

If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?

jaredcastello - Reply

Wie setze ich die Zyklen wieder auf 0 wenn ich einen neuen Akku verbaut habe?

Albert Zweistein - Reply

@Albert: you don’t need to reset the cycles as it is done automatically.

Serge Struß - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

98 other people completed this guide.

32 Comments

Hi where can u buy the battery for these

Kevin Higgins - Reply

Did you find out where to buy?

Uli -

There is a much easier way to get the batteries out. If you look at the 2 cells on either side (left and right), you will notice that they put them in an area that is slightly lowered. This is by design. To remove the batteries, pour a small amount of 90% isopropyl alcohol on both sides and let it sit for about 30 to 45 mins. It will dissolve the glue and you can gently then lift out the batteries without any prying. After you remove the batteries, simply wipe up any remaining alcohol, let it dry, buff it clean, and insert the new battery. Considerably easier and safer than potentially damaging the battery packs. If you are putting the same battery pack back, just use double sided tape. IMPORTANT NOTE: ALWAYS BE SAFE USING ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL AROUND FLAMES OR ANYTHING THAT MIGHT MAKE IT BURN. ALSO, NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRY THE BATTERIES IN ANY WAY IF ANY ALCOHOL IS STILL POTENTIALLY PRESENT!! WAIT UNTIL IT IS EVAPORATED!!

jimhoffa69 - Reply

Thank You for the hint with the alcohol, but where can I buy a spare battery?

Uli -

looks like they run for $100 on ebay

bluto20 - Reply

They are on amazon for around $60-$70.

Noah -

Prying the battery out is HARD! and VERY dangerous. I tried using a flat head screwdriver, put it under the battery and twisting the thing out. DO NOT DO THAT!! as it can punch a hole in the battery if you twist it too hard. I had a small smoke coming off by doing that and was lucky enough it didn't burn. Using isopropyl would be an ideal solution. But to bad I can't find that around here :(.

[DO THIS ON YOUR OWN RISK] What I ended up doing is using the screwdriver to gouge the underlying glue out as much as I can on the side (about 10%) and use fingers to pry it up. Good luck!

Hlung - Reply

Perfect! not as difficult as it looked first, especially with the proper tools. To take the batteries out the alcohol (I used ethanol used for cleaning purposes) works like charm. I put a few ml in nearby the batteries, waited maybe 20min and was able to pry them out easily. Tried before without the alocohol and nothing moved. I ordered the battery on ebay for 70€ and it has the same numbers and text as the original it says apple japan as well. My old battery had more than a thousand cycles after 3 years and did not last vey long. Now the software shows 0 cycles and it is charging starting at 15% and will be fully charged in 2:45h. I think apple charges 249€ for the job here in Gernany. It took me about 1 hour to replace it (with waiting).

Olaf Querhammer - Reply

How much ethanol was necessary to remove the battery? Did you use a spudger or similar to pry it out? I just put about 3 ml of Isopropanol nearby the battery and waited for about 30 minutes. Unfortunately I couldn't remove it though. It still was firmly glued.

Tim Bo -

Thanks for the excellent instructions. They were easy to follow and the new battery is working. I purchased my battery on Amazon from Brtong for $49.99. I just installed it so I don't know how long it will last but it was new and the cheapest price. It came with two tools to remove all the screws.

derrymatheson - Reply

This is a great resource. Thanks to all that contributed to this. I was able to replace my battery today and all went well. I had a very hard time removing the old battery. The spudger broke on me and I was afraid to use alcohol so I used a screw driver and sure enough, sparks flew removing the old battery. But got it done.

Thanks again to all and ifixit.com

aljimenez - Reply

Thanks for the guide! Perfectly presented. Took me about an hour following the steps.

Todor Lirkov - Reply

t's very important to keep organized during this replacement for ease of reassembly as there may be different size/length screws in the same step.

Someone else had mentioned using isopropyl alcohol to remove the adhesive from the batteries which is truly a great idea.

In my specific case, isopropyl alcohol was not something I had on hand. As a substitute, I used my wife's nail polish remover since Acetone evaporates fairly well (yay high school science class FTW) and sure enough, they came loose no problem. This method is NOT guaranteed, but to the careful DIYer can work great in a pinch.

Daniel Conley - Reply

Followed this point to point description and it worked like a charm (Isopropyl alcohol also helped)! (Isopropyl alcohol is sold under different brand names.)

Screws described in points 15 and 19 are not exactly as my MacBook. You describe 2 long and 1 short. I have 1 short black screw and 2 long screws (1 black and 1 silver) - the silver one in the corner and is hidden and covered by "metal wool" (peel it of).

Einar - Reply

Sadly this was a disaster for me.

All went well at first. I was able to follow all the instructions, and I used some alcohol, since the batteries were very hard to remove. Make sure the force you apply is aimed downward, to scrape through into the adhesive. And don't use much. When the battery is ready to come up free, it will. Don't rush it and pry upward until it's really starting to lift, meaning the glue is giving way.

The rest of the instructions are easy, so I thought. I actually managed to break the left speaker connector from the board. I wasn't too worried, as I don't use the computer speakers much anyway. On reassembly, I tried to glue the connector back. Doubt that worked.

I was able to reassemble the whole machine. When I powered it on (with cable), the battery was recognized (system report) but WOULD NOT charge. The system then started to degrade. Mouse and keyboard started malfunctioning. It's dead. Will return the battery, and go shopping.

Gene - Reply

Just performed this today suing the same brtong battery from Amazon that someone else mentioned. $50 on Amazon. The instructions were perfect. All worked like a charm. I was scared off at first due to the stated difficulty. It is possible the glue on mine wasnt very good maybe. But seriously, anyone considering doing this, do it. It is not hard. And well worth it.

Aaron West - Reply

Worked like a charm. Except my batteries were harder to pry off than the guide would lead me to believe. Other than that, perfect, and now I've got a brand new battery. Tip: the batteries for late 2012 AND early 2013 13" MacBook Pros are the same, so you can get a battery that's listed as either.

danqaurooni - Reply

Really useful and unbelievably specific instruction. All crystal clear on every step.

The battery removal part was really tricky, and I ended up making a wedger of my own - about 4 cm wide plywood piece that I cut at an angle (so there would be a wedge) and sanded smooth (to not damage the batteries). I found that the wide tool provided much more lifting force, while distributing the pressure equally along the whole length of battery sides.

It's definitely not as hard as it first seems. Go for it!

uldiszeidurs - Reply

Just finished replacing my battery. 30 minutes start to finish. There's nothing difficult or too risky if you keep organized and follow these excellent step-by-step instructions. Couple of tips: absolutely agree with using isopropyl alcohol to loosen old adhesive, also – I printed out the instructions and just taped the screws/parts to the appropriate step/picture with a bit of masking tape and stacked them on top of each other as I went (in order), this way going back was a breeze! Go for it!

Steven Lubensky - Reply

Fantastic instructions!I had no issues completing the battery change in a little over an hour, at a leisurely pace. Took my time to make sure I did every step just right. Acetone worked for me (Thanks for the tip Daniel). Slightly different screws from those in the instructions, as with Einar. Had the instructions on my desktop while doing the battery change on the laptop. Now the new battery is in full charge, and the MacBook works as before. The battery is not an OEM part, so we'll see how long it will last... Thank you Walter + all who chipped in!

Jouni - Reply

Thank you- is there any place where I can buy the correct tools to remove the battery?

dalia rochwarger - Reply

I bought all tools on Aliexpress, it costs there just few dollars.

micer -

Really helpful guide, I just installed a new battery and seems like it works great! It took me about 2 hours, the tricky part was to remove the old battery as others said. I used some liquid for glue removal, I think it should be available in every shop with paints and lacquers etc. I took a piece of fabric, put it into the liquid and pushed it under the battery until I could easily remove it. Finally not so difficult, but I can't imagine removing the battery without the liquid to melt the glue. Btw I bought a battery on Aliexpress for $45, hope it'll live for a while.

micer - Reply

I wasn't difficult, I recommend you to use an old credit card to remove the batteries, this will help you a lot!!

wg.varela - Reply

I just installed a new Egoway Macbook Pro 13 inch Retina Display battery (the instructions were great!). Powered it up and got nothing. Plugged it in and it worked but my battery icon has a 'X' through it and it says 'No Battery Available'.

Can someone please help????

Thank you!

ha.robert - Reply

Try resetting the SMC. (This is in the guide, but it's the very last step so folks sometimes overlook it. It pays to read to the end!)

Jeff Suovanen -

Hello

I performed the battery change without problems. But the battery connector board becomes super hot immediately after making contact with the mother board. And the machine has the same problems as before.

Is this a short on the mother board/SMC? Or could I have gotten a faulty battery replacement?

Thanks

Sune Frederiksen - Reply

Hi Jeff. I tried that. Still didn't work.

ha.robert - Reply

I suppose it's possible you got a defective battery. I would try reconnecting the old battery and see whether that solves the problem. You may not have to re-do the entire procedure—instead, see if you can disconnect the new battery you already installed, lay the old battery directly on top of it, plug it in, and tape it down temporarily so you can flip the laptop over and boot it up. If this resolves this issue, you probably have a bad battery. And if it doesn't, drop your question into a post in our Answers forum for more detailed troubleshooting. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Great Guide - Thanks!

My repair went off without a hitch. I used iFixit's part-only new replacement battery (which showed full capacity after installation) and my wife's nail polish remover as a solvent to loosen the adhesive. I poured a few ml's into each slight depression (i.e. under each battery pair), left that for around 20 mins to evaporate, then poured a tiny bit in again and gently pried each battery out with a spudger.

PS - I see the guide lists a T7 Torx as one of the needed tools, but I can't see where that would be needed in this repair. T5, T6 and P5 were all I needed.

Andrew - Reply

The instructions were phenomenal!!! Congratulations to the author. I installed a SIKER11.21V 74WH that I bought from Amazon for $62.99. The only challenge I had is that the adhesive strips that came with the new battery were completely useless as I wasn’t able to remove the plastic layers that were covering them. I ended up removing the adhesives and used double-adhesive tape instead. The thickness was about right and there is little space for the battery cells to move once installed. The battery seems to be functioning well and is charging. Good luck to those adventurers willing to try.

Sergio Shkurovich - Reply

Took about one hour. Pictures and directions and others comments were OUTSTANDING!

Turned on and speakers worked without a problem. Now letting the new battery drain.

Thanks for the great instructions and including everything I needed in the kit.

Harvey Glick - Reply

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