Introduction

The battery is made up of six distinct cells, four of which are adhered to the upper case. Use great care in prying these four cells up from the case—bending or puncturing them can damage their performance, and may release hazardous chemicals. Only use plastic tools when prying.

Image 1/1: Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
  • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

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Image 1/1: Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.
  • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

  • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

  • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

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Image 1/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. Image 2/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. Image 3/3: During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.
  • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

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Image 1/1: Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

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Image 1/2: It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way. Image 2/2: Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.
  • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

  • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

  • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

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Image 1/2: An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board. Image 2/2: Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.
  • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

  • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.

Behram Beldagli - Reply

Image 1/2: When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board. Image 2/2: When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

  • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

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Image 1/2: Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

  • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

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Image 1/3: Move the SSD cable connector out of the way. Image 2/3: Move the SSD cable connector out of the way. Image 3/3: Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.

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Image 1/2: Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Be sure you are prying up on the connector, '''not''' the socket itself.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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Image 1/1: One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with some metallic sponge that should be removed with tweezers or the corner of your spudger.

There are two 6.8mm screws, both fit to the side of the Macbook.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Reply

Image 1/2: If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case. Image 2/2: If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.
  • Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case.

  • If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.

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Image 1/3: Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board. Image 2/3: Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way. Image 3/3: Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board.

  • Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.

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Image 1/2: Gently pry the left speaker cable connector  up off from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Be sure you are prying up on the connector, '''not''' the socket itself.
  • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

  • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

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Image 1/1: One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw (top right)
  • Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw (top right)

    • Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws

  • The corner screw may be covered with some metallic sponge that should be removed with tweezers or the corner of your spudger.

The 6.3mm screw appears to be on the lower central part of the Macbook that I'm working on.

Bhoom Suktitipat - Reply

On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the screw in the corner is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed before the screw.

Matt Sephton - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • LIft and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.

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Image 1/3: While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity. Image 2/3: While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity. Image 3/3: While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.
  • Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.

  • While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).

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Image 1/1:
  • Insert the flat edge of a spudger underneath the leftmost battery cell.

This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.

Ahmed Almulhim - Reply

I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.

Matt Sephton - Reply

Image 1/3: Run the spudger along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell to release the adhesive. Image 2/3: Wedge the spudger underneath the battery cell once again, but this time slightly lift the battery cell. Image 3/3: Wedge the spudger underneath the battery cell once again, but this time slightly lift the battery cell.
  • Wedge the spudger underneath the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run the spudger along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell to release the adhesive.

  • Wedge the spudger underneath the battery cell once again, but this time slightly lift the battery cell.

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Image 1/3: Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell. Image 2/3: Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive. Image 3/3: Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.
  • Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to release the top portion of the leftmost battery cell.

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Image 1/3: Run the spudger down along the leftmost battery cell. Image 2/3: Run the spudger down along the leftmost battery cell. Image 3/3: Run the spudger down along the leftmost battery cell.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the top portion of the leftmost battery cell.

  • Run the spudger down along the leftmost battery cell.

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Image 1/3: Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells. Image 2/3: Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case. Image 3/3: Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell.

  • Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells.

  • Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.

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Image 1/3: Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as highlighted in the third picture. Image 2/3: Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as highlighted in the third picture. Image 3/3: Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as highlighted in the third picture.
  • Grasp the battery cells and gently move, but do not remove, them from their recess in the upper case.

  • Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as highlighted in the third picture.

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Image 1/1:
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the rightmost battery cell.

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Image 1/3: Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the bottom portion of the rightmost battery cell. Image 2/3: Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the bottom portion of the rightmost battery cell. Image 3/3: Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the bottom portion of the rightmost battery cell.
  • Run the spudger to the left along the bottom portion of the rightmost battery cell.

  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the bottom portion of the rightmost battery cell.

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Image 1/2: Run the spudger up along the right side of the rightmost battery cell to release the adhesive. Image 2/2: Run the spudger up along the right side of the rightmost battery cell to release the adhesive.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger near the bottom right corner of the rightmost battery cell.

  • Run the spudger up along the right side of the rightmost battery cell to release the adhesive.

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Image 1/2: Pry the spudger downwards to release the adhesive near the top portion of the rightmost battery cell. Image 2/2: Pry the spudger downwards to release the adhesive near the top portion of the rightmost battery cell.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the right side of the rightmost battery cell and the upper case.

  • Pry the spudger downwards to release the adhesive near the top portion of the rightmost battery cell.

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Image 1/2: Run the spudger down along the right side of the larger right battery cell. Image 2/2: Run the spudger down along the right side of the larger right battery cell.
  • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger right battery cell.

  • Run the spudger down along the right side of the larger right battery cell.

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Image 1/1: Slightly pry the bottom right corner up off the upper case to release the adhesive.
  • Insert the spudger near the bottom right corner of the larger right battery cell.

  • Slightly pry the bottom right corner up off the upper case to release the adhesive.

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Image 1/3: Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells. Image 2/3: Pry the larger right battery cell up off the upper case. Image 3/3: Pry the larger right battery cell up off the upper case.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger rightmost battery cell.

  • Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells.

  • Pry the larger right battery cell up off the upper case.

This was the most difficult step on my Early 2013 A1325 EMC2672 as it required a tremendous amount of force to lever up the larger batteries. I broke the end of two spudgers. I suggest repeating the previous step and then coming back to this step.

Matt Sephton - Reply

Image 1/2: Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case. Image 2/2: Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case.
  • Carefully grasp the battery assembly from the right and left battery cells.

  • Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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20 Comments

Hi where can u buy the battery for these

Kevin Higgins - Reply

Did you find out where to buy?

Uli -

There is a much easier way to get the batteries out. If you look at the 2 cells on either side (left and right), you will notice that they put them in an area that is slightly lowered. This is by design. To remove the batteries, pour a small amount of 90% isopropyl alcohol on both sides and let it sit for about 30 to 45 mins. It will dissolve the glue and you can gently then lift out the batteries without any prying. After you remove the batteries, simply wipe up any remaining alcohol, let it dry, buff it clean, and insert the new battery. Considerably easier and safer than potentially damaging the battery packs. If you are putting the same battery pack back, just use double sided tape. IMPORTANT NOTE: ALWAYS BE SAFE USING ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL AROUND FLAMES OR ANYTHING THAT MIGHT MAKE IT BURN. ALSO, NEVER ATTEMPT TO PRY THE BATTERIES IN ANY WAY IF ANY ALCOHOL IS STILL POTENTIALLY PRESENT!! WAIT UNTIL IT IS EVAPORATED!!

jimhoffa69 - Reply

Thank You for the hint with the alcohol, but where can I buy a spare battery?

Uli -

looks like they run for $100 on ebay

bluto20 - Reply

They are on amazon for around $60-$70.

Noah -

Prying the battery out is HARD! and VERY dangerous. I tried using a flat head screwdriver, put it under the battery and twisting the thing out. DO NOT DO THAT!! as it can punch a hole in the battery if you twist it too hard. I had a small smoke coming off by doing that and was lucky enough it didn't burn. Using isopropyl would be an ideal solution. But to bad I can't find that around here :(.

[DO THIS ON YOUR OWN RISK] What I ended up doing is using the screwdriver to gouge the underlying glue out as much as I can on the side (about 10%) and use fingers to pry it up. Good luck!

Hlung - Reply

Perfect! not as difficult as it looked first, especially with the proper tools. To take the batteries out the alcohol (I used ethanol used for cleaning purposes) works like charm. I put a few ml in nearby the batteries, waited maybe 20min and was able to pry them out easily. Tried before without the alocohol and nothing moved. I ordered the battery on ebay for 70€ and it has the same numbers and text as the original it says apple japan as well. My old battery had more than a thousand cycles after 3 years and did not last vey long. Now the software shows 0 cycles and it is charging starting at 15% and will be fully charged in 2:45h. I think apple charges 249€ for the job here in Gernany. It took me about 1 hour to replace it (with waiting).

Olaf Querhammer - Reply

How much ethanol was necessary to remove the battery? Did you use a spudger or similar to pry it out? I just put about 3 ml of Isopropanol nearby the battery and waited for about 30 minutes. Unfortunately I couldn't remove it though. It still was firmly glued.

Tim Bo -

Thanks for the excellent instructions. They were easy to follow and the new battery is working. I purchased my battery on Amazon from Brtong for $49.99. I just installed it so I don't know how long it will last but it was new and the cheapest price. It came with two tools to remove all the screws.

derrymatheson - Reply

This is a great resource. Thanks to all that contributed to this. I was able to replace my battery today and all went well. I had a very hard time removing the old battery. The spudger broke on me and I was afraid to use alcohol so I used a screw driver and sure enough, sparks flew removing the old battery. But got it done.

Thanks again to all and ifixit.com

aljimenez - Reply

Thanks for the guide! Perfectly presented. Took me about an hour following the steps.

Todor Lirkov - Reply

t's very important to keep organized during this replacement for ease of reassembly as there may be different size/length screws in the same step.

Someone else had mentioned using isopropyl alcohol to remove the adhesive from the batteries which is truly a great idea.

In my specific case, isopropyl alcohol was not something I had on hand. As a substitute, I used my wife's nail polish remover since Acetone evaporates fairly well (yay high school science class FTW) and sure enough, they came loose no problem. This method is NOT guaranteed, but to the careful DIYer can work great in a pinch.

Daniel Conley - Reply

Followed this point to point description and it worked like a charm (Isopropyl alcohol also helped)! (Isopropyl alcohol is sold under different brand names.)

Screws described in points 15 and 19 are not exactly as my MacBook. You describe 2 long and 1 short. I have 1 short black screw and 2 long screws (1 black and 1 silver) - the silver one in the corner and is hidden and covered by "metal wool" (peel it of).

Einar - Reply

Sadly this was a disaster for me.

All went well at first. I was able to follow all the instructions, and I used some alcohol, since the batteries were very hard to remove. Make sure the force you apply is aimed downward, to scrape through into the adhesive. And don't use much. When the battery is ready to come up free, it will. Don't rush it and pry upward until it's really starting to lift, meaning the glue is giving way.

The rest of the instructions are easy, so I thought. I actually managed to break the left speaker connector from the board. I wasn't too worried, as I don't use the computer speakers much anyway. On reassembly, I tried to glue the connector back. Doubt that worked.

I was able to reassemble the whole machine. When I powered it on (with cable), the battery was recognized (system report) but WOULD NOT charge. The system then started to degrade. Mouse and keyboard started malfunctioning. It's dead. Will return the battery, and go shopping.

Gene - Reply

Just performed this today suing the same brtong battery from Amazon that someone else mentioned. $50 on Amazon. The instructions were perfect. All worked like a charm. I was scared off at first due to the stated difficulty. It is possible the glue on mine wasnt very good maybe. But seriously, anyone considering doing this, do it. It is not hard. And well worth it.

Aaron West - Reply

Worked like a charm. Except my batteries were harder to pry off than the guide would lead me to believe. Other than that, perfect, and now I've got a brand new battery. Tip: the batteries for late 2012 AND early 2013 13" MacBook Pros are the same, so you can get a battery that's listed as either.

danqaurooni - Reply

Really useful and unbelievably specific instruction. All crystal clear on every step.

The battery removal part was really tricky, and I ended up making a wedger of my own - about 4 cm wide plywood piece that I cut at an angle (so there would be a wedge) and sanded smooth (to not damage the batteries). I found that the wide tool provided much more lifting force, while distributing the pressure equally along the whole length of battery sides.

It's definitely not as hard as it first seems. Go for it!

uldiszeidurs - Reply

Just finished replacing my battery. 30 minutes start to finish. There's nothing difficult or too risky if you keep organized and follow these excellent step-by-step instructions. Couple of tips: absolutely agree with using isopropyl alcohol to loosen old adhesive, also – I printed out the instructions and just taped the screws/parts to the appropriate step/picture with a bit of masking tape and stacked them on top of each other as I went (in order), this way going back was a breeze! Go for it!

Steven Lubensky - Reply

Fantastic instructions!I had no issues completing the battery change in a little over an hour, at a leisurely pace. Took my time to make sure I did every step just right. Acetone worked for me (Thanks for the tip Daniel). Slightly different screws from those in the instructions, as with Einar. Had the instructions on my desktop while doing the battery change on the laptop. Now the new battery is in full charge, and the MacBook works as before. The battery is not an OEM part, so we'll see how long it will last... Thank you Walter + all who chipped in!

Jouni - Reply

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