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Introduction

Use this guide to replace a cracked or faulty display assembly in your MacBook Air.

    • Shut down and close your computer. Lay it on a soft surface top-side down.

    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    • The special screwdriver needed to remove the 5-point Pentalobe screws can be found here.

    When you say:

    Remove the following ten screws:

    Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

    Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

    Nerdily yours,

    Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

    larryleveen - Reply

    The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

    Michael Welham -

    I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

    Allen - Reply

    The magnetic mat is

    GERARD SZAREK -

    Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.

    Frank O'Carroll - Reply

    A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.

    Michael Mee - Reply

    Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!

    Lilljedahl -

    I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.

    It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.

    I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?

    AMG - Reply

    The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)

    Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.

    Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

    Hope this helps! -Dan

    danielwen -

    I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?

    Robert Hermans - Reply

    Hi Robert!

    Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!

    Arthur Shi -

    Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy

    vensilver - Reply

    Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.

    Arthur Shi -

  1. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

  2. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, Battery Connector: step 3, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, Battery Connector: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • In this step you will disconnect the battery to help avoid shorting out any components during service.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both short sides of the battery connector upward to disconnect it from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from the logic board so the connector will not accidentally bend back and make contact with its socket.

    When reassembling the connector wire needs to be bent to fit.

    GERARD SZAREK - Reply

  3. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, I/O Board Cable: step 4, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, I/O Board Cable: step 4, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left and right I/O board cable connectors up off their respective sockets on the I/O board.

  4. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 1
    • Lift and remove the I/O board cable.

  5. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, Fan: step 6, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, Fan: step 6, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully push on each side of the iSight camera cable connector to loosen it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • We recommend you gently "walk" the connector out of its socket.

  6. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 2
    • Peel the iSight camera cable up off the adhesive securing it to the fan.

    Additionally it seems as though the display assembly I have is from an earlier model with a different built in camera. I don’t care if the camera works, could I chop the cord, power it up, and just no have a working camera?

    Aidan - Reply

  7. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    Be sure you understand how the connector works, if you have to go and look up “apple ZIF connector” and watch a video. The one above flips up from where the tool is pointing at. Again do not damage the connector. Click the second picture to see this!

    joe - Reply

  8. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • Two 5.5 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 4.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • In some models this is a 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw.

  9. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 10, image 3 of 3
    • Lift, but do not remove the fan out of its recess in the upper case.

    • Carefully pull the fan ribbon cable out of its socket as you remove the fan from the Air.

  10. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: step 11, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: step 11, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry both antenna connectors up from their sockets on the AirPort/Bluetooth card, and move them out of the way.

    Be very careful. When I did this - just as in the photo - I prised the top of the antenna connector off from the bottom of it, leaving me with only one functioning antenna.

    Andrew Wainwright - Reply

    You can usually pull the airport card out of the socket and let it dangle by the attached wires. They can be frustrating to re-attach.

    maccentric - Reply

    This seems like great advice! Any more details would be greatly appreciated

    Colleen V -

    Just walk it out slowly. The cables don’t have a lot of slack, so if you pull too hard on the card it may yank the cables out of their sockets, or worse, when it comes free.

    maccentric -

    When I did this, one antenna connection broke off and the other will not reattach for love nor money. I have not idea how to fix it. I’d try a blob of solder if my fingers were the size of matchsticks! Haha

    Andrew Aldis - Reply

  11. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following five screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • Two 5.2 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • Two 2.6 mm T5 Torx screws

  12. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 1
    • When handling the battery, avoid squeezing or touching the six exposed lithium polymer cells.

    • Lift the battery from its edge nearest the logic board and remove it from the upper case.

  13. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 2
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling the power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the front edge of the Air.

    Did it wrong to begin with by taking the complete socket away and not just the insert. Now I can’t get the socket back on the logic board contacts. Any ideas?

    John Lillywhite - Reply

    I have the same issue! Did you find a solution?

    Alexis Townsend -

  14. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to de-route the antenna cables from their notches in the logic board.

    I ordered a used display and the antennae wires are way too short to make it in to their respective ports (either of them). Am I missing something? Anything I should know to do a splice?

    -Aidan

    Aidan - Reply

    I did not disconnect the tiny gold terminals, they are too fragile. I just slide out the card but leave it connected to the antenna, if replacing the logic board is the aim.

    Jurgen - Reply

    They're not clicking back in when I reassemble it

    Carson Banker - Reply

  15. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 16, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 16, image 3 of 3
    • Gently push the tip of a spudger under the black plastic flap stuck to the display data cable lock to make the lock pop upward and away from the socket.

    • While holding the lock away from the socket, gently pull the display data cable out of its socket.

    • Do not pull upward on the display data cable as you disconnect it, as its socket may break off the logic board.

  16. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 17, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable connector, lifting it straight up from its socket.

    • De-route the cable from its notch in the logic board.

  17. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 18, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 18, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the trackpad ribbon cable straight out of its socket toward the front edge of the Air.

  18. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 19, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 19, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

  19. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth card to the logic board.

  20. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 21, image 3 of 3
    • Slightly lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth board and pull it out of its socket on the logic board.

    • To avoid damaging its socket on the logic board, do not excessively lift the free end of the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  21. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three 3.6 mm T5 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • In some models these are 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws.

  22. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 23, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 23, image 3 of 3
    • Gently lift the logic board assembly from the heat sink end and pull it away from the port side of the case to remove it from the Air.

    • When replacing the logic board, insert the board's rubber edge under the port-side rubber gasket, then lower the board into place.

    There's a screw that's connecting the logic board to the casing that has to be removed before sliding the logic board out. I found that out the hard way.

    Andrea Carter - Reply

    Only 3 were in mine, where did you find another screw?

    maccentric -

    When replacing the logic board, make sure you haven’t trapped an antenna cable underneath. Easy to sort it out now, much more annoying if you only discover it after screwing everything down first!

    Andrew Wainwright - Reply

  23. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, I/O Board: step 24, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, I/O Board: step 24, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, I/O Board: step 24, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the small rubber gasket from the corner of the upper case nearest the the I/O board.

    • Remove the gasket from the corner nearest display cable connector.

  24. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 25, image 2 of 2
    • If necessary, use tweezers to remove any tape covering the microphone cable ZIF connector.

  25. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 26, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 26, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • With a pair of tweezers, pull the microphone ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

  26. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 27, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 27, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry under the speaker cable near the connector, lifting it straight up from its socket.

    • De-route the cable from its notch in the logic board.

    When I reassembled it these wouldn't click back in?

    Carson Banker - Reply

  27. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

  28. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 29, image 3 of 3
    • Carefully lift the I/O board by its power cable and pull it away from the edge of the case.

  29. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 30, image 1 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 30, image 2 of 3 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: step 30, image 3 of 3
    • Peel up the six cable loops securing the antenna cables to the upper case.

    • In some models there are seven cable loops.

    • Gently pull the cable loops slightly out of the channel cut into the upper case one at a time.

    • Use your spudger to open up the plastic loops as you de-route the antenna cables through them.

    • Repeat this for each retaining loop until the antenna cables are free from the upper case.

    On the reassemble phase, rethread these before you reattach the display/

    Mark Kammerer - Reply

    Agreed, with Mark, I found pushing the loop in the hole over the gasket material and then using a small tweezer to reposition them. Once you attache the display, you will probably have to push the securing tabs back to the working side of the back.

    joe - Reply

  30. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 31, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the inner 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing each display hinge to the upper case (two screws total).

  31. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 32, image 1 of 1
    • Open the display until it is perpendicular to the upper case and place it on a table as shown.

    • While holding the Air steady, remove the remaining 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

  32. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 33, image 1 of 1
    • Before removing the last display screw, be sure to hold the display and upper case steady with your other hand. Failure to do so may allow the components to fall onto the table, causing potentially expensive damage.

    • Remove the last 4.9 mm T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  33. MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 34, image 1 of 2 MacBook Air 11" Early 2014 Display Assembly Replacement: step 34, image 2 of 2
    • Push the upper case slightly toward the display assembly, then rotate it away from the front of the display assembly.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

19 other people completed this guide.

4 Comments

anyone know if this uses the same display as the mid 2013 model?

Scott - Reply

This is great, but how do I now replace the screen inside the display assembly?

Gary Ogilvie - Reply

The use of adhesive and backing materials would likely make this unattenable and cost prohibitive assuming you could even find the after-market subassembly parts. I removed my broken LCD and made a wall clock from the metal exterior. More power to you if you try. My suggestion, if you find all the parts, would be to run the edge with a utility knife - you will likely nick the antenna cables so those will need to be rerun. Then heat-gun the back aluminum case (avoid the logo) and pry out the LCD with a narrow (and SHARPENED) 2.5” or less putty knife being carful of the plastic backing. If the heat-gun worked the LCD may come out without shattering. Reverse the process if you have the parts. The cable routing will be a chore. Parts might include Antenna Cable, LVDS cable, LCD, propriety backing, adhesive, and something to replace the edging that ran between the LCD and aluminum frame.

Jeff -

Terrific guide, every step is explained and displayed with such clarity and precision. Thank you for this, saved my MacBook!

Trinity Coyle - Reply

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