Introduction

Use this guide to replace the display of your Huawei P9.

Before disassembling your phone, discharge the battery below 25%. The battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured, but the chances of that happening are much lower if discharged.

First switch off your phone and remove the SIM card tray. Unscrew the two Pentalobe P2 screws located at the bottom next to the device's USB C port. If the screen is cracked you might want to use some tape to protect your eyes from glass shreds and get a better grip to open the phone.
  • First switch off your phone and remove the SIM card tray.

  • Unscrew the two Pentalobe P2 screws located at the bottom next to the device's USB C port.

  • If the screen is cracked you might want to use some tape to protect your eyes from glass shreds and get a better grip to open the phone.

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Use an iSclack or a suction handle to separate the display unit from the rear panel. Don't remove the rear panel completely yet. There is a cable connected to it! It is running from the finger print sensor to the display unit.
  • Use an iSclack or a suction handle to separate the display unit from the rear panel.

    • Don't remove the rear panel completely yet. There is a cable connected to it! It is running from the finger print sensor to the display unit.

If you cant get suction because of cracks in the screen, use wide tape to create smooth surface.

Kent Alexander Johansen - Reply

If your screen is smashed, and nothing else will work (iSclack etc), you can get a thin blade between the casing and the screen assembly and the bottom. The screen assembly can then be pried out. I fought with mine before discovering this. Be careful of the broken glass.

Rob Collins - Reply

I struggled to remove screen with suction cups due to damage to the back case. I used a jim to pry from bottom by usb c port, worked well.

Philip Lloyd - Reply

Be very carrefull as it can open in one fell swoop !

Jean-Marc Boisseau - Reply

Disconnect the finger print sensor using a spudger. Disconnect the finger print sensor using a spudger. Disconnect the finger print sensor using a spudger.
  • Disconnect the finger print sensor using a spudger.

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Unplug the antenna cable. Remove the liquid contact indicator that sits on top of the screw. Remove the liquid contact indicator that sits on top of the screw.
  • Unplug the antenna cable.

  • Remove the liquid contact indicator that sits on top of the screw.

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Unscrew the two Phillips #00 screws that hold the metal plate in place. The plate, which is covering the battery connector, has two little hooks on each side. Use a tweezer to free them and unhinge the plate by carefully moving it upwards. The plate, which is covering the battery connector, has two little hooks on each side. Use a tweezer to free them and unhinge the plate by carefully moving it upwards.
  • Unscrew the two Phillips #00 screws that hold the metal plate in place.

  • The plate, which is covering the battery connector, has two little hooks on each side. Use a tweezer to free them and unhinge the plate by carefully moving it upwards.

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Now you can unplug the battery connector and bend it aside. Now you can unplug the battery connector and bend it aside.
  • Now you can unplug the battery connector and bend it aside.

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Free the ends of the adhesive pull tabs to get a good grip on them. Free the ends of the adhesive pull tabs to get a good grip on them.
  • Free the ends of the adhesive pull tabs to get a good grip on them.

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Pull the adhesive tabs in a slow constant movement  to free the battery. Should those adhesive tabs snap, you might want to use an iOpener to heat and soften them a little bit so you can pry out the battery with a spudger. There are two cables running directly underneath the battery. Take care not to damage them when prying with a spudger! You can see their position in the last picture.
  • Pull the adhesive tabs in a slow constant movement to free the battery.

    • Should those adhesive tabs snap, you might want to use an iOpener to heat and soften them a little bit so you can pry out the battery with a spudger.

    • There are two cables running directly underneath the battery. Take care not to damage them when prying with a spudger! You can see their position in the last picture.

  • Slowly lift the battery and free it from the remaining hidden piece of adhesive. Done!

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Remove the other five Phillips #00 screws from the motherboard. Disconnect the motherboard flex cable as well as the power and volume button cable. Disconnect the motherboard flex cable as well as the power and volume button cable.
  • Remove the other five Phillips #00 screws from the motherboard.

  • Disconnect the motherboard flex cable as well as the power and volume button cable.

Achtung! Ich habe vergessen, links das Kabel von den seitlichen Knöpfen zu entfernen! Ersatz kostet 100€ ca…

Michael Schwarz - Reply

Unplug the LCD screen flex cable. Now you can remove the complete motherboard easily. Conveniently both, the front and rear camera, are removed with the motherboard.
  • Unplug the LCD screen flex cable.

  • Now you can remove the complete motherboard easily.

    • Conveniently both, the front and rear camera, are removed with the motherboard.

  • Remove the earpiece speaker (mind adhesive underneath).

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Heat the top part of the glass with a heat gun or iOpener.
  • Heat the top part of the glass with a heat gun or iOpener.

    • The glue used for the display is tough and needs patience and gentle steady force.

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When the glue is softened, insert a spudger through the camera bay in the midframe and push the display away from the frame. Place a plastic card or two opening picks under the display bezel at the top, between the screen and the frame. This will prevent the glue from readhering. Place a plastic card or two opening picks under the display bezel at the top, between the screen and the frame. This will prevent the glue from readhering.
  • When the glue is softened, insert a spudger through the camera bay in the midframe and push the display away from the frame.

  • Place a plastic card or two opening picks under the display bezel at the top, between the screen and the frame. This will prevent the glue from readhering.

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Insert an opening pick approximately 1/16 of an inch and slide it along the side to sparate the display from the frame. You might feel more resistance where the LCD ends on the lower end. Stop here and take your time to reheat that part and soften the glue.
  • Insert an opening pick approximately 1/16 of an inch and slide it along the side to sparate the display from the frame.

  • You might feel more resistance where the LCD ends on the lower end.

  • Stop here and take your time to reheat that part and soften the glue.

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When the glue is soft enough carefully move the pick around the bottom  corner. You can now work your way along the bottom edge. Leave the opening pick on one side and flip the display over.
  • When the glue is soft enough carefully move the pick around the bottom corner.

  • You can now work your way along the bottom edge.

  • Leave the opening pick on one side and flip the display over.

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On the back side detach the display flex cable from the frame. Now you can lift the display away from the frame.
  • On the back side detach the display flex cable from the frame.

  • Now you can lift the display away from the frame.

  • Check for any small parts like the rubber gasket at the top behind the speaker grill.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

24 other people completed this guide.

Dominik Schnabelrauch

Member since: 11/23/2016

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11 Comments

While the guide shows pictures along the process it doesn't really give the whole picture.

Just one example: as a repair guide, you could easily expect the display to be cracked and you can no longer use a suction cup to open it up.

A bigger issue is that the guide doesn't show steps up to the replacement part listed.

An incomplete guide while still providing enough information to help someone with experience in repairs.

Seth - Reply

ifixit sent me screen and digitizer without the metal frame. is there a way to remove the metal frame and add it to the replacement screen? does ifixit sell screen and digitizer with the metal frame?

david cech - Reply

you guys are killing me... first you sell the display without the frame even though your instructions clearly show the frame and now it is exactly the same story with a middle frame screen... why it is not part of your display package since it is necessary for the replacement and once again showed in instructional video?

david cech - Reply

Hello David, I am very sorry for the confusion. The guide was not congruent with the spare part in the shop. Having a display assembly with the frame already attached would be more convenient and an easier repair. Though the display without the frame is a bit cheaper but makes the guide more complex (hence the rating "difficult").

What instructional video do you mean? Is it for another device?

Tobias Isakeit -

Please sir let me know if I replace the only screen is it not effect to battery. Because someone told me if I have replace screen it should need whole cover with battery . Please tell me is it true or not

Anurudda Weerasekara - Reply

Hello Anurudda, When replacing the display you need to take out the battery (and everything else mounted on the back of the display). But you can put it back in afterwards. You do not have to replace the battery with a new one.

Tobias Isakeit -

I’m done with the tutorial and it worked… well, partially.

If the strips of the Battery can’t be completely removed, you got heavy problems to get the battery out. I got no grip with my fingers, so I try to Lever the battery with a sprudger. I accedentily punctured it, so I needed a new one. (another 20$ for me) :(

One week later, I got the new battery and a new Display Unit (the first one was without the Frame and i struggeled to seperate the Screen andthe old Frame. So I bought the new one and done the rest of the repair.

The Problem now, is that the phone doesn’t fit in the backcase anymore and I Need to press the Phone into the case from time to time.

Another Thing is, that the touch has it’s Problems now, cause is doesn’t regonize my Thumb or the frontside of my finger, while the side of the finger is regonized by the Phone.

Don’t know, what it caused. Maybe you know an answer for that.

Mick Trompke - Reply

I too had an issue with the battery, however contact cleaner eats the adhesive and makes it much easier to remove with the spudger. In regards to your touch issues i would think its possibly a poor/faulty part and a new one may fix that issue.

Matthew Hurley -

I have replaced my screen and had a problem getting the battery out and bent it slightly it now turns off at 60% charge! also as Mick has said the phone does not clip fully back into the rear housing, it is the edge that has the lock and volume buttons. Anyone know how to make it stay in place?

Jake Breakwell - Reply

Same problem here, genuine new screen (140€!!) doesn’t clip fully in the housing !! Had a prof. technician do the work. After first new screen i had continuously shutdowns out of the blue, even while charging or sleep mode (up to 6x a day, very annoying when you depend on Waze for work!!). Screen didn’t clip back at the connector side. Complained about it, tried factory reset, apps uninstalled, still shutdowns. Tried to explain him that the screen works as a heatsink for the CPU and if it’s not properly clipped it doesn’t touch the CPU (pink heat paste) for cooling and it might thermal shutdown for overheat protection, but he didn’t believe me. I asked for another new screen, NO MORE SHUTDOWNS, but still the same problem with the housing (it’s even worse after 3 attempts). Technician says the housing is slightly bent… but no matter how hard i look, i don’t see it, even when i place the phone on a flat surface. Anyone a solution for this?

Christophe Tribolet - Reply

OK, so i found out what caused my screen not to fit in it’s case… There were already rubbers installed on the new one where the earspeaker and camera are located. Especially the prox. detector had a big one. It was the technician who forgot to remove them !! I used the iSclack, wich is great for opening smartphones… just squeeze and open it goes. The pro tech toolkit comes very complete with everything you might need.

Christophe Tribolet - Reply

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