Introduction

Use this guide to replace the motherboard on your HTC One M8.

Please note that your device may have a large amount of copper shielding and tape covering the back of the display assembly, as shown here. If this is the case, you'll need to gently remove it to get at the motherboard.

Image 1/2: Press to eject the tray. Image 2/2: This may require a significant amount of force.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray, located on the upper left hand side of the phone.

  • Press to eject the tray.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

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Image 1/1: When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.
  • Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.

  • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

My phone have a problem from sim card rejected ,

shola - Reply

Image 1/2: Press to eject the tray. Image 2/2: This may require a significant amount of force.
  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the microSD card tray, located on the upper right hand side of the phone.

  • Press to eject the tray.

  • This may require a significant amount of force.

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Image 1/1: When reinserting the microSD card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.
  • Remove the microSD card tray assembly from the HTC One M8.

  • When reinserting the microSD card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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Image 1/2: Refer to the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Instructions/11677|iOpener guide|new_window=true] for info on how to use the iOpener. Image 2/2: Refer to the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Instructions/11677|iOpener guide|new_window=true] for info on how to use the iOpener.
  • Use an iOpener or heat gun to loosen the adhesive on the upper and lower speaker grilles.

I used a heat gun settings 200 at 75, but I also found using a hair dryer works just as well. Heated up the bezels came right off and for putting back on I heated it back up and they have stayed put.

Jason Cobb - Reply

I used a hair dryer for this which worked fine but I didn't need to heat it for as long as I did. 10-20 seconds is enough to start. I didn't realise how hot it would get so after heating for 90 seconds on high heat the phone was absolutely roasting and I've got two spots of heat damage on my screen. Still all works though luckily.

Ian - Reply

Image 1/3: The adhesive is messy, and can be removed using Goo-gone. Image 2/3: The adhesive is messy, and can be removed using Goo-gone. Image 3/3: The adhesive is messy, and can be removed using Goo-gone.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the lower speaker grille.

  • The adhesive is messy, and can be removed using Goo-gone.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently peel up the upper speaker grille.

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Image 1/1: Remove the four black 4 mm T5 Torx screws from the bottom.
  • Remove the two silver 3 mm Phillips #00 screws from the top.

  • Remove the four black 4 mm T5 Torx screws from the bottom.

The markers on step 8 were wrong. The 4 black TX screws are actually all in the bottom, while the silver screws are on top.

WP7User - Reply

Nice good good

tamerseleman68 - Reply

Image 1/3: A metal spudger is pictured, but it is best to use a nylon spudger to prevent marring the device. Image 2/3: Be careful not to lose the power button: it sits loosely in the top of the lower chassis. Image 3/3: Significant force may be required to pry the casing apart.
  • Work your way around the perimeter of the phone with a spudger and plastic opening picks to free the clips that secure the rear case to the display assembly.

    • A metal spudger is pictured, but it is best to use a nylon spudger to prevent marring the device.

    • Be careful not to lose the power button: it sits loosely in the top of the lower chassis.

  • Significant force may be required to pry the casing apart.

Note: the pictures make it look like it's the glass the comes loose from the body. In fact, it's the metal shell the comes off, while all of the electronics are attached to the face. To get it started, you have to dig your spudger in between the metal shell and the little plastic rim that goes around the glass. I found it easiest to start in the middle, below the volume buttons.

Kael Shipman - Reply

I wish this was more clear in the picture. I ended up cracking my screen/digitiser trying to pry the glass open... the more you know!

NzUddin -

I tried starting by the volume buttons but was having no luck. I found starting just under the sim card worked best. Raising the whole side and the top up allowed the rest to come out. Be mindful of the charging port at the bottom and don't force the bottom out first but rather lift the top end out then the charger will clear. Same goes for putting back together. Charger port in first them push down on the sides and top.

Jason Cobb - Reply

I used guitar picks to wedge inside the case as I prised it open

Ian - Reply

Image 1/2: Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the battery connector. Image 2/2: Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the battery connector.
  • Remove the two silver 2 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the battery connector to the motherboard.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the battery connector.

This caused a bit of grief for me on the reassembly. Be very mindful of the battery connector when installing the new battery. Look closely at the connector there is what appears to be a diode on the underside that needs to mate with proper contact to another diode on the motherboard. This is what actually allows communication between the phone and the motherboard. If this connection isn't mated properly you will get a 0% indicator on the screen and no charging occurring. Also the orange LED will flash 6 times and repeat. I suggest before placing the phone back together completely in the case to screw the motherboard back together and attach all ribbon cables and mate the battery. Then plug it in a charger and make sure you get proper battery communication and charging. DO NOT power on the phone at this point. Unplug the charger and put everything back together and you should be ok.

Jason Cobb - Reply

Image 1/3: Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the seven ZIF connectors. Image 2/3: Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull the seven ribbon cables free of the connectors. Image 3/3: Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull the seven ribbon cables free of the connectors.
  • Use a spudger to disconnect the two antenna cables.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the seven ZIF connectors.

  • Use a pair of tweezers to gently pull the seven ribbon cables free of the connectors.

All my connectors were covered in fibrous copper tape

Karl Horton - Reply

In mine, there were also two cables connecting at the top left of the motherboard to the daughterboard above as well, and where there is only one antenna cable in the bottom left of the default image, there were two.

William Miceli - Reply

Tape covered my whole assembly as well and the antenna cables were the same as previous poster.

Jason Cobb - Reply

The two cables at the top of the motherboard near the camera, mentioned by commenters above, will have a small rubber pad on top of them. You may wish to keep that pad. Also not pictured here is the LED surround. It can easily come loose from the motherboard. Don't lose that either.

Alex LeDonne - Reply

I accidentally broke the ribbon cable in the upper left that dives under the blue daughterboard. I'm not sure how, but it was probably trying to get the tape loose. The only problem it seems to have caused is that the proximity sensor (next to the front-facing camera) doesn't work and neither does the notification LED.

KC Baltz - Reply

Hi im trying to locate on internet the ZIF connector for the digitizer but its impossible to know how many PINS does it have can you help ?

Pawel Pieta - Reply

Mine was covered in tape as well. I gently pealed it off and managed to leave most of it intact for when I put it back together. Also had the two cables connected at the top left, they can be detached and reattached in the same way as the other two at the bottom. Just lift them off using a spudger when detaching then hold them in place with tweezers whilst pushing down on top with a small screw driver until it clicks in when reattaching.

Ian - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove three silver 3mm screws using T5 screwdriver.

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Image 1/3: Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the motherboard free of the display assembly. Image 2/3: At this point, the bottom speaker is still attached to the motherboard. If you are only replacing the motherboard, refer to the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/HTC+One+M8+Bottom+Speaker+Replacement/41993#s96685|bottom speaker guide|new_window=true] to swap your existing speaker to the new motherboard. Image 3/3: At this point, the bottom speaker is still attached to the motherboard. If you are only replacing the motherboard, refer to the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/HTC+One+M8+Bottom+Speaker+Replacement/41993#s96685|bottom speaker guide|new_window=true] to swap your existing speaker to the new motherboard.
  • Use an iOpener or a heat gun to loosen up the adhesive securing the motherboard to the display assembly.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the motherboard free of the display assembly.

  • At this point, the bottom speaker is still attached to the motherboard. If you are only replacing the motherboard, refer to the bottom speaker guide to swap your existing speaker to the new motherboard.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Michael Gonzalez

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Thanks you very much

ngvhiem26 - Reply

all ok. thanks.

Javier - Reply

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