Charging Port Removal

Lift the right earpad (labeled R) straight up and remove it.

Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or a small, straightened paperclip into the hole on the top edge of the right ear cup (labeled R).

Push down with your tool and pull the headband connector straight out of its socket.

Set the right ear cup down on a soft, clean cloth to prevent scratches and help stabilize the cup during your repair.

Use a P5 pentalobe screwdriver to turn (not remove) the four speaker housing screws to the unlocked position:

Turn the top left and bottom right screws counterclockwise.

Turn the top right and bottom left screws clockwise.

Option 1: Apply a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (>90%) in the gap around the perimeter of the speaker housing. Wait one minute to allow the alcohol to soften the adhesive.

Option 2: Heat the speaker housing with an iOpener or hair dryer. Focus the heat around the perimeter, applying small amounts for short periods of time.

Insert the flat side of your opening tool into the gap between the left side of the speaker housing and the lip of the ear cup (opposite the R marking).

Pry up the speaker housing until you can grip it with your fingers, applying constant pressure to allow the adhesive to separate.

Lift the speaker housing out of the ear cup to fully separate the remaining adhesive.

Flip the housing over the side of the cup and prop it up so you can access the cable.

Use a Torx Plus 1IP screwdriver to remove the 1.7 mm‑long screw securing the speaker housing cable cover.

Use tweezers to remove the cover.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker housing press connector.

Remove the speaker housing.

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove three speaker driver screws:

Two 6.0 mm‑long screws

One 6.0 mm‑long screw that's slightly thicker than the other two

Remove the 5.1 mm‑long standoff screw using one of the two methods below:

Option 1: Stick a small flathead screwdriver into one of the four notches on top of the screw and use it to slowly turn the screw.

Option 2: Use a Torq-Set 6 screwdriver to remove the screw, applying constant downward force to avoid damaging the screw.

Lift the top edge of the speaker and remove it, being careful not to touch the diaphragm.

Remove the two connector cover screws:

One 7.0 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screw

One 1.7 mm‑long Torx Plus 1IP screw

Slide the cover out of the slots and remove it.

Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery press connector (the smaller one, not the one that folds under the board).

Use a Torx Plus 5IP screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the sides of the battery cells.

If the screw isn't coming out once fully loosened, use tweezers to pull it out.

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the three screws securing the battery cells:

Two 4.0 mm‑long screws

One 7.0 mm‑long screw

Slide the battery cells out of their recesses one at a time and remove them.

Use a Torx Plus 1IP screwdriver to remove the two 1.7 mm‑long screws securing the power board connectors cover.

Use tweezers to remove the cover.

Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the three press connectors on the power board.

Use a Torx Plus 3IP screwdriver to remove the two 5.7 mm‑long screws securing the power board.

Slowly pull the power board out of its recess and flip it over the side of the ear cup, giving you access to the connector on the underside.

Use the point of a spudger to press on alternating sides of the sliding connector tabs to "walk" it out of the socket.

Remove the power board.

Use tweezers or your fingers to gently lift the mic cable off the top of the charging port.

Remove the four screws securing the charging port:

Two 3.7 mm‑long Torx Plus 3IP screws

Two 2.2 mm‑long Torx Plus 1IP screws

While holding the microphone cable out of the way, use tweezers to slide the charging port out of its recess and remove it.