Unfortunately, opening up your Apple Watch may damage the Force Touch sensor, which also serves as a gasketing seal. The sensor is made up of two layers, glued together. These layers may separate when you open your watch, compromising its seal after reassembly. If this happens, you'll need to repair or replace the sensor before reassembling your watch.

Be sure to follow our Apple Watch Adhesive Replacement guide when you're done.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

      • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Reply

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Reply

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Reply

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - Reply

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Reply

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - Reply

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Reply

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?



    Cedric VINCENT - Reply

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Reply

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Reply

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Reply

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Reply

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Reply

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Reply

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Reply

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Reply

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Reply

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Reply

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Reply

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Reply

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Reply

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - Reply

    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Reply

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Reply

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Reply

    • Place the heated iOpener on the face of the watch.

    • Leave the iOpener on the watch for at least a minute to heat the screen and soften the adhesive holding it to the case.

    • You may need to reheat the iOpener, or move it around on the screen as sections cool, to heat the screen enough to pry it off.

    Add Comment

    • Because the gap between the screen and watch body is so thin, a sharp blade is required to separate the two. Read the following warnings carefully before proceeding.

    • Always keep your fingers completely clear of the knife.

    • Be careful not to apply too much pressure, as this might cause the knife to slip and cut you, or damage the watch.

    • Wear eye protection. The knife or glass may break, sending pieces flying.

    Add Comment

    • Using a curved blade minimizes the chance of scratching the case or cracking the glass. Only pry with the curved section of the blade, and not the tip or flat section.

    • Place the curved section of the blade in the gap between the glass and case on the lower edge of the watch face, and press firmly down into the gap.

    • Be very careful to maintain complete control over the knife—once the gap opens, if you're pressing too hard on the knife it may slip in and cut the battery.

    • This should wedge the gap open and cause the glass to lift slightly up from the case.

    • When the glass has lifted, gently rotate the knife down, opening the gap more by pushing the glass up.

    It is not possible to separate the screen from the casing? I have heated this thing numerous times and the opening is way too small to get any type of blade, knife or other tool in between. Any suggestions???

    Paul - Reply

    Using a curved blade like the guide recommends, angle the blade straight down between the glass and the edge of the frame, mid-way along the bottom edge of the case. The metal of the case will flex *just a little bit*, allowing you to slowly rotate the blade so the cutting edge is now pointing towards the center of the watch instead of down towards your work surface. You may need to rock the blade back and forth, sort of massaging the curve into the seam between the glass and the metal before it works. And like they mention above, lots of heat. I used the heatpack they sell, put it in my toaster oven on 200. I started at 130, and went up in 20 degree increments until it worked.

    Pete -

    I've tried everything, heating it up until it's too hot to touch, pressing the knife in the gap straight down, at an angle, nothing seems to work. I've tried using all my arm strength and it still doesn't even enter the gap. Is the iFixit Jimmy not thin enough for the job?

    Kenneth - Reply

    • Once you've opened the gap enough, insert the tip of an opening pick under the glass.

    • Slide the pick along the bottom edge to separate adhesive holding the screen to the case.

    • Be careful not to insert the opening pick too far. Only about 1/8" ( about 3 mm) is necessary, any deeper and you may damage cables.

    Add Comment

    • Roll the opening pick up the side of the button side of the watch, gently pushing in to separate the adhesive and widening the gap as you go.

    • Remember not to push the pick in too far—it's easier to avoid this by rolling the pick, rather than dragging a tip along.

    Add Comment

    • Work the pick around the top right corner, and roll it along the top edge of the screen.

    Add Comment

    • Continue working the pick around the perimeter of the screen, rolling down along the left side to cut the last of the adhesive.

    • Leave the pick in place to keep the adhesive from resealing the screen in place.

    Add Comment

    • While holding the first pick in place, use a second to check that all of the adhesive is separated around the entire perimeter of the screen.

    Add Comment

    • There are two cables connecting the screen to the inside of the watch, near the top left corner. Be careful when prying or you may damage these cables.

    • Pry slightly up on the right side of the screen, to free it from any remaining adhesive.

    • Pry up on the left to free it as well—but do not attempt to remove the screen as it is still held in place by two cables.

    Add Comment

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    • If you can see the top layer of your Force Touch sensor among the display adhesive, it means the two layers of the sensor separated and you're going to need to replace or repair it.

    • The top layer of the sensor may be adhered to the back of the screen—push it down to separate it, and switch to our Force Touch Sensor guide from this point on.

    Add Comment

    • Lift the screen up and shift it to the left, minding the display data and digitizer cables.

    Add Comment

    • Place the watch on an elevated surface, at least 1/2" or 1 cm tall—a small box or the edge of a book will work great. This will allow the screen to hang down vertically and give better access to the battery.

    • Be careful not to bump the screen or strain the cables while you work.

    Add Comment

    • Wedge a plastic opening tool between the right side of the battery and the case.

    • Pry the battery up to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the system board.

    • Do not attempt to remove the battery as it is still connected.

    I tried removing the battery with the prying tool as instructed, but I think it may have slightly damaged the outer black plastic wrapping of the battery. Does this mean the battery is now damaged and needs to be replaced? Or is that just a cover around the battery and it doesn’t matter? I just don’t want any battery chemicals leaking out. Asking before I stick the screen back on the watch, I’ve done all the rest and it seems fine otherwise.

    Danae - Reply

    Hi Danae, the black plastic is technically just protective, but I would highly recommend replacing the battery. It’s possible there is additional unseen damage, and that plastic helps protect against swelling and normal wear of the battery inside the device.

    Sam Lionheart -

    • Rotate the battery counterclockwise to expose its connector.

    Add Comment

    • Hold the battery up and out of the way, to expose the battery cable connector.

    • Use a plastic opening tool, prying against the bottom of the case to separate the battery cable connector from the watch's battery cable.

    • Remove the battery from the watch.

    Why should you remove the battery if you only need to replace the screen?...?

    Douglas Richey - Reply

    Douglas - this iFixit is for Apple Watch Battery Replacement - looks like you need to remove the screen to replace the battery...

    jimvaughn6 - Reply

    You will find that it is a good precautionary measure to disconnect the battery anytime you are repairing or replacing a screen as a short can occur when reconnecting the screen rendering it useless even if you have the unit turned off.

    Bryan Solo - Reply

    Great repair guide! You iFixit guys are awesome. Took me about 2 hours but then I am very careful and I replaced the touch sensor at the same time since I had it open anyway. Make sure you have at least 2, and better 3 adhesive gaskets. You need 2 and, well, it’s easy to mess one up while trying to place it.

    rbolling - Reply

    Will removing the battery reset my icloud info? I have a guy who says he can do this, but i dont want him to run off with my watch after he replaces the battery…

    dreadmusicreview - Reply

    • Fold the screen up and over to the right, to expose the cables underneath.

    Add Comment

    • The display and digitizer cable connectors are secured beneath a small metal bracket that is adhered to the speaker.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to flip the bracket toward the display and up from the speaker.

    • If you simply pry toward the watch band you may tear the cables.

    Add Comment

    • The bracket that contains the display and digitizer cable connections is made up of an upper and lower piece. The connectors are secured to the lower, and the upper must be removed to disconnect them.

    • Use fine-tipped tweezers to grasp the lower half of the bracket.

    • There is a small metal tab that protrudes downward from the upper metal bracket.

    • Insert a small (1 mm) flathead screwdriver between the tab and the lower bracket, and rotate the screwdriver to spread the gap.

    • This will release two tabs that hold the upper bracket to the lower, and should free the upper bracket.

    I was really careful at this step but damaged the connectors inside. I would not advise the above method of separation and thin this should be reviewed. Your video is also misleading as to how "easy" it is to separate these two plates. Please review this.

    Brent - Reply

    Brent, how did you realized that inner connector was damaged?

    Ivan Sorkin -

    I agree with Brent. Your instructions are not very clear about how to get the bracket apart. I also damaged one of the pop connectors. Your picture shows the tweezers inside between the upper and lower part of the bracket. If you are not careful that will damage the pop connector on that side which is exactly what I did. If you can get something on the tiny tab on the unhinged side of the bracket and slightly pry it apart the bracket will come right apart.

    Douglas Richey - Reply

    Also agree: a little too much pressure and the ribbon cable tears at the point it enters the bracket. Take it SLOW and make sure you have really good light and vision. Orient yourself.

    Dave Varon - Reply

    And this is where things went south for me too. Ended up disconnecting from the rest of the watch and the Taptic Engine. I read through this and watched this portion of Ifixit’s YouTube video no less than 15 times, so confusing they way it’s worded and the pictures didn’t help. Now I’m out of luck and out of $190.

    Timothy Hipps - Reply

    I also damaged the ribbon following this direction. Tweezers can not be inserted between the the clip body. Seems to me a different tool is needed to release the the hinge clasp where the the screw driver blade is used?

    guy gagne - Reply

    • The upper half of the display connector bracket is held at the upper end by a metal tab that fits into a slot in the lower bracket.

    • Grab the upper bracket with your tweezers and slide it toward the top of the watch to disengage this tab and free the bracket.

    Add Comment

    • Disconnect the display data and digitizer cables.

    • Be careful not to touch any of the contacts directly, as your finger oils may impede connectivity.

    • Remove the display.

    So how do you get the display off the screen or did I already mess it up cause I just did it

    Jamie Groff - Reply

    Hello guys , appreciate the effort that u guys are doing , have one question though , I own a series 2 watch and I was thinking about changing my screen caz is cracked but I can't find that many lcd for 2 series , and now my question Would a 1 series lcd match my 2series watch? Keep on searching but no answers!!! Many thanks

    cris cri - Reply

    Great repair guide! You iFixit guys are awesome. Took me about 2 hours but then I am very careful and I replaced the touch sensor and the battery at the same time since I had it open anyway. Make sure you have at least 2, and better 3 adhesive gaskets. You need 2 and, well, it’s easy to mess one up while trying to place it.

    rbolling - Reply

    • Remove the single triwing screw securing the Force Touch sensor connector cable.

    • Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver Bit

    • This screw is very small and strips easily, take care to operate at a proper angle and push as you turn.

    Add Comment

    • Use a plastic opening tool to flip the Force Touch sensor cable connector straight down, disconnecting it.

    Add Comment

    • Microwave your iOpener for another 30 seconds, and apply it to the front of the watch case to soften the adhesive securing the Force Touch sensor.

    Add Comment

    • Use a plastic opening pick and tweezers to remove the Force Touch sensor from the case.

    Add Comment

    • Use tweezers to peel up any adhesive left behind on the lower case. Also remove any adhesive that stuck to the Force Touch sensor.

    • You may want to use an alcohol-soaked q-tip to clean any residue off the case. Be sure to let it dry before proceeding.

    Add Comment

    • Use tweezers to peel the outer ring off of one of the adhesive strip pads.

    • Be sure to get both the double-sided adhesive and the brown backing paper.

    • Be very careful not to fold, bend, or stretch the adhesive tape, as this will make it too thick to seal the screen without a ridge between the screen and the case.

    Note: backing paper color may be different if you purchased it elsewhere. For instance, the adhesive pads I used had brown backing only on one side, and a translucent teal backing on the other.

    Chris Donnelly - Reply

    • Lay the backed adhesive tape down on the case, around the edge where the screen rests.

    • Start in a corner with the tape as close to the corner wall as possible.

    • Press on the brown backing paper with a plastic opening tool to secure the adhesive around the entire perimeter.

    Add Comment

    • The following steps detail repairing a Force Touch sensor with separated layers. If you're replacing your Force Touch sensor with a new part, ignore these steps.

    • The remaining adhesive sticker backing makes a great work surface.

    • Open the gap between the two layers, but do not peel apart any more of the original adhesive.

    • Apply super-glue to the lower half of the sensor and press the upper half down into the glue. Press hard to squeeze out any excess glue and make the sensor as thin as possible.

    Add Comment

    • Before the sensor gets glued to the paper, lift it up and let it complete its drying in the air.

    • You will likely have a few small extrusions of glue—once they've dried, you can break these off with tweezers.

    Add Comment

    • Peel the backing off of the adhesive you applied earlier.

    Add Comment

    • Set the Force Touch sensor on top of the adhesive, back in the case. Be sure to properly orient it, with the connector in the lower left corner, facing up.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to press it against the adhesive and make a tight seal.

    Add Comment

    • Use tweezers to fold the Force Touch sensor cable connector back up onto its socket.

    • Then use a plastic opening tool to press the cable connector into the socket.

    Add Comment

    • Replace the triwing screw securing the Force Touch sensor connector cable.

    Replace the sensor gasket but force touch is still not working

    Judith williams - Reply

    Did you ever fix out what it was ?

    Kenny G Sullivan -

    Great repair guide! You iFixit guys are awesome. Took me about 2 hours but then I am very careful and I replaced the battery at the same time since I had it open anyway. Make sure you have at least 2, and better 3 adhesive gaskets. You need 2 and, well, it’s easy to mess one up while trying to place it.

    rbolling - Reply


To continue reassembling your device, follow our Apple Watch Adhesive Replacement guide.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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I can't stress enough how important it is to not flex the digitizer ribbon cable. A cracked ribbon cable will necessitate replacing the entire lcd.

Charles Fulnecky - Reply

If there is a new induction frame - do not use double-sided adhesive tape.

Sergey Olenev - Reply

How can I tell if there is a new induction frame?

Daniel Ferguson -

I have a new force touch sensor replacement part (9515364), which appears to have teal backing on both sides. Do I also need a gasket? Or is the gasket included in this part? Thanks!

Jahi Gist - Reply

can we switch ON the watch without this sensor ?

mahesh.msn94 - Reply

Do i have to put the 3d sensor on the adhesive and on that the display? or in another order?

leon Schmidt - Reply

I replaced the entire lcd following the instructions but I forgot to put back the clip that secures the two screen connectors!!! The screen seems to be working fine but now

I’m wondering whether I should open the watch again and put back that clip or if I can left it the way it is. Thanks

nicorea81 - Reply

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