Well, you can use it... but its a right PITA.
What a ridiculously designed keyboard.. 100+ screws?
I bought a replacement keyboard, and backlight and set of screws to replace the rivets... so I went ahead and did it.
Here's a rough outline of the procedure.
pull apart your crapbook, remove everything so all you have left it the topcover, the touchpad, the keyboard and the backlight that attaches to the keyboard. Take care with the cables.
see guides on the web for dismantling. keep track of screws, again...take care removing cables.
disconnect the old keyboard cable from the pcb circuit board on the touchpad, VERY carefully - otherwise your up for a new touchpad.
Now, there may be better ways of doing this, but this is how I did it.
I tore off the backlight by working my away around the edges of the black plastic backing thats glued around the sides of the kb/backlight, then removed the backlight. (actually, pretty much lost patience and tore it off... if you don't have a back light... take care and you MAY be able to reuse it.
you can now see the keyboard.
remove a shipload of pissy little screws, all the little brown ones around the edges.
NOW, here's the fun part...
The only thing holding the kb in place is the rivets.
I started in one corner, pushing all 4 keys around the particular rivet, until it came out. theoretically you could do this for every rivet... if you didn't mind spending a day at it... I was too impatient.
I grabbed hold of the corner of the keyboard that I had lifted up, lay the top cover on a flat covered bench, and while pressing down on the top cover to stop it from breaking or bending, pulled up on the keyboard, slowly pulling out or tearing of the rivets.
So, now I was down to just the top cover, with the touch pad attached.
However, now I had lots of sheared of rivets sticking up...
I contemplated putting in the new keyboard and then gluing all the rivets with glue - araldyte or similar, but decided to remove the rivets instead.
long nose pliers, etc, failed in removing the rivets, they just mashed the tips.
The easiest way I found was to lay the topcover face down, and then, half holding half leaning on the top cover with the hand/arm i was using to hold the screwdriver, I hit the screwdriver against the side of the rivet, which usually caused it to simply pop out cleanly.
That only took 20 mins or so to remove them all. some of the more stubborn ones I had to tap once or twice from each side before they came out.
in the end I probably had half a dozen rivets that either snapped off flush with the top cover, or I sheared off originally using pliers.
There are so many rivets I don't really think it makes that much difference, you just don't want a large patch missing I guess.
then it was a case of installing the new keyboard (clean the holes in the topcover first if required), install the little brown screws, and checking how it looks from the front occasionally as you go.
Once they're all in, start putting in all the screws to replace the rivets.
do them up so they are flush with the base of the keyboard. if you have trouble with some, remove them and use a new screw... there's usually quite a few spare.
once that's done, peel the edging - blue stuff off the new back light, then the protective cover, line up the three holes, and insert onto the new keyboard. then smooth it out and press down on the edges to allow the glue to stick. be careful of the new back light power cable, its tiny.
From there its a case of, as they say, installation is the reverse of this procedure. and of course, your mileage may vary.
I hope this helps someone who has already purchased the keyboard to fix the issue.
If in doubt, I'd recommend replacing the entire top cover instead, although it would be expensive.
Otherwise, I'd say go and buy a proper laptop. u know, the ones that you usually only need to remove a couple of screws to change a keyboard, and that the screens aren't held together with double sided tape....