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Released on October 23, 2012. Core i5 or Core i7 Processor. Apple Fusion Drive.

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Mac mini turns on then off straight away fan spins and light turns on.

I’ve recently brought a job lot of Mac minis the Mac mini I’m focusing on when plugged in and I press the power button the fan spins and the light turns on. After about 5 seconds it switches off. I have replaced the PRAM battery may be the wrong one as it’s a CR2032. The RAM has been replaced and so has the hard drive does anyone have any of things I can check. (Ps. I have checked for shorts and there isn’t any that can be seen)

Update (02/17/24)

So this is what it looks like should I clear all this test the board etc it’s doing a full spin now. Hopefully these are easily fixed.

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Update (02/17/24)

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this is after a clean

Update (02/17/24)

this is what I get after all the steps I’m guessing there’s a much bigger issue there’s a longer spin with the fan now though

Answer this question I have this problem too

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There are two variations of this system! Plug your systems S/N here to see which one you have EveryMac - Lookup. Basically you have two versions of this system logic board: Macmini6,1 or Macmini6,2.

I often find the Macmini6,2 models tend to fail from a fractured GPU chip that’s the smaller chip under the heat sink from overheating.

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After you saying this I have a question could overflowing thermal paste cause this if so when I took apart the thermal paste from this was all underneath this. If so would I just remove this and replace it or would that not work as I have the exact same board but is a donor board

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@jordan57623 - Clean the Thermal Paste to inspect the chip physically.

Improper TIM or to much or to little can also create issues if the system was previously redone.

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@jordan57623 - You'll need to take a cotton swab (Q-Tip) and some 90% isopropyl alcohol to carefully remove the thermal paste as its blocking the view to the chips surface. You will need to re-paste the chips before you run the system so don't push things here without the heat sink remounted. Note the paste has also spread to some of the very small SMD devices on the Green carrier plate even Apple is messy! It really only takes a veery small pea's worth of paste.


To be very clear here, we need the paste! But you can make things worse by putting too much and the heat sink its self can fail! Just like your cars radiator is filled with a coolant so is this heat sink. So what can happen is the tubes leak! And when they do the chips can overheat.

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You’re honestly amazing thank you, what would be the correct amount to put on I have Artic MX-6 but will be the first time using thermal paste

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@jordan57623 - After cleaning the chips take a nice clear tight image so we can see the top of the chip and post it here so we too can see things.


Then take some thin tissue paper (one sheet) of Face or TP cut it to the size of the chip, now wet your fingers and roll it into a tight ball, even this is a bit much! But it gives you the scale of not exceeding this volume. As this is a first time for you get some painters tape so you can mask off the area around the chip you first try so you don't mess up the small SMD devices. These are fragile! And the paste can alter their function too!

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My 2012 6,2 is still holding up and hasn't cooked itself to death. Will a repaste mitigate this?

For the power end of protecting it, I do have it on a surge protector that's designed to sacrifice itself by shutting down permanently when it's weakened from Tripp-Lite to protect the Mini and monitor.

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Thermal Paste like a lot of things has improved over the years so redoing the TIM in older systems often makes sense, systems older than 2015 could benefit from a refresh.


But before you go that far, are you running your system hard? Gaming or image/video rendering being the common acts that can push your system too far.


Surge protection is important! But lighting and poor grounding can also hit you! Here the risk is via other connections than the power cord. I'm suspecting a sizable hit came in through the Ethernet port. I can't see any reason the Filter/Transformer unit would have its case damaged as we can see in the video.


Grounding at the outlet as well as the breaker panel is important! If you are crossing different power domains (different street connections) you can encounter phase issues! Thats when the 120 line you are using is at a different phase than the other domain. So now you have the risk of 220 being pumped into your system!

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@danj It’s a mix of general web usage and print server duty, but mostly as a print server. It basically runs 24/7 so there’s that — maybe not being turned off intermittently helps.

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@nick - Giving the use here I don’t think you’ll encounter any issues


If you are concerned install TG Pro it will allow you to monitor your systems temps.

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@danj Probably a good idea given I have the "at risk" board. I also replace the surge protector that I use for the Mini and other equipment every 10 years (or if it shuts down due to the permanent shutdown protection, I have to).

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@nick - The issue is running the system hard.


The design here uses a limited sized heat sink so a CPU & GPU combo, as I expressed it’s Gaming or image/video rendering being the common acts that can push your system too far. You’re not doing that.

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Jordan will be eternally grateful.
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