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High performance tablet computer released by Apple on November 11, 2015. Model A1584.

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How do I change a Smart Connector flex cable?

I have an A1652 iPad. Changed the battery out but the Smart Connector for the keyboard got sliced by the iFixit card tool. I can't seem to find a way to remove the current Smart Connector retaining clip/cleat.

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From what I can tell it's not an easy process. Check step 22 of the tear down for this model. It's glued into the enclosure very soundly.
It's probably doable, and I have found the part available for purchase, but I suspect it's going to require a lot of doing to get the old one out.

iPad Pro 12.9" Teardown

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Thank you! Don't know how many certified Apple repair places and product sellers have no idea what this is. Do we think that drilling out the square "welds" would prevent the forced damage? How about filling the iPad edge sitting upright with a glue solvent?


Well, I kept my approach conservative.

1. I applied heat directed away from the motherboard using a 300-600° heat gun.

2.Drench the spot in alcohol

3. Use a high carbon micro flat tip screwdriver to pry outward under the "winged" ends and work those forward. The metal cleat is pretty malleable and will relent bending in the middle. Just glue—no spot welds.

4. When one side is released, add more alcohol.

5. When ready, pull the cleat away slowly and carefully. Remove the damaged flex cable.

6. Glue. Clean it out with a glue solvent releaser. Push the three contact points from outside the iPad. Let solvent do the heavy lifting at each step.

7. I will replace the flex cable but am not quite sure about the glue to re adhere the new contact cable. Tips? Silicone? Gel Superglue? Epoxy? Waterproof.

8. Straighten out the cleat and push it into the two square recesses into the glue. Clamp in place.

9. Peel and mount the new flex cable.

10. Reassemble using all power precautions. Thank you to @flannelist


@pnolanifix Nice. Sounds like you made easy work of it. (Well, as easy as possible anyways). I would have to to do some research about what to use to affix the new connector. But this is definitely solid methodology.


Good lighting. Magnifying lens. high carbon micro screwdriver. Patience ++


I've discovered a problem that's not mentioned. The pins of the new connector will ground against the case because the black case port bezels, which frame the connector pins like a power bus were destroyed in the removal process. Frankly, I don't see how they were not all touching against the metal bracket from the original install either. Perplexed. And new flex cable not only doesn't have new bezels but contacts are too large to fit through holes in chassis


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patrick nolan will be eternally grateful.
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