Alisha C

Bought this phone on eBay to fix up/use for parts/whatever I could manage, so history is limited, but here’s what I know....

I’m working on a Dell 15” XPS 7590 that is was brought in for intermittently going to the lock screen. Determined the...

Have a machine I’m working on which came in for liquid damage. This is the first one of these new Pros we have seen (at my...

I have an iPad 6 I’ve been trying to get up and running for fun. I got it in less than ideal condition, but it seemed to...

I have a machine I’m working on at the moment where the user complained of random shutdowns. Part of my normal diagnostic...

So. I have a machine on my bench right now that is not powering off. Came in for “powering off randomly for no reason.”...

I have seen this on a few machines, but this is the specific model I can remember it being an issue. Typically the machine...

I once asked this same question and have not yet found a solution for this. It is something that is baked into the firmware as far as I can tell, and it would need to be corrected in some form on the hardware level. I'm not entirely certain where the SSD temp sensor is on this model. And even so. I feel like the TG Pro label for that may be misleading since there are quite a few NAND packages on this board if it's a high capacity drive, so having just 1 temp sensor for the SSD seems improbable. The board itself can likely be repaired by the correct person, if you're feeling especially adventurous I would check and see if components on the board look loose, missing,or otherwise abnormal. It's not unusual for some small component to be dislodged when taking the board out, or disconnecting connectors. EDIT: You may be able to get some information from system logs if you're interested. https://logi.wiki/index.php/SMC_Sensor_C... has the full list of sensors and their corresponding Apple names. It does look...

If your end goal is just to remove the Activation Lock/Find my Device from the iPhone so it can be used by someone else, you can contact Apple regarding Activation Lock removal, assuming this relative was the original owner of the device and can still locate original proof of purchase. This can be done here. https://al-support.apple.com/#/additional-support If the end goal also includes regaining access to the Apple ID, your only option is to walk through the password reset process, indicating where necessary you don't have access to whatever backup contact method and eventually you should get to a point where it will offer to initiate an account recovery. Keep in mind that attempting to recover multiple times after this request has been submitted can delay or complicate the process. It usually will take a few days for this to be done since I believe this information is manually reviewed before a password reset directions are sent.

Retrace your steps. If it was was powering up and charging before the screen change , battery connector seems logical, since realistically that would have been something that would need to be manipulated to change the display. It's possible that was the initial issue. But in replacing the battery connector you then introduced another variable. I would start looking at this area of the board since this nearly all the the lines from the battery connector go through this area. And this is also where the battery gas gauge data would be transmitted. make sure nothing here is bridged, or shorted. If this information cannot be transmitted to its destination, the iPad may not be aware there is enough power in the battery to power on. Or it may be getting garbled information. I will also note, that there appears to be a missing NTC resistor where I stuck the yellow arrow. (documentation for this model seems to be a bit inconsistent, so cannot say this for sure, but the stuff I have says there should be something...

This is most likely a corrupted/damaged BIOS. I have had this happen to one of the machines at the office where I work, processed a BIOS update that botched and would only flash white, no pattern. I had to make a BIOS recovery flash drive. You can find the downloader for the BIOS update for that at HP's support site for your model (The Elitebook 840 G2 drivers and downloads site is here). If you run the installer on a different Windows machine, it should give you the option to create a recovery drive for another device. I often get an error with these where it cannot save to the required folder because it doesn't exist or something to that effect. You just need to create that folder in the root directory on the flash drive. Once the recovery drive is created, plug it into the device that needs recovery and then power it on. Theoretically it should recognize the BIOS update file and process the update.

If the damage was to the Audio board area, then you would need to retain the original Power button/Touch ID board to be able to get finger print to work. If you're still using that button, then it's possible the circuitry inside the Touch ID module was damaged by the liquid. I believe on these models (T2 models), the Touch ID module CAN be replaced by Apple, independent of the logic board, (just not vice versa and on older models they need to be replaced together regardless). But in order for Touch ID to function, Apple needs to perform the Touch ID replacement so it can be paired with the logic board as part of the repair.

Start with the easy fixes. Have you restarted the phone? Updated software? Does your flashlight work? What about your front camera? Some history of the device may also be helpful as well before I start jumping into possible problems. But. Realistically in my experience, if the camera is just showing a black screen or crashes the app, but front facing camera seems to work, the rear camera is faulty and needs to be replaced. This is especially true if the flash is also not functioning since the enable signals for the flash travel through the camera/require a functional camera to be present.

The no wake/power when the lid is opened definitely sounds like there could be an issue with the Hall sensor. There are 2 of these models on the left and right ends of the board. They are indicated by the orange on this picture. I would just check to make sure nothing there is amiss. But, given your previous trackpad history, I will also mention this signal is transmitted to the trackpad... likely so it can be disabled when the lid is closed. I would check to see if there's an issue with the SMC_LID line on the board, if you have access to boardviews. Or check to see if its possibly shorted on the trackpad end. It's the pin in the lower left corner of the trackpad connector (on the board). You might need to do some detective work to figure out where that goes on the trackpad end. https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/OanZKhMeySXGqb...

Definitely sounds like it could be a hardware issue. These Airs are relatively easy to get open. I would certainly pop the bottom off and have a look (unplug the battery of course, because you start monkeying with anything). Your issue could lie in a few places. On the M1 model, the keyboard plugs into a small board around the underside of the trackpad. And a little arm of a flex cable connects that board into the trackpad cable (technically Apple calls it the IPD cable for this reason), which then goes to the logic board for the system. If you're lucky you'll just have to reseat one or both of these cables. You can see what I mean here https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/2JPFuEgSnF53Mj... I will also mention it is not an uncommon place to get liquid damage. It's much more typical for there to be an issue with the trackpad, but even if you don't think you've ever spilled, it's a spot that's fairly susceptible to even a small amount.

The part on the right side of the photo is the LED driver board, which provides power for, and controls the display backlight. The part on the left of the photo is the Power Supply.

I have not heard of these specifically, but if it's indicating these sensors are missing (hence the reboot), and based on the history of this device I would suspect VERY strongly that these sensors are all in the Display. Apple's naming conventions for these sensors are not made public, but they tend to use a pretty normal set of abbreviations. And this would make sense to me (D at the end for Display). I don't have much in the way of technical documentation for these specific units, but my suspicion is that whatever line the data from sensors is coming in on is the issue. Could be the FPC, or the the replacement cable. Make sure all your solder joints on the FPC are sound. Check Diode mode readings for whatever connector was replaced. You can find expected readings at https://logi.wiki/index.php/iPad_Diode_M...

I’m glad I was not the only one who tried this, but you had much more success than me. We used to use ours for the remote to the TV which gets lost often and then the battery died and I refused to believe it was not user replaceable. Unfortunately I didn’t have much luck actually getting past step 1 since the two halves staunchly refused to come apart. So I murdered it in frustration and threw it in the bin.