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A more affordable, purely handheld version of the Nintendo Switch game console, with integrated Joy-Con controllers and a slightly smaller screen. Released September 20, 2019.

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What tools do I need to replace the charging port?

What tools do I need to replace the charging port? I have a basic soldering kit, and basic drivers. What else do I need?

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if its a switch lite you can’t use an original switch port unless you file the edge off as its a slightly different shape, you can use solder paste to lower the temp on the anchor points, most flux works fine for it like kingbo or amtech, do not use low melt or paste on the pads use 60/40 solder and heat with hot air from below. most things you need will be on ebay or amazon.

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This is very helpful to someone like myself because I have no experience in the field and everyone charges out of this world's amount to fix anything now.

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Hi @obenus ,

Here’s the ifixit Nintendo Switch Lite Motherboard Replacement guide. It shows what tools are needed to remove the motherboard so that the charge port can be replaced.

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Thanks! I really think that will help a lot, but I need to replace the charging port. Some videos online help, but I don't know what flux they are using or the heating tools that work best or where to buy them.

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@obenus

To remove the charge port you need to remove the motherboard to get good access to the port.

Looking at the motherboard you can't tell if it is an smd type charge port or a through hole type which means that if it is the latter you will need to get to the underside of the board. I don't know what type it is as I've never removed one from a Switch

For one-off jobs, using either de-soldering wick or solder sucker in conjunction with a soldering iron should suffice. (supplier example only - search for solder wick or solder sucker)

Only apply enough heat with the iron to get the solder to start to melt so that it draws up the wick or can be suckered off by the pump and allow a bit of time between to cool so you don't overheat the board and accidentally lift the traces and then do a bit more to clean it all off.. Once clean the port should fall off (or out) by itself or at least lift off - careful if it is still hot!

Perhaps practice on an old disused board first to get the idea if you've never soldered before.

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@jayeff Thanks for your help on this!

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I've done this myself with basic soldering iron, and cheap hot air station. It's possible, but harder. After that, I spent just over £1000 on better equipment

You ideally need: low melt solder to mix with anchor points, and rear pins.

Plenty of flux, and a hot air gun with a nozzle wide enough to cover the port, as you have another row of pins hidden, so do not force it. When solder liquifies, leave a bit longer, then gently remove.

Solder wick to remove all the excess solder.

Then use low melt to tin the pads.

And then hot air again to refit.

Also bear in mind, sometimes, when a port is bad, you might find the power management chip & charging chip goes faulty, so would need to test the caps around those for shorts, and replace if necessary.

About 50% of what I get in require these chips replaced, or another additional component.

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Thanks for the info!

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