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Repair and disassembly guides for GE Microwave ovens.

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G.E. Profile Microwave Door Button Won't Open Door

The door button on my G.E. Profile Microwave broke. When pushed, the button makes no contact with mechanism behind it. There is no resistance like there is when it is functioning. Therefore, the door cannot be opened and the turntable continues to go around slowly (without the microwave heating mechanism running).

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Hi,

What is the model number of the microwave oven?

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Thanks Dave and Paul. This was exactly our problem. Called Sears Service and they wanted $362.00 to fix. And we would have to wait 3 weeks for parts. With your instructions is took us 3 hours and we used a bolt through it as suggested. Works great!

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I had the same problem. The plastic post that holds the cam that pushes up on the door latch had sheared off. Really not a good design considering the repetitive force on that post. Luckily, the post is hollow! Once you have access to the inside of the microwave, it's likely that you will see the cam and the sheared-off post sitting on the bottom of the unit. You will see a small circular impression on the black plastic board that has the switches on it-- next to the very bottom switch. You can drill a small hole in the center of this depression and put a small machine bolt through, with a washer and nut on the other side, and then push the cam back on the post. The cam locks on a small tab next to the reattached post. Total cost of parts for this repair was $0.70 for me at my local Ace hardware. You'll find the right parts in the small specialty screw and fastener bins. I hope this helps.

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Think you could post a picture of what is needed? The same thing just happened to me.

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Just adding to the info above after fortunately finding this website after my “plastic post” broke on my built-in GE Profile microwave . When you push the button to open the door like you have numerous times before but this time you hear a snap and feel the button go all the way in freely you’ll hopefully find your way here. First thing to do is unplug the microwave so that the light will go out and the turntable will stop turning. You’ll have to unplug it anyway to remove it from the wall to fix the post. After you use the thin piece of cardboard to jimmy the door open the next task is to figure out where all the screws are holding the trim piece on and then the ones mounting the unit to the wall/cabinent. Once you get it out of the wall/cabinent and remove the housing a quick search will find the broken plastic post and the “plastic cam” that rotates on the post laying somewhere. After you actually see these parts and where they should be you’ll realize what a lousy design GE has come up with to actuate opening a door ! Talk about planned obsolecence !! Now the reason for my post…if you don’t make the effort to use a 4-40 screw , nut and washers to remount this plastic post to where it broke off you’ll just end up right back with a broken microwave down the road when the plastic post breaks off again. That’s what I’d expect if you had a GE repairman or anyone else replace the entire plastic assembly and restore it back to the way it was designed. By remounting the plastic post with hardware you’ll actually be improving the original design considerably and hopefully you won’t ever have to do it again !! The only other thing I want to add is to make sure you use a 4-40 machine screw that has a head big enough to keep the plastic cam part from sliding over it. Use a washer if needed but you don’t want the plastic cam to be able to slide off the post once the post is screwed to the main plastic frame piece. Also, I used a 1.25 inch long machine screw as I found it a lot easier to get the washer and nut on it…there’s plenty of space. That’s it…good luck ! You’ll feel a lot better about the whole debacle once you have everything put back together and the microwave is working again as intended (and now improved !)

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I did the whole #4-40 x 1-1/2 in screw and worked beautifully. Thank you so much. Saved me $400. The screws on the cover are torx screws by the way and make sure the bracket (that broke) is seated before you tighten the screw down. I had to use a small 1/4 wrench to hold the nut side but worked afterwards

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I also used the #4-40 x 1-1/2 screw and associated washer and nut. it worked great. Huge thanks to everyone who described and added info to this fix. The only emphasis I would add is that it took me a while to determine how to re-install the cam. The note on one of the posts that mentions "The cam locks on a small tab next to the reattached post" is the key as this tab keeps the cam locked onto the post allowing it to still rotate and helps you to determine how to re-install.

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I just wanted to say this also worked well for me. Took a bit to figure out what i was looking at and had to drill a little hole in there but yea... thanks a million.

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This repair worked perfectly.

Before I opened the door with a piece of plastic, cut from a frozen dinner tray, I googled how to remove the trim piece surrounding the unit. The answers that I found were to take a screw driver, and pry on the trim. WRONG. After you open the door, you will see 4 plastic caps that cover the 4 screws that hold on the built in trim kit piece. Pry off the caps with a pocket screw driver , and remove the 4 screws.

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The above worked great, thank you so much. Just as an FYI to anyone considering it: I ordered the replacement part from GE and installed that first thinking getting the exact replacement would be better. It lasted one day before it broke again. Don’t do that

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You have to be able to open it to repair it. Be sure to unplug it before working it. You may be able to use a flat head screwdriver to push the mechanism by inserting it on the right side after you have depressed the button but you’re probably out of luck on this on. In case you do get it open, here’s my answer on how to fix it once you can get to it

Microwave door button spring

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Dave’s answer is a good one and it helped me quite a bit. Key points from my experience: 1) use a thin piece of carboard to slide in the right side of the door and lift up the hooks holding the door closed. 2) Bite the bullet and take off the surround ( another crappy part of an overall crappy design, but I digress.) and remove the microwave from the cabinet. Not too bad… only 2 additional screws. Unplug it or course… Probably a good first step. 3) take out about 8 little screws and remove the housing. Be very careful once you get inside… don’t mess with any of the electrical connections. These things have capacitors that hold a charge and blast you!. 4) Find the incredibly insufficient post that has broken off probably just after the warranty period. I used a #4-40 x 1” screw and nut, and some E6000 glue to glue/bolt the post back on. 5) Put the whole mess back together and reinstall. I think the root cause of the failure is that it is possible to push the release button too far (no hard stop) and over stress the ridiculously tiny plastic post. So I have cautioned the family to just push the button enough to release the door and no more. Before ours failed it got to where we had to push the button harder and farther. If this starts to happen to you and you are still under warranty report it and get it fixed. If it is not under warranty you may want to make a preemptory repair. Good luck.

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Same problem.

Used your fix and it worked beautifully!

Thank you!!!

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A few tips to add to the previous helpful posts:

1) Use a flat thin (~1” x 5”) flexible plastic strip (cut from a plastic disposable food container) to jimmy the microwave door open.

2) Use a thin screwdriver or stiff metal wire (e.g., from a wire clothes hanger) to pop the trim screw covers (if you have them) from the other side so as to not scratch the pop-on covers.

3) Keep the microwave level when moving it, so the broken cam piece doesn't get lost under the microwave.

4) Use a Torx security T15 bit to open the case.

5) Use a minimum 1 inch #4-40 screw and nut. It will be easier if the screw is 1.25" or 1.5".

6) Put a tooth/serrated washer before the nut to prevent loosening. I did it the first time without the washer and the screw loosened, the post got wobbly, and the plastic lever popped out after 8 months. So I put a tooth washer in the second time.

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My GE profile microwave suffered the same fate. The ridiculously flimsy post had snapped off, but I was able to repair it with these instructions and a #4-40 1.25 inch screw and nut. It took me a while to figure out how to put the cam piece back on, but I got there eventually. Thanks to all of you who posted information about this fix!! It was very helpful.

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Emma we are having the same problem. Do you have pictures?

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It’s hard to see, but if you zoom in, you may be able to get the gist of it

Block Image

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It is late. If the light stays on, will it cause a fire?

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I had this problem with a GE Profile microwave model PEB7227SL1SS.

I did what was described in the other answers, and I also found this video of the exact repair I needed:

https://youtu.be/uNMXgNJgo8o

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If you make this repair, your microwave will be as good as new. But, in my experience a new microwave will break in a little over 12 months. So, I recommend you reinforce the peg with a nut and bolt before you put it all back together.

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The plastic piece that pushes the latch to open the door is broken. I have had the same thing happen. The piece has a plastic post that’s about a 1/4” in diameter and this pin/post pushes the latch up to clear the holes to open the door. This piece seems surprisingly weak comparing to the force it takes to overcome the spring load. You have to take the main covering apart to get to the part. You will need to replace the part. On the same plastic is an electrical switch mounted that gets activated when the door is open and stops the glass dish rotating inside. Because the switch doesn’t get triggered the dish continues to spin even when the microwave is not on.

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Hey, use a piece or cardboard to release the latch by sliding it in the door and raising it up. Next, take out the 4 screws around the cabinate case. There will be 4-6 screws on the microwave mount to the cabinet, remove them. Take the microwave out (unplug it) and remove the screws to the outer casing. Once that is done you will probably need to replace the “board latch”. There is a piece of plastic the door switch it mounted on that probably snapped off.

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I suffered the same problem this morning and I am glad I found this site. I couldn’t jimmy the door latches open with cardboard, but a piece from a plastic milk carton was thin and flexible enough, but strong enough to do the job. I took the cover off and located the problem. My little post was still partially attached, so nothing had fallen out and it wasn’t obvious where the issue was. I shut the door and worked the latch and could see the cam mechanism just flexing out of the way. I decided to pull the plastic assembly out of the unit by detaching the wires (take pictures!) and removing two screws. With the piece out I could see that the hole where everyone runs the screw was partially blocked by a small stiffening rib in the casting. I used a Dremel tool to remove just enough of this to allow a machine bolt head to sit perfectly flat. I found that a number 8 machine screw was a perfect fit for the diameter of the hole in the broken peg. I inserted the screw, slipped the peg over it, installed the cam mechanism on the peg followed by a washer and two nuts (jammed against each other to prevent any slippage and with a drop of blue LockTite). Reassembled and I am back in business.

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All,

This happened to me yesterday, I got the microwave out of the surround got the bottom off, found the piece, but not exactly sure where it goes back to. Mine has a plastic piece that sort of swivels when the button is pushed. I dont see anything where this piece goes. on a side note not only did the little “peg” fall out, there is another piece that came out that has a hole about the size of the peg in it. I am guessing that peg and this piece fit together. My question is this. Do I need to take the door off, the whole case of the microwave? Thank you very much.

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It's been a while since I was in there, but I think what you need to try to do is take your clues from the button that you push in from the front, and the latches that you have to get to go up to unlatch the door. Play with the latches and see what moves, and play with the button and see what moves. The little intermediate part has to be between the button and the latch mechanism. There will be a little hole the size of the hole in the peg that broke off that will give you a clue as to where the peg has to get reattached. Good luck. You can also look up the parts diagram to help.

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You're close...you will need to remove the metal cover held on by Torx head screws. Once you have that off the place where the peg broke off will become obvious and the fix will be easy to understand. Do not take off the door...and you didn't need to take off the bottom although that did allow you to find the broken peg and plastic cam.

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same problem just happened to mine, have everything disassemble but having difficulty figuring out how to put the cam back in place, please can anyone post some pictures? Thanks!!

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Do the bolt/washer/nut combination need to be stainless?

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Add me to the list of the GE Profile Microwave lever switch / board latch failure club. This site was helpful in repairing the faulty GE design. With some many documented failures of the same mechanism, it would seem that a product recall was in order.

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So I was able to fix the door mechanism following the directions above. Thank you. However when it is plugged back in, the dish continues to rotate even when not started. Any ideas?

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There's a number of switches on the black plastic latch board where the cam attaches. One of those switches I believe is an interlock for the turntable. You'll need to take the cover off again and make sure that one of those switches isn't closed when it should be open.

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I have the exact same problem, and I cannot figure it out for the life of me. It looks like I may need to buy a new microwave after-all.

I am confident the cam is in correctly, the only thing I can think of is the switch on the top side went bad and I need to replace it, because I have tried every other option

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Anyone have a picture if how the cam goes on the plastic part that breaks off?

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Had the same problem, the above fix worked perfectly. One comment after you take the screws out for the outside cover, just slide the cover backward for removal. The front of the cover seats into a grove that goes up the sides and across the top.

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I agree with James Hollister . In my case the hinge axel didn’t break. I took the dumb thing apart cleaned it put it back together and it worked. Then it started acting up again, I had to slightly lift the door and the it worked again. Now several months later it works like new. Go figure.

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ltlbenn will be eternally grateful.
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