The GE Profile Tri-Temp is a free-standing water dispenser with an integrated chilled compartment.

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Dispenser freezes the water in the reservoir

The cold water slows and then stops as a block of ice forms in the inside of the dispenser. In removing a panel on the rear that has 4 screws, I see on either side of the unit there are rheostats with an adjusting screw. What is needed?

Model Number GXCF25FBS

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Would you give us a model number. Can you take a photo of the rheostats and upload it. I'm having a hard time finding a service model and the owners manual is worthless.

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I have the same problem as the one posted here, but I have no thermostats to tinker with. Any other suggestions?

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You have one somewhere, these things have to be able to tell the temperature or they would just stay on all the time.

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I spent a good deal of time tinkering with the thermostats to little effect. The water did't freeze as quickly, but it still froze when turned completely down or any position in between.

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so you have faulty thermostats??

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Getting service information on this is next to impossible. The freezing could be caused by a loss of freon, a bad thermostat, to cold of ambient temperature and may simply need to adjust the thermostat. Without a picture it's hard to tell. I would start by turning the adjustment to the right. Use a Sharpie to mark the current position so you have a reference point. If this fails try it the other direction.

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geez, meyer - you know something about everything, don't you? +

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remac - just basic refrigeration, the principles the same on home cooling, auto cooling or your refrigerator. Expansion and compression of gas. Boyles laws.

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Bingo an simple fix Thx Mayer

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I had the same problem with my GE Profile water cooler - here's what I did:

Please read completely first before attempting!

Unplug from outlet.

When the bottle is empty, remove it. Twist the plastic collar that the bottle rests on about 1/2" and lift up and off. I found a block of ice completely choking off flow of cold water out of the reservoir and reducing flow to the others. This points to a faulty cold water thermostat.

Operate each dispenser handle to help empty the reservoirs.

Optional: This can be an excellent time to clean and descale the reservoir, tubes and valves. Bring the cooler outdoors, and remove the (2) screws securing the safety strap on the right-rear side - midway up. Unscrew the plastic cap, and the remaining water in the reservoirs immediately begin to drain completely. Replace the cap. Mix up a gallon vinegar & water (1 qt. vinegar to 3 qts. water). Pour directly into top to fill the stainless reservoir completely. Open each handle until water begins to flow. Let the vinegar an water descale the internal parts, valves and reservoirs for 30 - 60 minutes. Empty as described above and repeat. At this point, scale & mineral deposits should be minimal. You can either flush with 2 or more gallons of clean, warm water or disinfect by filling with a 10% bleach & water solution and it soak for 15 minutes, first. Operate the handles to flush and then remove the cap again to drain completely. Replace the cap & safety strap.

Remove the condenser coil (black grate) supporting screws and gently finesse the coil away from the unit enough to allow access to the top rear plate (be extra careful not to crush or otherwise damage the lines that supply this coil). Remove the screws securing the plate and remove it.

You will see (2) adjustable thermostats. The one on the left is for cooling and should have a the sensor or capillary tube running from it to under the Styrofoam insulation. The thermostat on the right is for heating and is not a concern (unless you are having issues with hot water). You may try adjusting the thermostat with a straight blade screw driver - twisting CCW lowers the temperature and CW increases temperature. If yours is like mine, it didn't help.

Remove the top plastic cover of the cooler.

You should now see the cold water reservoir wrapped in white Styrofoam insulation. Side and bottom seams are seal with wide, gray foam tape under a thin plastic tape. The thin tape will require a razor knife to cut and the then it and the gray foam tape can be pulled off.

Next, carefully clip the plastic ties that secure the rubber tube to the stainless tube at the top of the reservoir. Do not cut the rubber tube! You may have better luck using a pair of pliers and tightly gripping the tie mechanism and twisting to stretch & break away.

Gently remove the two half side sections of Styrofoam around the reservoir. Minimize disturbing the copper lines that extend out from the Styrofoam insulation. The sensor tube from the cold thermostat can be removed from the reservoir (save the white plastic sleeve and the curved copper sleeve over it) as they will be needed to be installed on the replacement thermostat. Both will slip off easily once hanging free. Remove the (2) thermostat support screws to allow the thermostat to hang free from the frame. The thermostat itself has just (2) connections - it does not matter which wire goes where - they can be pulled off the switch by hand.

I tested my thermostat by placing the end into the freezer and checking with a meter to determine when it would open (cold enough) and close (getting warmer). Typically, about 10 degrees between the two (35 and 45 degrees) is when it should open & close. Mine did not work this way and would stay closed too long (freezing the water) and open only briefly - to close again (never giving the ice time to thaw).

The thermostat used in the cooler is not directly replaceable by GE. GE had been sending the entire cooler to their vendor for warranty repair (hence no real replacement parts or schematics, etc. from GE). What is needed though is called a "beverage thermostat". Many HVAC/R supply houses sell only those with ridiculously long sensing tubes (8 feet!) compared to the 24 inch style installed in the water cooler. I found a great replacement with a 30 inch sensing tube for just $10 + $5 shipping (you can find them on eBay for $20 - $30 and up). Anyway, here's the info from my shopping cart at http://www.zorotools.com

Zoro Item # G0446564

Product name: Water Cooler Replacement Parts and Repair Kits

Description: Cold Control Thermostat

Unit Price: $10.20

If the link above dies, it is called an Elkay 31513C

The mounting holes are the same, the temperature adjustment is in the same place and has same orientation for increasing / decreasing the temperature. There are only (2) terminals for wiring (as mentioned above, there are only 2 wires and it doesn't matter which goes where) and the wires can be slipped on like the old thermostat; no cutting splicing, etc.

Carefully install the the sensor as the original. Be careful NOT to make sharp bends in the sensor tube. As the name implies, it is a hollow tube - sharp bends and crushing will cause it to fail instantly. The other copper tubes contain refrigerant gas. Treat them the same - bends, crushing and allowing gas to escape will cause it to fail.

Reassemble. Do not forget to install new ties to secure the rubber tube to the stainless reservoir tube. You can use duct tape if you do not have foam tape.

You may want to leave the bottle off and fill the reservoir manually. Doing so allows access to view the cold water reservoir so that you can adjust the thermostat so that ice does not form to the point of blocking water flow. Some ice is GOOD to keep water refreshingly cold, but should never restrict flow.

I hope this works as well for you as it did for me! Good luck!

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Hi Rob,

The two thermostats on my dispenser are rear facing. The mounting screws and the opening in the cabinet to access the temperature adjustment screw will become visible only after removing the top - rear, flat (black) protective plastic cover. The side "handholds" in the dispenser cabinet are at about the same height as the thermostats in question.

Facing the rear of the dispenser, the COLD thermostat is on the LEFT. The sensor tube runs between it and the top reservoir - slipped between the 2 piece styrofoam insulator and the stainless steel reservoir. The HOT thermostat is on the RIGHT. The sensor tube runs between it and the lower hot reservoir with heating elements. Once you have replaced the cold thermostat assembly - you might want to cut slots the the edge of the flat plastic protective cover so that you can make easy adjustments to the thermostats without the need for partial disassembly of the rear of the dispenser.

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I but bet on the thermostat.

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It's a faulty design to begin with. I have a three door model Profile, with the freezer in the bottom drawer. I had the repairman out when it was under warranty (bought it about three years ago) and he just defrosted everything and tried the "extra insulation" trick and a new temp sensor. Still froze up.

I had a friend with an earlier GE. His froze up chronically.

I will say, I'd rather have a cold fridge and freezer and a water problem than a POS Maytag that had a failed compressor after two years from purchase.

That said, I'd also rather have filtered tap water dispensed at the fridge than a worthless frozen dispenser that requires constant service. So does anyone know of a "bypass kit" for the water reservoir tank that freezes? Maybe I need to just make a kit to do that.

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The best thing I did was to buy a 24 hour timer for 7 dollars from home depot and fixed it with the cooler cable which shuts down the cooler every half hour and my icing problem is resolved.

zubair

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I had a timer and put it on and it is working great. Thank you for your advice. I don't have a handyman, so this was the best advice I could get!

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Dear enro there are 2 button on back side of cool plz check them they are on or off green one is for cold and red or brown is for hot .

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I had this problem too. Instead of taking the thing apart, I found a suitable solution using a programmable timer:

Home Depot programmable timer

Set up six events on the timer (all days) . Each event should be "on" for one and a half hours and "off" for two and a half hours. For example here's how I have it set:

Event. On. Off

1. 5am. 6:30am

2. 9am. 10:30am

3. 1pm 2:30 pm

4. 5pm. 6:30pm

5. 9pm. 10:30pm

6. 1am. 2:30am

I found that I have cold water all day long without freezing with this method. It probably saves on power too. The caveat is you can't count on having piping hot water throughout the day- only in half hour spurts six times a day. But you can at least tweak the on and off times accordingly to get hot water at the times of days you usually need it.

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Roger ramsey will be eternally grateful.
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