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Xbox One controller introduced in 2016 with the launch of the Xbox One S and adds Bluetooth support for Windows 10. This controller is the current mainstream controller sold by Microsoft. This controller fixes many of the design flaws found on Model 1537/1697 controllers and is much more reliable.

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Why are my triggers constantly activated?

When I took apart my controller, my goal was to fix the clicking sound one of my triggers was causing. Fast forward a few days later, I fixed the clicking sound after doing a complete disassembly, and when I put the back panel on my controller, it presses the triggers down, I assume moving the magnet closer to the hall effect sensor.

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Everything else works superb, except for the triggers.

Is there any way I could fix this? I’ve tried taking the bumpers off and on, tried forcing it back, plugged it into my computer and gently put the back panel on, and I do not see a visible way to adjust the magnets.

This is also my first time doing too, so I guess I’m making progress.

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1 Answer

Chosen Solution

I’m working on a fix for the loose magnet issue since it happened to mine a few days ago. That said I need to test it and see how it holds up, but I think it’ll fix the problem. I have an extra frame, so I have no reservations trying to come up with fix for the problem.

It may be possible to realign the magnet. The way these are assembled is the magnet is only secured with double sided tape, which is prone to failure within ~18 months on the modern ones and typically years on older controllers. It is possible to fix it, but if you adjust the magnet and misalign it, you may never get it working right again; only do this if you can do it right. If it works but is loose, tacking it down with glue on the 1708 or glue and heatshrink on the 1537/1697 will keep the magnets in place again.

The problem you’re running into is either caused by the alignment of the magnet or the discrete components on the secondary board that are below the magnet that control LT and RT. The mechanism used my Microsoft doesn’t rely on carbon pads like the Sony controllers. I’ve posted a picture of the mechanism for you to see it:

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Depending on if you are having issues with LT/RT or both, you will need to replace a few different components. The component marked 304 is the same on both sides, but the SMD caps and resistors vary based on which side needs repair. You will need to determine which ones you need for the side you are repairing.

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Comments:

Sorry for a weeks late reply but then again I had to focus a little more on school than I was:

So is there a way I could check for magnet misalignment? I'm looking at my controller now disassembled again and the magnet appears to be in the same spot, and I notice that there's a little metal piece on the top of the left stick magnet, which is absent on the right stick (which is shown in the picture).

Also would these SMD caps and resistors be on the bottom of the board that is on the top (implying that I would have to desolder the wires to take a look at the bottom of the top board). Also, could it be possible that the way I resoldered could've broken something? Everything else seems to communicate just fine except for the triggers.

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It's fine. Things happen and all that matters is you came back.

The SMD parts are over the magnet above the area in the magnet on my photo; I marked it up. The clue for a potential misalignment is issues like yours. It can be adjusted, but it isn't an easy job. You need to work with it carefully especially if it isn't a simple tack down like the example 1708 I took a photo with. Take as much as time as you need to get it right or it's likely you will get it wrong.

The part you're asking about is the trigger vibrator I assume? I had to resolder it and it's kind of random how the final placement of that part of it is; it self-corrects when you use the controller so I'm not concerned about it.

The 1708 controller is so much more reliable than the 1537/1697 will ever be. I have never seen a serious issue that's well documented yet; just a few one-offs.

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Just a quick little update on my issue:

When I reassembled the controller, the same thing happened where the trigger would look like it's being pressed down, so what I did was pull the left trigger forward as hard as I could and it mysteriously fixed the issue. The right trigger was still causing me problems and I assume is because of the snapped piece of plastic holding the trigger on the mid frame assembly. What I believe now is the fact that nothing is pushing the trigger forward, so I'll just have to order a new one once I get enough money for it. I really appreciate the help and I feel like I have a better understanding on how these controllers work in case I ever have a similar problem like this in the future. Cheers.

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Keep it as a parts controller if it's frame damage. Lots of good parts on that controller.

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