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Xbox One controller introduced in 2016 with the launch of the Xbox One S and adds Bluetooth support for Windows 10. This controller is the current mainstream controller sold by Microsoft. This controller fixes many of the design flaws found on Model 1537/1697 controllers and is much more reliable.

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Right bumper only works when pressed very firmly

So the problem that I am having with my controller is this. When I depress the right bumper like I normally would it doesn’t seem to work. When I say “normal” my finger typically rests on the outer 50% of the bumper and typically no further towards the midline of the controller. Only when I press it very firmly is the signal then conveyed to the Xbox. In comparison, by pressing down the left bumper on either of the very edges (as well as the middle) the signal is properly conveyed as it should be with just the normal amount of pressure required to depress the bumper. If I had to estimate I would say that it requires roughly 3 times the pressing force to activate the signal from the right bumper in comparison to the left.

At this point I am past my warranty and have already decided to take the controller apart to see if I could locate the problem myself. The levers themelves leading to the tactile switches look to be identical on either side leading me to believe that they are not responsible for the issue. My question then becomes what is the likliehood that it is the tactile switch itself that is the problem? Is there a possibility it is anything else that could be the culprit? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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I had this problem too on the 1708. The single piece of plastic that makes up the bumper was fully intact. I did rub the sensor quite a bit with rubbing alcohol on a q-tip, press the bumper a bunch, and let it dry for a couple days WITHOUT the battery attached.

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It’s happening with my series 2 elite controller it’s so annoying and during this quarantine I can’t go to game stop to get a replacement

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Same i dont know how to take it apart or fix this and i mostly play gta which is heavily reliant on rb. I thought microsoft would fix the bumpers on the elite series 2 but they dont seem to care

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Yes it is very annoying as I too play gta. It’s one of my main games to be honest and it’s so annoying and difficult having to put extreme pressure on the bumper when your trying to drive and throw sticky bombs etc.

I may take it to a repair shop near me soon when it re-opens and if they can fix it I will let this small group know if they still want to know.

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Hi @Jim Thomson did you have to take the controller apart to get to the sensor to apply the rubbing alcohol?

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6 Answers

Chosen Solution

Your Problem is almost Certainly A Broken Bumper assembly. The only thing that is unfortunate is that the 1708 only technically has 1 Bumper assembly for Both buttons, as they are connected together by a thin plastic piece. (it’s a pretty crappy design too, they rely on bending of the plastic for the button’s behavior.)

I’ve gone through 2 assemblies already (just installed my 3rd) as I use RB heavily in a few games.

The first time it happened when I opened the controller I didn’t notice that the button assembly was cracked on the cross connecting piece that’s hidden underneath the center retaining clip (the part with the Bluetooth button hole in it). At a glace it all looked good but the button still felt squishy and required a hard press to activate and didn’t seem to return/click like the left one.

You say you already opened the controller? I’d carefully pop off the center piece. if you haven’t already And check the whole assembly for fatigue, or cracks. There are 2 small pegs holding in on that would be on the Front of the controller. you just have to lightly lift the center piece off the 2 small pegs

The odds of the tactile switch being bad are pretty slim, but I suppose it could happen. But honestly, all the plastic pieces have more of a chance of being broken than anything else.

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The 1697 was first to have it and it was far worse then the 1708 part by far - it sucks but if I have to choose between next to no support on the 1697 or a good amount on the 1708 I'm taking the 1708. The parts from China helped on the 1697, but not much. The Chinese 1708 parts are probably significantly better.

The 1537 is the worst offender for mechanical failure - outside of one, I have never seen a 1708 with component failure. I'm not concerned about the warranty since I usually get them broken/cheap enough I don't care and I can do the repairs myself.

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Sorry, what’s a button assembly? Is it where the 2 pegs are, that hold the centre piece in by any chance? I’m having the exact same trouble (having to put a lot of pressure on RB to get it to work) and I too am out of warranty and have already taken the controller apart in an attempt to repair the RB.

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Probably food stuck in it

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The switch may be broken. Typically a broken button on a controller causes it to only function when pressed extremely hardly. Try to take it apart and compare both bumpers and see if there is anything different with the non-functional one.

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Maybe it’ll be useful to someone googling this but I had the exact same problem and I fixed it the same way we fix drifting joy-cons : I blasted contact cleaner inside the pad by opening the right cover. Put a good amount of it inside and let it dry for a minute or two. It worked perfectly and I’m now able to use a pad I didn’t use for two years (I used to play to Dark Souls 3 with it, the right bumper is essential to this game).

I used WD-40 contact cleaner by the way.

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Never took apart an Xbox Controller but switch bumpers when taking it apart and see if it fixes it, if so then buy a new one.

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The parts on controllers wear out with use they are pretty easy to strip down and you can get replacement parts on Ebay for pennies things like headphone Jack's just pop out and pop the new one in . you do need some torx screwdrivers something like a t5 t,6, t7 but that's about it

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I’m having the same problem, on a *brand new* controller I ordered from Microsoft’s design workshop, meaning I paid extra for a brand new faulty controller. The last controller I took apart myself and rebuilt was from a PS2 about 15 years ago. I know nothing about the inner workings of modern controllers. My question to those who have repaired their own: is this something that can be fixed with basic tools just by following instructions? Or should I be contacting Microsoft to complain about it?

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