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Floor lamps are lights that sit on the floor. They are not table lamps, which are designed to sit on tables. Floor lamps are usually taller than table lamps.

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Threading the new cord through the lamp

I've tried to thread the new cord through the lamp (stand is in 3 pieces that screw together). Taping the end doesn't seem to help as it must go through a very tight piece at the very top of each section. Is there another trick for this?

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Unscrew each section of the lamp then run your plug wire through it; screw it back on then go to the next section and repeat the process

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My son is making a bed side lamp from copper pipe pieces which has a few ( 5) turns.. they are battling to get the cord thru it.. please urgent help. Tx u

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Ideally the threading should done before assembly but if that's not possible then try this: Use a metal nut or, better still, make a small lead weight to suit. Tie to a piece of cotton and you can jiggle the pipework around as the weight makes it way down the tube. Tie a piece of string or fishing line to the end of the cotton and pull through. Tie or tape your flex to the string - pull through -job done!

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Please note that some lamps that are made in sections have very small wireways at both ends of the tube and have large spaces between these holes. It is almost impossible to thread anything larger than a standard 18-2 SPT1 wire through them. If you take then apart (unscrew them) you will have better luck getting the wire through the holes.

It is necessary to fully disassemble the lamp to feed the wire from the bottom of the lamp. Use a wire (thin but stiff) inserted from the top of each section downward and through the bottom hole. Strip a section of both conductors to allow you to attach the copper stranded wire to the stiff guide wire and pull it through. Do this for each section untill you reach the bulb holder. Cut off the stripped section that you used to pull the cord through and then correctly connect the lamp holder. If there is space make sure you use an Underwriters Knot to prevent tension from being applied to the lamp holder connections when you reassemble the lamp or when the cord is pulled from the bottom of the lamp.

Reassemble the lamp from the top down, Please note that you do not want to simply turn each section into the other as this will twist the wire and weaken it. If it takes 6 complete rotations of the section to fully thread into the section above... rotate the section six turns in the opposite direction before screwing it in. This will prevent the cord from being twisted. Pull the cord tight between sections. Continue untill fully assembled.

Replace any busing where the cord goes through the lamp base as the sharp metal can cut the wire over time.

Attach the plug at the end.

Using a continuity tester ... test for continuity and for switch functionality.

Insert the bulb, any safety covers.

Not holding the lamp... Plug it in. Turn it on.

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I had a problem as my old standard lamp or floor lamp was narrow inside so I used a good length of net curtain wire (white plastic with thin coiled wire inside,) and tied the end of the brown wire to it with black gaffer tape (not much, fed it into lamp and pulled it all through. (tip it up and the net wire falls out the bottom.) Then I did the same with the blue wire. Did not take long at all. Without the net wire it would have been impossible.

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You need an electricians Fish Tape. The wire ( being stiff) is fed through first and the wire attached. Then you just pull it back out, dragging the new wire. Here's what it looks like: http://www.amazon.com/GB-EFT-22P-Cable-2...

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This is an existing wall -mounted bed lamp with 2 bends from entry to socket. The lampholder needs to be replaced. I need to ull some existing wire about 2 inches so the holder ccan be replaced and reattached,

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if you get some thin wire out of your local diy store and coil the end of the wire round cable then tape around coil then put wire through hole then pull

good luck

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not enough room to put anything around the existing cable

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I was too cheap to buy Electrician's Fish Tape, so I looked around the house to see if anything was thin, strong & long enough. Lo & behold, the dreaded dry cleaning wire coat hanger was perfect. I straightened it out, used pliers to make a really tight hook & pulled it through in a matter of seconds. Because I am worried that I might have damaged the new cord, I will cut the top of the cord off.

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If the lamp (particularly floor lamps) still has the old cord, cut off the plug on the old cord and splice/tape the new cord to the old cord together. (Don’t put so much tape that it won’t fit through the existing hole.) Then pull the cord all the way through the lamp until the new cord is at the top & remove the old cord—easiest way I know to do it. And I learned the hard way. Also, if you can’t understand why you can’t get a new cord into just a tabletop lamp, most new cords are wider so just look for the SPT-1 for a standard lamp. I struggled with this when I was trying to teach myself in the beginning and I thought I was just doing it wrong. Here is a better”technical” definition I found….it mentions the thickness of the wires. 18/2, SPT-1 wire has an insulation thickness of .030″ and 18/2, SPT-2 has insulation that is .045″ thick. Because of the thicker insulation, SPT-2 wire has a higher maximum amp rating than SPT-1, which means it can power more lights and decorations. 18/2, SPT-1 is rated at 7 amps and 18/2, SPT-2 is rated at 10 amps.

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I’ve put all three sections of pole together pulling cord through. I then tried to attach the 4 assembled poles to the bas. The base is very heavy and the male end (I think)doesn’t screw into the receptacle and doesn’t go through the “pretty “ top of the base to the underside where it is supposed to be tightened by a nut . I don’t know what to do, I really like the lamp but if I can’t get it all the way securely together I’ll have to return it and I really don’t want to do that. Can you help me please to conquer this step in the process. Thanks. Eileen

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