lid lock bypass procedure

Amana top load washer has a 4 wire lock switch. I connect blue & white wires it will start to fill then stops & red lock light starts blinking ,then fill light blinks , that is all it does.

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I bought new switch & latch still not working

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It will do this if the WATER to the washer is turned OFF, or if there's no water pressure; there's a pressure-activated switch inside the washer. Check your supply water pressure, or turn the water ON!

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Do I recommend it? NO.

The lid lock it to prevent injury to the people near the washer, as without it stopping the machine, the agitator will turn with the lid open.

So.

If you will open the top up, you should see the lid switch, and you should see the electric wires attached to it.

With the machine unplugged, you can disconnect the wires to the lid switch and attach them to themselves, and the lid switch will then be by-passed.

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Mayer, Just for my on knowledge, you recommend that Terry attach the 4 wires of his Lid Lock to themselves? The "Positive" from the control board to the Electro Magnet relay, the Negative for the Relay, The sensor wire from the control board and the sensor return.. All attached to themselves? What's gonna happen when he plugs the machine back in?

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Silentthunder38 Please feel free to write a better answer. Your the one that described wiring to short it out.

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What wire connect to what to bypass?

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Mr. Mayer, Please clarify for me the "attach them back to themselves". I am unclear exactly how to do this.

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I would really need to know the specific machine and be able to find a diagram of the wiring to give you a correct answer. Not all machines have the same colored wires. Best to identify wires with a multimeter.

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I have a Whirpool with the 4 wire switch lock. I connected the blue and white wires started a load, and waited until the lid lock red light came on. At that point the lid light makes a clicking noise. That's when I connect the red wire to the blue and white wires and wash cycle begin. Was able to wash.

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I had the same problem with my Kenmore washer I took the same steps with the wires and it worked perfectly. Thank you for your post

Sincerely Lancaster Ohio

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What about the yellow wire and where did you cut them at under the lid or in the control panel.

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I cut from the control panel

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I tried this on my Roper. It seemed to work until it got to the final spin. The lid lock light started flashing again and I have been unable to figure out how to spin the clothes.

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Even AFTER you've installed a new switch and latch, it will still do this if the WATER to the washer is turned OFF, or if there's not enough water pressure; there's a pressure-activated switch inside the washer that won't lock the door until it senses water pressure to the washer.

Check your supply water pressure, or even better, turn the water ON! You'll either be rewarded or know there's something else wrong deeper inside the machine.

Also, depending on the Amana model, this switch can have 2, 3, or 4 wires, and CANNOT BE BYPASSED BY "HOT WIRING A COUPLE OF WIRES TOGETHER" the way you could with the older washers where the switch was a simple on/off job.

These new ones have a sensor back inside the body with the controls, and if the sensor's not happy, the washer doesn't turn on.

Turn the water on, if it doesn't work, replace the switch and latch assembly, if it still doesn't work, take it to the shop. They have a tester there that gives the technician the error code he needs to fix the machine. Yeah, just like computers!

Give me a 10-year-old, non-computerized Whirlpool or Maytag any day!

Aloha, Tim........

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I have 3 wires red,blue,white what connects to what

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I tried it five times on my 4-wire system just as described. No matter what I did it would not work now I have to buy a new Switch

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The red and white wires are for the lid switch. The other two wires supply voltage to the coil that is also inside the switch. These are not as simple as twist together and go as in older machines.

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I have a Maytag Bravo Top Loader Washer MVWB835DW, and the lid locking mechanism has 6 wires with 2 wires connected to a tiny electrical motor that actuates the locking bar.  It wasn’t working so to work around it, I connected the white and blue wires together.  These 2 wires are the sensor that checks for the lid being closed.  Actually these wires are the common negative connection for the locking bar.  There is a magnetic continuity circuit check done with these 2 wires before anything else in the programming.  My machine has a “Sensor” light that illuminates when the connection is active, or when it thinks the lid is shut.  So to start with I connected the wires together.  Then there are 2 other wires, light blue and red that are not connected to the motor.  The light blue wire needs to be connected with the continuity wire (white and blue) to start with when I start the machine cycle.  The programming checks for this connection first.  After this check, the machine will activate the 2 wires connected to the tiny motor to actuate the locking bar.  Afterwards, the programming will look for the red wire connected to the continuity wire (white and blue).  So the work around goes like this.  Regardless of the wire color, connect the continuity wires together, and make those the common pole on a switch.  Then connect the lid lock open wire to the off pole of the switch and the lid lock closed wire to the on pole of the switch.  Under operation, start with the new switch in the off position, then start the machine wash cycle as you would normally do, wait a couple of seconds, and then hit new switch so that it is in the on position.

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