First Generation Electric Motorized Longboard released by Boosted, June 2014.

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Replace new battery in Boosted board 1 gen

Hi,

i have a boosted board first generation and my battery is dead. Can somebody explain how i can replace the batteries and the board will work later on :)

I went to an batterie shop and they told me that the batteries are broke for sure they got new batteries but they said it will not work because of the BMS (battery management system)

So my question is: what batteries should i buy which tools do i need and how can i make my boosted board work again. If i charge it now it only runns for 2-3 minutes and then dead :(

the battery shop already took the batteries out from the board and the would make a new akku for me but i also would try it on my own

i would highly appriciate if somebody can help me to get my board fixed, i am from central europe and the shipping to USA would cost me 200 USD. So i would rather try it on my own before sending it to boosted for 200 usd and then pay additional for the repair work

thank you all for any hints

BR

Simon

Answered! View the answer I have this problem too

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Do you still have the BMS?

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where can i find the bms? now i just took the old batteries out,

i have some pictures how it looks like now

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Hey guys, has anybody was able to replace the batteries? and what happened?

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You will need to replace the dead 12S1P pack of A123 26650 cells with new ones by spot welding a new pack together.

Here's a battery diagram.

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just replaycing the battery pack? are you sure there will be no problem with the bms?

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did you do it before?

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Hi,

I have exactly the same problem on my boosted board v1 (I live in Europe too). I will have to disassemble the battery pack and make a new one. Is it difficult to assemble the new battery pack with the bms ? Thanks so much for your answer. Stephane

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Yes it is extremely difficult. You will need some quite expensive tools to properly put together a identical pack. You will need capacitive discharge spot welder for battery welding, battery nickel tabs preferibly, .25mm or larger and 12 A123 cells. Dissassembling the battery is dangerous enough considering its high voltage and intricate design.

I'd suggest either sending it back to Boosted for repair or finding a local battery shop that knows what they are doing.

I would offer to help, but I am in the USA.

by

Hi,

Yes, I think I will send it back to Boosted for repair. I have to find a company that accepts to transport dangerous products (class 9 dangerous products). Not easy to find ! Maybe Fedex or DHL. Thanks very much for your answer

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Anyone got any updates removing the old battery completely?

Following the guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7LOwbEp... , was able to strap a secondary battery to the board, works; but the old battery is dead weight yet is still needed by the BMS.

I assume there is a message being sent back to the motor circuit.

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What are you trying to do? Is your original battery dead?

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Replace the old battery completely. Sadly made a 10S battery pack: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-CZIb7...

The BMS will flash critical red and the remote will beep.

Saw your diagram, does the battery need to soldered to the BMS like along C1, C2 ? Exactly like the diagram? And it worked for you?

by

@samrad as I'm trying to do the same thing as you, I did a bit of searching - based on most BMS diagram, you have to wire-in all of the balancing point.

Similar to this:

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/kxQAAOSwb...

Except the c1,c2, c3, etc. represent your cells

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I've also got a dead v1 and thinking of building a new battery pack for it. I'm pretty new to this kind of work. If I build a new battery pack, and plan to use the existing v1 BMS board, will I need to balance the battery pack separately, or can I let the v1 BMS do that for me?

Is it reasonable to expect that I would just need to buy 12 batteries, build the pack, solder them back onto the existing v1 BMS and be good to go? What else should I be thinking of?

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@TeckniX

I did in fact end up making the pack with a123 cells and a cheap spot welder. It wasn't easy and sadly a short happened and might have fried my BMS. Be smart in how you assemble the pack and make those folded nickle/copper tabs between the cells. If I were to smart again, I would do in series of 4 and then group.

Now my BMS just flashes red and I'm not sure it's even charging the new pack. Will check and report back.

@aaronv

Most of the guides online are about making an extra 10cell pack you charge with an iCharger and carry around as dead weight, tapping into parallel to the existing v1 whether it holds a charge or not. This worked. Design a good system for attaching it. I had it in a shoulder bag so I could shread still (good times ;_;). didn't solve the long wires though.

Ripping apart to hastly the v1 battery was a mistake. It's very sealed and you can damage easily. Take photos.

Sadly now I have nothing working, a useless 10pack that hasnt been used in months.

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Simon B will be eternally grateful.
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