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Those cylinders at the end of cables break off sometimes. Is there some cheap way to replace it? I tried tying it around a little metal 'wheel'. That seems to work. But might be too big to fit in some brake levers.
Is this a good question?
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As much as I loathe the idea of replacing the brake cable because the swaged end is mangled, I think it's the right thing to do (and I work in a bike shop that specializes in used bicycles and vintage repair, I'm not one of the new breed who can;t overhaul a 3-speed hub). It's a very inexpensive part, five bucks tops; and the old brake cable is of course re-purposeable for any number of things.
There is nothing on a bicycle that's complicated. Almost every single part can be overhauled or rebuilt.
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Nicely answered. I actually agree with you, but have answered because Tom wants to know if it's possible.... Expert opinion is valuable to ifixit, +
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this is sort of what i meant-it refers to a copper end stop/cap-
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.c...
if you have a local shop they are usually pretty handy and will know if they have something like it which will take the pressure of the brakes....and at pennies... got to be worth a quick phone call.
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Those should work fine +
If i would have a proper tool, i would go for them. But I think a new cable is the most efficient option.
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The question was make not replace!
Clean the cable well. Solder won’t stick to dirt or oil. Drill a hole in the side of the block of wood for the cable — 5/64. Drill a hole down to intersect with the cable hole. Deep enough that the cable will be in the center of the barrel. Put some flux on the cable end. Heat it. Insert it in the cable side hole. Melt some solder and fill the top — barrel hole with solder . The wood may smoke and burn a bit. Not enough to worry. Let it cool. Cut the wood away with the saw. Shape the barrel to your liking with the file. That my friends is how it is done where there is no bicycle shop and no five dollars.
|———|—| | ASCII diagram
watch and learn: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XVC_A77...
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THAT's how to solve a problem! I had this whole process thought through in the same way, except the material for the mold. I kept thinking aluminum or other metal, and I don't have the machine tools on hand here to do that. So, wood (hardwood) is a counterintuitive but excellent idea. I'm going to try this!
I would say that a good thing would be to simply dip the iron into the mold and then just melt solder over the iron, which would melt into the mold. This avoids the mess of maintaining a hot crucible for melting the solder. You can also first "tin" the cable with flux-core solder.
There's more benefit to this than just five dollars. Cable and solder individually are relatively cheap and easy to find, but a bike shop is an elaboration that is far more scarce. The technique shown here uses discrete tools and so is a more sustainable concept. It's also wonderful STEM/STEAM learning. Any bike-based youth training system (e.g., Blackstone Bikes in Chicago) would do well to take advantage of this little trick.
It also just occurred to me that a plaster pouring mold might be another good material. You could make the mold with an existing nipple and the hole for the cable could be sawn in. This would make the mold reusable. I have not tried either the wood or plaster, but I intend to do so. If anyone tries this, please share your success/failure!
I found this question searching to see if there is a better option to the one I detailed above. I couldn't so I made a barrel myself with the wood and solder method. I used this method as a kid by force as we were on a farm a long way from anywhere. You will see how simple and fast this is. Here is a crude video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XVC_A77...
I was looking for a good way to form a new end with solder as well and came across this post. After reading all the ridiculous answers at the beginning, it was very refreshing to see an actual solution and answer to the question actually being asked. Thanks for the help dude. The wood block worked perfectly. All you other bozo's should take notes on how to actually write a useful response.
You can also use a potato for the mold use them as a crucible if you don't have one also.
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We are talking about the brakes here! This is what stops you. I know of no reliable way to replace the molded on end. Replace the cable they cost very little.
Well, if the question is "can" you. I guess the answer is yes you "can" . In an emergency, get you home situation you can tie a knot in the cable. You can even use a gear cable. Use the brakes with great care and replace with a proper cable when you get home. There are clamp on ends made for straddle cables for cantilevers and U brakes. Basically a cylinder with a hole and a set screw. Not very reliable, because the set screw squishes and damages the cable and it will eventually fail.
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Duh... There's a binding post screw that keeps the cable from slipping so, don't worry about the end caps having to fix the cable.
The purpose of the end cap is to prevent the cable from fraying.
Don't go to a chandlery for marine hardware - its much too heavy and probably too big for the cable.
Instead, try one these 3 things;
1) Go to bike store and ask for end cap. Usually free... Crimp it on with any old pair of pliers
2) Dip the end cable in a little epoxy of super glues (this is what I do).
3) Use a benzo torch to cut the cable or, even melt the end (My local bike shop does this -very slick!).
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Bicycle cable ends are available from you local bike shop, and online. They crimp on to prevent the cable end from fraying. I prefer using a plastic bead, like the kind associated with Mardi Gras.
Tools & supplies: Plastic beads, small butane torch (a butane lighter will do in a pinch), good wire cutter (preferably a bicycle specific one).
1. cut cable, so end is not frayed.
2. heat end of cable till it turns red.
3. slide/ melt the bead on.
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You can use a aluminum nail rivet to prevent the brake cable from fraying. Separate the rivet from the nail and slide it over the cable. Rivet works best to be crimped with a little squeeze with side cutters but not cutting into the cable. Rivets can be bought at home depot Lowe's hardware stores can be used for brake cables and derailleur's.
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go to the hardware store and get some cable crimps for connecting two cables.
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To add to what I said upthread, the "end"-- for that's what it's actually called, either Mountain or Road-- is actually a zinc alloy that is hot-poured and cast in place around the end of the cable. I've toyed with the idea of making my own (there are some odd, sui generis French brakes that take a specialized straddle wire) but at the end of the day, it's really a false economy.
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Dip the end in molten pot metal.
First, melt down an old pot.
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So, let's filter out all the people talking about the crimped-on end-cap at the wheel or derailleur end, not the factory swaged or hot-poured opposite end that holds the cable inside the shift or brake lever. And let's assume you've not got access to welding equipment. And let's finally note that some cables, such as Dura-Ace 9100 polymer coated ones, are NOT cheap, and all but that 1-2 cm of cable inside the shifter is in perfect condition and will last 10X as long as that last 1-2cm will. So being able to repair the end is actually pretty useful.
This is for SHIFTER cables, not brake cables. Do not attempt to jury-rig a repair like this on brake cables, your life is worth more than that.
If, like me, you've got Shimano shifters that put the shift cable through a tight-radius turn inside the shifter body and cause the cables to fail just downstream of the cable end, this is for you.
Step 1: make sure you've got an extra 1"+ of length on your shift cable. If it was trimmed and crimped right next to the clamp bolt on the derailleur, go back in time and re-do the cut further away from the bolt this time. If it's trimmed too close, it's game over for you unless you happen to have some extra length in your outer cables that you can shorten.
Step 2: pull the (broken or frayed) cable a few inches out of the shifter body. Trim it as close as possible to the original end, but where all the wires are intact.
Step 3: cut the head off a 10D nail or similar soft steel object with a similar diameter as the factory cable end. I used a hacksaw. Clean up the cut so it is square and flat.
Step 4: using a center punch, locate the center of the diameter of the nail or similar, and punch in a divot.
Step 5: drill a hole about 6-7 mm deep along the axis of the cut nail, using a drill bit that is slightly larger than the cable diameter. You need a set of drills including very small sizes to do this. A 1/16" drill is > 1.5mm and is too big, you need something closer to 1.1 mm for most shifter cables.
Step 6: using the off-cut factory end of the cable, cut the nail again at the correct length (to match the original end, probably ~4 mm long). The hole you just drilled should go clear through the off-cut piece.
Step 7: feed the cut end of the cable through the hole, exposing about 1mm of cable at the exit end. Using a vice or strong hands and vice grips, crimp the cut nail onto the cable. I'm a rock climber and used a big pair of vice grips with maximum force. If you don't have strong hands you'll have to use a vice.
Step 8: now, intentionally fray the protruding 1 mm of cable - separate the strands and bend them against the cut surface of the nail. This will increase the force required to pull the cable back through the crimp.
Step 9: re-seat the cable into the shifter, pull the slack to the derailleur, and pray to whatever divinity you like that the end still reaches the clamp bolt.
Step 10: re-adjust the derailleur cable at the barrel adjuster, and go for a ride.
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10 Comments
i think it's called a swage /suage? it is cramped on to stop line coming through?
try a going to a marine chandlery- we used to sell them for next to nothing-must be lots of chandlery places in holland! someone else may have a better fix though so i've posted as a comment.
by pollytintop
Excellent answer pollytintop. I was thinking in the same lines about the little round lead weights they crimp on fishing lines--same general principal. I believe you are correct however in that if you can find a marine unit small enough it would probably wear better.
by rj713
It is for stopping brake cable from slipping through. So indeed, it needs to be able to stand quite some tension without slipping. Did you guys get that? Will those crimps hold? I will try to get my hands on them and test it myself.
by Tom
The swages pollytintop recommends are used to keep mast and rigging up in saiboats and safety lines on all kinds of boats. Properly swaged they should hold just fine.
by rj713
just what i was going to say....
by pollytintop
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