Washer slowly fills with water while not in use, what is wrong?

Recently I noticed my washer will slowly fill with water when not in use. the problem seems to be intermitant and I think it could be mineral build up in the supply valve? Any suggestions would help.

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Dave, I replaced the water inlet valve and still doing it. Water slowly fills where you put detergent and then drips/runs down inside of washing machine on front seal and into basin. Appreciate any other ideas. Thanks, Curtis

by Curtis

bad inlet valve, or low water pressure can cause this

by Bob

Just put in brand new valve and water pressure is fine.

by Curtis

So still not sure of issue. Appears worse then with old valve.

by Curtis

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Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

Here's the part and where to get it: http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail...

I've used these people and they are fast and reliable.

They also carry a repair manual for it: http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail...

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+ Good stuff. I learned something today.

by David Hodson

+ Good research

by Taylor Arnicar

Thanks for the quick and quality help!

-Dave

by Dave H

Excellent research +

by rj713

same thing happened to mine because it was delivered in the winter

when they brought it in it was frozen.had to wait 15 minutes for it to thaw.then after 1 month it started to collect water in the tub.i turn the water off after i do the wash so that takes care of it until i replace the valve

by bob133

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This is a supplement, NOT a replacement to the well-researched and thorough answer from Mayer, above...

In my washing machine, the hard water deposits blocked up the inlet quite a bit, to the point where it appeared to be failing.

I bought a $10 bottle of CLR, or "Calcium/Lime/Rust," sold in a usually gray bottle and ran the roughly 1/4-gallon container through a warm cycle twice, half of the bottle each time. It cleared out the hard water, and the inlet ran well afterwards.

Twice a year, I use CLR the same way on my dishwasher and soak my shower head in it to remove minerals and hard water buildup. CLR is essential for anyone's cleaning "kit" where water is used-- the sink, bathtub, etc.

Remember, Meyer's post is VERY complete and *most likely* your problem with a slow inlet.

NOTE: On the first cycle, with the CLR in the clothing washer, let the water fill up and sit with water/CLR in it for at least a couple of hours. Also, CHECK YOUR MANUAL to make sure there isn't any reason NOT to use CLR on it... I can't think of any, but I'm not an expert on washing machines.

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the CLR suggestion seems to have worked for us.

== Update ==

the CLR seems to have solved the leaking problem for us

by dennis

how does putting clr in the tub with water help the inlet valve decorrode? what am i mising here?

by greg defever

Farspace, silly question but do you put the CLR in the liquid detergent tray, or directly in the wash drum? I assume the latter, as a 1/4 gallon seems like that's too much for a detergent tray. And as it turns out, I actually have the washer used in the video so it literally helps me out! Thank you in advance!

by Tim Woliver

I started to notice water filling up in my HE washing machine two weeks ago. I thought it was odd but just ran it with another load in it . Went away for the weekend and came back to wash clothes and to my surprise there was a ton of water in it. Of course I freaked out and searched for the number to a service man and was going to call them Monday morning. I then googled my problem and found this. I decided to try CLR first after I dropped the kids off at school I went to Walmart and bought it for around $7. Came home and ran the washing machine twice running the CLR through the dispenser on the warm cycle and it worked!

Thanks for posting your experience it saved me a huge service bill I am sure.

by tgolba

The CLR treatment has worked for me also! I first shut off the water supply to the machine, disconnected and drained the supply hoses of water, then turned the open end up and poured CLR into it so that it gets to the valve to do its cleaning. The cold water inlet valve did allow the hose to fill with CLR so I'm guessing that valve wasn't as bad as the hot water side because I was able to empty what was left of the bottle into that side. I then held the open end of the supply hoses up and allowed the CLR to soak for several more minutes before reconnecting them, then ran 2 empty cycles on 'quick wash' without clothes detergent to flush the system which additionally cleaned the drum and all parts that come in contact with hard water. This is a useful technique and will now become part of my annual preventive maintenance routine, my dishwasher is next.

Thank you farspace.

by cranstonvalentine

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As mayer stated, replacing the valve would be the easiest way to go. If you're going to pull the valve out, you can then visually inspect the inlet and outlet ports to see if there are deposits. There are strainers on the inlet side of the valve where you may see the deposits, particularly the hot water inlet. If there are visible deposits, you could put CLR in a pan and soak the valve to try to remove the deposits. Only put enough in the pan to cover the inlet and outlet ports and not the electrical connections or solenoid.

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Hi, My lg has 2 inlet valves, hot and cold. I ordered both based on what I have read. The parts are in transit. I have hard water, I took both the valve assemblies out today. Easy, 2 screws for both. The cold water has three valves, the hot water has one. Each valve unit has 4 screws at the base. Remove these screws, pull the unit apart. Do the following:

Clean the neoprene assemblies in clr, then use simple green or some other cleaner to make sure all the hard water debris has been cleaned off. Put the units back together and secure the inlet valve assemblies to the back of the washer unit. If the neoprene assemblies are torn or worn out then you need to replace the inlet valve assembly unit, if not all will work as expected. It is clear that these inlet valve assemblies were meant to removed and cleaned.

by Mostlyretired

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Hi all, thanks for the thread, it helped point me in the right direction//

"Farspace" mentioned the use of CLR, (thanks "farspace")but did not explain getting it into the inlet valve.. As just putting the CLR into the drum will not get it into the inlet valve, I went a step farther..

Turn off water and disconnect the hoses from the supply line, drain the hoses, pour clr into the hoses, reconnect and run an empty cycle.. this gets the clr running through the valve..

(I am not a repairman and I do not claim to know anything about washing machines, my only experience is fixing my own stuff.... this was simply the easy logical way to get the clr running through the valve)

This process did work for me, My washer was slowly filling when not in use running some clr through the valve must have cleared some deposits that were keeping the valve from fully closing..

** after using clr, I would recommend a couple more empty washes to flush it all out before doing laundry..

I hope this helps someone,, it saved me ..

lastly I did not have to order my valve, as this fixed it but for those that have to replace itk once you have the part number, I would recommend shopping around a bit,, Amazon had my valve for about 35%off what the "Repair Clinic" has it listed for....

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Also, after pouring the CLR into the inlet hoses and reconnecting them to the water supply, leave the CLR in the hoses long enough to do its work dissolving the mineral deposits (per the instructions on the bottle) before turning the water back on and running the empty machine through a short cycle to clear the CLR out.

by Al Seaver

removing the valve and soaking it overnight would be a better option, then filling the hoses with CLR of Food Grade Citric Acid when putting it back in.

I prefer the Citric Acid (vitamin C), it is non toxic and cleans just as well, I also add 1/4 cup of it to my water softener with each bag of salt to prevent prevent faucets clogging.

by Bob

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Are the valves very easy/expensive to replace? No husband here to fix it.

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Molly, about $40USD from from here. To see how it's done check this video

by oldturkey03

If "Rosie the Riveter" could do it, you're don't need a man for this job ;-)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosie_the_...

by mayer

Edgewater parts, $25.65 including tax and shipping. Easy to replace.

by Bob

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Regarding the CRL solution mentioned by FarSpace above, I wonder how the CLR flushes through the line and clean the input valve? I ask because the input valve receive water directly from the house supply. So how can we pour CRL in the water supply? Please elaborate. Thanks.

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David Troupe, Farspace cleaned the water inlet by pouring CLR in the drum (sounds like it). If you need to clean the valves, follow the advice given by semiretired48

by oldturkey03

Thanks for your reply oldturkey03. So it appears that the inlet valve still needs to be removed regardless (so that semiretired48 can inspect for deposit and then deep the valve into the pan of CLR). That what I understand from the comment.

by Dave Troupe

Yes that is the way I read it as well.

by oldturkey03

"Farspace" mentioned the use of CLR, (thanks "farspace")but did not explain getting it into the inlet valve.. As just putting the CLR into the drum will not get it into the inlet valve, I went a step farther..

Turn off water and disconnect the hoses from the supply line, drain the hoses, pour clr into the hoses, reconnect and run an empty cycle.. this gets the clr running through the valve..

by davidperkey

shut off the water remove the water hoses from the house side of the water line drain them into a bucket then hold them above the height of the inlet valve and pour in some CLR. the CLR will then get to the inlet valve without having to remove it

by jerpen1

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Dave, I replaced the water inlet valve and still doing it. Water slowly fills where you put detergent and then drips/runs down inside of washing machine on front seal and into basin. Appreciate any other ideas. Thanks, Curtis

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I had this challenge about a year ago, called a repair guy, and he replaced the valve ya'll are talking about. The challenge is back. The inlet valve could not have gone bad in one year. One thing the repair guy said is that the computerized panel under the top could be going bad. He also mentioned that the life expectancy of that panel is about seven years and that it's about $700 to replace. Does this sound about right, or should I find another repair person. I bought my Whirlpool HE front loader and dryer in 2005. I would think the set should have another good five years. I only do two loads a week.

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I had this challenge about a year ago, called a repair guy, and he replaced the valve ya'll are talking about. The challenge is back. The inlet valve could not have gone bad in one year. One thing the repair guy said is that the computerized panel under the top could be going bad. He also mentioned that the life expectancy of that panel is about seven years and that it's about $700 to replace. Does this sound about right, or should I find another repair person. I bought my Whirlpool HE front loader and dryer in 2005. I would think the set should have another good five years. I only do two loads a week.

by bizzydizzy

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Dave H will be eternally grateful.