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Repair guides and support for the first generation Grand Cherokee ZJ, an upscale mid-size SUV built by Chrysler's Jeep division.

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car heats up then stalls. wait 20 minutes and will start again.

have changed coil, pick up, fuel pump and relays still continues to stall.

Answer this question I have this problem too

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what do you mean by "heats up"? explain exactly what happens.

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The engine compartment and the hoses (especially those that run around the block) get hot - that softens the walls of the tubes enough to allow them to collapse under vacuum. After the engine compartment cools (in your case about 20 minutes) the soft hoses stiffen up and "remember" they are supposed to be round. Then the tube works as normal and you can start the engine. I also knew of a leaky head gasket cause something like this (but more often it was a vacuum related problem).

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The concern I have is the "heats up" issue. Does it heat up or does it get hot

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oldturkey03 Good point. Doesn't say "overheats" -the idiot light isn't mentioned nor any mention of radiator or water pump/lines. I assumed statement to mean "reaches operating temperature".

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All-

I experienced the same engine stalling symptoms with my 1992 Jeep Wrangler. While studying the maintenance manual I noticed presence of "engine temperature sensor", not the same as the temperature gauge sender. This part senses high/low engine temperatures and responds to change fuel mixture, or stall engine complexly if it believe the engine is overheating. I changed this part and have had no further occurrence. Maybe this will help you?

Good Luck

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Two possible causes:

1. In a car this age you may be seeing vacuum hose rot. Vacuum hoses get soft with age (softer when hot). when the hose gets hot the walls collapse stopping vacuum function. After cooling 20 minutes the hose pop's back into shape (open) and the vacuum switch works again.

See what error codes your getting and how/in what way vacuum hoses could be involved.

2. if this is a carbonated engine dirt in the carb is getting sucked into a jet and starving the engine. After 20 minutes the vacuum in the carb releases and the dirt falls to the bottom of the bowl until it's sucked up into a jet again.

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1 Comment:

I had a similar problem. I found the main air intake hose had popped off (repetitive problem) after the engine air filter. I sealed it using 100mph tape.

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Twenty minutes is a long time when diagnosing a no start problem. The two critical things to determine when it shuts down are ignition spark and fuel pressure. No spark narrows the problem to the ignition system. No or low fuel pressure narrows it down to pump and fuel lines. No fuel pressure could be an electrical problem, but low pressure is definitely pump or fuel lines. If you hear the pump run when cranking, the electrical problem is eliminated.

The diagnostics for either of these problems go in different directions, so it's important to know which.

One quick test which eliminates a rare problem: Open the fuel fill cap and try to start. The fuel tank vent is electrically operated. If the vent is closed or stopped up, the pump will run until the vacuum pressure in the tank makes it impossible to maintain pressure.

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it could also be a bad ground crank position sensor or throtle position sensor how does the vehicle idle while heating up is it rough or smooth

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I had a similar problem. I found the main air intake hose had popped off (repetitive problem) after the engine air filter. I sealed it using 100mph tape.

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Had a similar problem that turned out to be a heat shield had been removed that protected the fuel pump from the heat off the exhaust manifold. when the manifold got hot enough it would vaporize the fuel in the gas lines and cause the car to stall. Something to check

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