2.3GHz, 2.6GHz, or 2.7GHz quad-core Intel Core i7 processor (Turbo Boost up to 3.7GHz) with 6MB shared L3 cache.

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fuse location and type is the same for a Mid-2012 Retina 15"

I'm sorry, I'd like to add this as a related/follow-up question for oldturkey03, but I don't see an option to leave a comment on his answer. I'm wondering if the fuse location and type is the same for a Mid-2012 Retina 15" as for Sync's Late 2013 model. And if so, is there good info out there about replacing this fuse or a good place/person to do it that doesn't charge an arm and a leg (does iFixit offer a service)?

Thanks,

Fred

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The reason why there is no follow up. is because everyones question is individualized:-) what is your computers serial number? If you can see if you find a 820-XXXX number on your logic board. That will help us to properly identify your computer.

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Thanks, oldturkey! Yes, I guess my question is individualized, but at the time it seemed like it might be good to associate it w/ the original post. :-)

The computer's serial # is C02J2204DKQ2. I do not see an 822-XXXX number on the bottom of the logic board (side exposed when bottom case is removed), but I can pull it again if the serial # is not sufficient. There does appear to be a MLB serial # between the keyboard and battery connectors: C02226700XSDRF1A0.

Thanks for any guidance you can provide in testing/repairing/replacing the fuse!

Fred

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2.6 GHz Core i7 (I7-3720QM)

Intro Date: June 11, 2012 Disc Date: February 13, 2013

Order No: MC976LL/A Model No: A1398 (EMC 2512)

Subfamily: Retina Mid-2012 Model ID: MacBookPro10,1

Std RAM: 8 GB Std VRAM: 1 GB*

Std Storage: 512 GB SSD Std Optical: None*

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Fred Turner, the fuse is reference designator F9700. It is a 3AMP 32V in a 603 package. Use an ohm meter to check for continuity. Hope this helps, good luck.

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Update

U9701 is the backlight driver LP8545SQX

Q9706 and Q9707 are the MOSFET (power for the backlight)

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Okay, thanks! I'm pretty sure the fuse is blown, but will verify when I can figure out how to make my multimeter work right. :-) Assuming that is the case, do you have any recommendations for a fix? Thx, Fred

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I would definitely replace the fuse. It will be to dangerous to run it without a fuse (by placing a jumper across it). Yes its a tough thing to solder on a logic board, but its a must in my opinion. Does your multimeter have an ohm scale?

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Yes, it does, but I'm not sure it's working properly, or that I'm reading it right. I only get a "1" over to the left of the readout, and it doesn't change when I touch the leads to the fuse. My soldering skills are beginner-level at best. I can't see myself being able to work on something that small. Is there some place or person who is skilled at this sort of work? Or at the least, somewhere I can look for soldering tips on this small of a scale?

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Do you have a digital or analog meter? Analog uses a needle as display, digital a LCD readout? Set your meter to the highest number. Then touch the two leads together. Does the needle or LCD move (most likely toward zero? If so your meter shows continuity. Now touch each end of the fuse with your meter. Does the needle (LCD) move? If yes, you have continuity (fuse ok) if not, then you have no continuity (Fuse blown). As for the soldering, I would check your local telephone directory and check for any electronics shop that still does repair. i.e. TV repair, also ask your local electronics supplier i.e. Radio Shack. They usually know someone that can do it. Also, do not forget local colleges and universities. They all have great electronic departments.Hope this helps.

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You've been a big help, OT03, much thanks! I have a run-of-the-mill Cen-Tech Digital Multimeter, the red one w/ bit selector knob in the middle. The Ohm scale has 5 markings: 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, and 2000k. At 2000k, touching the leads together does cause the readout, which starts w/ a 1 in the far left position, to drop to 0. Touching the negative lead to the top side of the fuse (toward the fan) and positive toward the bottom side causes the readout to bounce around between about 150-225. Reversing the leads results in a little lower range of about 135-190, but still bouncing around. Does this conclude anything? Thx, FT

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