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ok now my dryer is over heating on all cycles?? what would be causing this problem.. replacing the thermal fuse made the dryer run a cycle but only HOT air is coming out.. when the cycle is done the clothes are too hot to touch.. please help
Is this a good question?
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Nena, this could be caused by a bad thermostat or a failed thermal cutoff/ The thermal cutoff is a non-resettable device. The cutoff temperature is 178°C (352°F). Of course clean your dryer vents and make sure the airflow is not obstructed.
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Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.
Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.
Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
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Thanks - my dryer started overheating as soon as it was turned on. It is an older Kenmore so I have replaced about everything on it - but have never had this symptom before. Sure enough, when I took out the heating element and inspected it, one of the insulators had come off and the coil was touching the frame creating a short circuit (it broke loose easily but looked a little like a spot weld). I manipulated the coil a little bit and put the insulator back in place and it works normally again. Since I have no idea why the insulator came off in the first place, I am ordering a new heating element - it has been about a decade since I put this one in.
John
I replaced everything and it still overheats.
Same Here, first time I fire it up it runs about 3 minutes, Elements glowing the entire time, then It shuts down. The more I try it the sooner it shuts down. Old Kenmore, Replaced the Cycling Thermostat, the holder, inspected the Heater coil/insulators. Without the Vent Hose It Blows out strong, Vent Hose is Un-Blocked. The heating element never shuts off until the safety kicks the entire unit off so i am at a loss.
Rep: 25
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Pull the dryer from the wall. Disconnect the vest hose. If you have a leaf blower, take the long tube off so you only have the motor asm in your hands. Stick the blower opening where the tube went into the opening in the well. Turn on the blower and let it run for a about 5 minutes. You would be surprised what come out the other end! That will help in the proper air flow in the dryer.
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Great idea ;-)
I can see clearly thought the hose. It's not very long at all. No obstructions.
Rep: 13
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I have seen the heating element come on high , even when Air dry is selected, which should be NO HEAT! This is usually caused by a bad control board. The board located near the upper left hand side of the dryer on the older kenmore and whirpool models. This board is fairly expensive to replace, for myself here in Canada anyway. if you do replace it, make sure you get the proper replacement , as they all look the same but will not function in different dryers most of the time.
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Electronic control board W10182365 / WPW10182365 manages the functions of the dryer such as drying time and temperature. Part Number WPW10174746 replaces W10174746, PS11749573, W10177388, W10182365, B005ARAUUI, B001RCDYVC, B002DQ7MZ0 Brands Using this Part: Whirlpool, Kenmore, Sears, Maytag
My beko DCU 8230 gets very hot I've cleaned it all through tried the button on the back incase it was that but still overheating
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I tried replacing the control board, heating element, and several sensors (more then $150 in parts), but still had the same problem. On about the 5th or 6th time I had disassembled the dryer I noticed that the connector for the moisture sensor (which I had to disconnect every time I took the front panel off) had some tape around it that had slipped down and exposed some of the wires in the back of the connector. The connector was directly behind the front panel and I realized that it might be touching the panel occasionally and shorting/creating a false signal in the moisture sensor circuit. I re-taped the connector and put everything back together, and I haven’t had a problem since, for over six months now.
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I’m having a similar issue. I have a 13 yo Kenmore Elite Dryer 110.87727702 and my dryer wouldn’t run. My dad took it apart, tested the thermal fuse and it was dead. Since it was apart he replaced the rollers, belt, and thermistor and dampness sensors. Put it back together, plugged it in and it worked for two minutes and the heating element went. Today he replaced the element, but on extra low the clothes were so hot they burned me. Any idea what is going on.
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5 Comments
so can those 2 things be replaced??
by Nena
yes they can be replaced
by hondaleblanc2007
replaced the element and a fuse no my dryer overheats and be hot and its not even on. Help someone please.
by Warner
Was it the heating element im having same. Problem
by Steven Horvath
I tried replacing the control board and several sensors (more then $150 in parts), but still had the same problem. On about the 5th or 6th time I had disassembled the dryer I noticed that the connector for the moisture sensor (which I had to disconnect every time I took the front panel off) had some tape around it that had slipped down and exposed some of the wires in the back of the connector. The connector was directly behind the front panel and I realized that it might be touching the panel occasionally and shorting/creating a false signal in the moisture sensor circuit. I re-taped the connector and put everything back together, and I haven’t had a problem since, for over six months now.
by Steve Bishop