Great information folks. Am sure many others as well, but I appreciate the time taken to share. Sadly, I have no "obvious" broken soder points. I have removed the Control board, and everything looks in tact. But if you zoom in on the "notch" (right centre) there appears to be some scarred section of the board... Either way, i suspect my only next choice is to by a replacement and install it. (just to note, I saw the F01 error, tried unplugging, nothing).
Now that I think about it, is there anyway of confirming the F01 indicates this control board, or could it also be an issue with the control board on the front/UI part of the Dryer?
Final update, wasn't the Control board, was the Thermal cut-off switch. Located underneath the base, up behind the lint-trap. A bit of a pain to get at, and get off, but a quick meter check confirmed. I then (temporarily for testing) put both wires together, and voila: the Dryer came to life and the drum began spinning... :)
I know there wasn't any back-and-forth but this site was started me thinking that this was something I could resolve myself.
PART Number: G4AP0500 TF091C ($3.99)
Dryer: Kenmore HE2 Electric Dryer
what's its mean with just an F code no #
Here is a great Youtube video that helped me and saved hundreds of dollars.
Thanks guys - was able to open mine up, see the obvious short and solder it. Works again...
by Phil Harris
Had this problem too, fix worked like a hot %#*@, obvious blowout of the solder join and only 50 bucks to get a soldering iron to fix it!! Money well spent and a fun experiment. First time soldering and started too slow w the heat, worked fine once I turned it up! Used bernzomatic detail torch w basic electrical rosin core solder.
by Shannon Baudais
had same problem and could not find a new board. used this to fix the problem and it work's like a charm.
by Dante Sabatino
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