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pat wright
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Error code on dryer F01

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Got a repair estimate of $461! Can I replace the control board myself? If so, how? Part # W10174745 for Kenmore H3 electric dryer (just found out it is a Whirlpool made for Kenmore dryer) Thanks Pat

Edited by: oldturkey03 ( )

what's its mean with just an F code no #

rich,

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mayer
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The F01 indicates a failed electronic machine control board. This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines. You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes. If the code returns after plugging the washer back in, then the electronic machine control board will need to be replaced.

You can order a new control board from the Sears PartsDirect website.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir...

Here's how to do it: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkwdftgtbkdgf...

Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components. When you access the control board, I recommend transferring the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board one connection at a time. Once you have all of the wires transferred, remove the old control board and mount the new control board in the washer. Reassemble and test the washer.

thank you

MrXNYC,

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MrFixIt66
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As with many appliance boards, relays that switch 120 VAC tend to create surge currents through the solder connections that attach the relays to the PC board. My dryer displayed a F01 also. After taking the control board out and examining the solder side of the board, it was immediately apparent that the solder joint for one of the relays had worn away and was causing arcing on the underside. I simply soldered a piece of 16 AWG wire in its place and the F01 issue is now resolved. Don't pay hundreds if dollars for a simple repair like this.

THANK YOU so much for this repair! Our dryer was exhibiting the same error, and we were able to diagnose and repair it with the suggestions found here -- replaced the worn-away solder with a piece of wire and it's good as new. Awesome - we saved so much money :)

JillCat,

My original post was about not being able to find the model and serial numbers on the back of my dryer. The type, model and serial numbers will be printed on stickers on the "rim" of the dryer's drum opening. just open the door, and you will find this info around the dryer's opening. hope that helps someone in the future. A question to MRFIxIT66: the wire you used, AWG16, what material was it made of? I know different materials have different resistances, my concern is what material wire to use: copper, aluminum, steel, etc?

Raab,

Took care of my dryer, however I did end up having to buy the replacement electronic control board. After having soldered a wire as per the post above, the dryer still would not work. It's possible that while soldering, there may have been too much heat/too long on the board. Do solder if you are confident with your skills; I am passable at soldering, and may have damaged a nearby circuit. Replacing the circuit board is as simple as adding a PCI card to your computer, simply an issue of snapping power connectors to it. There was one connector in particular that was difficult to remove: the top-left beige blade connector. It snaps deep up inside itself, and could not be removed without using a flat blade screw driver to leverage it out. Thanks for these posts, it saved me from possibly spending even more than for the board.

Raab,

Thank you so much. I had to make an account just to thank you. I am currently unemployed and could not afford a new board.

MrXNYC,

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Dante Fantonelli
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Just finishing repearing the control board as per MrFixIt66, thanks!

The instruction on the mayer answer (pictures) are ok also: you take out the 3 bolts (hex 1/4") and that frees the upper cover (you need to push a little bit to the back an lift it).

Looking from the top-front the control board is at your left, covered by a plastic white sheet. Removing the board is very easy, no screws, only plastic secures. When you take it out and turn you will notice immediately were the weld was blown.

I put some pics here https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0...

Thanks to MrFixIt66 and for the pics. The insights were very helpful. I used a solid piece of copper wire to perform the repair. I added a small puddle of soider to the post areas. I used a straight dremel bit to make a saddle in the puddles to place the wire. Holding the wire with a plier I applies the tip of the soider tool to the wire and they fused quickly. The wire did heat up and left the insulation soft till cooled. Tony

Tony ,

Thank you so much for providing the feedback everyone! :-) I wanted to ensure the Relay wasn't bad, so I replaced it and soldered it into place. A new relay from 'Newark' was less than $4, with shipping of $5. Their part number is 17C6951, which is an "Omron G8P-1A4P-DC12" 30amp relay. http://www.newark.com/omron-electronic-c... Thanks again everyone! :-)

Clay,

this was great to get the pictures. Thanks!! I bought a small copper wire and soldered it to the 2 posts with electrical solder like the pictures showed. Easy to find the controller board just under the top of the dryer. mine also had the black hot spots as shown in the pictures exactly! Save $258.00 bucks for the controller online at Sears!

Trent,

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Scott
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Thanks for the tip. I soldered a wire onto the damaged area. Works great. My board had the exact same solder wear out as the photos on this forum. I am thinking kenmore may have a recall on their hands. I am going to ask for a new board based on what I am seeing here. If I cant fix it if it happens again i am not paying hundreds for their issue. I will be contacting them, and so should all who have this problem. Thanks again for the fix advice

Scott

Did you ever contact them?

MG,

What great tips took me lass than 29 min for the fix. TIP i did not have to add a wire I just added solder to the one burnt connection as the solder was gone/fried away from the connection and is now working great.

tom herbel,

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Trevor
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Great information folks. Am sure many others as well, but I appreciate the time taken to share. Sadly, I have no "obvious" broken soder points. I have removed the Control board, and everything looks in tact. But if you zoom in on the "notch" (right centre) there appears to be some scarred section of the board... Either way, i suspect my only next choice is to by a replacement and install it. (just to note, I saw the F01 error, tried unplugging, nothing).

Board image

Now that I think about it, is there anyway of confirming the F01 indicates this control board, or could it also be an issue with the control board on the front/UI part of the Dryer?

Final update, wasn't the Control board, was the Thermal cut-off switch. Located underneath the base, up behind the lint-trap. A bit of a pain to get at, and get off, but a quick meter check confirmed. I then (temporarily for testing) put both wires together, and voila: the Dryer came to life and the drum began spinning... :)

I know there wasn't any back-and-forth but this site was started me thinking that this was something I could resolve myself.

Thanks,

Trevor.

PART Number: G4AP0500 TF091C ($3.99)

Dryer: Kenmore HE2 Electric Dryer

Edited by: Trevor ( )

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kuarce
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My wife had the F01 code and found this thread for me. I pulled the top of our dryer, unplugged and removed the board and it's case. Then removed the board and YES we had the burn solder point. I used 18 gage silver stranded wire. As said above, the key is too keep from getting the board too hot. I curled the stranded wire so it hooked the points on both end and then dropped solder down on each point and then gently heated the solder on the point in place to make a good connection.

By the way, we have an HE5 gas dryer, same board.

THANKS!!!!

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Harold
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Our dryer had the same short on the board.. I used a one inch piece of stranded wire, bent it to lay on all three point, and soldered it down with a soldering iron like my dad showed me, on computer boards, 30 years ago. Works like a charm.

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coldbeer31
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Should there be any cause for concern after the point as been soldered? The dryer is working fine after the point was fixed.

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Harold
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I asked our journeyman mechanic at work.. He said it'll be fine. If not it'll simply short again. We'll see.

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brendlm30
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I have one plug to transfer which is very difficult for me to get in. I'm afraid I'll break it can someone post a picture of how it should go in? Its the plug on the right with the red cords.

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Marko Herrera
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Great post. Has kenmore addressed this issue

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Robbie
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I had the F01 error but the circuit board was fine. Eventually after taking the back and sides off the dryer I noticed the light came on every time the dryer stopped. Then I figured out that the door switch was the problem as pushing the door in made the light go out. So in the end all I did was add some sticky velcro to the switch to pad it out enough to make contact with door to keep the switch closed when the door was closed. Hope this helps someone.

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Geo John
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read blogs on F1 code. took top off control panel and made sure electric plug connections were tight. pulled them off and reset them as suggested in a blog I read. worked fine. this has happened a few times over the past couple of years. resetting the connectors does the job. particularly the two on the left side. those are the ones that cause the code. the cause is opening and closing and possibly slamming the dryer door effects them after a while. sometimes I get the code and it goes away right away usually after slamming the door closed. I'm sure there are other causes for the code without a simple fix like this but this is one cause for the code

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Dylan Christopherson
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My F01 Error was a faulty control board. Do an internet search for W10177458B to find the tech service sheet / manual for HE3 dryer.

Was your solder fried as posted above?

MG,

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MG
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I too had a solder fry off. Replaced with a wire and it worked fine. It IS a little disconcerting though and worries me why that is frying off in the first place. Any news on a recall?

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