Flat or under-inflated tires ¶ 

There is little or no air pressure in the tire.

Not enough air ¶ 

The tube valve cap must be present at all times in order to prevent air from escaping. The tube valve stem could be loose in which case use a wrench to tighten it. Over time the tire pressure decreases, requiring the occasional use of a bike pump to inflate the tire.

Punctured tire/damaged tube ¶ 

If the tire quickly deflates it is possible that the inner tube has popped. Tubes may be repaired using a patch kit or replaced with a new tube.

See [invalid guide link]

Bike is hard to pedal (excessive friction) ¶ 

"It feels like I'm riding uphill all the time!"

Brakes are too tight or misaligned ¶ 

Tight or misaligned brakes can cause resistance while pedaling. On the frame below the handlebars (front brakes) and the seat (rear brakes) where cable meets cable housing, loosen brakes by turning the screw clockwise. If adjusting screw does not alleviate the excessive brake cable tension, follow the brake cable to where the brake mechanism meets the tire. Here, loosen the nut holding the cable and brake together until cable is sufficiently loose before re-tightening nut.

See the brake adjustment guide.

Wheel is damaged ¶ 

After prolonged use, wheel may become worn and lose traction. This issue can be fixed by replacing the worn tire.

See [invalid guide link]

Chain falls off or gets stuck while riding ¶ 

Pedals are not responsive

Front derailleur is misaligned ¶ 

The front derailleur moves the chain from one chainring to the next chainring and can become misaligned. Misalignment causes the chain to rub against the derailleur, possibly leading to chain slipping. This issue can be resolved by repairing or replacing the derailleur.

See the derailleur adjustment guide.

Loose chain ¶ 

If the chain is loose, it may brush against the derailleur and possibly slip when changing gears. To tighten the chain, first locate the nuts holding the rear tire to the frame. Use a wrench to loosen nuts then move the rear wheel back until chain has about an inch of movement. Finally re-tighten the nuts using the wrench. If chain is still loose after moving wheel as far back as possible, replace with a new chain.

See the chain adjustment guide.

Chain grinds against derailleur ¶ 

You hear a clicking noise while pedaling.

Front derailleur is misaligned ¶ 

The front derailleur moves the chain from one chainring to the next chainring and can become misaligned. Misalignment causes the chain to rub against the derailleur, possibly leading to chain slipping. This issue can be resolved by repairing or replacing the derailleur.

See the derailleur adjustment guide.

Derailleur hanger is bent ¶ 

The hanger should be parallel with the the face of the rear cogs. With the derailleur installed, the pulleys should be in the same plane as the rear cogs.

Wheels are wobbly or brush against brake pads ¶ 

Bike shakes or wobbles while riding.

Broken spoke ¶ 

A broken spoke can be detected if it makes noise as the wheel rotates or if a missing spoke is visible. A spoke can be replaced by an experienced wheelbuilder.

Wheel is out of "true" ¶ 

Truing a wheel is one of the trickiest maintenance and repair jobs needed on a bicycle. An inexperienced truing "touch up" can turn an imperfection into a disaster. We recommend taking your damaged wheel to a good wheelbuilder or bicycle repair shop.

Brakes are weak ¶ 

You need a lot of distance to stop.

Brake pads are worn out ¶ 

Brake pads have limited operational life and must be replaced periodically in order to prevent unsafe riding conditions. A delay in slowing down after the brakes are engaged is an indication of worn out brake pads. To fix the problem replace the brake pads.

Brake cables are loose ¶ 

If the brake lever feels loose when engaged, the brake cables likely need to be tightened. Try turning the barrel adjuster on the brake lever counterclockwise to tighten the brake cable.

If brakes are still too loose, refer to the brake cable tightening guide.

Handlebars are misaligned ¶ 

The handlebars are not in line with the wheel

Headset is cracked ¶ 

A cracked headset does not allow the handlebars to grip the frame well, making it difficult to turn as desired. The best solution is to replace the damaged headset with a new one.

Headset is loose ¶ 

If the headset screw is loose, the headset will rotate independently from the frame and wheel. To fix this issue, use an allen wrench to tighten the headset screw.

Gears do not shift properly ¶ 

Gears slip or do not change when adjusted

Cable housing is damaged ¶ 

Gear cable housing is the plastic lining that covers and protects the metal gear cable. It is important to keep the cable housing intact and undamaged in order to protect the gear cable from rusting. If the cable housing is damaged, the ability to change gears without resistance is lost. In order to fix this issue, new cable housing should be purchased and installed to replace the damaged housing.

Cogset is worn ¶ 

The cogset is a set of discs with teeth on the outer edge. Over time the teeth can be worn down making it difficult for the chain to grip on, which causes the gears to slip. The best solution is to replace the cogset.

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