Bicycle Troubleshooting

These are general instructions for all bicycles. Although most bicycles are manufactured similarly, these instructions may not apply to some models. But before dealing with major problems, here are some general maintenance tips.

Before every ride

• Check the tire pressure. The ideal pressure is indicated on the side of the tire.
• Check the chain lubrication. It should not be dry, nor should rust be developing. However, excessive lubrication can be just as troublesome.
• Test the safety of your bicycle: the brakes work properly, and the wheels are securely fastened and centered. Gently bounce the bicycle on the ground; if you hear a rattling sound, a part might be loose.
• If your fork has an air suspension or if you have a rear shock absorber, check the air pressure.
• If you are carrying a load, check that your panniers and other luggage are securely fastened.
• Always carry the means to repair a flat tire.

After a ride

• Clean the bicycle and store it to avoid exposing it to the elements, which could worsen corrosion or rust.

Once a month

• Perform a more thorough safety inspection to detect, for example, any cracks around bolted parts.
• Properly lubricate the rear derailleur pulleys.
• Check that the crank and chainring bolts are tight.
• Make sure the wheels are not wobbling and that the hub has no play. (Do the wheels oscillate back and forth?)
• Measure the chain.
• Check the brake pad wear.
• Make sure all luggage racks are securely fastened, as their fasteners can loosen over time.
• Check that your headset has no slack.
• If you have a full-suspension mountain bike, check the tension of the pivot points at the rear of the bicycle.
• If you have clipless pedals, lightly lubricate the pivot points and the springs.

About every six months

• Check that the gear and brake cables, as well as their housings, are neither cracked nor corroded.
• Change the oil and rags. Replace the suspension fork and rear shock absorber seals.

Once a year

• Service the loose ball bearing hubs.
• Service your headset.
• Change all cables and their housings.
• Replace worn parts (tires, brake pads, grips, handlebar tape, chain).

Obviously, these instructions do not apply to all cyclists. Some ride more than others. Most bicycle shops offer an annual service where you can have the bicycle undergo a complete review. The purpose of these general guidelines is to help you avoid major trouble through regular maintenance.

The bicycle squeaks when you ride or pedal.

Identify exactly where the noise is coming from. The squeaking can be linked to a moving part that is not well lubricated, but it can also come from any joint between two components. The transmission is usually the culprit, but this is not necessarily the case. If your quick-release lever is not tight on your rear wheel, it might squeak. Your headset can rust and make creaking and squeaking noises. If the bicycle squeaks when you are not pedaling, it is possible that it is not related to the transmission. Common sources of the problem can include: the front and rear derailleurs, the chain, the pedals (there is too much play in the pedals or the pedal threads are not greased), the headset, the handlebars, the chainring bolts, the bottom bracket axle, the gear cables, a contaminated brake pad (with some lubricant), the seat post, the suspension (front or rear), the cassette, the pivot points on rear-suspension bicycles, or any moving part.

You can use all sorts of wet or dry lubricants. Wet lubricants risk getting even dirtier in case of improper use. Many cyclists use WD-40, but this is not the best choice, as the chemical cleaning agents it contains accelerate the rusting process. Local bicycle shops offer a large choice of lubricants. The ideal product for you depends on your needs. If you live in a rather dry and arid area, a light lubricant might do the trick, but if your climate is rather humid, you might not be able to use the same lubricant. It risks being washed away very quickly in wet weather due to its fluid texture. Ask a local bicycle shop what product they use for bicycle services to give you an idea of what you need. Remember that there are several types of lubricants for the different parts of a bicycle. A lubricant for bearings is no more suitable for your chain than a lubricant for a freewheel body is for your derailleur pivot points. Proper lubrication is the key to maintenance and preventing unwanted noises from your bicycle.

Check if the noise has disappeared. A test ride allows the chain lubricant to penetrate all pivot points. Wipe off the excess product and you are ready to hit the road again.

The chain slips and skips while you are pedaling.

Identify the cause of the problem

If the chain is too loose, it slips when you pedal while loaded or ride on uneven terrain. If the chain is worn (which can happen after 1,600 km depending on chain maintenance), it risks slipping and wearing out certain elements of the transmission. If your chain is too long, shorten it by consulting the guide for removing a chain link and the guide for reassembling the chain.

Correct the chain tension

Loosen the two axle nuts or the quick-release lever and slide the wheel towards the back of the bicycle to correct the chain tension. Be careful not to overtighten the chain. Otherwise, it will be unnecessarily exposed to too much tension, and the bearings risk rubbing more against the transmission. It might be necessary to adjust the chain tension several times before achieving the ideal tension.

Alignment

Check if the rear wheel is centered at the back. Use the seat tube (the part of the bicycle where the seat post is inserted) as a reference to center the tire. Examine your chain along its entire length; it should not deviate from side to side as it travels around the sprockets.

Identify the cause of the problem

It is possible that the chain slips while remaining in the same gear or jumps from one gear to another for no reason. It can be difficult to tell the difference between the two. Multi-speed bicycles have derailleurs that maintain chain tension in all gears so that the chain does not risk slipping while you are changing gears with the derailleur. We have a guide to help you adjust the rear derailleur.

If your chain skips

This could be linked to a stiff, rusted, or deformed chain link. Try oiling the chain slightly and rotating it to get rid of the rust, but do not expect to permanently solve the problem this way. It is difficult to straighten a deformed link, so it is better to just remove it with a chain tool or replace the entire chain. (Consult the guide for removing the chain.) When reassembling the chain, make sure to use a new pin, as they must be deformed slightly to fit together, and if you reuse one and it is heavily stressed later, it risks breaking.

If your chain changes gears unexpectedly

The problem may be related to the derailleur adjustment, cable corrosion, or a deformed derailleur hanger. Consult this guide to adjust the derailleur.

You press the brakes all the way, but the bicycle does not slow down as quickly as you would like.

Perhaps the pads are worn. In this case, they must be replaced. Consult the guide for accessing and adjusting the brake pads.

The brake lever is not supposed to touch the handlebar, even if you brake hard. If it does, you will have to adjust the length of the brake cable. Here are the instructions to follow.

The pedal offers more resistance than usual when you are pedaling, even at low speed.

Perhaps it is set to a gear that is too high to start. You just need to shift to a lower gear while you are riding.

Get off the bicycle and spin the wheels. They should neither slow down nor stop suddenly. Check if the brake pads are rubbing when the brake lever is not pulled. You can adjust the alignment or the play of the brakes, or tilt the wheel to one side. Here is how to adjust the brakes.

If the brakes are not rubbing, but the wheel is still stiff, your cones may be too tight. Or it is the bottom bracket, the crank attachment point, that is too tight. Every rotating element of the bicycle is composed of cones and bearings. You will find the locations of the cones and cranks on a bicycle in the cone adjustment guide or the crank adjustment guide.

One of the two wheels could be wobbly and rubbing against the brakes at a certain point of the rotation. Use a spoke wrench to true the wheel. The straighter the rims, the more pleasant it will be to ride. There is also a loss of energy if the wheels are not completely round. Consult our guide for truing a wheel.

You are pedaling, but the bicycle remains stationary.

Perhaps the chain has fallen off. Or it has broken. In that case, here are the instructions for repairing it.

You feel too much slack in the crank when you pedal.

The bottom bracket cones are not adjusted correctly. Consult the guide for replacing the cranks.

The shifters do not change gears, or the gear changes when you do not want it to.

It is possible that the chain is not positioned completely or correctly on the gears. Adjust the derailleur until the chain changes gears on its own. If that does not work, adjust the chain length using the guide for removing a chain link and the guide for reassembling the chain.