Introduction

The Nintendo GameCube launching 2001 was the second most powerful gaming console of its time, though it didn't feature any other multimedia capabilities than playing games.

It was my first stationary gaming device and I still appreciate it, because a lot of good games like Zelda: The WindWaker and the best version of Resident Evil 4 have their homes on this platform.

The unit disassembled in this teardown is a PAL one.

That's it. enjoy the teardown!

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your Nintendo GameCube, use our service manual.

Image 1/1:
  • Before you can even think of disassembling any Nintendo device you have to face the same problem with every console except NES and Wii: the screws of the enclosure. And the most tricky fact of these screws is their type because this is not a reasonable standard screw.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: This bit is a Nintendo Reduced E Series bit size 8. Found at http://eazypower.com/shop/nintendor-tee-starr-screw-remover-14.html Image 2/2: This bit is a Nintendo Reduced E Series bit size 8. Found at http://eazypower.com/shop/nintendor-tee-starr-screw-remover-14.html
  • These four screws I'm talking about are a compound of a flat plate with a thicker convex layer with six notches in the brass.

  • This bit is a Nintendo Reduced E Series bit size 8. Found at http://eazypower.com/shop/nintendor-tee-...

It is called a "gamebit" driver, they are pretty hard to find, if you don't know what they are called.

Chris Green - Reply

Otherwise known as a "Nintendo Opening Tool", it's a bit that goes into any screwdriver. VERY handy to have... I got mine on eBay.

Cyrus - Reply

Image 1/1: Using a steel rod of about 8 mm diameter.
  • I couldn't find anything suitable in the internet, so I built one on my own in this way:

  • Using a steel rod of about 8 mm diameter.

  • I tried to mill three teeth with equivalent distance around the boundary of one end of the rod with an angle grinder. After that I drilled a hole perpendicularly in the center of the rod. Taddaah... a working screwdriver!

  • Now let's begin the Teardown.

I read (and have successfully used) this tip:

Take a clear bic pen, and disassemble it. Then melt the end of the barrel with a lighter. Let it cool for about two seconds then press it firmly against the screw. Instant custom-molded gamecube screwdriver. Only problem is the "screwdriver" will strip after one or two screws, but it's enough for at least one. If the screwdriver strips, remelt and go again.

TuxRug - Reply

Clever idea !!! never would

have thought of that

Traiva - Reply

A caveat: make sure you do wait the two seconds before jamming the pen against the screw, or else the plastic will melt together with the plastic of the case.

TuxRug -

Image 1/3: Turn the device on its stands again, now lift the top case off. It'll come up easily. Image 2/3: Turn the device on its stands again, now lift the top case off. It'll come up easily. Image 3/3: Turn the device on its stands again, now lift the top case off. It'll come up easily.
  • Make sure to have a game disc inserted to avoid damaging the lens. Flip the unit upside down and remove the screws sitting in the four holes with your possibly self-made screwdriver. Don't remove the enclosure yet!

  • Turn the device on its stands again, now lift the top case off. It'll come up easily.

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Then remove the heatsinks of the memory card slots (necessary step). Image 2/3: Then remove the heatsinks of the memory card slots (necessary step). Image 3/3: Then remove the heatsinks of the memory card slots (necessary step).
  • Unsnap the controller port cover and the rearmost I/O-cover by unsnapping the two snaps on the sides of each cover. Don't remove the controller panel yet.

  • Then remove the heatsinks of the memory card slots (necessary step).

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Start by removing the fan assembly. Image 2/3: then unscrew the 12 visible screws on the edging of the now not any more so cubeshaped GameCube. Image 3/3: then unscrew the 12 visible screws on the edging of the now not any more so cubeshaped GameCube.
  • Now start removing the 'normal' Phillips #0 screws.

  • Start by removing the fan assembly.

  • then unscrew the 12 visible screws on the edging of the now not any more so cubeshaped GameCube.

Add Comment

Image 1/1: The mainboard is now visible.
  • Now you can lift the drive assembly up. You maybe have to loosen it a bit with a screwdriver or a heavy duty spudger.

  • The mainboard is now visible.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Now use anything flat and durable to carefully lift up the heatsink by putting it under the aluminium and using it gently as a lever. Image 2/2: Now use anything flat and durable to carefully lift up the heatsink by putting it under the aluminium and using it gently as a lever.
  • Now remove the heatsink. Unscrew the six screws holding it.

  • Now use anything flat and durable to carefully lift up the heatsink by putting it under the aluminium and using it gently as a lever.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: Now disconnect the controller port panel connector by lifting and jiggling it carefully. It should come off easily. Image 2/2: Now disconnect the controller port panel connector by lifting and jiggling it carefully. It should come off easily.
  • If there are thermal pads remainig on the processors and/or ram chips, remove them with a plastic spudger.

  • Now disconnect the controller port panel connector by lifting and jiggling it carefully. It should come off easily.

Add Comment

Image 1/2: ATI 'Flipper' GPU, 162 MHz with 3 MB 1T-SRAM embedded within the die Image 2/2: IBM 'Gekko' CPU, 486 MHz (PowerPC 750CXe-based core)
  • 24 MB MoSys 1T-SRAM

  • ATI 'Flipper' GPU, 162 MHz with 3 MB 1T-SRAM embedded within the die

  • IBM 'Gekko' CPU, 486 MHz (PowerPC 750CXe-based core)

  • Connectors (2nd pic):

  • 'Hi Speed Port'

  • 'Serial Port 1'

  • 'Serial Port 2'

Add Comment

Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • If you lift the mainboard up, you'll see a metal plate, probably for EMI-protection. Remove the two screws holding it and you have access to the internal power supply.

Interestingly enough, the newer version (DOL-101) doesn't have an internal power supply! Just an empty slot.

Tom D - Reply

Thomas J

Member since: 01/24/2010

246 Reputation

1 Guide authored

4 Comments

Great teardown Thomas!

Miroslav Djuric - Reply

Quote from Miroslav Djuric:

Great teardown Thomas!

Thanks!

Thomas J - Reply

WOW! Great work, Nintendo stuff is hard to open!

Mc128k - Reply

Quote from Mc128k:

WOW! Great work, Nintendo stuff is hard to open!

Thank you! Everything beyond Triwing requires creativity.

Thomas J - Reply

Add Comment

View Statistics:

Past 24 Hours: 20

Past 7 Days: 134

Past 30 Days: 630

All Time: 53,091