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June 8, 2015
I needed to separate a very delicate LCD from UV bounded digitizer&glass, the problem with this is always the degree of heat you have to apply; without burning the LCD under it. It becomes twice as difficult when the frame is aluminum drawing heat away, demanding /more/ heat to get the glue to break down.
It went well, confident as I am with repairing electrical devices, heat & lcd's are two things I tend to always be nervous about. So the Ir Thermometer made the task incredibly simple. It allowed me to maintain a consistant 120*f, without burning the lcd, but allowing the glue to remain in a constant liquid state.
I had previous purchased two other IR Thermometers, one came from RadioShack and the other from Hampteron. Both of which worked similar to the one iFixit stocks, but the iFixit model is by far superior to either of my previous purchased ones.
It won't surpass the quality of a $200+ thermometer, but it works at a lower energy consumption and much better spectrum spread than the competition.
The lcd, and light/led enable/disable is also a wonderful feature on the ifixit model; my previous ones didn't have.
As far as advice goes from separating lcd/s from uv bounded devices: Keep a constant amount of heat, around 100 - 125. Don't heat it too high it will damage the lcd beneath, at the right temperature the glue becomes liquid, and separating it at that point is a simple task.
Oh, also soft nylon/plastic picks/blacksticks. A must - don't use anything that will mar, or apply too much force when lifting the digitizer. (common sense, pretty much).
May 25, 2015
Lack of anger mgt. Threw s5 at wall, wall won!
Way faster than I expected.
magnifying glasses and plenty of white light. Watch several videos there are several ways to skin a samsung, I used parts of all the ones I watched.
April 22, 2015
My Nexus 5 and Macbook took a spill unto a concrete floor from a railing about 5 feet up.
The tools worked perfectly, the repair guide was perfect and everything came out perfect!
Don't put expensive, delicate items on railings.
January 23, 2015
I had dropped my iPad 2 and cracked the front panel... twice, and on two corners.
I used the guides. All went well. I am glad I ordered all of the parts I did. As it turned out I damaged the Wi-fi antenna when taking the front off. I put everything back together, including the new antenna... unfortunately there was no Wi-Fi... I contacted customer support, via email, and within two hours Matt had new antenna shipped out via priority mail. I installed the new antenna this morning. I am happy to report that all is well!
Definitely order that antenna just in case you toast yours like I did. The Front Panel assembly is a better deal than just the glass, as it turned out I did not need the bezel replacement, but it is good to have jut in case. The opening kit worked well. heating the gel filled pad for 30 sec worked for me.
It was a good experience, do not be afraid to attempt this fix. Oh smallest Phillips bit in my Ifixit tool set worked great. The magnetic tip is essential. I also used the magnetic mat to keep the screws in one place. The white and black grid helps keep the screws in order, and more importantly keeps them in one spot so you are not faced with the prospect of getting on your hands an knees searching for TINY screws on the floor.
January 9, 2015
After many years of use, the dock connector on my iPhone 4s had become corroded and was causing problems with the phone such as poor charging and not being able to shut the phone down (it would just restart itself when you tried to power it off).
The repair went incredibly well. I've built and repaired computers for years but had never cracked a cell phone open until today.
First off, I absolutely love the Pro Tech Toolkit. When I first decided to do this fix myself, I debated on just buying the few tools I'd need for this specific repair or to get the Pro Tech Toolkit in anticipation of doing many more repairs in the future. I'm very glad I chose to get the Pro Tech Toolkit! It is compact but packed with just about everything I'll need in the future and the high quality of the Tool Roll and all the tools inside is obvious when you are holding and using them.
I received the Magnetic Project Mat as a Christmas present this year and it was integral to making my first repair successful by easily organizing and keeping the tiny screws and parts right where I put them. Being able to write right on the mat with the dry erase pen made keeping notes about specific parts a breeze.
1. Before you do anything, read through the walk-through for your specific repair. There are lots of little pieces of info that make the repair easier.
2. Set up your work area and pull out the tools you know you'll be using so they are at the ready.
3. Lighting - The screws and some of the parts you will be dealing with are TINY so having good lighting is paramount. The lighting in my office is okay, but I hooked up a flexible USB reading light to an external battery and it worked awesome! It was easy to move around and position where I needed it which really helped.
4. Time - Make sure to give yourself plenty of time to make the full repair with as little distractions as possible. This really helped me get through the repair faster.
A few notes about the walk-through.
STEP 3 - The suction cup in the Pro Tech Toolkit is very handy here.
STEP 6 - When you pry up the battery, the adhesive makes a really horrible sound and tries to trick you into thinking you're doing something wrong. It lies, just go slowly and you'll be fine.
STEP 9 - When you are re-assembling your 4S, it is a little tricky to get the dock cable socket to fit correctly when you are putting it back in. My extra light helped a lot here and I used the tweezers to gently position the cable so the socket was oriented correctly before pushing it down with my finger. It should make a soft little snap and it won't wiggle around at all when it's seated correctly.
STEP 12 & 13 - When unscrewing the left side screw for the speaker enclosure, the small black spacer from STEP 13 came up with the screw. Be careful when you are removing this screw so the spacer doesn't get lost.
STEP 14 - During re-assembly, don't forget to clean the metal-to-metal points as directed in the walk-through. You can get a small bottle 99% Isopropyl Alcohol at VONS or Safeway. It is recommended to use 99% Isopropyl Alcohol for sensitive electronics because evaporates very fast so the parts are completely dry before you finish the re-assembly. I used a Q-Tip to apply it and gently scrub the parts.
STEP 15 - I saved this little piece of tape but didn't end up needing it because my replacement part had a new piece right where it needed to be.
STEP 18 - During reassembly, getting the little rubber tube back inside the plastic part was a little tricky but using the tweezers from the Pro Tech Toolkit I was able to get it back in after a moment of fiddling with it.
STEP 20 - This little piece of rubber is VERY tiny. One of the sides is shinier than the other and that is the side with the adhesive on it so be sure to put that side down during re-assembly.
STEP 21 - As the TIP in the walk-through says, you will need to transfer the little rubber casing from your old part to the new part. Lay both parts side by side and examine where you're taking the rubber casing from so you'll know where it goes on the new part. As the walk-through mentions, you can use the fine tipped spudger to loosen the rubber casing from the old part before you transfer it to the new one.
- IMPORTANT NEW PART INFO *****
Before you transfer the rubber casing to the new part, look carefully at the microphone nodule on the new part and you will see a clear protective film that sticks off the side of the nodule. The protective film can be easily removed with tweezers before you transfer the rubber casing.
There will be another piece of protective film on the section of the part that the microphone is connected to. Examine the rest of the new part and you will find several other pieces of protective film that you will need to remove as the re-assembly progresses. Some of the protective film covers adhesive that will keep the new part in the proper place when re-assembly is complete.
I hope these notes help you with your repair!
December 19, 2014
The screen shows only snow.
The iFixIt repair components worked fantastically! I was able to use the heat gun to melt the adhesive holding the touch pad digitizer to the iPad frame. i used: the set of picks to help separate the digitizer from the frame without damaging the plastic ring around the case; I the screwdrivers to remove the LCD; the plastic pry tools to open the LCD ribbon cable connector; the tweezers to reseat the ribbon cable; the replacement adhesive to reassemble the unit. The iFixIt tools and supplies were perfect! They worked as advertised and made the daunting task of opening a seemingly impenetrable iPad easy (I really mean easy). Unhappily, the problem was not a poorly seated ribbon cable. my iPad unfortunately seems to have other problems. Likely a failed integrated circuit.
It's worth opening these iPads 'just in case' there is something 'dumb' that can be fixed, like a cable that has become loose due to dropping the iPad or jostling it in carry on luggage. Mine has seen about 300,000 frequent flier miles in 2 years, so maybe it did as well as can be expected. Although having it fail 8 days after the warranty and AppleCare expired was not pleasant. The iFixIt videos and tools are an absolute MUST of opening (and closing) these sealed products. Opening my iPad went so smoothly that you CANNOT tell it was opened: no scratches, bent plastic ring, cracked glass, etc. One idea is that you should always wear gloves so you don't leave fingerprints, and you should have some canned air handy to clean particles off the LCD and back of the digitizer. Sometimes even with the best effort, something cannot be effectively repaired as in my case. But, it was worth a try.
December 9, 2014
The phone when connected to the charger, gave a error message, use the correct charger, then quit charging, i then conected the phone to the computer, still no charge, and I also noticed that it wouldn't conect to the computer! If I send it for repair, i will lose everything.
With Ifixet and YouTube videos, the disassembly went well, but I'm a clutz, to hold a heat gun and prying is not going to work, so I came up with a new idea, with ebay, i found parts to make a cheaper, safer heat source, and it worked like a champion. I got a dead GS5 from eBay and used it to practice with, and it is working now.I want to show my setup but I cannot get my photos here.
Go slow, watch the video many times, take notes, especially when sliding the adhesive cutter, the adhesive is only 2 mm wide, and at the bottom be very careful or you could cut the led lights, open from the top and unstick the led pads.
December 4, 2014
Screen but no displays app's
Works out okay.
November 12, 2014
The screen of my fair phone broke to the point that I had pieces of glass stuck in my hair when I would call someone.
I wanted to repair it myself, so I ordered all the things online and followed the instructions, and now I'm the proud owner of a phone i fixed myself. I'm almost proud of myself.
If you are repairing something with super tiny parts, and if you tend to be slightly clumsy, work on a fairly low surface so that if something falls, it can't fall too far. Also, don't work above fuzzy carpet. Things will mysteriously disappear.
August 25, 2014
I bought the phone in damaged condition. The mainboard and display had expanded partially from the case about 1/8 inch. Otherwise the phone worked perfectly. I thought I could fix it.
The repair was difficult. There is very little space between the display and the case to insert a pick or any other tool. The only place to put the opening pick is at the sim slot which risks bending it. But I eventually got picks 4 picks in on the sim side of the case. I was then able to slide the picks up to the bottom and top of the phone and release the tabs from their slots in the case. It was not easy.
I think the only safe way to remove the mainboard and display from the case is to start at the sim slot and work upward and downward from there. Be patient and work slowly, taking plenty of time. There are nine slots for tabs on the case and some are quite difficult to disengage. The reassembly is not difficult. The photos show the locations of some of the case slots on the old case