This printer is known to have formatter board problems. Don't bother buying one for it, as it will fail the same way. If you really want to keep it alive you're better off reflowing the old board. If this doesn't work, just send this thing to a recycling facility and get a stable printer. Even if you found a new formatter board, it would die the same way anyway. Refurbished formatter boards are usually reflowed boards from dead P2015's, or ones from units that didn't die this way. The reliability of a new and refurbished formatter board are both terrible.

TL;DR: These printers are junk. Every last one of them.

If you do decide to bin this thing, sell the toner. Someone probably has one that didn't go belly up this way. Either that or the networking died and he/she uses it locally anyway so it doesn't matter. You can probably sell the used toners to Cartridge World or another store that rebuilds toner cartridges.

When these things have bad formatter boards, it isn't hard to tell. The easiest way to tell is if the errors are changing, random or incorrect. This is the easiest way to spot a dead P2015 formatter board.

I have seen a few errors that correspond with dead units.

• Startup lockup problems(check for additional RAM with this one. Sometimes it's just bad RAM.)
• False toner errors that are fixed by removing and replacing the toner. This should not happen. If it's out of toner the light should stick. If I did this, I've warned the formatter board is bad and to be careful with the printer.
• False paper jams. This is often a dead giveaway.
• Startup issues in general. Another classic sign.
• Network printing problems. This doesn't mean the whole P2015 is dead, but the LAN port will probably never work again.
• Local print trouble. This means the printer is having a fatal problem beyond a dead LAN port.

With the problems yours is having, it sounds like a partially trashed formatter board. The fan may be plausible, but the engine error makes no sense. The motor is solid state and shouldn't die this soon. However, it is possible. The problem is fixable, but only do this on a personal printer. If this is a office one, trash it. When I wrote this, I said use a heatgun or oven. I'm going to nix the heatgun entirely and just suggest a oven reflow.

First, a video on removing the formatter board if you need visuals.

First, 2 warnings.

• DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD! You'll ruin it if the solder is molten!
• This won't last forever. Expect it to not work after 3-4 reflows. At this point, trash the printer.

• Step 1: Remove the formatter board. It lives on the side where the I/O is.
• Step 2: Take pictures of the wiring. The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.
• Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in.
• Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way to do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffs.
• Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!
• Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!
• Clean the oven good after doing this.
• Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this.

These instructions are from another question on this problem, BTW.