The screw driver image in the picture is wrong - I broke mine so you don’t have to.

Two plastic tabs either side near the charge port and either side near the power button.

Here are the batteries.

Hi,

You didn’t say what “battery health tool” you used to check the battery’s condition but try creating a Win 10 battery report and see what it shows regarding the status of the battery.

Compare the Design capacity value against the Full charge capacity value. This will give you an indication of how good the battery is.

If you determine that the battery needs replacing, then according to this supplier, the Asus part numbers for batteries compatible with the laptop are 0B200-02030000 or 0B200-02030100. Search online by using the part number only in the search term to find suppliers that suit you best. Sometimes the part number can be found on the battery if you wish to verify that you’re ordering the correct one. The part unavailable as shown by the supplier must be only from them. When searching online using the part number, other suppliers had them in stock

I don’t know the laptop but here are some images from this video showing both sides of the motherboard and unless the CMOS battery is under the black tapes on the underside of the motherboard there doesn’t seem to be one or at least one that is obvious.

(click on image to enlarge for better viewing)

Hi ,

What is the make and model number of the freezer?

Do you mean that the temp goes from -22 to 2 and then back to -22 centigrade again?

How often does this happen?

If only once every 8-10 hours it may just be the defrost cycle in operation

The defrost cycle takes about 15-25 minutes and during this time the compressor and evaporator fan are both stopped i.e. cooling is stopped and temp rises in compartment and the defrost heater is turned on to melt the ice build up on the evaporator unit. The temp will rise from -22 to 2. Really it should not rise above 0 C as you don’t want the frozen food to even begin to thaw.

When the set temp of the defrost thermostat (or sensor) has been reached i.e. 0 deg., it signals the control board to end the defrost cycle by turning off the heater and to restart the compressor and the evaporator fan again to drive the temp back down again to the set temperature. e.g. -22deg.

-22 C is a bit cold so it may be a faulty temp sensor in the freezer. The same with the defrost sensor as it shouldn’t really go above 0 deg C.

Have you tried using a thermometer to check the temperature in the freezer if the temperatures you’re seeing are shown on a control panel, just in case there is an error in the display reading?

Hi,

Check if the temperature sensor is OK. The sensor appears to be a NTC type thermistor (Negative Temperature Co-efficient) which means that as the temperature goes up the electrical resistance value of the thermistor goes down. The resistance value of a thermistor over its designed operating temperature range is known so this is how the control board knows what the temperature is at any given temperature as the thermistor’s resistance will indicate this.

Here’s an image showing the resistance chart for 6 different thermistor models. It is only to show you how its resistance changes with the temperature. The resistance values are in K Ohms i.e Ohms x 1000. As far as I know they are not the ones used in your freezer, but I may be wrong. Check if the one in your freezer has any model or type information printed on it. You may be able to find the specifications for it by searching online for the number so that you can check if it is OK or not at the given temperature.

(click on image to enlarge for better viewing)

Unfortunately its location is not shown in the parts diagrams as it is shown as NI (not indicated) in the system diagram parts list.

Also according to the same parts supplier linked above the part number for the service data sheet is 297079601.

It shows that the temperature should be between -13C to -16C when the room ambient is between 21C to 32C. at Setting #1. (approximate Celsius temperature values converted from the Fahrenheit temps shown on data sheet)

Other than this it doesn’t give much more information apart from a very basic block diagram of the freezer components and how they’re connected with each other. The thermistor (aka temperature sensor) is also shown, along with a 9V battery??, connected to the control board.

I’ve never come across a battery in a refrigerator (or freezer) before but I was wondering if it is used to maintain the settings in the event of a power failure.

I know that this is the case in computers and when the battery gets low (or flat) it can cause all sorts of strange things to happen. So it may be worthwhile also checking it to see what voltage it is or still is. I don’t know whether it is a rechargeable or a non rechargeable but in either case they have a lifespan. Just a thought.

Hi,

I don’t know what a professional repairer would charge where you are but you may be able to fix it yourself.

Here’s the iFixit Samsung Galaxy Note9 Charging Assembly Replacement guide.

The replacement part is also available from iFixit Galaxy Note9 (US/Europe Single SIM) Charging Assembly (also see what other parts and tools are required to do the repair as is shown in the replacement guide.

There are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search for Galaxy Note 9 charge port board.

Hi @faezajackson ,

Here’s a link to the Asus X553MA repair guide that may help as it appears that the problem is on the motherboard.

The guide details the power on sequence (in both modes, battery and AC) and gives the voltage measurement locations for each step in the power on procedure.

It may come down to having to go through the sequence and find out where it fails to find out what the problem is.

Hi Sara,

It most likely means that your clutch is slipping. It means when your clutch is engaging and disengaging and no power is delivered to the wheels and as a result, the car will not move forward. In other words the revs will increase without the car accelerating. The clutch will fail due to the wear and tear and also from driving habits and driving conditions.

…both of my P2015 have gone completely insane. They stopped working like a printer at all. Random error light codes; changing error codes as time passes, etc.... I baked one of the printer’s system boards in a pre-heated oven at 400 for 7 minutes. It works perfectly now. The other was squeeling at times too, can’t wait to try it again tomorrow…

PS By system board I mean the little circuit board with 5 or so connectors/cables on the left side of the printer, remove the left plastic panel and you will see it…

Hi @returntomonke ,

Do you think that it is booting into Windows?

If so try connecting an external monitor to the laptop's HDMI port (or mini DP port) and check if it shows a display or not. Don't forget to press Fn + F8 to toggle the display between the laptop screen only, the external monitor only or both on together.

If not, can you get into BIOS on startup with a display? Press F2 on startup and check

Hi @returntomonke

It seems as though it is not starting or at least not passing POST (Power On Self Test).

Not much happens until it passes POST (which doesn’t take long) so there may not be any lights except the Power light or perhaps sometimes a blinking caps lock or power light indicating a problem if it fails during POST (blink error code)

How did you reset the BIOS?

If only by disconnecting the battery and holding the Power button operated for 15 seconds then in this instance it may not have been enough to restore the BIOS to its default values.

Try a full power refresh by disconnecting the main battery and removing the motherboard so that you can remove the CMOS battery from the underside of the motherboard. Remember the orientation of the battery before removing so that you reinsert it the right way. Usually it is +ve on top

When you have the battery out, measure its voltage and if it is <2.6V DC, replace it. It looks like a CR2032 coin cell battery so it is commonly available most everywhere. Check the type number on the battery just in case it is another type. Checking the battery voltage allows enough time for the BIOS to fully reset as now there is no power at all on the motherboard.

If you haven’t got a DMM (digital mulitmeter) then allow a minute or so, before reinserting the CMOS battery to allow the BIOS to default back to its factory default settings, hopefully restoring any settings that were corrupt and preventing a normal start

Then reinsert the CMOS battery, reinstall the motherboard, reconnect the main battery, close up the laptop and try turning it on.

Here’s an image taken from a teardown video of the laptop, showing the location of the CMOS battery on the underside of the motherboard.

(click on image to enlarge for better viewing).

If it still fails after this then it is a motherboard problem