Introduction

In the iPod Touch 5th Generation, the logic board, battery, front-facing camera, Lightning connector, speaker, headphone jack, and home button are soldered together into a single unit. Use this guide to remove the entire assembly.

Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPod's display until the whole face is covered. Image 2/3: This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display. Image 3/3: Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPod's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

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Image 1/1: Use a heat gun or hair dryer (low setting) to soften the adhesive.
  • The bottom of the screen (near the home button) is held in place with strong adhesive.

  • Use a heat gun or hair dryer (low setting) to soften the adhesive.

  • As you start prying the screen off in the next stages, you may need to apply more heat to keep the glue warm and flexible.

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Image 1/2: Press in firmly and make sure the cup has a strong seal. Image 2/2: Press in firmly and make sure the cup has a strong seal.
  • Center the suction cup on the lower section of the glass, with its edge centered over the home button.

  • Press in firmly and make sure the cup has a strong seal.

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Image 1/3: Place your thumb and index finger over the lower corners of the display to stop the display from opening too far when the adhesive breaks. Image 2/3: Lift the suction cup up and back toward the top of the iPod. Be patient, and pull with firm, constant force until the adhesive breaks and the display comes up from the rear case. Image 3/3: It may be necessary to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive (especially in cooler climates). If you can pry the screen apart, and the adhesive is still sticking and pulling apart like cheese topping on a pizza, you can slide a thin razor blade in and gently cut the adhesive.
  • Hold the iPod firmly against a table or bench.

    • Place your thumb and index finger over the lower corners of the display to stop the display from opening too far when the adhesive breaks.

  • Lift the suction cup up and back toward the top of the iPod. Be patient, and pull with firm, constant force until the adhesive breaks and the display comes up from the rear case.

    • It may be necessary to use a heat gun to soften the adhesive (especially in cooler climates). If you can pry the screen apart, and the adhesive is still sticking and pulling apart like cheese topping on a pizza, you can slide a thin razor blade in and gently cut the adhesive.

    • After the display begins to lift from the rear case, be careful not to lift more than about an inch—a fragile plastic frame still connects the display assembly to the rear case.

Step 2.5: Recover iPod from far side of the room due to suction assisted throwing.

thanks, Apple

Nick Hughes - Reply

Did as shown, button switch works fine, when I reinstall button, it's like it won't touch the switch to engage.

What next?

Gary Aguilera - Reply

I've got the same problem, managed to get the screen off, transferred the little steel plate to the new home button and put it in. The switch works fine when I press it with my finger, but it won't work with the home button??? - Did you manage to solve this problem?

Tom -

I've got the same problem. Been trying to find a solution for a few days now. Lots of people ask this question, but no one ever answers it. How did you solve it?

tirgang -

It sounds like you need to replace the home button dome switch rather than the actual home button. I'm currently searching for one myself. My customer jammed the home button and now it doesn't click. The dome switch is located on the home button ribbon cable and not on the home button.

Mary Baldwin -

The "home button" repair shows the physical button, but it's not actually the repair for the switch, which is what should be shown as the home button repair. The switch has a little black plastic tab that breaks off with excessive presses, and that's why the button plate cannot engage the switch when the screen is reinstalled. You will need to replace the switch, or modify it with something small enough to press the switch when the LCD is lowered.

Rene -

I also ran in to the Home button not working issue. I have not idea what changed with the button, but it would not work (from the outside) after the battery replacement & re-assembling. If you opened the iPod up, you could press the switch directly and it clicked & worked, but it seemed finicky. I ended up putting the tiniest dot of hot melt on the center of the switch (smaller than the switch 'dome', and thin too, maybe 0.6-0.7mm thick), re-assembled, and it works fine now.

Jeff Brown -

Use the hair dryer or a heat gun to loosen the adhesive. This did not work with just a suction cup for me.

Dmitry Fedoruk - Reply

All good... But. All I wanted was to replace the cracked camera lens glass. Where in the guide is the instructions for the lens GLASS.

kwylie - Reply

I also had to use a heat gun and the opening tool instead of just a suction cup to open the assembly. The rest of the guide worked really well!

When putting back together, make sure the display connector is in firm or you might get lines. And also, perform a hard reset - my power wasn't working, I took it apart and checked the power flex cable, but all it needed was a hard reset when put back together.

Tyler Weaver - Reply

use a razor blade to pry. there is a huge amount of leverage, and the old frame is most likely trash.

trogfield - Reply

Suction cup and hair dryer method never worked for me. Even tried my heat gun. Finger went numb before I gave up. Used thin prying + suction cup and eventually opened it but screen cracked in the process when I was too aggressive opening it.

In hind-sight, it would have been very helpful to know that the adhesive is just in the 2 areas to either side of the home button, nothing along the edges.

Biggest complaint is the time wasted, should have just bought a replacement iPod, better return on my money/time.

James Quinlan - Reply

The adhesive strips are only located to the left and right of the home button. Imagine two small squares of tape in each corner. Be careful heating. I used a heat gun on the lowest heat, but I think I may have overheated the area and damaged the digitizer on the bottom of the screen. I now have small green lines on that section of the screen. I too had to use a thin metal spudger to release the adhesive.

muck - Reply

Image 1/3: Starting at the top right of the device, insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the plastic frame and the aluminum rear case. Image 2/3: Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case. Image 3/3: Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case.
  • In the following steps, you will be loosening and freeing the plastic frame that surrounds the screen. It is connected to the rear case with several clips.

  • Starting at the top right of the device, insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the plastic frame and the aluminum rear case.

  • Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case.

Careful! This piece is super fragile. It really helps to understand the way the clips work. I struggled for 10 min with not a single un-clip, snapped the plastic frame in 2 places because I didn't understand the clips, and as soon as I figured out how they work the piece was off like a prom dress.

The clips are metal n shapes around the outside of the frame. They need to be pushed away from the center of the device to release the frame. You need to get something in between the plastic and clip to release, a guitar pick is probably too thick. A thin opening device would probably work but I used a razor blade. I'm not sure if these clips are on all of the newer Apple devices, but I've never encountered one before (usually work on android devices.)

I hope this helps prevent someone from having to replace the frame.

nlw93 - Reply

I wish I had read this comment before I broke my frame, hah! It made sense once I had the clips out, but while they were still in it was mystifying. Thankfully it won't be too big of a problem since all of the frame will still clip in, it just won't be connected.

Joshua Horan -

Image 1/2: Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear case. Image 2/2: This may not free the clip initially, but repeating the procedure for each clip will begin to loosen the piece.
  • Insert the plastic opening tool between the frame and the rear case behind the first clip.

  • Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear case.

  • This may not free the clip initially, but repeating the procedure for each clip will begin to loosen the piece.

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Image 1/2: You may have to go back and forth between the clips to free all of them. Take your time and be careful and patient, as the plastic frame is quite fragile. Image 2/2: You may have to go back and forth between the clips to free all of them. Take your time and be careful and patient, as the plastic frame is quite fragile.
  • Repeat the procedure with the next two clips on this side.

  • You may have to go back and forth between the clips to free all of them. Take your time and be careful and patient, as the plastic frame is quite fragile.

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Image 1/3: Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case. Image 2/3: Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case. Image 3/3: Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case.
  • Moving on to the left side of the device, insert a plastic opening tool into the gap between the plastic frame and the aluminum rear case near the top.

  • Slide the tool down this crack, loosening the frame from the case.

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Image 1/2: Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear case. Image 2/2: Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear case.
  • Insert the plastic opening tool between the frame and the rear case behind the first clip on the left side.

  • Rock the tool sideways, to spread the gap behind the clip and separate it from the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Insert the plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and aluminum rear case behind the second clip. Image 2/2: Rock the tool sideways, loosening the clip from the case.
  • Repeat the procedure with the next two clips on this side.

  • Insert the plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and aluminum rear case behind the second clip.

  • Rock the tool sideways, loosening the clip from the case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Using the same procedure, loosen the last clip securing the plastic frame to the rear case.

this looks more like a 5th gen instead of 6th gen :-)

iBar - Reply

They have the exact same dimensions.

Jayson Saavedra - Reply

do you think if i use reolacement scren of itouch 5th gen to my itou h 6th gen this would work? i cant find screen for itouch 6th gen so im thnking to use the screen of 5th gen pls help me

alm yuwysha -

Image 1/3: Slightly twist the opening tool to pry the front panel up from the rear case. Image 2/3: Separate the display assembly from the iPod. Image 3/3: Do not try to completely remove the front panel, as it is still connected by several cables.
  • Insert the plastic opening tool between the display assembly and the rear case near the top of the iPod.

  • Slightly twist the opening tool to pry the front panel up from the rear case.

  • Separate the display assembly from the iPod.

    • Do not try to completely remove the front panel, as it is still connected by several cables.

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Image 1/2: Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button switch up from the LCD plate. Image 2/2: It may be necessary to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive on the back of the home button. Always use a low heat setting.
  • Gently fold the display over away from the rest of the iPod, taking care not to disconnect or break any of the ribbon cables. Set the two halves flat on a table or bench.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button switch up from the LCD plate.

    • It may be necessary to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive on the back of the home button. Always use a low heat setting.

  • Do not attempt to remove the home button switch, as it is connected to components below the LCD plate.

If you have trouble lifting the home button switch up with the plastic opening tool, you can try using an opening pick instead.

matthew - Reply

Hi I just replaced my screen on my ipod touch 5th gen and i connect all the ribbon chords and every thing and when i connect one of the ribbons from the screen to the motherboard the motherboard starts to get hot! The screen isnt actually fully on, I wanted to make sure it turned on before I snapped it back in place. Any ideas? When I disconnect the ribbon the temp goes down. Screen is an OEM screen from Apple. I read somewhere, and i have personally have done it, that you can short the battery on the ipod touch 4th and it fixes it but im not sure on the 5th.

Eddie - Reply

I have the same problem. I am going to change the battery. I let you to know if it solved the problem. Please let me know if you solve your problem. Thanks

ismael452000 - Reply

Eddie, Did you ever fix this? I have exactly the same issue, Board gets hot and screen remains black. Although i did Hear Siri and iTunes recognises it.

Dave - Reply

You need to make sure that all the adhesive covers for the battery and the board are on so that it isn't shorting with the metal cover, this may fix some issues with the board / battery heating up a lot and display not working. I just put some electrical tape over the batter solder and screen cables so that it's all in place properly and no shorting of electric terminal points on the board.

Ben -

Image 1/1: Two 1.2 mm #00 Phillips screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the LCD plate to the rear case:

    • Two 1.2 mm #00 Phillips screws

    • Nine 1.6 mm #00 Phillips screws

    • One 2.3 mm #00 Phillips screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Lift up and remove the LCD plate from the iPod.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove three 1.6 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the logic board to the rear case.

Hi, the MPN on that WiFi flex confirms this is not an iPod Touch 6th gen, it is 5th Gen. I am trying to source a 6th Gen WiFi Flex.

Ricky Pohlman - Reply

Image 1/1: Turn the iPod over and heat the BACK of the aluminium iPod case. ''Do not heat the battery''.
  • There are two strips of adhesive keeping the battery in place.

  • Turn the iPod over and heat the BACK of the aluminium iPod case. Do not heat the battery.

    • The aluminium case does not have to be hot; you should always be able to touch heated parts with your fingers at all times without it being uncomfortable.

Instead of a heat gun or hair dryer, I used a rice sock (http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Rice-Sock) to apply heat evenly across the entire back of the case while the case still sat upright for me to work on getting the battery loose. It was a lot easier than trying to heat the back of the case, then flip the case over and work feverishly before it cooled.

ealaney - Reply

Image 1/2: The battery is secured with large amounts of adhesive, so you'll need to go slowly and carefully to avoid puncturing or creasing the battery. Image 2/2: Insert a plastic opening tool into the top right notch and gently pry up on the battery.
  • There are three notches on either side of the battery. In the next few steps, you will be using these notches to gradually pry the battery up from the rear case.

  • The battery is secured with large amounts of adhesive, so you'll need to go slowly and carefully to avoid puncturing or creasing the battery.

  • Insert a plastic opening tool into the top right notch and gently pry up on the battery.

  • Do not attempt to pry up the entire battery at this point; you just want to start to loosen the adhesive at each of the prying points, in turn.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Continue with the lower right notch. Insert the plastic opening tool into the notch, and gently pry up on the side of the battery.

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Image 1/2: When prying along the bottom, be careful not to press down too hard against the speaker or headphone jack. Image 2/2: When prying along the bottom, be careful not to press down too hard against the speaker or headphone jack.
  • Continue prying the battery up from the bottom.

  • When prying along the bottom, be careful not to press down too hard against the speaker or headphone jack.

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Image 1/2: You may need to move back and forth between the sides and bottom of the battery, prying a small amount at a time until the battery is entirely free from the adhesive. Image 2/2: You may need to move back and forth between the sides and bottom of the battery, prying a small amount at a time until the battery is entirely free from the adhesive.
  • Pry along the left side as well.

  • You may need to move back and forth between the sides and bottom of the battery, prying a small amount at a time until the battery is entirely free from the adhesive.

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Image 1/3: Be sure not to yank it out, as it is soldered to the logic board. Image 2/3: Flip the battery over to straighten its cable and set it down. Image 3/3: Flip the battery over to straighten its cable and set it down.
  • Once all of the adhesive is loosened, lift the battery up from the bottom and swing it out over the left side of the rear case.

  • Be sure not to yank it out, as it is soldered to the logic board.

  • Flip the battery over to straighten its cable and set it down.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the front-facing camera out of its socket in the display assembly.

My camera ceased to work after this. Anybody have the same issue?

JavierDiaz4 - Reply

A reboot can sometimes work. Once the camera is seen not to be working (say it was connected after the device goes to sleep), the iPod gives up trying to show any live images from the either front or rear cameras

mark -

How do you replace the front facing camera

brandon landry - Reply

I have a similar issue, the rear camera doesn't work and the facing camera sometimes works but very slow...everything else works well.

Any ideas on how to fix this problem?

carlos lima - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to peel back a small piece of tape covering a screw on the side of the headphone jack.

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Image 1/1: Three 2.6 mm #00 Phillips screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the headphone jack, Lightning connector, and speaker.

    • Three 2.6 mm #00 Phillips screws

    • Two 2.0 mm #00 Phillips screws

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Image 1/1: Do not try to remove the speaker, as it is soldered to the Lightning connector assembly.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the speaker up from the rear case.

  • Do not try to remove the speaker, as it is soldered to the Lightning connector assembly.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Grasping the large ribbon cable, gently pull the Lightning connector assembly out of the bottom of the case.

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Image 1/2: Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable from the logic board. Image 2/2: Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable from the logic board.
  • Flip the entire assembly over, exposing the back of the logic board.

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable from the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display cable from its socket in the logic board.

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Image 1/3: The display cable is lightly adhered to the top of the logic board. Image 2/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the display cable up from the logic board. Image 3/3: Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the display cable up from the logic board.
  • Flip the Lightning connector/logic board assembly back over to expose the top of the logic board.

  • The display cable is lightly adhered to the top of the logic board.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to peel the display cable up from the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the display assembly from the iPod.

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Image 1/1: Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the antenna connector off the back of the logic board.
  • Flip the logic board assembly back over to expose the connectors on the back.

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the antenna connector off the back of the logic board.

  • This cable is very delicate; be careful not to stress the point where it connects to the antenna.

where can I buy a new logic board

Muhammad saad Waheed - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Disconnect the button ribbon cable connector from the back of the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the display connector from the back of the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the logic board assembly from the rear case of the iPod.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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Step 33: If you replace the logic board you will necessarily need to desolder and resolder the battery and Lighting Connector cable. A new logic board will not come with these two items attached. See Old Turkey's reply to my question on this subject...

Soldering Techniques for Battery and Lightning Connector

fasthans - Reply

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