iPhone 5c Rear Case Replacement

Replace a scratched or damaged iPhone 5c rear case.

Use this guide to replace a scratched or damaged rear case on your iPhone 5c.

This guide requires removing the battery. Removing the battery with the adhesive strips is the safest method, but also leaves your battery without adhesive. When replacing your battery, use a piece of double-sided tape to secure it. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but the tape will keep it from rattling.

Edit Step 1 Display Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/3: If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

Edit Step 1 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the two 3.8 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 3.8 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

Edit Step 3 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

Image 1/3: The next two steps demonstrate using the [product|IF145-243|iSclack], a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. '''If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to step 5.'''

Edit Step 3 iSclack Opening Procedure  ¶ 

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to step 5.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

Edit Step 4  ¶ 

  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on step 7.

Edit Step 5 Manual Opening Procedure  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

Edit Step 5 Manual Opening Procedure  ¶ 

  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.

Edit Step 8  ¶ 

  • Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.

  • During the next few steps, until you remove the front panel assembly, keep it supported at a 90º angle in relation to the rear case.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Two 1.3 mm screws

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.25 mm screw

  • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

  • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size, don't force them.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

  • Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable.

    • The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the digitizer connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.

  • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Edit Step 13  ¶ 

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Edit Step 14 SIM Card  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Shut your phone down completely before removing the SIM card and tray.

Edit Step 14 SIM Card  ¶ 

  • Shut your phone down completely before removing the SIM card and tray.

  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press the SIM card eject tool inwards to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

  • During reassembly, ensure that the SIM card is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Edit Step 16 Battery Connector  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

Edit Step 16 Battery Connector  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector up off the logic board.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector up off the logic board.

Edit Step 19 SIM Ejector  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the 2.0 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the SIM ejector.

Edit Step 19 SIM Ejector  ¶ 

  • Remove the 2.0 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the SIM ejector.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Use a set of tweezers to remove the SIM ejector from the phone.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • Use a set of tweezers to remove the SIM ejector from the phone.

  • Note the orientation for reassembly: the raised portion of the ejector should be closest to the bottom of the phone.

Edit Step 21 Battery  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab.

Edit Step 21 Battery  ¶ 

  • Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

Image 1/1:

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Pull the battery adhesive tab away from the phone.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Do not twist the tab; try to keep the adhesive strip as flat and wide as possible. When the adhesive bunches up it tends to tear.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Pull the innermost tab evenly straight up.

  • Do not twist the tab; try to keep the adhesive strip as flat and wide as possible. When the adhesive bunches up it tends to tear.

  • Be sure you do not pull the tab against any of the components of the phone—they may puncture the adhesive and cause the strip to tear.

  • Pull the battery tab at about a 45º angle until the strip is entirely freed from the phone.

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 25  ¶ 

  • Pull the second, outermost battery adhesive tab up and out until it is freed from the phone.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the battery from your iPhone.

Edit Step 26  ¶ 

  • Remove the battery from your iPhone.

  • If one, or both, of the adhesive strips tears, and you are unable to retrieve it with a set of tweezers, do not pry the battery out of the phone. Continue on to the next steps to safely remove your battery.

Edit Step 27 Battery removal with latent adhesive  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Follow our [guide|11677|iOpener heating instructions] to safely warm the adhesive securing your battery to the rear case.

Edit Step 27 Battery removal with latent adhesive  ¶ 

  • Follow our iOpener heating instructions to safely warm the adhesive securing your battery to the rear case.

  • Be careful when handling the bag, as it will be quite hot.

  • Lay the iOpener flat on the backside of the iPhone to the right of the camera. Smooth it out so that there is good contact between the back of the iPhone and the iOpener.

  • Let the bag sit on the iPhone for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to remove the battery.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Carefully wedge a plastic card under the battery on the side nearest the logic board.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Carefully wedge a plastic card under the battery on the side nearest the logic board.

  • Slide the card from the top of the battery to the bottom, pushing toward the edge of the case.

  • If necessary, repeat the same procedure with the case side of the battery.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Lift and remove the battery from the iPhone.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Lift and remove the battery from the iPhone.

  • There should be no resistance. If the battery remains stuck, reheat the iOpener and pry again.

Edit Step 30 Lightning Connector Assembly  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Use a plastic opening tool to peel the home button spring contact cable up from the speaker enclosure.

Edit Step 30 Lightning Connector Assembly  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to peel the home button spring contact cable up from the speaker enclosure.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the following screws securing the speaker enclosure to the rear case:

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the speaker enclosure to the rear case:

    • Two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws

    • One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the speaker enclosure up from the rear case.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the speaker enclosure up from the rear case.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Remove the speaker enclosure. Be careful not to snag it on the antenna cable.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the speaker enclosure. Be careful not to snag it on the antenna cable.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

Image 1/2: The far right screw hole on the speaker has a contact bracket wrapped around it. Remove it and note the orientation for reassembly.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • The far right screw hole on the speaker has a contact bracket wrapped around it. Remove it and note the orientation for reassembly.

    • The flat portion of the contact clip should rest against the speaker, as shown.

  • The alignment bracket on the far end of the speaker assembly is adhered, but may fall off if handled aggressively.

    • The angled end should face up and line up with the outside edge of the speaker.

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

Image 1/2: The Lightning connector cable is lightly adhered to a shield on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the cable up.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • The Lightning connector cable is lightly adhered to a shield on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the cable up.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna connector from the base of the logic board.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna connector from the base of the logic board.

Edit Step 38  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the following screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case:

Edit Step 38  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case:

    • Two 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screws

    • One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

Edit Step 39  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Gently peel the Lightning connector assembly up from the rear case.

Edit Step 39  ¶ 

  • Gently peel the Lightning connector assembly up from the rear case.

Edit Step 40  ¶ 

Image 1/2: You may need to use the flat end of a spudger to completely free the assembly.

Edit Step 40  ¶ 

  • You may need to use the flat end of a spudger to completely free the assembly.

Edit Step 41  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

Edit Step 41  ¶ 

  • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

Edit Step 42 Logic Board  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 42 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Disconnect the rear facing camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

Image 1/1: A small piece of tape may obscure the logic board grounding clip. If so, use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape.

Edit Step 43  ¶ 

  • A small piece of tape may obscure the logic board grounding clip. If so, use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape.

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Remove the following screws securing the logic board grounding clip to the rear case:

Edit Step 44  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board grounding clip to the rear case:

    • 1.2 mm Phillips #000 in the top side-wall

    • 2.5 mm Phillips #000

Edit Step 45  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Use tweezers to remove the logic board grounding clip.

Edit Step 45  ¶ 

  • Use tweezers to remove the logic board grounding clip.

Edit Step 46  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

Edit Step 46  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

    • Three 2.7 mm standoff screws

      • These screws have a Phillips bit pattern, but we found the best removal tool to be a 2.5 mm flathead driver.

      • When putting the standoffs back in, it helps to use the tip of a spudger like a screwdriver to get them started.

Edit Step 47  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Holding the phone level, lift the bottom end of the logic board up enough to grasp it with your fingers.

Edit Step 47  ¶ 

  • Holding the phone level, lift the bottom end of the logic board up enough to grasp it with your fingers.

  • Pull the logic board away from the rear-facing camera just enough to expose the gold contact cap under the top end of the board.

  • Remove the gold-colored contact cap from the threaded post in the rear case, and set it aside.

Edit Step 48  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Flip the logic board up toward the volume control buttons to expose the antenna connector.

Edit Step 48  ¶ 

  • Flip the logic board up toward the volume control buttons to expose the antenna connector.

  • Do not try to remove the logic board from the rear case yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back.

Edit Step 49  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Disconnect the antenna connector from the back of the logic board.

Edit Step 49  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the antenna connector from the back of the logic board.

Edit Step 50  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the logic board from the rear case.

Edit Step 50  ¶ 

  • Remove the logic board from the rear case.

Edit Step 51 Upper Component Cable  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear camera cover to the rear case.

Edit Step 51 Upper Component Cable  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear camera cover to the rear case.

Edit Step 52  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the rear facing camera cover.

Edit Step 52  ¶ 

  • Remove the rear facing camera cover.

Edit Step 53  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the rear facing camera.

Edit Step 53  ¶ 

  • Remove the rear facing camera.

Edit Step 54  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the following screws securing the vibrator motor to the rear case:

Edit Step 54  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the vibrator motor to the rear case:

    • 1.2 mm Phillips #000

    • 2.2 mm Phillips #000

Edit Step 55  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the vibrator motor.

Edit Step 55  ¶ 

  • Remove the vibrator motor.

Edit Step 56  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the following screws securing the upper assembly contact bracket to the rear case:

Edit Step 56  ¶ 

  • Remove the following screws securing the upper assembly contact bracket to the rear case:

    • 3.0 mm standoff screw

      • Use a 2.5 mm flathead screwdriver for this screw.

    • 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw

Edit Step 57  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Remove the upper assembly contact bracket from the rear case.

Edit Step 57  ¶ 

  • Remove the upper assembly contact bracket from the rear case.

  • A small rubber bumper may fall off the top of the bracket—take care not to lose it.

Edit Step 58  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove any foam tape obscuring the screws near the camera cavity.

Edit Step 58  ¶ 

  • Remove any foam tape obscuring the screws near the camera cavity.

Edit Step 59  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the power/sleep button bracket.

Edit Step 59  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the power/sleep button bracket.

Edit Step 60  ¶ 

Image 1/3: Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently fold the power/sleep button bracket down from the top of the rear case.

Edit Step 60  ¶ 

  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently fold the power/sleep button bracket down from the top of the rear case.

  • Use tweezers to grab and remove the button.

    • For reassembly, note the orientation—the metal bar should be flush with the bottom of the button.

  • If you can't get a hold on the power button from inside the case, use a spudger to slightly push it in from the outside.

Edit Step 61  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws from the hold switch bracket.

Edit Step 61  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws from the hold switch bracket.

Edit Step 62  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Remove this hold button bracket clip and set it aside.

Edit Step 62  ¶ 

  • Remove this hold button bracket clip and set it aside.

    • During reassembly, the bracket clip goes over the hold switch bracket. Ensure the angled portion is to the right.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the hold switch bracket down.

Edit Step 63  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Use tweezers to remove the hold switch.

Edit Step 63  ¶ 

  • Use tweezers to remove the hold switch.

  • Note the orientation for reassembly: The red line should be at the top of the button. The notch in the back of the hold switch button should be in the same position as, and mate with, the mechanical switch on the cable.

Edit Step 64  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the volume rocker bracket to the side wall.

Edit Step 64  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the volume rocker bracket to the side wall.

Edit Step 65  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Use the tip of a spudger to fold the volume rocker bracket down from the side wall. Remove the volume rocker.

Edit Step 65  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to fold the volume rocker bracket down from the side wall. Remove the volume rocker.

Edit Step 66  ¶ 

Image 1/2:

Edit Step 66  ¶ 

  • Use the tip of a spudger to peel the power/sleep button cable off of the rear case.

Edit Step 67  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Run a spudger gently under the flash assembly cable to separate it from the phone.

Edit Step 67  ¶ 

  • Run a spudger gently under the flash assembly cable to separate it from the phone.

Edit Step 68  ¶ 

Image 1/2: Peel the upper assembly cable up from right to left to separate the adhesive holding it to the case.

Edit Step 68  ¶ 

  • Peel the upper assembly cable up from right to left to separate the adhesive holding it to the case.

Edit Step 69  ¶ 

Image 1/1: Take extra care in peeling the vibrator contact end of the cable off of the phone.

Edit Step 69  ¶ 

  • Take extra care in peeling the vibrator contact end of the cable off of the phone.

  • Do not touch the contacts; finger oils can corrode the metal and prevent a solid connection.

  • You can now remove the assembly from the phone.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 5c device page.

Required Tools

Spudger

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Small Suction Cup

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Tweezers

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$29.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

dantello, · Reply

Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

duston,

I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

Harold Wallner, · Reply

This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

vince,

There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

piet, · Reply

Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

duston,

The battery does not have to be removed for the lightning connector replacement.

Loganblue, · Reply

I agree. No need to remove the battery. You can skip steps 19-30

Wade, · Reply

But ,will it be simple if I want to put a new camera in it?

A1pine, · Reply

I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!

lew, · Reply

When I tried to remove the adhesive, it snapped on both sides. Even though I was careful not to bend or twist. But now the battery is still stuck in place. What do I do now?

lynn, · Reply

Keep reading; there are some additional steps you can take toward the end of the guide. The battery is much easier to remove if you keep the pull tabs intact, but they can be tricky.

Jeff Suovanen,

My tabs broke. I had to pry the battery out. Took my time and it came out okay. The adhesive residue was a pain to remove though.

mwtort, · Reply

My tabs broke as well, quite close to the battery's lower corners. Then I discovered a reasonably hot surface to place the phone - my quite old Apple Airport Extreme. I warmed the phone for a couple of 3 minute sessions, that didn't loosen the glue but made it more malleable. Then proceeded to carefully pull the tab on the logic board's side with tweezers, which was a success. After that I could get an old ID card under the battery and push the other tab into itself. That done, the glue basically gave out and the battery was free.

So my advice would be to use some sort of heat before pulling on the tabs, which will make them a bit easier to work with. It does take some time but result counts, right?

jukkaharkonen, · Reply

When reversing this and reseating the new component, you really need to give it a push to lock in. Just touching the connectors will make most of the phone work, but you need to have the connector locked in completely for the home button to activate

Loganblue, · Reply

This is not the wifi antenna. This is the primary cellular antenna.

Tom Chai, · Reply

Don't forget to remove the WiFi antenna. In the photo you'll see a circular shape directly to the left of the antenna cable connector. Lift this piece of tape and remove the screw underneath. You can remove the antenna with your spudger.

edunbarr, · Reply

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