Introduction

Use this guide to replace a scratched or damaged rear case on your iPhone 5c.

This guide requires removing the battery. The adhesive strips securing the battery are not re-usable, so you'll want to have a supply of replacement adhesive strips on hand before you begin. Alternatively, you can secure the battery using a piece of double-sided tape. The battery is pretty tightly secured in the device, but the tape will keep it from rattling.

You can also use this guide for reference when replacing the power button grounding cable.

Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. Image 2/3: This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display. Image 3/3: Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 3.8 mm Pentalobe screws next to the Lightning connector.

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Image 1/3: Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws. Image 2/3: Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge. Image 3/3: The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.
  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

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Image 1/2: The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables. Image 2/2: Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.
  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

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Image 1/1: Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.
  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

cool i diden't now

Ben Lewis Murray Dyne - Reply

Image 1/2: While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case. Image 2/2: Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.
  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

Dan - Reply

Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

duston -

Image 1/1: Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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Image 1/2: Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone. Image 2/2: In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.
  • Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

Joe Shirghio - Reply

I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

Michael Allen - Reply

Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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Image 1/1:
  • Use the flat edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector up off the logic board.

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Image 1/1: Two 1.3 mm screws
  • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.25 mm screw

  • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

  • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size, don't force them.

In step 9: I think you are talking about the 3,25 and 1,7mm one not the 1,3 and the 1,7mm?

Siegbert Waldner - Reply

DO NOT Remove the battery, there is no need to and can cause unnecessary damage! There's a tutorial on YouTube that does it without!

Alister Malcolm - Reply

I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

jacobstevens - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Be sure to '''only''' pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Be sure to '''only''' pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

  • Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/3: The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display. Image 2/3: When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery. Image 3/3: When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the LCD cable connector.

    • The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.

  • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

Harold Wallner - Reply

This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

vince -

There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

piet - Reply

Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

duston -

When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

jimbbo - Reply

If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

iBroke -

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Image 2/2: Press the SIM card eject tool inwards to eject the tray.
  • Shut your phone down completely before removing the SIM card and tray.

  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press the SIM card eject tool inwards to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

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Image 1/1: During reassembly, ensure that the SIM card is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.
  • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

  • During reassembly, ensure that the SIM card is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 2.0 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the SIM ejector.

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Image 1/1: Note the orientation for reassembly: the raised portion of the ejector should be closest to the bottom of the phone.
  • Use a set of tweezers to remove the SIM ejector from the phone.

  • Note the orientation for reassembly: the raised portion of the ejector should be closest to the bottom of the phone.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Run the tip of a spudger between the battery and the headphone jack to unfold the battery adhesive tab.

I didn't need to remove the battery to replace the lightning connector assembly. Skip past steps 17 through 25.

jacobstevens - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Pull the battery adhesive tab away from the phone.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Cut the black battery adhesive tab between the two white adhesive strips, separating them.

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Image 1/2: Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone. Image 2/2: Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.
  • Try to keep the strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

  • Slowly pull one of the battery adhesive strips away from the battery, toward the bottom of the iPhone.

  • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip as it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at a 60º angle or less.

  • Guide the strip carefully around the corner and up the side of the battery. Be careful not to snag it on any of the other internal iPhone components.

  • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling, re-grabbing the strip near the battery if necessary, until the entire strip comes free.

I pulled the first tab straight up and it snapped. I tried to see if I could pry the battery out but couldn't without bending the battery. So I left the battery in and was able to complete this without removing it. However, I'm pretty sure I damaged the battery. Waiting on the replacement battery now to confirm. Long story short, leave the battery in for this fix!

lew - Reply

When I tried to remove the adhesive, it snapped on both sides. Even though I was careful not to bend or twist. But now the battery is still stuck in place. What do I do now?

lynn - Reply

Keep reading; there are some additional steps you can take toward the end of the guide. The battery is much easier to remove if you keep the pull tabs intact, but they can be tricky.

Jeff Suovanen -

My tabs broke. I had to pry the battery out. Took my time and it came out okay. The adhesive residue was a pain to remove though.

mwtort - Reply

My tabs broke as well, quite close to the battery's lower corners. Then I discovered a reasonably hot surface to place the phone - my quite old Apple Airport Extreme. I warmed the phone for a couple of 3 minute sessions, that didn't loosen the glue but made it more malleable. Then proceeded to carefully pull the tab on the logic board's side with tweezers, which was a success. After that I could get an old ID card under the battery and push the other tab into itself. That done, the glue basically gave out and the battery was free.

So my advice would be to use some sort of heat before pulling on the tabs, which will make them a bit easier to work with. It does take some time but result counts, right?

jukkaharkonen - Reply

This is the most awful thing: removing the battery. The adhesive holds sooo strong. I ripped it off very soon. So i heated the back of the iPhone with a hair dryer up and opened the battery with scissors. Then i could draw the battery off.

5c is much better to repair then my last repaired iPhone. A 3gs :-)

Tanx ifixit. You are the best.

Achim Graether - Reply

I don't thnk we need Steps 9 to 12 to remove the battery

Leave the display attached is you only need to replace the battery !!!

lmusolino -

@lmusolino of course you can skip those steps (9-12) but it's risky for those digitizer to be damaged if you are careless while removing the battery.

John Mark Booc -

This was more tricky than I thought. I bent the original battery quite hard to get it of, while blowing the phone with a hair dryer. I fixed two 5c's for my kids and I ordered one kit and a extra battery. I didn't understand when ordering that just one pair of adhesive strips came along, with the kit. I partial them using one strip each on the phones. Hope that it will work. Everything seems to work with the phones.

Peter Rousu - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Repeat to remove the second strip.

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Image 1/1: If one, or both, of the adhesive strips tears, and you are unable to retrieve it with a set of tweezers, '''do not pry''' the battery out of the phone. Continue on to the next steps to safely remove your battery.
  • Remove the battery from your iPhone.

  • If one, or both, of the adhesive strips tears, and you are unable to retrieve it with a set of tweezers, do not pry the battery out of the phone. Continue on to the next steps to safely remove your battery.

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Image 1/1: Be careful when handling the bag, as it will be quite hot.
  • Follow our iOpener heating instructions to safely warm the adhesive securing your battery to the rear case.

  • Be careful when handling the bag, as it will be quite hot.

  • Lay the iOpener flat on the backside of the iPhone to the right of the camera. Smooth it out so that there is good contact between the back of the iPhone and the iOpener.

  • Let the bag sit on the iPhone for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to remove the battery.

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Image 1/2: Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone. Image 2/2: Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+5c+Upper+Component+Cable+Replacement/23004#s60463|upper component ribbon cable|new_window=true].
  • Carefully wedge a plastic card under the battery on the side nearest the logic board.

    • Do not pry against the logic board or you may damage the phone.

    • Avoid prying near the top edge of the battery, or you may damage the upper component ribbon cable.

  • Slide the card from the top of the battery to the bottom, pushing toward the edge of the case.

  • If necessary, repeat the same procedure with the case side of the battery.

A picture of the position of the upper ribbon cable would be useful here. I have falsely thought that you only have to be careful around the top edge of the battery that is near the logic board, and have managed to cut the upper component cable with the plastic card.. :(

Daniel Boros - Reply

The third bullet of this step has a link to two photos of the cable.

Jeff Suovanen -

Image 1/1: There should be no resistance. If the battery remains stuck, reheat the iOpener and pry again.
  • Lift and remove the battery from the iPhone.

  • There should be no resistance. If the battery remains stuck, reheat the iOpener and pry again.

  • When installing the battery, refer to this guide to replace your battery's adhesive strips.

  • Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use a plastic opening tool to peel the home button spring contact cable up from the speaker enclosure.

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Image 1/1: Two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the speaker enclosure to the rear case:

    • Two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws

    • One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

These screws didn't fit our brand new Phillips #000 at all, but they did fit a J #000 just fine.

Daniel Beardsley - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the speaker enclosure up from the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the speaker enclosure. Be careful not to snag it on the antenna cable.

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Image 1/2: The flat portion of the contact clip should rest against the speaker, as shown. Image 2/2: The alignment bracket on the far end of the speaker assembly is adhered, but may fall off if handled aggressively.
  • The far right screw hole on the speaker has a contact bracket wrapped around it. Remove it and note the orientation for reassembly.

    • The flat portion of the contact clip should rest against the speaker, as shown.

  • The alignment bracket on the far end of the speaker assembly is adhered, but may fall off if handled aggressively.

    • The angled end should face up and line up with the outside edge of the speaker.

Why remove this microscopic bracket? That was the hardest part of the whole job. Just keep it on, but alert people to its presence to ensure they don't let it slip off. But putting it back on was a pain.

jacobstevens - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • The Lightning connector cable is lightly adhered to a shield on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the cable up.

When reversing this and reseating the new component, you really need to give it a push to lock in. Just touching the connectors will make most of the phone work, but you need to have the connector locked in completely for the home button to activate

Loganblue - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Disconnect the cellular antenna connector from the base of the logic board.

This is not the wifi antenna. This is the primary cellular antenna.

Tom Chai - Reply

Image 1/1: Two 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the Lightning connector to the rear case:

    • Two 3.4 mm Phillips #000 screws

    • One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Gently peel the Lightning connector assembly up from the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • You may need to use the flat end of a spudger to completely free the assembly.

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Image 1/2: There is a small rubber gasket attached to the microphone. Be sure to transfer it to the new assembly. Image 2/2: There is a small rubber gasket attached to the microphone. Be sure to transfer it to the new assembly.
  • Remove the Lightning connector assembly.

  • There is a small rubber gasket attached to the microphone. Be sure to transfer it to the new assembly.

Pay close attention to the orientation of the microphone gasket.

There is also a small rubber gasket on the headphone jack that should also be transferred.

ypolashek - Reply

Image 1/2: Disconnect the rear facing camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Disconnect the rear facing camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Disconnect the rear facing camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • A small piece of tape may obscure the logic board grounding clip. If so, use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape.

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Image 1/2: 1.2 mm Phillips #000 in the top side-wall Image 2/2: 2.5 mm Phillips #000
  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board grounding clip to the rear case:

    • 1.2 mm Phillips #000 in the top side-wall

    • 2.5 mm Phillips #000

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Image 1/1:
  • Use tweezers to remove the logic board grounding clip.

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Image 1/1: Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws
  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

    • Three 2.7 mm standoff screws

      • These screws have a Phillips bit pattern, but we found the best removal tool to be a 2.5 mm flathead driver.

      • When putting the standoffs back in, it helps to use the tip of a spudger like a screwdriver to get them started.

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Image 1/3: Pull the logic board away from the rear-facing camera just enough to expose the gold contact cap under the top end of the board. Image 2/3: Remove the gold-colored contact cap from the threaded post in the rear case, and set it aside. Image 3/3: Remove the gold-colored contact cap from the threaded post in the rear case, and set it aside.
  • Holding the phone level, lift the bottom end of the logic board up enough to grasp it with your fingers.

  • Pull the logic board away from the rear-facing camera just enough to expose the gold contact cap under the top end of the board.

  • Remove the gold-colored contact cap from the threaded post in the rear case, and set it aside.

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Image 1/2: Do not try to remove the logic board from the rear case yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back. Image 2/2: Do not try to remove the logic board from the rear case yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back.
  • Flip the logic board up toward the volume control buttons to expose the antenna connector.

  • Do not try to remove the logic board from the rear case yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back.

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Image 1/1:
  • Disconnect the antenna connector from the back of the logic board.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the logic board from the rear case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the rear camera cover to the rear case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the rear facing camera cover.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the rear facing camera.

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Image 1/1: 1.2 mm Phillips #000
  • Remove the following screws securing the vibrator motor to the rear case:

    • 1.2 mm Phillips #000

    • 2.2 mm Phillips #000

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the vibrator motor.

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Image 1/1: 3.0 mm standoff screw
  • Remove the following screws securing the upper assembly contact bracket to the rear case:

    • 3.0 mm standoff screw

      • Use a 2.5 mm flathead screwdriver for this screw.

    • 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw

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Image 1/2: A small rubber bumper may fall off the top of the bracket—take care not to lose it. Image 2/2: A small rubber bumper may fall off the top of the bracket—take care not to lose it.
  • Remove the upper assembly contact bracket from the rear case.

  • A small rubber bumper may fall off the top of the bracket—take care not to lose it.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove any foam tape obscuring the screws near the camera cavity.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the power/sleep button bracket.

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Image 1/3: Use tweezers to grab and remove the button. Image 2/3: For reassembly, note the orientation—the metal bar should be flush with the bottom of the button. Image 3/3: If you can't get a hold on the power button from inside the case, use a spudger to slightly push it in from the outside.
  • Use the pointed end of a spudger to gently fold the power/sleep button bracket down from the top of the rear case.

  • Use tweezers to grab and remove the button.

    • For reassembly, note the orientation—the metal bar should be flush with the bottom of the button.

  • If you can't get a hold on the power button from inside the case, use a spudger to slightly push it in from the outside.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws from the hold switch bracket.

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Image 1/2: During reassembly, the bracket clip goes over the hold switch bracket.  Ensure the angled portion is to the right. Image 2/2: Use the tip of a spudger to flip the hold switch bracket down.
  • Remove this hold button bracket clip and set it aside.

    • During reassembly, the bracket clip goes over the hold switch bracket. Ensure the angled portion is to the right.

  • Use the tip of a spudger to flip the hold switch bracket down.

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Image 1/1: Note the orientation for reassembly: The red line should be at the top of the button. The notch in the back of the hold switch button should be in the same position as, and mate with, the mechanical switch on the cable.
  • Use tweezers to remove the hold switch.

  • Note the orientation for reassembly: The red line should be at the top of the button. The notch in the back of the hold switch button should be in the same position as, and mate with, the mechanical switch on the cable.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the volume rocker bracket to the side wall.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to fold the volume rocker bracket down from the side wall. Remove the volume rocker.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Use the tip of a spudger to peel the power/sleep button cable off of the rear case.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Run a spudger gently under the flash assembly cable to separate it from the phone.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Peel the upper assembly cable up from right to left to separate the adhesive holding it to the case.

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Image 1/1: Do not touch the contacts; finger oils can corrode the metal and prevent a solid connection.
  • Take extra care in peeling the vibrator contact end of the cable off of the phone.

  • Do not touch the contacts; finger oils can corrode the metal and prevent a solid connection.

  • You can now remove the assembly from the phone.

Don't forget to remove the WiFi antenna. In the photo you'll see a circular shape directly to the left of the antenna cable connector. Lift this piece of tape and remove the screw underneath. You can remove the antenna with your spudger.

edunbarr - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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3 Comments

crucial information is missing:

when removing the lightning connector module, not only the black "rubber gasket" attached to the microphone needs to be carefully transfered to the new rear case, but also

-the rectangular black plastic microphone filter with the small cylindrical extrusion, which is stuck to the case

-the grid/foam frame protecting the speaker, which is also glued to the case

-the 2 gold connector rings around the screw holes on the upper black plastic part at the bottom of the case.

-the metal piece remotely similar to a "bone" shape, two rings connected by a longer part, stuck to the lower black plastic part at the bottom of the case.

-in general the 4 metal parts screwed to the side of the case, functioning as snap-locks for the front display. (3x with 2 snap lock elements, 1x with only 1, next to the volume rocker

-the black ring round the hole where the wifi/bluetooth antenna goes, underneath the vibration motor.

depending on the case you're getting, all of these need to be transfered.

David - Reply

Also the transfer of the WiFi/Bluetooth antenna is completely missing. In my case the antenna to logic board connector cable broke, so i had to replace it

David -

where is this located Apple Part Number: 821-1769

I replaced old back body with the new one and when I finished this part was still on my desk and gps doesn't get signal anymore :)

Fiiu - Reply

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