Introduction

Use this guide to replace a faulty logic board in your iPhone 5c.

Video Overview

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

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Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Remove the two 3.8 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning connector.

to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

V. Jones - Reply

  • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.

  • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

  • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

    • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

  • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

V. Jones - Reply

Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!

Michael W Mason - Reply

@mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

  • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

  • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

  • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

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  • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

  • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

cool i diden't now

Ben Lewis Murray Dyne - Reply

very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

bromanmoon - Reply

  • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

  • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

  • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

  • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

  • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

Dan - Reply

Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

duston -

The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

V. Jones - Reply

  • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

  • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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  • Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.

  • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

  • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

Using a can works really well!

Amy Dachs - Reply

  • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

Joe Shirghio - Reply

I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

Michael Allen - Reply

Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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  • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

Why do we need to disconnect the battery?

Maria Raesch - Reply

Sorry, I missed the comments on step 9 that detail the procedure.

Maria Raesch - Reply

Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

Jona Wolff - Reply

Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

Peter Hill - Reply

  • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.7 mm screw

    • One 3.25 mm screw

  • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

  • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size—don't force them.

In step 9: I think you are talking about the 3,25 and 1,7mm one not the 1,3 and the 1,7mm?

Siegbert Waldner - Reply

DO NOT Remove the battery, there is no need to and can cause unnecessary damage! There's a tutorial on YouTube that does it without!

Alister Malcolm - Reply

I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

jacobstevens - Reply

I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

Fredrick Apel - Reply

I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

K Jansen - Reply

good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

travismlive -

When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

Chandler Perez - Reply

did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

matt - Reply

  • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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  • Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

  • Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

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  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

  • Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD cable connector.

    • The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.

  • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

Harold Wallner - Reply

This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

vince -

Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

terrymccallum -

There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

piet - Reply

Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

duston -

When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

jimbbo - Reply

If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

iBroke -

  • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

Very clear and percise.

Jessica Fader - Reply

  • Shut your phone down completely before removing the SIM card and tray.

  • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

  • Press the SIM card eject tool inwards to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

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  • Remove the SIM Card tray assembly from the iPhone.

  • During reassembly, ensure that the SIM card is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

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  • Disconnect the Lightning connector ribbon cable from its socket on the logic board.

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  • The Lightning connector cable is lightly adhered to a shield on the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently peel the cable up.

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  • Fold the cable up out of the way of the logic board.

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  • Disconnect the antenna connector from the base of the logic board.

There's often a blob of glue on the antenna connector as well, so it may take a little more effort than usual to disconnect it.

americanlawman - Reply

  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the audio control cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

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  • Disconnect the rear facing camera cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

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  • A small piece of tape may obscure the logic board grounding clip. If so, use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape.

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  • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Two 2.3 mm Phillips screws

    • Three 2.7 mm standoff screws

      • Standoff screws are best removed with a standoff screwdriver or standoff driver bit. A small flathead screwdriver can also do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    • One 2.5 mm Phillips #000 screw

didn't realize that the screw where the display plate was also another screw

Bob Mcroy - Reply

  • Remove the 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the grounding clip to the top side-wall.

  • Use tweezers to remove the logic board grounding clip.

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  • Use a plastic opening tool to gently lift the lower end of the logic board up from the rear case enough for you to grab it with your fingers.

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  • Pull the logic board away from the rear-facing camera just enough to expose the gold contact cap under the top end of the board.

  • Remove the gold-colored contact cap from the threaded post in the rear case, and set it aside.

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  • Flip the logic board up toward the volume control buttons to expose the antenna connector.

  • Do not try to remove the logic board from the rear case yet, as it is still connected by an antenna cable on the back.

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  • Disconnect the antenna connector from the back of the logic board.

Step 31. I encountered epoxy around the antenna connector. Had to remove it from around the connector before it would pop off.

Matt Twyman - Reply

I can't seem to reconnect the antenna (trouble lining up the hole). Is there a trick?

Drew - Reply

Mine had epoxy around the connection too. Broke the cable when trying to remove :((((((

smithica_jess - Reply

Please add alert, I broke connector because could not see epoxy.

Jonatan Nieto - Reply

  • Remove the logic board from the iPhone.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

111 other people completed this guide.

Andrew Optimus Goldberg

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12 Comments

Would a logic board swap be easier than a battery swap between 2 iPhone 5C's? ?

Dylan Tran - Reply

A battery swap would be significantly easier! Here's the battery replacement guide. =)

Sam Lionheart -

While I was repairing my phone, I guess the part where I didn't go around was taking out the battery because it felt like it was the more fragile part. This was because I did not have the proper equipment to take it away. This guide was pretty helpful for me in reconnecting cables.

Anyway, I am bothered that as I took out the logic board, there was this golden thing that just slid out of place. It slid from the top portion of the phone, but I do not know where it was originally and I do not know how it was supposed to be placed. It looked like an open box of sorts (but only had 3 sides bent up) and had a hole in the middle. It would be great if anyone would know where it could be placed so I could put back my phone.

Fimbo Gaming - Reply

Look at step 29 :)

Gigabit87898 -

Where i can buy this board for iphone5c

sami ullah - Reply

Why does the replacement logistic board not have the grove to snap the snaps into? Mine is just smooth on from and back? This board is useless for me

Mekie

Tamekia Lewis - Reply

how do you know when you need a new logic board?..my phone will not keep the date,or the proper time,Ihave to reset it every day manually...

christine harrison - Reply

Did everything as described and it all went good except for the antenna which I had a hard time connecting back and then it broken, I will have it welded back on.

However when I tried to turn on the phone, nothing happens! Stays black!! What can it be?... help !....

Patrick MOUNIER - Reply

i am also interested i swaped the battery and screen and nothing happened just a black screen i thought that the board needs to be replaced. please let me know if you solve as i can try before i purchase the board

James Turner -

excellent work..

sandeepkumar1986 - Reply

Does the piece of tape over the grounding clip needed? Because I cannot get it to stick back…

Aiden Baker - Reply

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