iPhone 4 Verizon Display Assembly Replacement

Featured Guide

Featured Guide

This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff.

Replace a cracked front panel or a broken display on your Verizon iPhone 4.

Use this guide to replace a cracked front panel or a broken LCD.

After successfully replacing the display assembly, protect your new display from scratches by installing a screen protector.

Relevant Parts

Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

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Edit Step 1 Rear Panel  ¶ 

  • Before disassembling your iPhone, be sure it is powered off.

  • Your phone's rear cover may have two #000 Phillips screws or Apple's 5-Point "Pentalobe" screws. Check which screws you have, and ensure you also have the correct screwdriver in order to remove them.

  • Remove the two 3.6 mm Pentalobe or Phillips #000 screws next to the dock connector.

  • During reassembly, we recommend you replace the 5-point screws with equivalent Phillips screws. Our Liberation Kit provides the tools and screws needed to replace the Pentalobe screws with Phillips screws.

  • The 5-Point Screwdriver should only be used once, as it has the potential to strip the screws.

Edit Step 2  ¶ 

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Edit Step 2  ¶ 

  • Push the rear panel toward the top edge of the iPhone.

  • The panel will move about 2 mm.

Edit Step 3  ¶ 

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Edit Step 3  ¶ 

  • Pinch the rear panel with your fingers, and lift it away from the iPhone. Alternatively, use a Small Suction Cup .

  • Be careful not to damage the plastic clips attached to the rear panel.

Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

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Edit Step 4 Battery  ¶ 

  • Remove the single 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board (if present).

Edit Step 5  ¶ 

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Edit Step 5  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break it entirely.

Edit Step 6  ¶ 

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Edit Step 6  ¶ 

  • Pull up on the exposed clear plastic tab to peel the battery off the adhesive securing it to the iPhone.

  • Depending on the strength of the adhesive holding the battery down, the adhesive's strength may exceed the strength of the plastic pull-tab. If so, you'll need to work the plastic spudger around the battery to release the adhesive. Too much pressure exerted at any one point could short the battery internally rendering it useless.

  • Remove the battery.

  • Do not remove the plastic tab from the iPhone.

Edit Step 7  ¶ 

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Edit Step 7  ¶ 

  • Use a 2" putty knife on tab side if you have to.

Edit Step 8 Dock Connector Cable  ¶ 

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Edit Step 8 Dock Connector Cable  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the dock connector cable to the logic board.

  • Remove the thin metal dock connector cable cover.

Edit Step 9  ¶ 

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Edit Step 9  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the dock cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Edit Step 10  ¶ 

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Edit Step 10  ¶ 

  • Peel the dock connector cable off the adhesive securing it to the logic board and the side of the speaker enclosure.

Edit Step 11  ¶ 

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Edit Step 11  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the pressure contact to the logic board near the vibrator.

  • Remove the pressure contact.

Edit Step 12  ¶ 

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Edit Step 12  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the cellular antenna cable up from its socket on the logic board.

  • De-route the cellular antenna cable out from under the metal fingers attached to the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the antenna wire be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the wire is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connector.

Edit Step 13 Rear Camera  ¶ 

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Edit Step 13 Rear Camera  ¶ 

  • Remove the following five screws:

    • Three 1.3 mm Phillips screws

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

Edit Step 14  ¶ 

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Edit Step 14  ¶ 

  • Lift the cable cover from its edge nearest the top of the iPhone.

  • Pull the cable cover tabs out of their slots cut into the EMI shield on the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

Edit Step 15  ¶ 

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Edit Step 15  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the rear camera connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any components off the surrounding area on the logic board as you pry upwards.

  • Remove the rear camera from the iPhone.

  • Be careful not to scratch the back of the display assembly after the removal of the rear facing camera.

Edit Step 16 Logic Board  ¶ 

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Edit Step 16 Logic Board  ¶ 

  • Disconnect the five cables near the top of the logic board in the following order:

    • Headphone jack/volume button cable

    • Power button cable

    • Front facing camera cable

    • Digitizer cable

    • Display data cable

  • To disconnect the cables, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently lift their connectors up and out of the sockets on the logic board.

  • Be careful not to break any of the small and delicate surface mount components as you disconnect the cables.

Edit Step 17  ¶ 

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Edit Step 17  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw near the headphone jack.

Edit Step 18  ¶ 

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Edit Step 18  ¶ 

  • Lift the small grounding clip up off the logic board and remove it from the iPhone.

Edit Step 19  ¶ 

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Edit Step 19  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to disconnect the Wi-Fi antenna cable connector from the logic board.

  • When reconnecting the wifi ribbon connector to the mother board be VERY certain that the round connector at the end of the ribbon cable is centered on its mating half on the motherboard before applying pressure. Failure to do so will likely destroy both halves of the connection.

Edit Step 20  ¶ 

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Edit Step 20  ¶ 

  • If present, remove the piece of tape covering a Phillips screw near the power button.

Edit Step 21  ¶ 

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Edit Step 21  ¶ 

  • Remove the 2.5 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the logic board near the power button.

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.

Edit Step 22  ¶ 

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Edit Step 22  ¶ 

  • Remove the 3.4 mm Phillips screw near the vibrator motor.

  • Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove the two 3.6 mm standoffs along the side of the logic board nearest the battery opening.

Edit Step 23  ¶ 

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Edit Step 23  ¶ 

  • Carefully lift the logic board from the end closest to the speaker enclosure and slide it away from the top edge of the iPhone.

  • Remove the logic board.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the logic board (not the mating halves of connectors) with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause grounding issues.

Edit Step 24  ¶ 

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Edit Step 24  ¶ 

  • Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button.

Edit Step 25 Vibrator  ¶ 

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Edit Step 25 Vibrator  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the vibrator off the adhesive securing it to the frame of the iPhone.

  • Remove the vibrator.

Edit Step 26 Display Assembly  ¶ 

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Edit Step 26 Display Assembly  ¶ 

  • Remove the two 2.4 mm Phillips screws from the sides of the speaker enclosure assembly.

Edit Step 27  ¶ 

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Edit Step 27  ¶ 

  • Remove the small plastic bracket that was installed under the screw closest to the dock connector cable.

Edit Step 28  ¶ 

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Edit Step 28  ¶ 

  • Remove the speaker enclosure assembly from the iPhone.

  • Before reinstalling the speaker enclosure assembly's screws, be sure the Wi-Fi grounding fingers are installed below the lip in the iPhone's metal case as seen in the second picture.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points between the grounding fingers of the Wi-Fi antenna and the case of the iPhone with a de-greaser such as windex or isopropyl alcohol. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.

Edit Step 29  ¶ 

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Edit Step 29  ¶ 

  • Remove the small pieces of black tape covering the display mounting tabs.

Edit Step 30  ¶ 

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Edit Step 30  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw securing the display assembly near the power button.

Edit Step 31  ¶ 

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Edit Step 31  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw near the headphone jack.

Edit Step 32  ¶ 

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Edit Step 32  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw near the lower microphone.

Edit Step 33  ¶ 

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Edit Step 33  ¶ 

  • Remove the 1.6 mm Phillips screw near the dock connector cable.

Edit Step 34  ¶ 

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Edit Step 34  ¶ 

  • Loosen the three large-headed Phillips screws along the volume button side of the iPhone about one half turn.

  • It is not necessary to completely remove these screws. When reinstalling the display assembly, be sure the washers are closest to the screw head (as seen in the second picture).

Edit Step 35  ¶ 

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Edit Step 35  ¶ 

  • Loosen the three large-headed Phillips screws along the other side of the iPhone about one half turn.

Edit Step 36  ¶ 

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Edit Step 36  ¶ 

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry up the display assembly around its perimeter.

  • De-route the digitizer and LCD cables through the steel inner frame.

  • When reinstalling the display, carefully straighten the digitizer and LCD data cables, and feed them through the slot cut in the steel frame. This photo shows the display assembly being installed incorrectly, with a fold in the digitizer cable.

    • When the front panel has been correctly installed, both the LCD and digitizer cables should be immediately next to one another and should be the same length, as shown in the second photo.

    • If the digitizer cable has been installed incorrectly, it will not reach its socket on the logic board. Do not attempt to pull it through by force, or it will tear. Remove the display assembly, straighten the cable, and feed it through to its full length, as shown.

  • During reassembly, do not touch the metallic area at the base of the LCD data cable, as this can cause problems with the LCD. If you do touch it accidentally, clean it gently with an alcohol wipe before continuing.

Edit Step 37  ¶ 

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Edit Step 37  ¶ 

  • Remove the display assembly from the iPhone.

    • Be sure to separate the home button from the front panel. If the home button sticks to the front panel you may tear the home button cable.

  • When replacing the display assembly, note the following:

    • You may have to reuse the earpiece grille and the clear plastic ring around the front facing camera from the old/damaged assembly. This will depend on where you buy the replacement part.

    • Your replacement display may come with colored plastic film on the back of the LCD. If so, use the pull tab near the home button to peel the plastic film from the LCD before installing the new display in your iPhone.

  • After reassembly, note the following:

    • Clean the touchscreen surface with an alcohol wipe prior to turning the iPhone back on. The alcohol helps dissipate any lingering static electricity, which can cause problems with the display.

    • After reassembly, connect the iPhone to an AC power source before turning it on for the first time. Once the iPhone has booted up successfully, you can disconnect the AC power.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

For more information, check out the iPhone 4 CDMA device page.

Required Tools

Phillips #000 Screwdriver

$5.95 · 50+ In stock

Plastic Opening Tools

$2.95 · 50+ In stock

P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver iPhone

$7.95 · 50+ In stock

Related Products

Recommended Tools

54 Bit Driver Kit

$24.95 · 50+ In stock

Magnetic Project Mat

$19.95 · 50+ In stock

Pro Tech Screwdriver Set

$59.95 · 50+ In stock

Anti-Static Project Tray

$4.95 · 50+ In stock

Comments Comments are onturn off

Thanks guys' u are always awesome!!!

Cheik sana, · Reply

I could not remove the logic board because it will not release at the top left. Have I missed something.

elaineleiker, · Reply

Their are only 3 things that are holding down anything in the cell phone world screws adhesive or clips their are 5 screws connecting the board make sure all 5 are removed theirs also kinda a clip it fits under be careful not to brake that when taking it out

brandon hobbs,

Had it done in1.5hrs exact. Very helpful as always, thanks IFIX IT.

Its a good note to posted's and label where the screw is from, since they are so small and a pain to remember where its going.

mirandaroque, · Reply

The Digitizer Cable seems to be too short. Trying to make it reach. It doesn't reach its place on the logic board. Going to disassemble and start over. (Step 15)

Any pointers?

chris, · Reply

I know it's late, hopefully someone else reading this finds this helpful - the digitizer cable on my screen was slightly tucked under the display, on the inside-facing side of the replacement front screen. When I put everything together, it didn't reach, so I gently tugged on it. Welp, it tore. Took it apart to find out what I did wrong, and I was able to carefully unfold the digitizer cable from the LCD. Had I been patient and disassembled the phone and worked the digitizer cable until it came out, I would have had it fixed. Go slow, be careful, don't shy away from backing up a few steps if you need to make sure it's right!

Jonathan Samonas,

The screw that holds the wifi connector on is wrong in half these pics. There are two screws. The base screw which goes on before putting the grounding clip in and then another top screw. Step six has it wrong and a few steps on the next page do to.

anthonyg, · Reply

When we removed the face plate on the final step, one of the corner brackets broke & remained in the corner. What do we do now? I have tried to gently force the broken piece out but it will not budge. I am afraid I will mess something up when I reassemble the new face plate. The one side with the broken corner will not align to reattach. Help please????

Leslie, · Reply

Try the best you can to get that bracket out. Just don't break anything else in the process.

Worst case scenario, if there's just no way at all to get that bracket out (say the screw head is stripped and you're not comfortable or don't have the tools to safely drill it out), you can CAREFULLY break the tab off the new plate.

It's a... "not quite completely professional" solution, but if it's your phone, and you're not regularly prying at that corner for some reason, the other brackets should hold the face plate on more than sufficiently.

Kyle Sankowicz,

Exciting and challenging repair. Successful repair. Happy camper here. Thanks!!

Michael, · Reply

We lost the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button. (Step 22) the one is says be careful not to lose...

What happens now? is it the reason the phone wont turn back on?

Someone else dis-assembled it before me and lost it... not sure if its the reason why it wont turn back on, also the last screw in the top right corner (near headphone jack was stripped in first attempt... what do I do?

James, · Reply

I just did this today, turned my iPhone on and to my relief everything is working great... except one problem. The backlight is flashing, very subtly... anyone know why this might be and what I could do to fix it?

Katie, · Reply

Super great guide! Was able to to replace front and back with just the complications of itty bitty screws being an issue haha but had shattered both sides! It's also blue now:-) thank you so very much for sharing this! Only advice I could offer is it's very teetious so try to avoid doing it with your young kids around haha.

Keisha Nukaya, · Reply

So I have a question before I put in the logic board. What do I do with the digitizer if it does not reach its socket? I don't want to pull it and damage it.

Jose Estrada, · Reply

The cable is folded up under the new display, take it off and look carefully as you put the cables through the hole. Guide them through. You may have to push digitizer cable to the right a little and watch it from the side until the new display is completely touching the front of the phone. If you pull the cable it will rip it in half then you have to buy another display! There are other posts about this issue. This happened to me with my first phone repair, an iPhone 4s. Also posts in guide for the ATT 4s display guide!

Amanda,

Thanks for the great guide! One issue I had, the #00 Philips screw driver was too big for most of the screws on the phone. I ordered the #000 from ifixit, and had no real issues after that. Thanks for the support!

Chenoa14, · Reply

My Verizon phone is an A1349, but they say it is 8GB. Is this compatible with the 16 and 32GB instructions here, or is it an unrepairable knock off ? Thanks.

Rick, · Reply

Be careful some screws are hidden with black tape

Mtech, · Reply

I just repaired a fellow coworker's phone. I have repaired several iPhone 4s models. So this phone had a colored piece on top of the home button that my coworker attached to match her phone cover. When I was replacing the display I could not get this colored piece off. I have put the phone back together and everything works correctly except for the home button! Any suggestions? I did not rip the cable that is attached to the home button! I need help! lol.

Amanda, · Reply

Thanks so much- fun to do and saved the $

rafesmom, · Reply

I put everything back together. It powers up and I can use functions and apps. However, I tried to sync or charge it and it doesn't recognize the cable being plugged into the port. Any suggestions?

Timothy, · Reply

To stay organized I wrote the step numbers on white paper and stuck loops of Scotch tape beside the numbers to hold the tiny screws and parts. This kept everything in order and kept screws still.

You can magnetize any tool easily by taking a magnet and swiping it down the shaft of the screwdriver. Put magnet at the midpoint of the shaft and swipe it downward. One direction only.

rafesmom, · Reply

Followed all directions, screen lights up. But will not respond to my touch. What did I do wrong?

Connie Kromarek, · Reply

I am having the same problem. Followed all steps and it lights up but will not respond to touch. Please help!

grifbeck72,

My daughter Samantha Lionheart is the living prof that a woman can repair a screen on an i-phone.

It was pretty amazing to watch her do it.

She was very patient, well organized(paper on hand to write her own reminder of which or where those tiny screws go back after 36 steps of instructions (tuff one).

You have to be a smart cookie !

Congratulation !! my phone looks brand new now.

I am very proud of you.

Much love.

Maman

annick lionheart, · Reply

Completed all the steps, but when I attempted to turn phone on after, it didn't work. Any suggestions for trouble shooting the issue? I think it might be the screen connector, but not sure.

Brian, · Reply

you do not need to take the battery out as chuck said so you dont run the risk of braking the battery connector socket from the logic board

22therealala, · Reply

In my situation, the #00 screwdriver had a hard time trying to get the screws off. Using a glasses screwdriver kit may be a better alternative if the screws are resistant to the #00 screwdriver.

tjaeger, · Reply

Note that the pull tab is not actually attached to the battery. It is attached to the iPhone chassis, and is only used to separate the battery from the adhesive. (Don't expect it to come out with the battery!)

Also, the adhesive is VERY strong. I had to use my plastic opening tool to assist in prying the battery loose. This is probably the most nerve-wracking part of the job.

Matt Strange, · Reply

It is much easier to slightly WARM the battery with a HAIRDRYER not a HEAT GUN to soften the adhesive. DO NOT GET BATTERY HOT AND DO NOT USE HEAT GUN

Joe,

I just did this today. Everything was as scripted. Mine had lots of adhesive and had to use plastic spudger to go around battery to loosen up. Do not use plastic tab until you can see under battery a little bit. Great instructions. Took less than 10 minutes.

kamullins4135,

The adhesive is very strong and I was initially worried about damaging the phone by prying so much. There are a couple of places below the volume switch where you can pry between the metal of the case and the battery. If you lift the battery just a little, wiggle the pry bar further in and then start moving down the case. Don't worry about bending the battery, its dead anyway.

Do not pry on the left side (circuit board side) and do not use the pull tab until the adhesive is broken loose.

martin474, · Reply

I tried this at first with a plastic pry tool, and the adhesive was so strong that I broke the tool. I then used a large screwdriver and applied pressure very slowly along various places on the outer side of the battery. That eventually did the trick.

alsmith1928, · Reply

Careful here...On my phone, the little mounting screw boss (the part the screw threads into) of the top red-circled screw came unglued/welded from the underlying board, meaning the screw will no longer be able to be screwed back in.

usnmustanger, · Reply

The three 1.3 mm screws are very difficult to distinguish from the 1.5 mm screw. I spent a long time with a magnifying glass trying to tell them apart. For the other steps of the repair, I kept the screws in a tray compartment along with the piece that they connected, but for this step I recommend keeping each of the different types of screws separate.

alsmith1928, · Reply

One of the 1.3 screws stripped on the head. Any idea how to remove it? I got the other screws out.

kayers, · Reply

Better to delay removing the camera and its cable until the Display and Digitizer cables are removed as there is an arm on the right side of the camera that slips under the other cables.

ed50buffalo, · Reply

I agree with ed -- move the camera removal step until after Step 16, after the digitizer and display cables have been removed, as there is a tab/arm on the camera's cable that should go under these two cables during reassembly.

Chris Kovach,

I found it quite easy to remove the camera at this step. Just simply move the camera up and slip it to the left in order for the arm/tab to come out.

Kent, · Reply

When putting the camera back in, make sure the tab on the right goes under the display and digitizer cables.

Calion, · Reply

The Digitizer Cable on the new display seems to be too short. Trying to make it reach. It doesn't reach its place on the logic board. Going to disassemble and start over. (Step 15)

Any pointers?

chris, · Reply

What happened was there is a tab on the cable, and that didn't go all the way through the casing. I made this mistake about 3 times. It's not too short, just move the screen a little away from the casing, and pull the cable all the way through without ripping it.

savage24x,

The two verizon phones I've repaired so far both have a phillips screw that screws into the flathead screw that is shown here. The grounding clip is between the phillips and the flathead. So remove the phillips, and then the grounding clip, that will reveal the flathead screw.

boo, · Reply

take out screw on top of stand of first, then take of grounding plat, and then stand off.

Corey Berghorst, · Reply

This is correct.

savage24x,

Echoing the notes from 'boo' and Corey -- that's exactly what I saw too. Perhaps the guide should be updated?

Matt Strange, · Reply

This has been changed several times on the iphone 4 logic board manual, and the changes are always being reverted. There _IS_ a screw in step 16, but someone seems intent on not having it mentioned in the manual. Dunno why...

Mobile Rapid Response Unit, · Reply

Because it's mentioned in Step 20.

usnmustanger,

It may have been mentioned in step 20 at some point, but it isn't anymore. The phillips head screw that's mentioned in step 20 is the one holding the grounding finger to the rear-facing camera corner of the motherboard.

That said, my concerns about step 16 have since been rectified, so I suppose step 20 could've been fixed at the same time.

Mobile Rapid Response Unit,

The manual does need to be updated for the screw being inside the standoff screw.

Billy, · Reply

Some Phones such as mine (march2012) had a philips head screw here..

Anson, · Reply

one of the small prongs on the standoff near the headphone jack broke off, is this a big deal or should i not worry about it

Sam, · Reply

Don't worry about it, the stand-off just holds the wifi antenna in place

Jake,

Can you show how this piece attaches?

Mitch Frederick, · Reply

This piece broke when i had to drill out stripped screw. Is it important enough to replace it?

Buhz, · Reply

For me, aligning the connector when putting things back together was the most difficult part of this repair. Unlike reattachment of the radio antenna in step 11, it is very difficult to see whether the male/female are aligned properly before applying pressure. Unfortunately, I have no secret as to how to accomplish this, other than to say that my WiFi is working after the repair.

alsmith1928, · Reply

can someone tell me what that flap thing is thats right behind the other? also whats its use & how important it is. ( the one thats hidden behind the other)

Camarri, · Reply

Now is a good time to remove the gold grounding finger. I used the condiments cups from Wendy's (fast food restaurant) to hold my screws for each step. Hope this helps.

Kent, · Reply

When replacing the standoff screw closest to the dock connector, make sure it is tightened all the way down. The battery terminal screw fits in the standoff later, and if the standoff isn't tight (NOT TOO TIGHT!) then the battery will not be completely connected and your phone will power off unless tethered. This mimics a bad logic board symptom! Inspect this before replacing your logic board!

goodski, · Reply

The standoff screws are very difficult to get out unless you have a very tiny (jeweler's) flathead screwdriver, which I lacked. A pocketknife did work, however.

Calion, · Reply

When I was attempting to reinstall the logic board (step 21 in reverse), a small rubber bumper came loose from 'somewhere' on the board (I think). It isn't visible in any of the photos, so I really have no idea where it came from!

Matt Strange, · Reply

I don't see it in the pictures either, but I'm pretty sure there is a black bumper that rides on the 'top' of the logic board. I believe it reduces friction between the display/digitizer cables and the top of the logic board.

Ken McCann,

You can see this "bumper" in steps 16 and 20 (right above the yellow sticker in the pics), and it provides relief for the digitizer and display cables as they both come up and around the edge of the logic board. I put my bumper with its thicker side down towards the inside of the phone and it worked fine.

Chris Kovach,

This is correct, and if you look closely the rubber piece has a "thick" and "thin" side. The "thin" side should be facing "up" on logic board (towards back cover) while the "thick" is pointed "down" (towards screen)

Joe, · Reply

The rubber bumper has a groove in it, which rides a notch along the top edge of the logic board. Its purpose is to ease pressure between the top of the phone and the board. If you look at the top of the frame, there is a little horizontal ridge about 0.8cm (3/8") long which is just the right width of the rubber bumper.

For reference:

http://i.imgur.com/GITTv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/IoeZV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Po9h8.jpg

Bradley, · Reply

Your images show incorrect placement of the rubber spacer. Step 20 shows correct placement. It is just above the scan code sticker on the motherboard. That is where the ribbon cables roll over, so it makes sense.

I assume the thick side would be facing the rear of the phone, but can not be sure.?

http://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi...

Keil Miller,

I wouldn't use Windex. It's mostly water. Why would anyone put water on a connection? Use isopropyl alcohol and be certain that it's at least 95% alcohol.

Better yet use contact cleaner or the original Brakleen (in the RED can). You can find the Brakleen at any automotive store.

Tom Brandolini, · Reply

Hope someone can ease my uncertainty: does the grounding finger for the

rear-facing camera go on TOP of the motherboard OR between the motherboard and

the standoff???

Tom Brandolini, · Reply

Under. There is nothing to ground if it went over the pcb. Look on the backside.

Keil Miller,

It shouldn't matter. If on top, it will still be grounded through the screw. I've done both without any problems.

Anthony, · Reply

For the record.... This thing was really REALLY stuck with adhesive when I removed it. Surprised I am the first to comment on this.

kevindelong, · Reply

My plastic corner bracket actually came out with the screw, so be aware this can happen

kevindelong, · Reply

Be careful not to lose the black plastic triangle spacer (roughly the same shape as the one you removed in step 25, just thicker). This spacer can be seen in the first picture (step 26) in the lower left hand corner near the palm. It goes under the metal.

Steven K, · Reply

This isn't particularly easy. Maybe it's the screwdriver I have, but I can't seem to reach these corner screws.

Andrew Ruiz, · Reply

Nearly impossible to reinstall this screw when reassembling.

joeboo7902896, · Reply

I was able to perform this step on my first repair attempt. Here's a tip: the rounded part of the headphone cable is very stiff and "spring" like. Just take a very thin Philips (#000) screwdriver and lay it down on the cable diagonally, pointing almost directly towards the screw. Push gently down on the cable and it will cave in somewhat. This is fine. Then you can go straight in at the screw and turn it out.

Photograph: http://i.imgur.com/wKigI.jpg

Bradley, · Reply

Thank you Bradley. I've had tons of grief with this screw in the past. I've just had to turn the driver at an angle and curse and yell and retry it 5 times before it worked. This is a MUCH better approach! I had no idea that cable safely had that much give. You have my gratitude.

Kyle Sankowicz, · Reply

Took me an hour to get this screw back in. Tried different tools. I didn't have a long shank thin phillips head magnetic screwdriver. That would have helped out tremendously.

GSchlag77, · Reply

AH, perhaps I jinxed myself, but I could not get this screw out. I think I stripped the phillips head too. Is there anything left to do to salvage it?

Linda Vanasupa, · Reply

This screw was very hard to replace - lost the part after many minutes of trying.

tponeill3, · Reply

I was just able to replace this screw by first placing it in the hole with tweezers, then using the Phillips head screwdriver at an angle. The screw itself is slightly magnetized, and held onto the edge of my tweezer point, and then held itself inside the hole.

jzeth, · Reply

I stripped this screw. Any suggestions on how to get it out?

Aaron Shapiro, · Reply

These screws are impossible to remove. Please help, what's the trick. I only could get one of them to loosen

Dana Palermo, · Reply

Someone please help, I'm going to throw this thing across the room. cannot get these screws to loosen

Dana Palermo,

Remember to take the earpiece screen off the old lcd and put it on the new screen. Most replacements do not include this mesh screen.

boo, · Reply

DEFINITELY REMEMBER THE ABOVE ADVICE TO TRANSFER THE METAL MESH SCREEN FROM THE OLD SCREEN TO THE NEW ONE.

I've done this twice now, and it really, really stinks because you don't usually see it until the phone is all back together. That would mean doing the whole process again. Slapped myself in the forehead the second time.

Thank you so much for this easy to follow guide, but it's so good I don't usually look at the comments. Maybe this last little thing could be added.

Either way, Thanks Again.

isaacstuff, · Reply

took me about 2 hours to succesfully complete the entirety of this replacement. Although the hardest part is putting the screws back into their respective holes. And it does help to read the comments after reviewing the guide as well. It wasn't until I had the customer's phone completely back together that I realized that earpiece grill wasn't there on the new screen.. nevertheless.. Thank You to my favorite repair website for the easy to follow guides.

Chris, · Reply

There is also a small plastic ring around the front-facing camera that may come away with the broken screen. Make sure to recover it and re-attached to the camera before reassembly.

Mark, · Reply

Well I got about 1/2 way back through the re-assembly and found that the digitizer cable was too short. I disassembled back to here and this time started snapping the new display surface back into place beginning at the end where the digitizer cable feeds through. Then I did a "dry-run" with the logic board to ensure the cable reaches and it looks good.

tponeill3, · Reply

Instruction here refers to routing the digitizer/LCD cables through the

"outer case". Just for the sake of clarity,

isn't the part through which the ribbons are

being routed the FRAME? If it really IS the outer case, where is the "inner case"?

Tom Brandolini, · Reply

To Mark and the small plastic ring, I remembered to salvage it an save it, but then forgot to reinstall it... Oops... Humm.. Wonder if the phone really needs it? .......

Chenoa14, · Reply

ive gotten everything apart and all of the screws out.. but cannot seem to pry the screen off. suggestions?

Rachael, · Reply

The digitizer/LCD cable warning is VERY important! I thought I had it right, but had to go back and disassemble again when I realized the digitizer connection wouldn't meet - it had folded under the frame (which I might have noticed if I'd compared it to the photo in Step 23 - that clearly shows that the 2 cables should be about the same length).

It's a great manual, and a satisfying repair - this iPhone had been run over, the front glass totally shattered, and now it's operational!

Jen Morris, · Reply

Got my phone back together and cut it on and the screen is white with a couple pixels in upper left hand corner that are black. I could very faintly make out the screen after it booted up and was able to power it down. Any recommendations on how to proceed. I plan to disassemble and check all the connections.

Doug, · Reply

Same problem as Rachael. I've removed all the screws but the front glass isn't budging despite my spudging. Any tricks for resolving this? I don't want to break it at this point.

Dave, · Reply

Use the guitar pick or a fingernail file to pry up one of the corners (the plastic goes with the glass away from the metal frame). Then carefully pull up the whole screen. There are plastic "feet" that are holding the screen on, you'll have to pry up an edge to get them to let go.

rafesmom,

I had a lot of broken glass stuck to the adhesive after removing the screen. Be sure you use tweezers and a scraper (be careful) to remove all the old debris prior to installing the new part. I got my part from ifixit so it had the mesh and the ring for the camera on the new part.

kevindelong, · Reply

Nope. Broke the Home button cable at this point, because the button stuck to the display during separation.

Chris, · Reply

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