Follow the steps in this guide to replace your iPad mini 4 display assembly, including the fused LCD and digitizer glass.

This procedure involves removing the screen then transferring the home button to your new assembly. In order to maintain Touch ID functionality you must transfer your original home button to the new screen.

Depending on your replacement part, you may also need to transfer the sleep/wake sensor for Smart Cover use, this portion of the procedure requires desoldering a cable.

    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. For particularly bad breaks, you may need to lay down two layers.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Protect your eyes! This procedure will cause small pieces of glass to fly directly toward your face. Do not attempt without safety glasses.

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  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

      • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Reply

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Reply

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Reply

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

    I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

    putinaspiliponis - Reply

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Reply

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

    Sherry Carew - Reply

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Reply

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?



    Cedric VINCENT - Reply

    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Reply

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Reply

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Reply

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Reply

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Reply

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Reply

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Reply

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Reply

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Reply

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Reply

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Reply

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Reply

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Reply

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.


    Karl Marble - Reply

    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Reply

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Reply

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Reply

    • Handling it by the tabs on either side, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

    • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

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    • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

      • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from from the rear case.

    • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

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    • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

      • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.

    “Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”

    Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.

    The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.

    Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.

    lucanos - Reply

    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

      • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

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    • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

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    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

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    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

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    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

      • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

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    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

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    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge.

      • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

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    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

    • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

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    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

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    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

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    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

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    • Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary.

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    • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

      • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

    • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

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    • Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge.

    • Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.

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    • Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.

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    • Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.

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    • Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.

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    • Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.

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    • Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place.

    • Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.

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    • To avoid stressing any cables, hold the display assembly perpendicular to the body of the iPad until it is disconnected.

    • Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws over the battery/display connector bracket.

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    • Remove the battery/display cable bracket.

    Your bracket may look different to this. Mine had a black covering on the long edge being held between the fingers in this illustration. Same screws, same position, just a different color.

    lucanos - Reply

    • When disconnecting any press connectors from the logic board, be sure to lift the connector straight up to avoid ripping the socket off the board.

    • Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.

      • Bend the battery connector ribbon cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact and powering on the iPad.

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    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • When reconnecting these, press down from one end of the connector to the other. If you press in the middle of the connector, you may bend it, causing damage or a poor connection.

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    • Remove the display assembly.

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    • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ZIF socket.

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    • Use tweezers to unplug the home button ribbon cable from the ZIF socket.

    • Continue peeling the ribbon cable up to the EMI shield.

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    • Use tweezers to lift the home button control hardware module off the display assembly.

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    • Use an opening pick to continue separating the home button ribbon cable from the display assembly.

      • If you use metal tools to separate this cable, you may scratch the iPad glass, removing some paint.

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    • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the display assembly.

      • When replacing this bracket, it's recommended to use some high-bond tape to secure it.

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    • Heat an iOpener and lay it over the lower edge of the front panel to soften the adhesive holding the home button in place.

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    • The home button is held in place by a thin, delicate, rubber gasket that is mildly adhered to the front panel.

    • Slowly push the home button up and out of the display assembly to separate the gasket from the front panel.

      • Be careful to not push the gasket past its tearing point. If the adhesive is adequately heated, it will separate from the front panel with some gentle pressure.

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    • Remove the home button assembly.

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    • Examine your replacement part, and your original display carefully to be sure they match.

    • Your replacement screen may be missing the sleep/wake sensor that is necessary for Smart Cover use. If you want to maintain functionality you will need to transfer the component.

    • Desolder the six solder pads from the lower left of the display to remove the sensor assembly cable.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Evan Noronha

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Please post a caution about the home button ribbon cable. I was removing it from an extremely damaged screen and I accidentally slightly ripped it. Now I’m not sure what to do :( If I had known about the problems associated with changing a touch ID home button I would have been 100x more cautious but I’ve only ever had to fix my Mini 2 before so this wasn’t an issue.

Patrick Giordano - Reply

I have an iFixit replacement screen (C-stock) that has some existing adhesive already on it, but there are a few parts of the adhesive that are folded over on itself. I also have replacement adhesive. Two questions:

Should I replace the existing, possibly-worn adhesive with new adhesive, or is it better to stay with the already-applied adhesive?

Should I warm up the adhesive when I’m applying the screen back onto the body? Or should I keep it room-temperature?

Michael Innes - Reply

Just want to say Thank you for for the guide and what i can only describe as the perfect pctures to go along! Nice1

phill baker - Reply

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