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Introduction

Follow the steps in this guide to replace the home button assembly on your iPad mini 4 LTE.

Note that the iPad Mini 4 home button is paired to its original logic board, so replacing the original home button with a new one will disable the Touch ID function on your iPad. However, a replacement home button will still work as a button for click input.

Parts of this guide were shot with a Wi-Fi model and as such the internals may look slightly different from the LTE model. The procedure is the same for both models except where noted.

    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. For particularly bad breaks, you may need to lay down two layers.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Protect your eyes! This procedure will cause small pieces of glass to fly directly toward your face. Do not attempt without safety glasses.

  1. We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener. Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Reply

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Reply

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Reply

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Reply

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Reply

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Reply

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Reply

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Reply

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Reply

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Reply

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Reply

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Reply

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Reply

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Reply

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Reply

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Reply

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Reply

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Reply

  2. Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Reply

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Reply

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Reply

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Reply

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Reply

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Reply

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Reply

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Reply

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Reply

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Reply

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Reply

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Reply

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Reply

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Reply

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Reply

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Reply

  3. Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Reply

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Reply

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Reply

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Reply

  4. Handling it by the tabs on either side, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
    • Handling it by the tabs on either side, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.

    • Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

  5. Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side. Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal. While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from from the rear case.
    • Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.

    • Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.

    • While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from from the rear case.

    • Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you risk cracking the glass.

  6. While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad. Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than 2 mm into the side of the display. Inserting the pick deeper than 2 mm could damage the backlight assembly, LCD display, or touchscreen.
    • While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.

    • Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than 2 mm into the side of the display. Inserting the pick deeper than 2 mm could damage the backlight assembly, LCD display, or touchscreen.

    “Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”

    Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.

    The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.

    Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.

    lucanos - Reply

    Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.

    ian cheong - Reply

    This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...

    Alec - Reply

    can you open the right side if the left is too cracked to use a suction cup on?

    clark overhiser - Reply

    This guide needs amending urgently.

    You MUST NOT put the pick or whatever you are using more than 2mm under the sides of the screen, or you will cut through the adhesive tape securing the backlight assembly to the LCD glass.

    This will push adhesive into the viewable area of the LCD and cause the backlight assembly to no longer be secured against the LCD fully.

    I now need a new screen.

    This line below from the guide is absolutely INCORRECT and will ruin your expensive display:

    ”Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.”

    The black bezel is 5mm to 6mm wide; you MUST NOT insert anything to that depth or you will destroy your display. 2mm maximum!

    jamesqb2001 - Reply

    A few thoughts after opening a number of Mini 4’s.

    1) if the display is warm enough you can squeeze the digitizer and LCD back together after a minor incursion with the opening pick and it will reseal.

    2) I’ve started going in at the top just to the right of the camera (I use an iFlex to get in then switch to a pick). Then I run down either side with my fingers choked up on the pick so there only a mm or 2 sticking out. Usually after running down one side, I can get the display open enough to get the pick in behind the LCD when I do the other side

    Stow - Reply

  7. Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
    • Reheat and reapply the iOpener.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

    If your iPad is cold, consider leaving the iOpener on for longer than 5 minutes. The aluminum housing is a very large thermally dissipating mass and will quickly cool off the glass and make you have to start over and wait the 10 minutes to reheat. There’s a very slim window in which you’re able to insert the pick into the glass adhesive before it solidifies once again. I’ve been fighting with it for like 20 minutes following these instructions and it’s not working. You really need to leave it for longer than just 5 minutes to get the back housing hot too.

    Chris Storer - Reply

  8. Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass. Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.
    • Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

    • Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Applying too much pressure with the pick can crack the glass.

    I have found that wedging a blue pry tool in between the frame and the glass can give you a better edge enough to slide the pick in.

    Chris Storer - Reply

  9. Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
    • Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.

    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

  10. Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad. Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
    • Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.

  11. Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.

    • If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

  12. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive. Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
    • Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  13. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera. As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge. Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.

    • As you reach the front-facing camera, pull the pick out slightly and continue sliding it across the top edge.

    • Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

  14. Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera. Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive. Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.
    • Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.

    • Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.

    • Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

  15. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner. Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
    • Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

  16. Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
    • Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.

    • Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

  17. Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  18. Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary. Be careful not to slice too deep near the bottom right corner, or you risk damaging the display cable. Be careful not to slice too deep near the bottom right corner, or you risk damaging the display cable.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick down the right edge of the iPad, reheating the edge using an iOpener if necessary.

    • Be careful not to slice too deep near the bottom right corner, or you risk damaging the display cable.

  19. Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
    • Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.

    • Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.

    • Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

  20. Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge. Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device. Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.
    • Insert a new opening pick at the bottom right corner of the display, below the last opening pick you used to slice down the right edge.

    • Rotate the new pick around the lower right corner of the device.

  21. Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button. Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.
    • Slide the pick from the bottom right corner along the lower edge of the device. Stop about half an inch shy of the home button.

  22. Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one. Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.
    • Insert a final opening pick at the lower left corner of the iPad, directly below the existing one.

  23. Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad. Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.
    • Slide the pick around the lower left edge of the iPad.

  24. Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button. Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button. Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.
    • Continue sliding the pick at the lower left edge of the display toward the center of the iPad, until it is roughly half an inch from the home button.

  25. Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place. Lift the display from the top edge to open the device. Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.
    • Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad to break up the last of the adhesive holding the display assembly in place.

    • Lift the display from the top edge to open the device.

  26. To avoid stressing any cables, hold the display assembly perpendicular to the body of the iPad until it is disconnected.
    • To avoid stressing any cables, hold the display assembly perpendicular to the body of the iPad until it is disconnected.

    • Remove the four 1.2 mm Phillips screws over the battery/display connector bracket.

    What you need to do is move the display inboard up to the edge area of battery! That will relieve all the stress on the cables. Simply holding it straight up is not enough, especially later when you go back to reconnect the cables and the bracket over the connectors.

    Fixrights - Reply

  27. Remove the battery/display cable bracket.
    • Remove the battery/display cable bracket.

    Your bracket may look different to this. Mine had a black covering on the long edge being held between the fingers in this illustration. Same screws, same position, just a different color.

    lucanos - Reply

    Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?

    Thomas Langford - Reply

  28. When disconnecting any press connectors from the logic board, be sure to lift the connector straight up to avoid ripping the socket off the board. Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • When disconnecting any press connectors from the logic board, be sure to lift the connector straight up to avoid ripping the socket off the board.

    • Use the flat tip of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the battery connector ribbon cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact and powering on the iPad.

    When i was starting to disconnect the lcd to the board i hit the black film and it lit and now even the new display wont display anything how to fix it? The black film near the lcd connector.

    tyroon_jul27 - Reply

  29. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board. When reconnecting these, press down from one end of the connector to the other. If you press in the middle of the connector, you may bend it, causing damage or a poor connection.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the display data connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the digitizer cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • When reconnecting these, press down from one end of the connector to the other. If you press in the middle of the connector, you may bend it, causing damage or a poor connection.

  30. Remove the display assembly.
    • Remove the display assembly.

    • To reinstall your display assembly, you will need to replace the display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

    Ich habe eine Bücherstütze benutzt um das Display in senkrechter Position zu halten, während ich die vier Schräubchen gelöst habe.. So zieht man nicht so an den Flexkabeln….!

    Fridtjof Schüssler - Reply

  31. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ZIF socket. Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ZIF socket.
    • Use the pointed tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the home button ZIF socket.

  32. Use tweezers to unplug the home button ribbon cable from the ZIF socket. Continue peeling the ribbon cable up to the EMI shield. Continue peeling the ribbon cable up to the EMI shield.
    • Use tweezers to unplug the home button ribbon cable from the ZIF socket.

    • Continue peeling the ribbon cable up to the EMI shield.

  33. Use tweezers to lift the home button control hardware module off the display assembly. Use tweezers to lift the home button control hardware module off the display assembly.
    • Use tweezers to lift the home button control hardware module off the display assembly.

  34. Use an opening pick to continue separating the home button ribbon cable from the display assembly. If you use metal tools to separate this cable, you may scratch the iPad glass, removing some paint.
    • Use an opening pick to continue separating the home button ribbon cable from the display assembly.

    • If you use metal tools to separate this cable, you may scratch the iPad glass, removing some paint.

  35. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the display assembly. When replacing this bracket, it's recommended to use some high-bond tape to secure it. When replacing this bracket, it's recommended to use some high-bond tape to secure it.
    • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the home button bracket off the display assembly.

    • When replacing this bracket, it's recommended to use some high-bond tape to secure it.

  36. Heat an iOpener and lay it over the lower edge of the front panel to soften the adhesive holding the home button in place.
    • Heat an iOpener and lay it over the lower edge of the front panel to soften the adhesive holding the home button in place.

    what is another option if you dont have heat iopener

    premal06 - Reply

    A hairdryer and much patience

    BeLeFu -

  37. The home button is held in place by a thin, delicate, rubber gasket that is mildly adhered to the front panel. Slowly push the home button up and out of the display assembly to separate the gasket from the front panel.
    • The home button is held in place by a thin, delicate, rubber gasket that is mildly adhered to the front panel.

    • Slowly push the home button up and out of the display assembly to separate the gasket from the front panel.

    • Be careful to not push the gasket past its tearing point. If the adhesive is adequately heated, it will separate from the front panel with some gentle pressure.

  38. Remove the home button assembly.
    • Remove the home button assembly.

    What is the proper way to reinstall the home button bracket?

    chris crawford - Reply

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

12 other people completed this guide.

Evan Noronha

Member since: 02/05/2015

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4 Comments

Hello,

once the button extracted, how to glue the new one ? What is the necessary material for that ?

Thanks

Kevin - Reply

Great tutorial but you should change the title to button removal. You never show how to replace it as suggested by the title.

Adam Tango - Reply

I would have appreciated some points on installing the button. I clearly missed something and the button is not solid. When I push on it it sinks into the iPad. It works but it isn’t right and I’m not willing to risk breaking the glass to try something different, especially since I still am not sure what needs to be done differently.

Nels Kristenson - Reply

I replaced the new screen of iPhone Mini 4 with same original home button. But Home button does not work. Does it requires any microsoldering to home button work?

iRepairMan - Reply

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