Introduction

Use this guide to replace the battery.

Image 1/2: Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave. Image 2/2: For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.
  • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

  • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Reply

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

hello -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Reply

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Reply

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Reply

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Reply

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Reply

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Image 1/1: Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
  • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

  • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

  • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst.

  • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

  • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Reply

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Reply

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Reply

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Reply

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Reply

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Reply

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Reply

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Reply

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Reply

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Reply

Image 1/1: The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.
  • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

  • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

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Image 1/3: Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered. Image 2/3: This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display. Image 3/3: Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Yes...wear safety glasses for sure when doing this!

Josh West - Reply

If you have ANY cracks FOR SURE do the tape. I would also make sure to wear safety glasses as it can fly all over even with the tape. And do it somewhere that you don't mind tiny glass shards going everywhere. I had one 3 inch crack in the glass in the lower right corner and it started spidering. The plastic pics don't work once well once they hit a broken point in the glass so you better have a lot of heat to loosen the adhesive, or you end up using an exacto knife to get around the cracked spots.

jesseokerlund - Reply

On a few occasions I had an unexpected pop as the glass shattered and little shards struck me in the face. I had taped the surface but pieces at the edge still managed to break free. My advice: definitely wear the safety glasses, and definitely tape the entire glass surface.

robertmhussey - Reply

Echo jesseokerlund's comments that you will have glass flying. I made the mistake of doing the repair at my kitchen table and had a lot of cleanup to do. The job would be much easier if there was no broken glass, and the hardest part is where the glass is broken right next to the bezel. I used the metal spudger to work those pieces free, but it takes some time.

robertmhussey - Reply

  • Again, as you may find yourself working with broken glass during this procedure, we strongly recommend wearing safety glasses for protection from flying shards.

  • Lay the iOpener flat on the right edge of the iPad, smoothing it out so that there is good contact between the surface of the iPad and the iOpener.

  • Let the bag sit on the iPad for approximately 90 seconds before attempting to open the front panel.

It is ver likely that the glass you are trying to replace is broken, and this is tempered glass therefore it will chatter in many small pieces while you are working on it. Take this safety advice very seriously and protect your eyes!!! The glass pieces fly everywhere. AGAIN: PROTECT YOUR EYES!!!! BE SAFE!!!

McGiord - Reply

This last statement cannot be underemphasized! I got two shards of very fine glass into my right eye, luckily got them out right away, before reaching for the safety goggles! Later on, I removed them again because working w/ the small parts was easier. Protect your eyes, people!

Lou Bomski -

Just use some scotch wide transparent tape and cover the broken screen BEFORE you start to taking it apart. It will hold all the shards together and nothing will fly around.

Vatevaaa -

I covered the screen in clear packing tape to control glass particles.

I placed the ipad outside in direct afternoon sunlight for an hour and all of the adhesive was softened quite well.....the screen was off in just a few minutes !

John - Reply

This is a very good idea John, I wish I'd seen this comment before I spent hours picking tiny bits of glass off the glue!

Tom Scott -

Thumbs up for this tip. I left it out in the sun for 15 min only and it worked a treat. I used a razor blade. The plastic tools are next to useless.

olafgoy -

I had some issues after replacing this cable.

Once I had it in and back together only the down volume was working, and shortly after the gyro gave out.

I ended up going to where the new cable connects to the board, removing it, then replacing it as gently as possible. Not too firm.

I also removed a foam spacer in that area because it was pushed out over the gyro board.

Now I'm back to full functionality!

clatekeen - Reply

me 2 my volumen up doesn't work and the switch sound/silent any fix?

Zadd -

Badly broken screen, taped and warmed about 15 minutes on heating pad set on high. Perfect, gentle, overall warming! Mark the front with Sharpie, ie WiFi, cable, etc. Used thin metal iSes... type tool and guitar pics. BUY NEW Plastic bezel!!! So super cheap. Rewarm on heating pad as necessary. Compressed air helpful to blow away tiny glass bits. Wear glasses! Take breaks! This is easy if you warm carefully and are patient!

Max - Reply

I am in the process of replacing a shattered screen on an iPad 3 wifi, and I literally was removing glass piece by piece! I do recommend having a roll of wide clear sealing tape at hand. Then, when you see loose glass shards, pull off about 4 to 5 inches, and stick the tape to pick up the loose glass, and once in a while, fold the tape onto itself (sticky to sticky side), and set it aside. This helps keep it from getting everywhere. Also, spread news paper under your work. Some people don't really think of these things, but the fact is, hardened glass will find its way into your skin very easily. Extremely sharp!

dbrown900 - Reply

This repair is a total disaster. The iOpener and the tools are utterly worthless. There will be glass everywhere no matter how much tape you use or how slowly & carefully you try to pry up the bezel. Save yourself the time, money and frustration and either pay for a service that replaces the front panel, or plunk down for a new iPad. I've done many great iFixit repairs but this one is horrible. The adhesive is too powerful and the tools they give you are too weak to do any good. Guaranteed you'll damage the LCD and destroy the internal components attempting to remove the panel. Save your time and money!

N B - Reply

Have not attempted this repair on my wife's iPad 2, but is there a reason that you put the iOpener on top of the device rather than putting the device on top of the iOpener? After all, heat rises.

Stephen Weber - Reply

Image 1/3: Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack. Image 2/3: It may require some force to get the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Work patiently and carefully, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as necessary. Image 3/3: It may require some force to get the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Work patiently and carefully, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as necessary.
  • There is a small gap in the iPad's adhesive ring in the upper right corner of the iPad, approximately 2.0 inches (~5 cm) from the top of the iPad. You are going to exploit this weakness.

  • Align the tool with the mute button. Insert the tip of a plastic opening tool into the gap between the front glass and the plastic bezel. Just insert the very tip of the opening tool, just enough to widen the crack.

  • It may require some force to get the wedged tip of the opening tool between the glass and plastic. Work patiently and carefully, wiggling the plastic opening tool back and forth as necessary.

there is the power flex cable near the top right side of the screen. It could be damaged is not careful.

ChiangFeng Li - Reply

Yes, I severed this one on my first attempt. Might note that you want to start prying open below the sound controls. Additionally I found that a razor was helpful in getting the first pic into the device. Obviously you want to be careful as a razor could cause some serious damage, but I just used the tip of the metal to get some space to fit a pick.

Nick Dresang - Reply

Maybe I was doing it wrong, but the plastic opening tool I was using kept bending before it was prying anything apart. Therefore I suggest using either a metal spudger or a razor blade to make the very first opening but being VERY careful. My assistant/wife later scratched the LCD going overboard with the metal tools.

Logan Kennedy - Reply

There is a way of making the Wifi/Bluetooth Antenna replacement much easier. If you have a steady hand and a soldering iron simply desolder the connecting cable from the bottom of the antenna and solder it back onto the new antenna. This means there is no need to dismantle the iPad and the repair is much faster. Hope this helps :-)

Richard - Reply

The process was pretty straightforward, you do need to be careful in a few spots (like the wifi antenna in the lower right) but overall I found it to be of medium level of difficulty.

It took me 2.5hrs to slowly dismantle and replace the broken screen.

Here are some tips I learned while doing it:

- instead of plastic spudger, better to use kit knife or razor blade. I found plastic to bend and malform quite easily.

- watch out for lower right corner where wifi antenna sits, it's easy to damage it

- if you have a cracked screen, use protective goggles - i used tape to secure broken glass pieces together, but that didn't quite work and lots of glass was flying as I was prying the screen off the ipad

- opening tool you put in the microwave sold here is not worth it - didn't do that great for me. I mostly used a hair drier and was very successful melting adhesive

- tools I'd only need again to do it again - guitar picks, kit knife, phillips screwdriver, hair drier :D

Overall, I found it to be quite interesting project!

michalmotykiewicz - Reply

Seconding the problem about plastic components. They just aren't strong / precise enough to fight this glass. Save them for the really nasty bits like the wifi cable, and use an X-Acto or equivalent everywhere else.

Golden Neckbeard -

Wish I would have seen your comment before I went through it. Switched to a razor blade and that helped for sure. Thought about a hair dryer as well but stuck with the micro heating tool. Probably should have done the dryer. :-/

Josh West -

Had much more success using the metal spudger versus the plastic opening tool that came with the front panel kit.

Paul Boyer - Reply

I had success using Paddle Pop sticks instead of guitar picks. (not sure what they are called in the US). The guitar picks tended to deform and melt with the heat of my hot gun. The glue used to attach the screen is just amazingly strong! It takes a lot of patience to remove all the fragments. I have done about 6 screens now and it is a turdful job!

Jack - Reply

I think we call those popsicle sticks. They seem kind of thick for this, at least a lot thicker than a guitar pick.

John -

It is not glue, they use a very strong double sided 3M tape

Odus182 -

Pay attention to the Power Button cable located in the upper right corner !!!

Nathan - Reply

Successful battery change but I did sever the cord/ribbon to the power/sleep button. As my iPad had been opened before at a repair shop, I think they put adhesive over the cord as the small section was stuck underneath the LCD, barely visible. So be careful not to put adhesive above that exposed ribbon/cord to the power/sleep button or the next time you open it up, it's severed.

Breadman - Reply

On the iPad 2 I repaired, the opening started at 1 inch and ended at 3mm.

Justin H - Reply

Like others i found the plastic tool pretty useless. Exacto, razor blade, or small metal pick/pry tool works much better to get that first guitar pick inserted. Be careful not to damage the bezel too much. Unless to plan to replace it.

B Kirkham - Reply

If you have an iPAD that has been repaired before note that the adhesive strip might not have an opening by the volume control as shown. I replaced the glass and the new glass had a 2" gap to the left of the Home button only.

winwoodc - Reply

The glass is much thinner than you'd think and I broke mine trying to lever it off before the adhesive has softened enough. Be VERY gentle!

winwoodc - Reply

My plastic opening tool broke in no time flat. Perhaps I was pressing down too hard and not wiggling it enough. But for me I found that the metal spudger was the best tool for the job. I was able to wiggle it while slowly prying up the glass and once it was under the surface of the glass I was able to work it along the edge quite easily. I saw that some people used a razor blade but I would be afraid the blade would break. The metal spudger was just thin enough to do the job well.

robertmhussey - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Make sure you place the tool in the proper spot—between the plastic display bezel and the front panel glass.

This visual is helpful. It would be great also to have a diagram of the top of the ipad, marked with "top," "bottom," "left," "right," and then an arrow pointing to each of the problematic areas, such as wifi cable, digitizer cable, etc. It would be easier to see the whole schematic while working rather than scrolling through the instructions and trying to visualize each piece separately. Good to see where to be careful...

Christa - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Keeping the tip of the plastic opening tool wedged between the front glass and plastic bezel, slide a plastic opening pick in the gap, right next to the plastic opening tool.

My screen was too broken for this "heat, cut with picks, and leave in place" method to work anywhere but the top, where it was essentially undamaged.

I wound up using a spudger through all the cracked sections to pry upwards just *inside* the perimeter of the adhesive, intentionally breaking the digitizer and the glass further, until I could remove the entire front panel except for the adhered portions - about half the perimeter in my case.

I then used tools to pry up the glass from the *opposite* direction, that is the broken interior edge I had earlier created, thus not having to fight the bezel and also having a clear line of sight to any interior components I might be damaging.

Of course, doing it this way made it much easier to drop tiny shards of glass all over the interior, but I found a little diligent cleaning much easier than trying to keep the glass intact while breaking the glue, as in this guide.

Golden Neckbeard - Reply

I found that using a scraper blade was the easiest way to get under the glass, both for broken and unbroken areas.

Jeff Snider - Reply

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the plastic opening tool from the iPad, and push the opening pick further underneath the front glass to a depth of ~0.5 inches.

It should be noted that the glass can be much more difficult to remove when it is cracked and shattered (as is usually the reason for replacement) . Depending on the location and severity of the cracks, the order and technique of removal requires modification.

I have found that putting a layer of clear packing tape over the entire screen is helpful, wether it's cracked or not. It will prevent the spraying of glass shards, should the glass break while separating the adhesive; with a broken screen, it should eliminate the risk of cutting yourself during removal, as well as hold all the pieces together. Unfortunately, it also makes the iOpener slightly less effective, so peel it back when applying it. Suction cups can also be helpful during final removal of the glass.

Having a hot air gun/pencil can be helpful in removing smaller pieces if broken glass that remain once the bulk of it is removed.

Nick V - Reply

Just trashed an I pad... Not an electronics person. Did an iphone 5 battery with no problems was following instructions and once I hit the next step I realized I had already screwed up the screen... Moving forward tring to unhook LCD pictures are not very clear on which direction to push or pull so broke that... Now writing a review on it... Take it to a pro if you aren't certain!

rondiedonelson - Reply

I found that the adhesive could be separated when the pick or spudger was in at a depth of between 1/4" (6.4 mm) and 3/8" (9.5 mm). You can always go back and work it in deeper if you are having trouble separating.

robertmhussey - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • While you work on releasing the adhesive on the right side of the iPad, reheat the iOpener, and replace it on the bottom edge of the iPad.

I have found that its better to put more than one pick down the side of the screen to keep it open and prevent it from sticking back down.

Roberto Enrieu - Reply

Image 1/3: Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. Image 2/3: The adhesive is very strong, and some serious force may be required. Work carefully. Image 3/3: If you can see the tip of the opening pick underneath the front glass, pull the pick out just a little bit. While using the opening pick this deep won't damage anything, it may get adhesive residue all over the LCD.
  • While the bottom edge is being heated by the iOpener, begin releasing the adhesive from the right edge of the iPad.

  • Slide the opening pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

  • The adhesive is very strong, and some serious force may be required. Work carefully.

  • If you can see the tip of the opening pick underneath the front glass, pull the pick out just a little bit. While using the opening pick this deep won't damage anything, it may get adhesive residue all over the LCD.

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Image 1/3: If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. Image 2/3: If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive. Image 3/3: If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
  • It may be necessary to move the heated iOpener back onto the right edge of the iPad as you release the adhesive. This depends on how long the iPad has been able to cool while you were working on it.

  • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

The volume power button cable is really close to the edge and is frequently loose and non adherent to the frame. If your pick is deep into the iPad, you are almost sure to cut the cable. Be very cautious around the top right corner of the iPad.

silvain1038 - Reply

I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

nickmalmquist - Reply

Why not work in reverse to the top edge, and back around to the area where that cable may be unsecured? Haven't don't an iPad (yet, staring one in the face right now) but that would be my alternative so the screen is mostly loose and you could possibly see the cable looking from the now open left side of the glass?

Matt Needham - Reply

Image 1/2: Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top  edge of the iPad. Image 2/2: Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top  edge of the iPad.
  • Before removing the first opening pick from the bottom corner of the iPad, insert a second pick under the right edge of the front glass to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.

  • Re-heat the iOpener, and move it to the top edge of the iPad.

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Image 1/1: The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable. Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result.
  • The next few steps require extreme caution.

  • The Wi-Fi antenna is attached to the bottom right edge of the rear case of the iPad via screws and a cable. Because of the orientation of the Wi-Fi antenna, it is imperative to proceed with caution otherwise irreversible damage to the Wi-Fi antenna may result.

  • You will have to release the adhesive securing the antenna to the front panel without damaging the delicate parts attaching the antenna to the bottom of the iPad. Follow the next steps carefully.

I cut through my wifi cable partially, but it still works (surprisingly). I'd recommend staying well clear of this with the pick. When you go to lift the screen (future step, NOT NOW), use a really good light, start to lift the glass slightly at the corner and you will be able to see the cable. Then you can heat it more and watch the cable as you pull through the adhesive there making sure your not catching the cable.

B Kirkham - Reply

If you heat the sides and top, releasing the adhesive, you can peel the broken glass front panel up from the body and with a little force the bottom comes loose. This avoids working around and damaging the Wi-Fi Antennae.

Michael Vovaris - Reply

I know it is hard to tell from the photo, but the Wi-Fi antenna is kind of like a flap that opens on the right and is attached on the left. So if you use a pick to slide from right to left, the pick might slide under the flap and then sever how it is attached. When I had my pick just to the right of where the Wi-Fi antenna is, I was able to twist my pick a little (like you are tightening a screw) and pry the screen up where the antenna is located. Then I just moved my pick to the left of the antenna and could continue loosening the screen.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Image 1/2: Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so. Image 2/2: Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so.
  • Slide the opening pick around the bottom right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.

  • Do not slide the pick further than the bottom right corner. You may damage the Wi-Fi antenna by doing so.

Be sure to have a replacement Bluetooth Wi-Fi antenna because it is very likely to get the cable broken at this step.

McGiord - Reply

Be extremely careful and patient at this step. Proceed slowly with only the tip ( 1/16th in. - 2mm max.) of the pick. There are two tinny screws that attach the bottom of the antenna to the iPad frame. This antenna part is easly severed if the pick goes too far.

Happenned to me and had to replace the antenna.

Marc Bouchard - Reply

Image 1/2: Do not completely remove the pick from under the front glass, but pull it out just a little bit so that ~1/8" of the tip is still under the front glass. Image 2/2: Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.
  • This step requires you to move the opening pick along the bottom right edge of the front panel. The Wi-Fi antenna is very close to the corner and is easily severed if the adhesive is released improperly.

  • Do not completely remove the pick from under the front glass, but pull it out just a little bit so that ~1/8" of the tip is still under the front glass.

  • Slide the tip of the opening pick along the bottom edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive over the Wi-Fi antenna.

I nearly broke my wifi antenna because I didn't read this whole step clearly and didn't go backwards and release the antenna from the front panel. Admittedly, this is my own fault but I've edited the step to make this point more clear.

Logan Kennedy - Reply

My screen was way too shattered for me to be able to use the screen instructions as suggested, so I followed the general principal but ignored the order around, because that simply wouldn't have worked...and destroyed the antenna.

Maybe step one should be "BE CAREFUL IN THIS CORNER OR YOU WILL BREAK THE ANTENNA!" A diagram highlighting where all the cables (antenna, digitiser, volume, toggle switch) lie with the screen still attached would be helpful too.

HRB - Reply

Or maybe you should have read the entire thing before starting if you were not planing on following it step by step

Hawesg Garrett -

I Broke my antenna like many others. It is glued to the glass and has 1mm thick foam backing that is also glued to the inner case. Then there is a tiny grounding connector screwed at the lower edge of the case. Once you can get things loosened up around this antenna, you will need to detach this antenna from the glass. Work at it with your picks or spudger until you get it free, if you do not get it to release from the glass you will break the grounding ribbon. I bought a cheap aftermarket antenna on amazon for $3. turns out it has a bad cable coming from it. I was able to unsolder the cable from the one I broke and solder it to the new antenna.

chrisnewitt - Reply

This BEGS for an Archer "Just The Tip" reference.

Christian - Reply

It wasn't obvious to me at first that I'd broken the antenna. A picture of the antenna that works compared with one that is broken would be useful. Fortunately I'd ordered the replacement part just in case, as suggested.

I think using extra heat on this spot may make it easier to unstick without breaking the antenna?

A diagram of what the antenna looks like, from the side, would make it clearer what to do with the pick. You are trying to detach the antenna from the glass, without ripping it off where it's screwed into the bottom of the ipad. Since you can't see what you are doing, and the antenna is quite fragile, that's tricky.

I think once you've broken one you would know better how to do it. When you slide the pick to the right you need to be sure the pick is moving above the antenna and not snagging on it in any way, and you need to be sure the antenna is completely detached from the glass, so you don't tear it when you lift the glass up.

Chris Jordan - Reply

Can anybody give me a clue as to what the exact part is in step 57, As there are slightly different cables for the ipad 2, Mine is A1395, Thanks.

Jasper - Reply

Image 1/2: Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass. Image 2/2: The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable.  This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.
  • Once you have moved past the Wi-FI antenna (approximately 3" from the right edge, or right next to the home button) re-insert the opening pick to its full depth.

  • Slide the pick to the right, releasing the adhesive securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the front glass.

    • The antenna is attached to the bottom of the iPad via screws and a cable. This step detaches the antenna from the front panel, ensuring that when you remove the panel, the antenna will not be damaged.

Be extremely cautious on this step! I did it wrong and my antenna went to !@#$.

Lars Lien Ankile - Reply

Also once it is unattached from the front panel, if the antennas adhesive touches the glass again it can re-adhere to front panel and may rip apart after all. Keep a close eye on it or leave a pick or card in there to prevent it from re-sticking.

Danny Hartley - Reply

Image 1/3: If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, reheat the iOpener to warm the adhesive where you are working. Image 2/3: Do not heat the iOpener more than a minute at a time, and always allow at least two minutes before reheating it. Image 3/3: Do not heat the iOpener more than a minute at a time, and always allow at least two minutes before reheating it.
  • Continue releasing the adhesive along the bottom of the iPad, pulling the opening pick out far enough to go around the home button, and re-inserting it to a depth of 1/2 inch once the pick is past the home button.

  • If the adhesive has cooled too much along the bottom edge, reheat the iOpener to warm the adhesive where you are working.

  • Do not heat the iOpener more than a minute at a time, and always allow at least two minutes before reheating it.

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Image 1/2: On iPad 4 models, insert the pick to a maximum depth of 1/2 inch in this area, to avoid damaging the home button ribbon cable. Image 2/2: Leave the opening pick wedged underneath the front glass near the home button.
  • Continue releasing the adhesive all the way along the bottom edge of the iPad.

    • On iPad 4 models, insert the pick to a maximum depth of 1/2 inch in this area, to avoid damaging the home button ribbon cable.

  • Leave the opening pick wedged underneath the front glass near the home button.

This should include details about the Home Button Ribbon Cable. Unlike an iPad 3 (which doesn't have this cable) the iPad 4 has a Home Button Ribbon Cable that runs along the left side of the Home Button and is adhered to the glass. If the guitar pick is inserted too far (more than 0.5") it is possible to damage or sever this cable.

robjpete - Reply

There is a reason this is an iPad 2 Wi-Fi EMC-2560 repair guide. This guide isn't for iPad 3 or 4...

Christian -

I think the guides carry common steps between them. I'm reading this string of comments on multiple ipad 3/4 repair guides.

Anticept - Reply

Can I suggest putting the warning in red at the top of the instruction rather than half-way through it? I work from these guides by scrolling through them as I go, and I'd already put the spudger through the ribbon cable before I read the warning!

spl23 - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave and set it on the left edge of the iPad to start warming the adhesive in that section.

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Image 1/3: The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad. Image 2/3: If the adhesive has cooled too much, replace the iOpener along the top edge and continue working. If the iOpener has cooled  too much, reheat it. Image 3/3: If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick as shown in [guide|10808|step 9|stepid=38829].
  • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, pulling it out slightly to go around the front-facing camera bracket.

  • The adhesive along this section is very thick, and a fair amount of force may be required. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not slip and damage yourself or your iPad.

  • If the adhesive has cooled too much, replace the iOpener along the top edge and continue working. If the iOpener has cooled too much, reheat it.

  • If the opening pick is getting stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick as shown in step 9.

In my case I damaged the right GSM antenna which was somehow sticked to the front panel... Be really careful as I really didn't felt that I was damaging anything...

MattLise Gaillzik - Reply

+1 on the right 3g antenna - it is adhered to the glass and I cut right through it with the opening pick. The replacement included adhesive to re-stick it to the glass, so this is a definite feature of this antenna. This is a thin film similar to the wifi antenna, so maybe going around it at a shallow depth from the corner to the camera and then returning to the corner slightly deeper would allow you to separate the antenna from the glass without damaging it.

doog - Reply

Be very careful when going around the front camera, I cracked my screen by prying up too much and causing too much stress!

Rowdydtk - Reply

The GSM component is glued to the screen with different adhesive (more like glue). I managed to not damage this but it was really tricky. The guitar pick is too thick and weak to release this from the screen. Id recommend you wait until you lift the glass (future step, NOT NOW). Then, with a good light you'll see the white plastic adhered to the glass. A thin metal pick or exacto is needed to patiently cut & pry your way through the adhesive. Careful of the camera as your pulling in that direction.

B Kirkham - Reply

Image 1/2: If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work. Image 2/2: If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work.
  • Continue releasing the adhesive along the top edge of the iPad, and slide the opening pick around the top left corner.

  • If the adhesive is warm enough, remove the iOpener from the iPad for convenience. However, if the adhesive is still quite sticky, re-heat the iOpener and lay it on the left edge while you work.

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Image 1/3: The digitizer cable is located approximately  2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad. Image 2/3: The digitizer cable is located approximately  2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad. Image 3/3: The digitizer cable is located approximately  2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.
  • Slide the opening pick along the left edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go. The adhesive is thin here due to the digitizer along the whole left side. Make sure the pick is not too deep (max 1/2 inch) to prevent damaging the digitizer.

  • The digitizer cable is located approximately 2" from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding the pick when you get ~2.25" from the bottom of the iPad.

The second photo does not show the iPad 4's Home Button Ribbon Cable.

robjpete - Reply

Because this is for an iPad 2

Odus182 -

This is the hardest part the digitizer cable runs the length of this side and u have to be very carefull with the pick . Only go in an 1/8 inch I severed it by going the half (recommended) luckily I had a new screen standing by . I used I opener for heating and it was slow but ok.

wperrin623 - Reply

How do i fix my digitiser if it's broken? Do i need to buy a new iPad screen with digitiser?

Jenny Le - Reply

just ruined my digitiser..any ideas how to fix it?

dleimonis -

Image 1/2: The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable. Image 2/2: The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.
  • Using the opening pick that is still underneath the bottom edge of the iPad, release the adhesive along the bottom left corner.

  • The bottom of the digitizer cable is only ~1" from the bottom of the iPad. Work carefully and slowly, making sure to not sever this cable.

If your screen is broken or shattered there are no worries with the digitizer cable, It is all on the new screen.

Danny Hartley - Reply

Exactly. I purposely severed mine as it was a complete screen replacement and made the LCD removal easier.

jesseokerlund - Reply

Image 1/2: Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive. Image 2/2: Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.
  • Using one of the opening picks, pry up the bottom right corner of the iPad and grab it with your fingers.

  • Some of the adhesive along the perimeter of the iPad may have stuck back down again. If this is the case, slide a pick underneath the edge of the iPad where the front glass is still stuck and "cut" the adhesive.

Should be right-hand corner

longg - Reply

Be very careful when pushing the guitar pick around the corner of the power/volume buttons. The ribbon cable for these buttons may be stuck to the adhesive and break when lifting the screen or when sliding the pick along this area. I have done 4 iPad 2 repairs and at least one of the delicate components do not make it. I would recommend ordering a wi-fi/bluetooth antenna, bezel with strips, and a power/volume cable. It is nice to have a "just-in-case" part or two, they are very inexpensive. I noticed that the I tended to break one of these delicate components when the screen was shattered in the area of those components.

thetechandtutor - Reply

I absolutely severed this cable when loosening the adhesive around the volume button area. There is really no way of knowing if this cable somewhat elevated from the frame and therefore susceptible to being cut, and it happens to be right where one starts to remove the face with the guitar picks. The cable is directly in from the down volume button, so be extra careful not to put the guitar pick in too far in this area. I recommend buying a power/volume button cable just in case. Replacing this cable is also not easy, but doable. Just try to avoid doing it.

nickmalmquist - Reply

At this point it is a good idea to get the packing tape back out and wrap it around 2 or 3 of your fingers making a circle with the sticky on the outside. Make it loose enough you can place your fingers on the table surface to the side and pull your fingers out. When you remove all the tiny parts/screws in the next steps put them on top of the tape so you know exactly where they are when you need them

windizy - Reply

Image 1/2: Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down. Image 2/2: Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.
  • Holding the iPad by the top and bottom right corners, rotate the front glass away from the iPad.

  • Be careful of any adhesive that may still be attached, and use an opening pick to cut any adhesive that may still be holding the front panel down.

Check to the right of the Home button to see if the wifi/bluetooth antenna is still stuck to the glass side or has released. If it is still stuck to the glass use the guitar pick to carefully scrape it off. If your goal is to replace the antenna, then you needn't be so careful.

jerry81 - Reply

Be very careful not to touch the LCD. It's a pain to remove smudges. One thing that might help when you need to hold it while reattaching it during reassembly: attach a small suction cup to the metal side. That way you can avoid touching the sides where your hand might slip to the LCD side.

patjmccarthy - Reply

Do you need to use some adhesive strips to remount the plastic bezel? The bezel I ordered didn't come with any and the ones you can order only seem to have strips for mounting the glass and not the bezel.

James - Reply

You'd better. The original bezel is glued. You can find 3mm fine/double-sided (black) tape on Amazon. I use it when I replace the bezel because they fit perfectly under the bezel. I use for all sorts of repairs on iPhones, Samsungs, etc. Such as this [one|http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GIS...]

Rany -

In order to prevent touching the LCD screen with your finger(s), I use the thin plastic food wrapper to cover it. It will temporary stick to the LCD screen and provide excellent protection from fingerprints.

Th Th - Reply

Very good suggestion. It worked like a charm.

Laurie Higgins -

you can use latex gloves to keep smudges and finger prints from the screen. I'm getting ready to repair mine, thanks for all the comments and tips. Btw, I wonder if a vacuum cleaner would work for removing small pieces of glass.

De Dios sept.10 2014

dediosjon - Reply

where is the connecotr for home button at the ipad 3....i have nothin where i can plug in the flex cable comin from the button

Georg Heinze - Reply

Go slowly as you lift up the glass and be sure that you are not tearing a ribbon cable. When I lifted the glass the digitizer cable was torn and unusable. Perhaps I had cut it with the pick/spudger but it tore completely off when I lifted the glass. Good thing I had purchased the full front panel assembly with the digitizer (IF116-018-3).

robertmhussey - Reply

When reassembling I used canned air to blow off dust on the LCD before closing it up.

robertmhussey - Reply

You can use a clean soft brush like a make-up brush or small paint brush to brush off the LCD.

Laurie Higgins - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Remove the four 2.0 mm Phillips screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

It would be good to see how reassembling.

Gabriel Ganga - Reply

Yes, or at least show where the adhesive parts go

Luke Barone - Reply

I'll second the request to see how to reassemble!

Maggie - Reply

Image 1/2: Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its display data cable will remain connected while it is rotated over. Image 2/2: Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.
  • The front panel ribbon cables are connected beneath the LCD. To access them, you'll need to temporarily flip the LCD over and out of the way.

    • Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its display data cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.

  • Set the LCD face down on the front panel.

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Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, '''not''' the sockets themselves. Image 2/2: The retaining flaps are highlighted in red in the second picture.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully flip up the retaining flaps on the two digitizer ribbon cable ZIF sockets.

  • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flaps, not the sockets themselves.

  • The retaining flaps are highlighted in red in the second picture.

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Image 1/2: Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case. Image 2/2: Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to peel the digitizer cable off the shields on the logic board.

  • Carefully pull the digitizer cable off the adhesive securing it to the side of the rear case.

It is a really good idea to apply a bit of heat to this ribbon cable prior to removal. Ribbon cables that are held in place with adhesive can tear easily. Taking a moment to warm it up will help make the removal much easier.

Joshua - Reply

Image 1/1:
  • Pull the digitizer ribbon cable straight out of its two sockets on the logic board.

After I replaced the digitizer only half the screen is working. Any reason for this problem ?

Pedro Trindade - Reply

Image 1/2: Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its cable will remain connected while it is rotated over. Image 2/2: Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book.
  • In order to remove the front panel assembly, the ribbon cable needs to slide out between the case and the LCD. You'll need to move the LCD to make some room.

    • Be very careful when moving the LCD, and do not attempt to remove it from the iPad—its cable will remain connected while it is rotated over.

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge farthest from the digitizer cable and gently flip it toward the rear case—like closing a book.

  • While holding the LCD up, gently slide the front panel away from the iPad. Be careful not to snag the digitizer cable on the rear case or LCD.

    • Set the LCD back into the body for safekeeping.

(Step 14 should be deleted.)

John Cain - Reply

why it should be deleted?

i think it's necessary to remove the digitizer cable before we lift up the logicboard

Can Han -

It should go without saying, but anytime you are handling the LCD, try to only touch the edges. Otherwise you'll be scrubbing fingerprints for 15 minutes. Not that I'm speaking from personal experience or anything.

Ed Chapman - Reply

random question...........1 problem i've ran into in the past is the digitizer cable is so long on aftermarket screens the adhesive isn't strong enough to hold the glass down around the digitizer area where it is folded.

would it help to have a 2nd person tilt glass straight up off table and tuck some extra cable under the lcd or will this cause a problem with the lcd itself?

Jason S - Reply

Image 1/1: Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.
  • In order to work on the iPad's innards, we need to flip the LCD back out of the case.

  • Lift the LCD from its long edge closest to the volume buttons and gently flip it out of the rear case—like turning the page in a book.

  • Set the LCD face down on a clean surface. You may want to rest it on a soft cloth to prevent scratches.

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Image 1/3: Pull the display data cable out of its socket. Image 2/3: Be careful not pull the connector upward as you disconnect it from its socket. Image 3/3: Be careful not pull the connector upward as you disconnect it from its socket.
  • Use a plastic opening tool to lift the display data cable lock upwards.

  • Pull the display data cable out of its socket.

  • Be careful not pull the connector upward as you disconnect it from its socket.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the LCD assembly from the rear panel assembly.

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Image 1/3: Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock connector cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/3: Peel the dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel. Image 3/3: Peel the dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel.
  • If present, use a plastic opening tool to help remove the piece of tape covering the end of the dock connector cable.

  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock connector cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Peel the dock connector ribbon cable off the rear panel.

I had to peel this up with my fingernail. The spudger can't get under it. Work it slowly.

patjmccarthy - Reply

Image 1/1: Be careful to pry only the connector, not the socket on the logic board, or you may destroy the socket.
  • Pry the speaker cable connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Be careful to pry only the connector, not the socket on the logic board, or you may destroy the socket.

Be VERY VERY careful NOT to pry off speaker connector receptical from logic board at this step!!!

1digital - Reply

I got my wifi to work but i messed up the spekaer cable. the whole thing came off the logic board. Any ideas how to fix it? do i need to get a new logic board?

Omar - Reply

Don't even bother with this step. you can still remove the cable.

There is a high risk of removing the socket with the cable as i did.

Thank God my wifi and blue tooth work so sound can come from there.

Jon - Reply

I didn't bother to unplug this cable, just unstuck the cable from where it's taped down. You then have plenty of slack so you can tilt the logic board to access the antenna connector. Seems like a safer way to do it since some folks report they broke the socket here.

Chris Jordan - Reply

Omg I wish I had read the comments first, disconnecting the speaker cable is entirely unnecessary, and the directives don't give you enough guidance- I pried upwards and of course unknowingly disconnected the socket from the motherboard! Sh*t. Now trying to figure out how to remedy it, when it wasn't a problem to begin with. So frustrating to cause MORE damage because of an unnecessary step! Argh.

Robyn Sazonov - Reply

With no other options to resort to, I attempted to glue the speaker cable back down. .. I used super glue and was careful to make sure the metal connectors were well aligned. .. knock on wood, it seems to have worked. I guess if it ceases to be a sufficient fix, replacing the motherboard might be the next step, or maybe soldering the connectors back together? Try to avoid this in the first place by either leaving it connected or gently prying under the wires themselves to disconnect from the socket.

Robyn Sazonov - Reply

Image 1/2: Be sure you are prying upward on the hinged retaining flap, '''not''' the socket itself. Image 2/2: Peel the headphone jack and front camera cable off the rear case.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flap on the headphone jack and front camera cable ZIF socket.

  • Be sure you are prying upward on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

  • Peel the headphone jack and front camera cable off the rear case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Pull the headphone jack and front camera ribbon cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

The headphone cable just needs to be disconnected. That's all. No need to separate from the rear case (there's a lot of adhesive holding it.

patjmccarthy - Reply

Image 1/2: Pull the connector away from its socket on the logic board. Image 2/2: Do not lift the cable upward as you disconnect it.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retainer securing the control board cable connector to its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the connector away from its socket on the logic board.

  • Do not lift the cable upward as you disconnect it.

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Image 1/2: Remove the logic board bracket from the rear case. Image 2/2: Remove the logic board bracket from the rear case.
  • Remove the two 2.1 mm Phillips screws securing the logic board bracket to the rear case near the digitizer cable socket.

  • Remove the logic board bracket from the rear case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the remaining three 2.6 mm Phillips screws securing the logic board to the rear case.

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Image 1/1:
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the logic board up from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

The adhesive holding the board to the rear board is very strong. Pry slowly all around and use some force when you've loosened it as much as you can.

patjmccarthy - Reply

Image 1/1: Do not try to completely remove it just yet. There is still an antenna cable attached to it.
  • Lift the logic board out from the rear case and tilt it slightly toward the battery.

  • Do not try to completely remove it just yet. There is still an antenna cable attached to it.

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Image 1/1: Remove the logic board from the iPad 2.
  • Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to pry the Wi-Fi antenna connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  • Remove the logic board from the iPad 2.

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Image 1/3: Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute. Image 2/3: Place the heated iOpener on the back of the iPad just right of center (the side opposite the rear facing camera). Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive. Image 3/3: Move the iOpener to the center of the back of the iPad and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.
  • Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.

  • Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.

  • Place the heated iOpener on the back of the iPad just right of center (the side opposite the rear facing camera). Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.

  • Move the iOpener to the center of the back of the iPad and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.

    • If the iOpener cools significantly between sittings, reheat it for another minute.

  • Move the iOpener to the left edge (the side with the rear facing camera) of the back of the iPad and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.

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Image 1/2: Run the flat end of a spudger along the two long sides of each battery cell to completely separate them from the adhesive securing them to the rear case. Image 2/2: If the adhesive is very difficult to separate, reheat the rear panel and try again.
  • Starting with the battery cell closest to the dock connector, run a plastic opening tool underneath the edge of the battery closest to the logic board void to make enough room to insert the flat end of a spudger

  • Run the flat end of a spudger along the two long sides of each battery cell to completely separate them from the adhesive securing them to the rear case.

  • If the adhesive is very difficult to separate, reheat the rear panel and try again.

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Image 1/1: Do not excessively bend the battery connector board. Be especially careful when prying up around the screw post on the aluminum rear case.
  • Before prying up the middle battery cell, use the edge of a plastic opening tool to lift the battery connector board away from the rear panel.

  • Do not excessively bend the battery connector board. Be especially careful when prying up around the screw post on the aluminum rear case.

My batt was really hard to take from the iPad. It ended burning when I was prying the connector, so I had to buy a new one.

Franco Albano - Reply

Image 1/1: Repeat the process for the final battery cell, reheating the case if necessary.
  • Next use your spudger to separate the adhesive along the long sides of the middle battery cell.

  • Repeat the process for the final battery cell, reheating the case if necessary.

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Image 1/1:
  • Carefully lift the battery out of the rear panel and remove it from the iPad 2.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these directions in reverse and use our iPad 2 Wi-Fi Front Panel Adhesive strips guide to reattach the front panel.

58 other people completed this guide.

3 Comments

In step 23 the battery screw is not 1.6 mm its a bit larger, bit carefull!! Put it in the right order!!

hrn1203 - Reply

Could you use a heat gun instead of the iopener?

jan hoek - Reply

my battery is getting hot when i move it..?? did somebody else had this ?

Jeroen - Reply

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