Danger
Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.
Danger

Introduction

If your iMac was configured with a solid state drive or Fusion Drive, it includes a blade SSD on the back of the logic board. Use this guide to access and remove the blade SSD.

Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply.

Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
  • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.

  • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

Clark Green - Reply

A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

Dan -

Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
  • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

  • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

  • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

Gerry - Reply

Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner. Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner. Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.
  • Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

Add Comment

Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
  • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

Add Comment

Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
  • Continue along the top of the display.

  • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

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Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
  • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

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Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
  • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

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Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
  • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

  • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

Add Comment

While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
  • While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

  • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

  • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8", or you may damage internal components.

I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

Peter Fischer - Reply

Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

Edgar Broekema - Reply

Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame. Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".
  • Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame.

  • Move slowly and be careful not to stress the display glass too much—you only need to make a gap of about 1/4".

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Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it. Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive. Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.
  • Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

  • Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

Add Comment

Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling. Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.
  • Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

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Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner. Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner. Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.
  • Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

Add Comment

Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
  • Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

  • As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

Add Comment

Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
  • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

Add Comment

Insert the card back into the top left corner. Insert the card back into the top left corner.
  • Insert the card back into the top left corner.

Add Comment

Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables. With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
  • Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

  • With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.

  • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.

  • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

Add Comment

While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
  • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

Alastair Lack - Reply

Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Disconnect the display data cable. This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.
  • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

  • Disconnect the display data cable.

    • This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

chansung park - Reply

Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

Dan -

Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

redfoxydarrest - Reply

Sorry damaged display

Dan -

I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

john - Reply

I agree! +1

Jim Reitz -

Deck the Halls
With tools and Fix Kits
Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
  • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

  • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

  • Remove as much of the adhesive as possible by grabbing it at the outer edges, and then pulling or rolling it towards the middle.

Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

dforgues - Reply

Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

David Zemsky - Reply

If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip. Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red). Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).
  • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

Wizbang FL - Reply

you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

Thomas Webb - Reply

What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

Eric - Reply

Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.
  • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass.

  • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac.

  • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

Add Comment

  • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.

Add Comment

Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.
  • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

Add Comment

Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket. De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board. If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.
  • Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket.

  • De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.

  • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

Add Comment

Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock. Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

  • Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

brianyu - Reply

The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

Robert -

there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

Thomas Webb - Reply

Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

Joseph Ashe - Reply

Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5"). Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").
  • Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").

Add Comment

Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker. Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker. Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.
  • Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

Add Comment

Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker. Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.
  • Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

  • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.

    • Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.

I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

Robert - Reply

me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

Alber Einsten -

Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

Matthew Gonzalez -

Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive. Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.
  • Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

Add Comment

Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.
  • Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

Robert - Reply

Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

webmail54 - Reply

Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together. Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left. Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.
  • Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

  • Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.

  • Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

Add Comment

Remove the left hard drive bracket. Remove the left hard drive bracket.
  • Remove the left hard drive bracket.

Add Comment

When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.
  • When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.

I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

MrSchaeffer - Reply

I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

jimboom006 - Reply

I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

Joseph Ashe - Reply

Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case:
  • Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case:

    • Two 23.7 mm T10 screws.

    • Two 7.3 mm T10 screws.

In the iMac I just bought (2016), these were not T10. I believe they are T9. Can anyone confirm?

Morgan Crossley - Reply

Regarding the screws on the power supply board (step 35), I can confirm these are not T10 screws as shown in the guide. In my Late 2015 Retina 5k model, the screws are T8. Morgan mentioned T9 and depending on your T9 driver, it may just barely fit but can easily slip and strip the screw. A T8 driver goes deeper in and holds the screw properly.

smudge -

Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables. Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board. Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.
  • Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables.

  • Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.

Add Comment

Pull the DC power cable straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board. Pull the DC power cable straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.
  • Pull the DC power cable straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

Manuel Collazo - Reply

Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

David Zemsky - Reply

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges. Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector. Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.
  • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

  • Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.

  • Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.

To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

Dan H - Reply

Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.
  • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

Add Comment

Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board. Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.
  • Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.

Add Comment

Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket. Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.
  • Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.

Add Comment

Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.
  • Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

Add Comment

Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

Add Comment

Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly. Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct, you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.
  • Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly.

  • Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct, you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.

Add Comment

Remove three 12.4 mm T10 screws securing the fan to the rear case.
  • Remove three 12.4 mm T10 screws securing the fan to the rear case.

Add Comment

Remove the fan from the iMac. Remove the fan from the iMac.
  • Remove the fan from the iMac.

Add Comment

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card. Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. From left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order: Leftmost
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

  • Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. From left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order:

    • Leftmost

    • Top

    • Upper right

    • Lower right

My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

Greg Freeman - Reply

This is a delicate connection that can be easily broken. Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable. Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.
  • This is a delicate connection that can be easily broken.

  • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable.

  • Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

Tony Ross - Reply

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Gently push the cable out of the way. Gently push the cable out of the way.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • Gently push the cable out of the way.

Add Comment

Remove the following screws from the front of the logic board: Two 23.7 mm T10 screws
  • Remove the following screws from the front of the logic board:

    • Two 23.7 mm T10 screws

    • Four 7.4 mm T10 screws

    • One 20.8 mm T25 spacer screw

    • One captive T10 screw

      • This screw is beneath a hole in the logic board. You'll need a fixed screwdriver or the 60 mm extension from an iFixit driver kit to reach it.

The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

MrSchaeffer - Reply

The hard drive SATA cable can't be removed just yet, but will get in the way of removing the logic board. Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port. Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.
  • The hard drive SATA cable can't be removed just yet, but will get in the way of removing the logic board.

  • Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.

Add Comment

Remove two 5.7 mm T10 screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.
  • Remove two 5.7 mm T10 screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.

Add Comment

Tilt the logic board slightly forward. Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case. Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.
  • Tilt the logic board slightly forward.

  • Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.

Add Comment

When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws. You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.
  • When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws.

  • You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.

Add Comment

Pull up on the SATA power cable connector to disconnect it. Unplug the SATA data cable connector by lifting it up. Remove the SATA cable from the logic board assembly to get it out of the way and prevent it from being damaged.
  • Pull up on the SATA power cable connector to disconnect it.

  • Unplug the SATA data cable connector by lifting it up.

  • Remove the SATA cable from the logic board assembly to get it out of the way and prevent it from being damaged.

Where is this cable sold

mert - Reply

Remove the single 5.3 mm T9 screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
  • Remove the single 5.3 mm T9 screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

What type och screw is this? I just need the measurements, is it a standard M-size screw?

Peter - Reply

Where can we buy and SSD like that?

i found this one on amazon... it is not specified for imac ...

http://www.amazon.ca/OWC-2012-2013-MacBo...

Création site web http://www.bionique.net

bioniqueultra - Reply

To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively. Lift the end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board. When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.
  • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

  • Lift the end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

  • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

this ssd is not for a late 2013!

this is 2012 year

cslbox - Reply

What do you mean? I'm going to buy a ssd to add it in my imac 27 late 2013 the came without it.

Which part I need?

MrSchaeffer -

I think what he meant to say is the SSD shown (Samsun) is for a late 2013. The 2014 iMac uses a Sandisk unit (see the 5k teardown).

Ifixit have made the mistake of referencing the late 2013 iMac teardown photos here.

Brent -

Actually the picture show the late 2012 pcie connector. (8+18 pins)

(http://www.macbidouille.com/articles/488...)

.

After late 2013, (21.5", 27" and 27" 5K) the connector has changed. (12+16 pins)

(http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...)

.

(You can see the actual one here : iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Teardown)

.

After late 2013, you can only place a MacBook Pro late 2013 and after ssd !!

Cecil His Mahier -

which ssd used in this tutorial ?

where can I buy ?

;)

AlexFull - Reply

I Use a little bit of glue to fix the ssd pcie to the logic board

MrSchaeffer - Reply

Which SSD is used in this tutorial?

Lok - Reply

Thanks Cecil His Mahier

hope you are right

i bought this type http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...

to put it in iMac 27 late 2015

hope it will work

Fanny Augier - Reply

Just wondering if the SSD worked with your Imac

"i bought this type http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...

Jack Watkins -

yes this is the good one

but now i plugged the ssd

the imac don't want to start, power supply is ok ( i tested it ), but the LEDs of the logic board are all OFF

can someone help me ? is my logic board dead or there is special move to do when you plug something ?

Fanny Augier -

For people knowledge :

i have iMac 5k late 2015

i put exactly this SSD on it :

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

IT IS WORKING !

( i bought it on market like eBay )

Fanny Augier -

i got iMac 5k late 2015

i confirm the SSD you can see here is working : iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Teardown

i buy it on eBay

Fanny Augier -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our adhesive strip replacement guide to reattach the display glass.

85 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

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41 Comments

Does it mean that I can install Mavericks to the new hard drive rather than Yosemite for imac retina new model. I really dont like Yosemite.

ulas sunar - Reply

Hello,

So i have maxed out version of 2014 iMac 5k with 3TB fusion drive. I am looking to replace above described SSD with crucial 920 gb ssd. Is there other brands of compatible ssd's you would recommend? Will this new ssd still act as fusion drive or can I install OS X separately on it?

Thanks

romanvm - Reply

If I want to swap the fusion drive with a SSD, do I need to remove the SSD-part of the fusion drive as well or can it be left behind?

mhjvdven - Reply

Does anybody know if 5K Retina iMacs purchased *without* Fusion Drives come with SSD connectors inside?

loccie - Reply

Answering my own question: YES

loccie -

What type of the SSD is used for the imac 5K.

nuieskater - Reply

check my post. I only found used in ebay, and I am not sure about the amperage.

I also not mentioned that there are some 1tb that are larger than the smallers gb. But that seems be ok

Alber Einsten -

I just bought the late 2015 27 5k imac (fusion drive 1tb) and I intent to upgrade everything on it

since in the teardown we see this is the same ssd that was in the macbook pro retina 13" late 2013, and until 2015 macbook pro did not changed the ssd type... I looked for it on ebay, a lot of seller sell those apple used SSDs from some sellers include a Compatible list:

Mac Pro Late 2013 and newer

iMac Late 2013-

Mac mini 2014

Macbook Pro Late 2013-

MacBook Air 13 and 11" 2013-

size, pins, and voltage are always the same, but there is some variations in the Ampere spech. I tried find something about but I couldn't discovery if it will be relevant.

There are 2 and 4 lanes versions (4 is faster)

also there are samsung and sandisk options (any doubt abou the better?)

I ignored the amperage diference and bought one that is 2,5A (samsung MZ-JPU256T/0A6). the late 2015 came with a no specified manufacturer and no specs on it. I did right or a mistake?

Alber Einsten - Reply

Hello ....did you test it ? Works Ok on iMac 5K - Late 2015 - 17.1 ? Thank you !!!

ysaine -

I want to do the same thing, did this work for you?

michael -

I replaced the HDD with a Samsung 850 Pro (late 2015 iMac). Removing the "fusion drive" was not necessary -- if you install OS X from scratch, you can configure the two drives to work in parallel.

Aleksi Asikainen - Reply

Thanks for answer my question, before ask :)

mralexanderclark75 -

Can i just replace only the moving hard drive and leave the solid state the mac came with, that would make the world easy.

maessttrro - Reply

can i buy brand new 2016 imac 5k 27" 3.2GHz Processor

1TB Storage (without fusion drive) and do this upgrade after???

mrmoraesgil - Reply

So - it's about an inch above the ports on the back - anybody want to try using a dremel to make the %#*@ door that should have been there in the first place? :)

szeglowski - Reply

I have a quick question, on the owc site they show you don't have to take the logic board out. You can actually replace the stock 7200 HD with a new bracket and a SSD, attach a heat sensor, plugin, and put screen back on.

Is that also a correct way to upgrade the system? I have a MK462/A1419 system that I want to replace the HD and add and SSD to the system. As a 2nd choice, am I able to add a SSD to the logic board that will now act as a fusion drive with the original HD in place? Thanks for all your help.

Anthony - Reply

I have a 2015 27'' retina with 256GB SSD and I want to put a 1 or 2TB SSD in. Do I need to do the full tear down, or can I just put it in place of where the HDD is in this demo?

intoximacated - Reply

Is it posible to use HDD and SSD without "fusion drive" functional? I have imac 5k with HDD only. But i want to add ssd as second drive. Thank you

Aleksey Kazakov - Reply

Hello,

Is possible to add an SSD pci to iMac 5K 27" LATE 2015, which came without fusion drive?

I will have this connection on the motherboard?

Thanks

Eugeniu Tambur - Reply

Same question?

michael -

Hello everyone, i want to know one thing about Imac 27" 5k table stand is openable or not....?

pabitra - Reply

I heard it's not. You have to choose the vesa mount option when you purchase.

dkhyun -

I have the iMac 27 5K late 2015 with 1TB Fusion drive. The SSD drive is 24GB and the hard drive is 1TB 7200rpm. Can the hard drive be change to a Samsung 1TB SSD drive or not? I have not seen anyone commenting on this. Everyone seems to want to upgrade the SSD drive instead. I think the hard drive would be the easiest thing to do. Someone please help. Thanks

Rolo Carba - Reply

I own a Late 2015 27” iMac 3.2 GHz Quad-core Intel Core i5 with Retina 5K display and 1 TB HDD. I find it slow and want to install a Fusion Drive.

Question: Is the internal SSD in the 2013 and later MacBook series, specifically, the Late 2013 15" MacBook Pro exactly the same as the blade style SSD in the Late 2015 iMac?

MacBook Pro Replacement Drives:

https://eshop.macsales.com/shop/ssd/owc/...

I ask because I would like to take the 500 GB blade style SSD out of my late 2013 15" MacBook Pro and use it in the 27" iMac. I will also replace the current 1 TB HDD in the iMac with this 6TB drive:

https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Toshiba/... Then I can configure both drives as big ass Fusion drive.

FYI: I plan to replace the current MacBook Pro drive with a 1 TB SSD:

https://eshop.macsales.com/shop/ssd/owc/....

michael - Reply

Hi guys, I'm Rik from Florence. Today I went to a apple reseller because my imac 5k 27 has only one 250gb ssd, without any other disk. They told me that my imac is not upgradable because inside there aren't any cable for an other disk. I asked if was possible to remove my ssd with other bigger but they said that maybe the ssd inside the imac is settled. Any other official upgrade on my imac is forbidden and will cause the warranty end. I think it's a shame. I paid more than 3000€ for an not upgradable computer??? ps. sorry for my poor english

ilminia - Reply

Okay, so the late 2015 (October) 1TB Fusion has a 24gb SSD and a 1TB HDD in combination - My understanding is that the earlier 1TB Fusion Drives were 128GB SSD + 1TB HDD - and were mounted separately. What I am not sure of is whether the tiny 24gb is mounted on the logic board like the larger ones, or mounted inside the larger disc like some of the Seagate SSHD hybrid drives. That is my first question.

As to the question of whether the sockets for SSD are still in place to add a SSD to the iMac units that only come with the larger HDD, I think that was answered yes above. Now about the iMacs that come with only small SSDs (256 or 512) is there an unused SATA connector on the logic board where you could add a SATA cable and install another disc (SSH or HDD)? I do know there are cables available if the socket is there.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a late 2015 unit and wonder whether I want to get one with the 1TB HDD and add two big SSDs or just pay the extra $500 to get the model with the 2TB Fusion?

Uncle Reggie - Reply

Hi Guys and SSD Experts .... :-)

I needa a hint from your end ... because I'm a little bit confused because most descriptions that I found are showing how to replace the internal HDD against a SSD.

I purchased a iMac 5k 27, with internal 256 SSD. from the Apple Store in 2015.

So it's a pure SSD Model (no Fusion Drive).

Now I would like to upgrade the 256 SSD with a larger 1 TB SSD.

My thought was that the iMac 5k SSD Version runs a normal 2,5 " SSD.

Is it possible to buy a normal 2,5 " SSD with 1 TB and to insert it at that place where normally the Fusion Drive is located?

Do I need any specific set of cables, etc because of an thermal sensor?

I prefer to runt he iMac with an larger internal SSD. So an external Thunderbolt SSD isn't my preferred option.

Thanks for any comments, support.

G. M. - Reply

You have a 2.5" SSD and not a blade SSD? If your iMac has a 2.5" SSD, just remove the screen, remove the left speaker for access to the left hard drive bracket, unscrew and remove the left hard drive bracket, unplug and remove the SSD and install the new one.

If however your iMac came with a blade SSD only, you can install a 3.5" HDD or 2.5" SSD, but you need a mount to fit the 2.5" SSD in the 3.5" HDD bracket, if there's even a bracket there at all. If not, find a creative way to keep in it place I guess...

You also need a specific SATA cable (see guide I linked below). Use it as a reference to see where the HDD/SSD is mounted and where the SATA cable needs to plug in (it's not a normal SATA cable). I was able to connect the it without removing the logic board, but it's not easy as the logic board is installed backside up. It needs to connect to both its on-board power connector and the on-board SATA slot:

iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 SATA Cable Replacement

mikai -

Another note: thermal sensor is not required for SSDs on systems using OS X El Capitan/Sierra. I installed an SSD without one. No fan throttling at all.

mikai -

imac 27" 5k ssd (sm0256g) replacement---My computer has Apple sm0256g ssd... Can I use Samsung 960 Evo M.2 500gb Sata3 Pcıe 3200/1800 Ssd Mz-V6e500bw instead? please help me.

mert - Reply

No, unfortunately. The proprietary Apple SSD has a unique slot configuration. It just simply won't fit. I've replaced the SSD of my iMac 27 5k and had to buy the SM0512G.

See the pictures below and look at the end of each. They are different.

960 EVO:

https://images10.newegg.com/ProductImage...

SM0256G/SM0512G:

http://www.storagereview.com/images/YlRI...

mikai -

Hi Mikai, where did you buy your SM0512G? Thank you!

Ernest -

OWD has SSDs that would fit, for example: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/SSDA...

Huub Everstijn - Reply

@mikai thanks for advice. I can confirm satisfied. No special and expensive thermal sensor cable needed on my iMac 2015 Retina! I replaced HDD with a Samsung SSD under OS X El Capitan.

mappo - Reply

Okay. External SSD thunderbolt drive only for me.

Jim Hassinger - Reply

Hi there,

I would like to add a 256 GB PCIe SSD on my iMac 27 5k late 2015 which only has 1TB HDD. I read that it has the PCIe interface to install a blade SSD but I cannot find any on the Internet. Can someone please suggest me possible sellers (especially in Europe)?

Thanks in advance

Francesco - Reply

iMac 27 5k late 2015:

Forgive me if this was asked already — but if I want to switch from a 24gig ssd / 1tb hdd fusion configuration to a strictly ssd config, which PCIe SSD can I use? I wrote OWC to see if I can use any of their PCIe blades, but they wrote back that they don’t make one that works for this model — but now that I’m doing a little more digging it looks like I’m finding old eBay listings for the SM0512G that point to it being used in the Macbook Air line.

Anyone have luck with an OWC PCIe blade as their main drive? Any lucky with a Macbook Air SSD?

If I’m going to upgrade to a SSD, I want it to use the fastest connection possible so the 2.5 drive isn’t optimal.

Any help appreciated, have a great day.

Matt

Matt - Reply

I remove the fusion drive(24GB ssd blade and 1TB hdd) and added a 512MB ssd blade(MZ-JPV5120/0A4) and 1TB ssd(Samsung).

The blade is doing read 1800MB/s and write 1400MB/s so I am happy with the upgrade.

BUT when I check the system preference, NVMexpress option tells me that there is no hardware…

(when the fusion drive was installed, it showed properly 5GT/s and 4 Lane…)

Masao Tomogane - Reply

Not sure why the instructions call it adhesive, when it’s double sided tape. Calling it adhesive implies to me that it could be reheated to close things back up.

scottcaldshop - Reply

I’ve read that on High Sierra we can use N-941A adapter and Samsung blade drives in our iMacs 5K 2017

So Samsung M.2 Nvme 960 Evo through N-941A adapter should work.

Some reported nvme is seen on system as external drive and not bootable on beta High Sierra

Have anyone tested and can confirm?

kmosiej - Reply

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