Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.


If your iMac was configured with a solid state drive or Fusion Drive, it includes a blade SSD on the back of the logic board. Use this guide to access and remove the blade SSD.

Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply.

  1. Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.
    • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.

    • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - Reply

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - Reply

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - Reply

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Reply

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

  2. Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.
    • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

    • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

    • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - Reply

    • Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

    Add Comment

    • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

    • Continue along the top of the display.

    • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

    Add Comment

    • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

    Add Comment

    • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

    Add Comment

    • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

    • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

    Add Comment

    • While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

    • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

    • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.

      • Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8" (9.5 mm), or you may damage internal components.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - Reply

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - Reply

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - Reply

    • Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame, and cut any remaining adhesive near the corner.

      • Using too much force will crack the glass. Work carefully, and don't try to create a gap any larger than about 1/4" (6 mm).

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

    • Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

    • Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - Reply

    • Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

    Add Comment

    • Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

    Add Comment

    • Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

    • As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

    Add Comment

    • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

    Add Comment

    • Insert the card back into the top left corner.

    Add Comment

    • Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

    • With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.

    • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.

    • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - Reply

    • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

      • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - Reply

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Reply

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - Reply

    • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    • Disconnect the display data cable.

      • This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - Reply

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - Reply

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - Reply

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - Reply

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Lionheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Reply

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.


    Bryan - Reply

    • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

    • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

    • Remove as much of the adhesive as possible by grabbing it at the outer edges, and then pulling or rolling it towards the middle.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - Reply

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - Reply

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - Reply

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - Reply

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - Reply

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    • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - Reply

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - Reply

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - Reply

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - Reply

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Reply

    • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners.

    • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.

    • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

    • After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place. Follow this guide when your repair is complete to replace the adhesive strips that secure the display to the rear enclosure.

    Add Comment

    • If you are replacing the display panel, you may need to transfer additional components from the old panel to the new one. Compare the back of the old display with the replacement display. Note all cables, sensors, and foam cushioning that are missing from the new display.

      • If there is a wire or cable underneath adhesive tape, always pull the tape off first.

      • If the cable is glued to the chassis, use a heated iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive first. You can then slide an opening pick underneath the cable to loosen it. Never pull directly on the delicate connectors.

      • Slide an opening pick underneath the foam cushion pieces to separate them from the display, and gently pull them off. You may need some double sided tape to re-attach them to the new display.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - Reply

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?




    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - Reply

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!


    simon kennedy - Reply

    • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.

    Add Comment

    • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

    If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

    johann beda - Reply

    • Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket.

    • De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.

    • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

    • Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - Reply

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - Reply

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - Reply

    • Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").

    Add Comment

    • Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

    Add Comment

    • Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

    • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.

      • Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - Reply

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    • Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

    Add Comment

    • Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - Reply

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - Reply

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    lamajr - Reply

    • Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

    • Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.

    • Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - Reply

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - Reply

    • Remove the left hard drive bracket.

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

    • When working on the power supply, be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    • Disconnect the power supply control cable from the power supply.

    I found this cable very difficult to disconnect, be very careful because the cable is between a black tape and it's stuck very hard to the logic board and the cable is very short and you don't have space to move and separate it from the connection! Be patient and take the time you need

    MrSchaeffer - Reply

    I found than putting the flat end of the spudger at the center of the cable, and tilting it got the cable out without an issue.

    jimboom006 - Reply

    I was able to use the flat end of the spudger on the sides. You can see a tiny little clip on each side. Be very gentle!

    Joseph Ashe - Reply

    • Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the rear case (size T8 or T10 depending on the exact model):

      • Two 23.7 mm Torx screws

      • Two 7.3 mm Torx screws

    In the iMac I just bought (2016), these were not T10. I believe they are T9. Can anyone confirm?

    Morgan Crossley - Reply

    Regarding the screws on the power supply board (step 35), I can confirm these are not T10 screws as shown in the guide. In my Late 2015 Retina 5k model, the screws are T8. Morgan mentioned T9 and depending on your T9 driver, it may just barely fit but can easily slip and strip the screw. A T8 driver goes deeper in and holds the screw properly.

    smudge -

    My late 2015 model has these as T8 screws.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

    Late 2015- T8 as well!! Check out this Powerbook Medic teardown video as a cross reference guide!!


    lamajr - Reply

    • Do not attempt to remove the power supply from the case; it is still attached to the logic board by two cables.

    • Move the power supply board towards the left edge of the case and up to free it from the notch in the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Depress the tab on the DC power cable connector, then pull it straight out of its socket on the back of the logic board.

    Remember to push in the disconnect tab on the large connector. Carefully insert your finger and push on the tab before you pull on the connector.

    Manuel Collazo - Reply

    Thank you Manuel, this was a tricky one.

    David Zemsky - Reply

    Yes, I pulled the whole socket out because I didn’t know about the tab. Fortunately I was able to place it back in. Not sure if it was glued or how it was anchored but it seems to have a solid connection and I can’t easily pull it out by hand. Once I plug the power cable back in should be ok.

    P. Hisada - Reply

    This connector was very difficult for me to remove (even after pushing the disconnect tab). Eventually I had to use a pair of needle nose pliers to wiggle it back and forth out of the socket. A lot of the cables on the my late 2015 model were very tight and a struggle to get out.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Reply

    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply. Only handle the board by the edges.

    • Flip the top of the power supply towards you, like opening a mailbox, to reveal the AC inlet cable connector.

    • Disconnect the AC inlet cable connector.

    To reassemble, do the same in reverse but keep power supply board more upright than slanted down when re-inserting it in to the lower right corner. The lower right screw post has an protrusion under/behind it and the Power Supply's small 2 wire plug must fit between the front of your Mac and the obstruction. Then it just slides right in and then screw it down.

    Dan H - Reply

    • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

    Add Comment

    • Gently rock the right speaker slightly to the right, to allow access to its cable's connection on the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Use a spudger to loosen the right speaker cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the connector to the right to remove it from its socket.

    Add Comment

    • Lift the speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

    Add Comment

    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the fan cable's connector from its socket on the logic board.

    Add Comment

    • Peel the black tape connecting the fan to the exhaust duct back slightly.

    • Leave the tape in place on the exhaust duct, you only need to expose the joint to free the fan.

    Add Comment

    • Remove three 12.4 mm T10 screws securing the fan to the rear case.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the fan from the iMac.

    Use a piece of tape around the antenna cables to keep them in the same order, makes reassembly a little easier.

    Walter Hayden - Reply

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect each of the four antenna connectors from the AirPort/Bluetooth card.

    • Note the original positions for each connector when reconnecting the cables. From left to right on the card, the antennas are connected in the following order:

      • Leftmost

      • Top

      • Upper right

      • Lower right

    My iMac has a slightly different assembly. There are 2 - T5 torx screws holding little clamps for each cable (2 clamps per screw). Certainly more secure but another size screw to deal with…

    Greg Freeman - Reply

    My iMac also same with Greg mentioned. need to T5 torx driver. A1419. Late 2015, Korean Version.

    Joseph Yang - Reply

    My 2017 has long WI-Fi card, It’s It’s a M.2, cuz no remove antenna. Undo WI-Fi card fix screws and pull out card. Easy one.

    Tanya Chachanova - Reply

    • This is a delicate connection that can be easily broken.

    • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the iSight camera cable.

    • Pull the camera cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

    During disassembly, I taped the cable up and out of the way, as it tends to get in front of things.

    Tony Ross - Reply

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • Gently push the cable out of the way.

    Add Comment

    • Remove the following screws from the front of the logic board:

      • Two 23.7 mm T10 screws

      • Four 7.4 mm T10 screws

      • One 20.8 mm T25 spacer screw

      • One captive T10 screw

        • This screw is beneath a hole in the logic board. You'll need a fixed screwdriver or the 60 mm extension from an iFixit driver kit to reach it.

    The central screw is very difficult to reach! Use a long and very thin T10 screw driver

    MrSchaeffer - Reply

    On my late 2015 there is another T10 (approx 16 mm long) on the lower edge slightly left of the hole in the logic board giving a total of 4 screws along the bottom edge.

    Konrad Skeri Ekblad - Reply

    I’ve also found an extra T10 in my late 2015 iMac

    luis - Reply

    My 2017 has small flat cable and connector on logic board. And all screws are changed to T 9

    Tanya Chachanova - Reply

    • The hard drive SATA cable can't be removed just yet, but will get in the way of removing the logic board.

    • Pull the cable and connector through the right hard drive bracket. Move the cable to the right side of the iMac, out of the way of the exhaust port.

    Anyone know if models that shipped with only a bladed SSD have the SATA cable still inside? I’m guessing probably not, but haven’t been able to confirm anywhere.

    Jesse Mitchell - Reply

    • Remove two 5.7 mm T10 screws from the top of the heat sink exhaust duct.

    Add Comment

    • Tilt the logic board slightly forward.

    • Lift the logic board straight up and out of the iMac. Be careful not to snag on any of the screw posts attached to the inside of the rear case.

    Add Comment

    • When reassembling your iMac, be very careful to align the exterior I/O ports correctly. The logic board can sit crooked even when secured with all its screws.

    • You can use a USB flashdrive or ethernet cable to ensure the logic board is seated correctly while you screw it in.

    To help me line up the IO ports, I filled all the USB ports on the back with thumb drives before I screwed the Logic board back down. Worked like a charm!

    Alex Grayson - Reply

    • Pull up on the SATA power cable connector to disconnect it.

    • Unplug the SATA data cable connector by lifting it up.

    • Remove the SATA cable from the logic board assembly to get it out of the way and prevent it from being damaged.

    Where is this cable sold

    mert - Reply

    Is this picture correct with 7 pins? Or is it form the 5k version? (See comments on that case below).

    There is an cable on eBay with 5 pins.

    Steve Nilsen - Reply

    This guide was written the year before the 5K model first came out. The cable in the photo is definitely for the model listed, although it’s always possible Apple made more than one variation.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove the single 5.3 mm T8 screw securing the SSD to the logic board.

    What type och screw is this? I just need the measurements, is it a standard M-size screw?

    Peter - Reply

    Where can we buy and SSD like that?

    i found this one on amazon... it is not specified for imac ...


    Création site web http://www.bionique.net

    bioniqueultra - Reply

    I bought the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 5K iMac (late 2015). Worked like a charm without any hiccups; great vendor: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat...

    Shaheen Ghiassy - Reply

    • To avoid damaging its socket, do not lift the end of the SSD excessively.

    • Lift the end of the SSD up slightly and pull it straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • When reinstalling the SSD, be sure it is properly seated before reinstalling its retaining screw.

    this ssd is not for a late 2013!

    this is 2012 year

    cslbox - Reply

    What do you mean? I'm going to buy a ssd to add it in my imac 27 late 2013 the came without it.

    Which part I need?

    MrSchaeffer -

    I think what he meant to say is the SSD shown (Samsun) is for a late 2013. The 2014 iMac uses a Sandisk unit (see the 5k teardown).

    Ifixit have made the mistake of referencing the late 2013 iMac teardown photos here.

    Brent -

    Actually the picture show the late 2012 pcie connector. (8+18 pins)



    After late 2013, (21.5", 27" and 27" 5K) the connector has changed. (12+16 pins)



    (You can see the actual one here : iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Teardown)


    After late 2013, you can only place a MacBook Pro late 2013 and after ssd !!

    Cecil His Mahier -

    which ssd used in this tutorial ?

    where can I buy ?


    AlexFull - Reply

    I Use a little bit of glue to fix the ssd pcie to the logic board

    MrSchaeffer - Reply

    Which SSD is used in this tutorial?

    Lok - Reply

    Thanks Cecil His Mahier

    hope you are right

    i bought this type http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...

    to put it in iMac 27 late 2015

    hope it will work

    Fanny Augier - Reply

    Just wondering if the SSD worked with your Imac

    "i bought this type http://www.macbidouille.com/news/2013/06...

    Jack Watkins -

    yes this is the good one

    but now i plugged the ssd

    the imac don't want to start, power supply is ok ( i tested it ), but the LEDs of the logic board are all OFF

    can someone help me ? is my logic board dead or there is special move to do when you plug something ?

    Fanny Augier -

    For people knowledge :

    i have iMac 5k late 2015

    i put exactly this SSD on it :




    ( i bought it on market like eBay )

    Fanny Augier -

    i got iMac 5k late 2015

    i confirm the SSD you can see here is working : iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Teardown

    i buy it on eBay

    Fanny Augier -

    I purchased the 1TB PCIe SSD for my 2015 5K iMac from here: https://beetstech.com/product/solid-stat.... Worked like a charm on High Sierra with zero hiccups. Great vendor!

    (P.S: I’m not associated with the company in any way)

    Shaheen Ghiassy - Reply


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our adhesive strip replacement guide to reattach the display glass.

114 other people completed this guide.

Sam Lionheart

Member since: 10/18/2012

345,442 Reputation

535 Guides authored


iFixit Member of iFixit


113 Members

7,323 Guides authored


Does it mean that I can install Mavericks to the new hard drive rather than Yosemite for imac retina new model. I really dont like Yosemite.

ulas sunar - Reply


So i have maxed out version of 2014 iMac 5k with 3TB fusion drive. I am looking to replace above described SSD with crucial 920 gb ssd. Is there other brands of compatible ssd's you would recommend? Will this new ssd still act as fusion drive or can I install OS X separately on it?


romanvm - Reply

If I want to swap the fusion drive with a SSD, do I need to remove the SSD-part of the fusion drive as well or can it be left behind?

mhjvdven - Reply

Does anybody know if 5K Retina iMacs purchased *without* Fusion Drives come with SSD connectors inside?

loccie - Reply

Answering my own question: YES

loccie -

What type of the SSD is used for the imac 5K.

nuieskater - Reply

check my post. I only found used in ebay, and I am not sure about the amperage.

I also not mentioned that there are some 1tb that are larger than the smallers gb. But that seems be ok

Alber Einsten -

I just bought the late 2015 27 5k imac (fusion drive 1tb) and I intent to upgrade everything on it

since in the teardown we see this is the same ssd that was in the macbook pro retina 13" late 2013, and until 2015 macbook pro did not changed the ssd type... I looked for it on ebay, a lot of seller sell those apple used SSDs from some sellers include a Compatible list:

Mac Pro Late 2013 and newer

iMac Late 2013-

Mac mini 2014

Macbook Pro Late 2013-

MacBook Air 13 and 11" 2013-

size, pins, and voltage are always the same, but there is some variations in the Ampere spech. I tried find something about but I couldn't discovery if it will be relevant.

There are 2 and 4 lanes versions (4 is faster)

also there are samsung and sandisk options (any doubt abou the better?)

I ignored the amperage diference and bought one that is 2,5A (samsung MZ-JPU256T/0A6). the late 2015 came with a no specified manufacturer and no specs on it. I did right or a mistake?

Alber Einsten - Reply

Hello ....did you test it ? Works Ok on iMac 5K - Late 2015 - 17.1 ? Thank you !!!

ysaine -

I want to do the same thing, did this work for you?

michael -

Vey sorry for so late answer , I didn't saw this at the time. I was revising today the process and saw the question. It worked perfectly for me. You have of plenty options when installing the blade SSD, the better is also put a regular Sata SSD and have 2 SSDs. I also changed the i5 for a i7. It is a long time work but is not that hard, once you are opening the iMac worth change the processor. The used by apple in their upgrade option was the: i7 6700K 4.00 GHz Unlocked Quad Core Skylake Desktop Processor, Socket LGA 1151

Alber Einsten -

Hi, does it still work as a “fusion drive” or two separated drives?


SimonG80 -

Hi there. I’m planning to replace the blade ssd on my iMac 27” late 2015. May I know which SSD you’re using for purchase reference?

Thanks a lot.

Che FU Lin -

I replaced the HDD with a Samsung 850 Pro (late 2015 iMac). Removing the "fusion drive" was not necessary -- if you install OS X from scratch, you can configure the two drives to work in parallel.

Aleksi Asikainen - Reply

Thanks for answer my question, before ask :)

mralexanderclark75 -

Can i just replace only the moving hard drive and leave the solid state the mac came with, that would make the world easy.

maessttrro - Reply

can i buy brand new 2016 imac 5k 27" 3.2GHz Processor

1TB Storage (without fusion drive) and do this upgrade after???

mrmoraesgil - Reply

So - it's about an inch above the ports on the back - anybody want to try using a dremel to make the %#*@ door that should have been there in the first place? :)

szeglowski - Reply

I have a quick question, on the owc site they show you don't have to take the logic board out. You can actually replace the stock 7200 HD with a new bracket and a SSD, attach a heat sensor, plugin, and put screen back on.

Is that also a correct way to upgrade the system? I have a MK462/A1419 system that I want to replace the HD and add and SSD to the system. As a 2nd choice, am I able to add a SSD to the logic board that will now act as a fusion drive with the original HD in place? Thanks for all your help.

Anthony - Reply

I have a 2015 27'' retina with 256GB SSD and I want to put a 1 or 2TB SSD in. Do I need to do the full tear down, or can I just put it in place of where the HDD is in this demo?

intoximacated - Reply

To add an OMC 2TB SSD where the original HDD went requires changing out the cable, about a $30 part, but one that requires removing the main logic board. While there stuff in as big of a blade SSD as possible.

westwind -

Is it posible to use HDD and SSD without "fusion drive" functional? I have imac 5k with HDD only. But i want to add ssd as second drive. Thank you

Aleksey Kazakov - Reply


Is possible to add an SSD pci to iMac 5K 27" LATE 2015, which came without fusion drive?

I will have this connection on the motherboard?


Eugeniu Tambur - Reply

Same question?

michael -

Hello everyone, i want to know one thing about Imac 27" 5k table stand is openable or not....?

pabitra - Reply

I heard it's not. You have to choose the vesa mount option when you purchase.

dkhyun -

I have the iMac 27 5K late 2015 with 1TB Fusion drive. The SSD drive is 24GB and the hard drive is 1TB 7200rpm. Can the hard drive be change to a Samsung 1TB SSD drive or not? I have not seen anyone commenting on this. Everyone seems to want to upgrade the SSD drive instead. I think the hard drive would be the easiest thing to do. Someone please help. Thanks

Rolo Carba - Reply

I own a Late 2015 27” iMac 3.2 GHz Quad-core Intel Core i5 with Retina 5K display and 1 TB HDD. I find it slow and want to install a Fusion Drive.

Question: Is the internal SSD in the 2013 and later MacBook series, specifically, the Late 2013 15" MacBook Pro exactly the same as the blade style SSD in the Late 2015 iMac?

MacBook Pro Replacement Drives:


I ask because I would like to take the 500 GB blade style SSD out of my late 2013 15" MacBook Pro and use it in the 27" iMac. I will also replace the current 1 TB HDD in the iMac with this 6TB drive:

https://eshop.macsales.com/item/Toshiba/... Then I can configure both drives as big ass Fusion drive.

FYI: I plan to replace the current MacBook Pro drive with a 1 TB SSD:


michael - Reply

Hi guys, I'm Rik from Florence. Today I went to a apple reseller because my imac 5k 27 has only one 250gb ssd, without any other disk. They told me that my imac is not upgradable because inside there aren't any cable for an other disk. I asked if was possible to remove my ssd with other bigger but they said that maybe the ssd inside the imac is settled. Any other official upgrade on my imac is forbidden and will cause the warranty end. I think it's a shame. I paid more than 3000€ for an not upgradable computer??? ps. sorry for my poor english

ilminia - Reply

Okay, so the late 2015 (October) 1TB Fusion has a 24gb SSD and a 1TB HDD in combination - My understanding is that the earlier 1TB Fusion Drives were 128GB SSD + 1TB HDD - and were mounted separately. What I am not sure of is whether the tiny 24gb is mounted on the logic board like the larger ones, or mounted inside the larger disc like some of the Seagate SSHD hybrid drives. That is my first question.

As to the question of whether the sockets for SSD are still in place to add a SSD to the iMac units that only come with the larger HDD, I think that was answered yes above. Now about the iMacs that come with only small SSDs (256 or 512) is there an unused SATA connector on the logic board where you could add a SATA cable and install another disc (SSH or HDD)? I do know there are cables available if the socket is there.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a late 2015 unit and wonder whether I want to get one with the 1TB HDD and add two big SSDs or just pay the extra $500 to get the model with the 2TB Fusion?

Uncle Reggie - Reply

Hi Guys and SSD Experts .... :-)

I needa a hint from your end ... because I'm a little bit confused because most descriptions that I found are showing how to replace the internal HDD against a SSD.

I purchased a iMac 5k 27, with internal 256 SSD. from the Apple Store in 2015.

So it's a pure SSD Model (no Fusion Drive).

Now I would like to upgrade the 256 SSD with a larger 1 TB SSD.

My thought was that the iMac 5k SSD Version runs a normal 2,5 " SSD.

Is it possible to buy a normal 2,5 " SSD with 1 TB and to insert it at that place where normally the Fusion Drive is located?

Do I need any specific set of cables, etc because of an thermal sensor?

I prefer to runt he iMac with an larger internal SSD. So an external Thunderbolt SSD isn't my preferred option.

Thanks for any comments, support.

G. M. - Reply

You have a 2.5" SSD and not a blade SSD? If your iMac has a 2.5" SSD, just remove the screen, remove the left speaker for access to the left hard drive bracket, unscrew and remove the left hard drive bracket, unplug and remove the SSD and install the new one.

If however your iMac came with a blade SSD only, you can install a 3.5" HDD or 2.5" SSD, but you need a mount to fit the 2.5" SSD in the 3.5" HDD bracket, if there's even a bracket there at all. If not, find a creative way to keep in it place I guess...

You also need a specific SATA cable (see guide I linked below). Use it as a reference to see where the HDD/SSD is mounted and where the SATA cable needs to plug in (it's not a normal SATA cable). I was able to connect the it without removing the logic board, but it's not easy as the logic board is installed backside up. It needs to connect to both its on-board power connector and the on-board SATA slot:

iMac Intel 27" EMC 2546 SATA Cable Replacement

mikai -

Another note: thermal sensor is not required for SSDs on systems using OS X El Capitan/Sierra. I installed an SSD without one. No fan throttling at all.

mikai -

imac 27" 5k ssd (sm0256g) replacement---My computer has Apple sm0256g ssd... Can I use Samsung 960 Evo M.2 500gb Sata3 Pcıe 3200/1800 Ssd Mz-V6e500bw instead? please help me.

mert - Reply

No, unfortunately. The proprietary Apple SSD has a unique slot configuration. It just simply won't fit. I've replaced the SSD of my iMac 27 5k and had to buy the SM0512G.

See the pictures below and look at the end of each. They are different.

960 EVO:




mikai -

Hi Mikai, where did you buy your SM0512G? Thank you!

Ernest -

OWD has SSDs that would fit, for example: https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/SSDA...

Huub Everstijn - Reply

@mikai thanks for advice. I can confirm satisfied. No special and expensive thermal sensor cable needed on my iMac 2015 Retina! I replaced HDD with a Samsung SSD under OS X El Capitan.

mappo - Reply

Okay. External SSD thunderbolt drive only for me.

Jim Hassinger - Reply

Hi there,

I would like to add a 256 GB PCIe SSD on my iMac 27 5k late 2015 which only has 1TB HDD. I read that it has the PCIe interface to install a blade SSD but I cannot find any on the Internet. Can someone please suggest me possible sellers (especially in Europe)?

Thanks in advance

Francesco - Reply

iMac 27 5k late 2015:

Forgive me if this was asked already — but if I want to switch from a 24gig ssd / 1tb hdd fusion configuration to a strictly ssd config, which PCIe SSD can I use? I wrote OWC to see if I can use any of their PCIe blades, but they wrote back that they don’t make one that works for this model — but now that I’m doing a little more digging it looks like I’m finding old eBay listings for the SM0512G that point to it being used in the Macbook Air line.

Anyone have luck with an OWC PCIe blade as their main drive? Any lucky with a Macbook Air SSD?

If I’m going to upgrade to a SSD, I want it to use the fastest connection possible so the 2.5 drive isn’t optimal.

Any help appreciated, have a great day.


Matt - Reply

I remove the fusion drive(24GB ssd blade and 1TB hdd) and added a 512MB ssd blade(MZ-JPV5120/0A4) and 1TB ssd(Samsung).

The blade is doing read 1800MB/s and write 1400MB/s so I am happy with the upgrade.

BUT when I check the system preference, NVMexpress option tells me that there is no hardware…

(when the fusion drive was installed, it showed properly 5GT/s and 4 Lane…)

Masao Tomogane - Reply

Can you tell me how to remove the 24GB ssd blade and install the fusion drive ?thank you very much.


Blank -

Can you tell me how to remove the 24GB ssd blade and how to install the fusion drive?Thank you very much.


Blank -

Not sure why the instructions call it adhesive, when it’s double sided tape. Calling it adhesive implies to me that it could be reheated to close things back up.

scottcaldshop - Reply

I’ve read that on High Sierra we can use N-941A adapter and Samsung blade drives in our iMacs 5K 2017

So Samsung M.2 Nvme 960 Evo through N-941A adapter should work.

Some reported nvme is seen on system as external drive and not bootable on beta High Sierra

Have anyone tested and can confirm?

kmosiej - Reply

All boot options must share the Main Drive format., My MacBook P booted of my SSD ext,

iMac stopped booting from same SSD at the last moment

During update the SSD was reformatted with the new APFS the fusion remained HFS

Bomb_The_Vatican -

Hi I have a Imac 27” 2015, 3.2Hz, with 1 tb 7200rpm drive. When I want to replace the 7200rpm spinning drive to SSD. Is there another ssd inside the Imac I need to look for also? I just want to replace the 7200rpm with the samsung evo 850. Do I need to replace any other hardrive inside the Imac?

Dave W - Reply

Depending on how your iMac was configured when you bought it, you may have both an SSD (shown in the guide you’re viewing now) and a standard spinny drive. If you’re looking to replace the spinny drive, the guide you want is this one.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi guys im thinking of upgrading my ssd blade . Ive been looking about and noticed the do a m.2 convertor Would this be possible to do and just buy a m.2 ssd ?. If not im looking into leaving that there and upgrading the hdd to Evo 850 ssd , Do i need the sensor kit , and i do need to un-pair the Fusion Drive. Thank you Guys

master.mark - Reply

For all: when swapping out either the blade or the HDD from a Fusion setup, you have to do a full backup to an external drive. Removing a drive will BREAK the Fusion drive like removing a drive in a RAID array.

After you upgrade, you have to re-create a fusion drive of the Blade and the spinner HDD. Google “do it yourself fusion drive” or search macsales.com (blog). After you build the new fusion drive, you can restore your backup to it (easy with CarbonCopyCloner, SuperDuper, etc.) You can even make a fusion of two SSDs.

Eriamjh 1138 - Reply

First of all, thank you so much Sam for posting this guide. It was super useful to me. My late 2015 iMac was running very slow and I decided to upgrade it with both a 1Tb SSD and a 128Gb flash drive (from a 2017 iMac). I followed your tutorial and everything is working well so far, after installing High Sierra in the flash unit.

There is only one thing that I’m a bit worried about. When running the Black magic test, read speeds are around 2500Mb/s while write speeds stay much lower, at 750Mb/s.

Is that normal?

Thanks again


luis - Reply

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