Introduction

Use this guide to replace your inverter/AirPort cables.

Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.
  • Use a coin to rotate the battery locking screw 90 degrees clockwise.

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Lift the battery out of the computer.
  • Lift the battery out of the computer.

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Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.
  • Pull the keyboard release tabs toward you and lift up on the keyboard until it pops free.

  • If the keyboard does not come free, use a small flathead screwdriver to turn the keyboard locking screw 180 degrees in either direction and try again.

  • Flip the keyboard over, away from the screen, and rest it face-down on the trackpad area.

The "keyboard locking screw" is a transparent plastic screw located between F5 and F6 function keys.

Nienpo - Reply

If the computer has an AirPort card installed, follow the next three steps to remove it.
  • If the computer has an AirPort card installed, follow the next three steps to remove it.

  • Push the wire clasp away from the AirPort card and toward the display, then rotate up to free it from the RAM shield.

To put back the AirPort card with the clasp (wire brace), make sure the card is pushed against by the wire, not clamped over. The latter situation indicates that the card is not seated deeply enough.

Nienpo - Reply

Grasp the clear plastic tab on the AirPort card and pull toward the display.
  • Grasp the clear plastic tab on the AirPort card and pull toward the display.

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Hold the AirPort card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.
  • Hold the AirPort card in one hand and use your other hand to remove the antenna cable.

I had a hard time getting the Airport card seated properly when reconstructing. If the wire brace doesn't snap back in easily, then try reseating the card. Don't force it.

vorski - Reply

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS TUTORIAL!

Honestly, this is a lot easier than it looks. The key is take your time and don't force anything. Use tweezers to disconnect cables from logic board. Also, use a mini-head screwdriver like for glasses to pry the case open and go slowly.

headphonz - Reply

Very well explained. Thank you. I had some donated memory cards and had to try twice before success. I found that I did not have to remove the antenna from the airport express and I did not have to remove the keyboard plug from the processor. Enough room to remove and replace memory card with it in.

Jay Speaks - Reply

Remove the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.
  • Remove the four silver Phillips screws that secure the RAM shield.

very gently magnetizing my small philips screwdriver was a HUGE help when putting all the tiny screws back into place... all said and done, there will be a lot of teeny screws to be taken out and put back. To magnetize the screwdriver, I just rubbed it several times in one direction (similar to sharpening a knife) across a strong refrigerator magnet... you only want it just strong enough to hold a screw, but not so magnetized that it corrupts your new hard drive!

Sean Franzen - Reply

Grasp the metal bracket on top of the RAM shield and pull upward to remove the shield.
  • Grasp the metal bracket on top of the RAM shield and pull upward to remove the shield.

When replacing the RAM shield, make sure to pull the antenna cable through the tiny slot in the upper right, or else you'll have to unscrew it all over again.

demifugue - Reply

Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.
  • Pull the keyboard cable up from the logic board, holding the cable as close to the connector as possible.

  • Make sure that you reconnect the keyboard cable before replacing the RAM shield.

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Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.
  • Use a pin (or anything you like) to remove the three rubber feet from the lower case.

Be careful that the feet don't shoot up and hit you in the eye when you pry them out!

UniAce - Reply

Each rubber foot has three large tabs occupying 3, 7, and 11 o'clock positions, while a small tab at 9 o'clock position. When you place those rubber feet back to the ring housings, make sure their small tabs aligning with the opening gaps around the rings.

Nienpo - Reply

Taking the feet off - I found a thin flathead screwdriver was much better than a pin to lever them off. Also doesn't mark the rubber. Not hard though

tangawk - Reply

Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.
  • Remove the three newly-revealed Phillips screws.

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Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.
  • Use a spudger or small flathead screwdriver to pry up the three metal rings that housed the rubber bumpers.

Align the ring so that it sits flush before trying to put the screws back in. A small tab in the case needs to align with the ring correctly.

jaeckerb - Reply

Yes, the rings have to be put back and flushed with the lower case surface. Otherwise, the rubber feet will not stand evenly.

Nienpo - Reply

Remove the three Torx screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.
  • Remove the three Torx screws using a T8 Torx screwdriver.

  • The shorter screw is in the center of the computer.

I was able to use a hex wrench since I didn't have a #8 Torx screwdriver.

jackshim - Reply

Quote from jackshim:

I was able to use a hex wrench since I didn't have a #8 Torx screwdriver.

I, however, was not.

rbrtrx - Reply

These 3 screws actually use 2mm Allen (hex) heads, so try to find one of those first (they come in many metric Allen sets) before resorting to the T8 Torx.

Bryan - Reply

If you save your IKEA wrenches from their steel cable "curtain rods," you will have a 2mm hex wrench or two to spare; the 2mm wrenches are used to tighten the pair of set-screws holding each end of the cable into the wall-mounting.

The three sets of metric allen wrenches I'd accumulated over the years did NOT contain that itty-bitty 2mm wrench, and I didn't want to try forcing a torx-fit.

However, when I finally thought to check, I DID have a 2mm hex "screwdriver tip" in a large "universal set" of odd magnetic screwdriver tips--one with things like hollow-pointed torx, hollow-pointed hex, pin tips (imagine a flat-bladed tip with the middle 1/3 removed)--those so-called "tamper-resistant" screw heads (no triangle points, though, for all the kids' toys made in China).

And why hadn't I thought to look in the screw driver set first thing? Because the hex 2mm was a WRENCH, not a screw with a hexagonal driver tip. Talk about limits imposed by "context" or "framing"--and age.

Theron Ninth -

Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws on either side of the battery contacts.

If I am not mistaken, these two screws have slightly heavier heads than all the others, in case this is helpful info for when you reassemble.

akatodd - Reply

Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.
  • Breathe deeply. Trying times are ahead, but we promise the lower case does come off.

  • Push the thin rims of the lower case surrounding the battery compartment in, bending them past the tabs, and then lift up to free that corner of the lower case.

I need patience and I need it NOW!!!!

chrisbulle - Reply

They aren't joking about these being trying times. Steps 15-20 are tough, especially if you don't have a spudger. A small flathead screwdriver works, but will scratch/nick your case.

vorski - Reply

I killed my spudger on this step, trying to twist it in the seam to lift the cover up. I got better progress using it to pry out the gey band, surrounding the laptop. That action will release the catch grooves. Still a test of patience...good luck.

karenskirka - Reply

There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.
  • There is a slot on the wall of the battery compartment that locks the lower case in place. Use a small flathead screwdriver to pry out the slot's lower rim and pull up on the lower case to free the slot from the tabs holding it.

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Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.
  • Run a spudger along the seam between the lower case and upper case on the front of the computer to free the tabs locking the lower case. Pull up on the lower case and continue to use the spudger as necessary until you hear three distinct clicks.

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Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.
  • Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner. There are two tabs on the port side of the computer, one near the front corner and one near the sound-out port.

I used a flathead screwdriver and an old credit card instead of a spudger. If using the screwdriver, be advised it may damage the case.

tildeksnyder - Reply

Wish I'd read the tip about the credit card! Made a few dents during this procedure as I didn't have a spudger. N.B. Plastic modeling tools are not suitable for this job!

enginemonkey - Reply

"Continue to run the spudger around the front, right corner." This is nearly impossible for me. Instead, I use a small flathead screw driver to gently open up the tab at the corner.

Nienpo - Reply

There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.
  • There are three tabs over the optical drive that must be released before the lower case can come off. Slide the spudger into the lower case above the optical drive and run it toward the back of the computer until you hear three distinct clicks.

Press inwards between the case and the plastic around the drive. It'll flex the plastic around the drive in and away from the bottom case. The first is about an inch from the center of the slot, then centered on the slot and about one inch past the center.

jaeckerb - Reply

Be careful here; I scratched up my case here pretty good with the flat head screwdriver I'd used.

ejwest24 - Reply

Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and away from you until the back tabs pop free.
  • Once the front and sides of the lower case are free, turn the computer so that the back is facing you and pull the lower case up and away from you until the back tabs pop free.

  • it may be helpful to jiggle the case up and down.

Step 20.5: Have coffee and give yourself a pat on the back...

dennis peeters - Reply

Take care that the monitor cable is tucked in when putting the bottom case back on.

jaeckerb - Reply

Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.
  • Remove the small greasy springs with white plastic caps from either side of the battery contacts.

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Remove the 4 Phillips screws from the bottom shield.
  • Remove the 4 Phillips screws from the bottom shield.

  • The two longer screws are along the computer's edge, near the ports.

I leave the bottom shield. It was not necessary for me to get it of to dismount the upper top.

Everling - Reply

on mine, there are six small extra screws to remove.

dianadipilla - Reply

Lift the bottom shield off.
  • Lift the bottom shield off.

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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the DC-In board.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the DC-In board.

I left the DC board alone screws, cable and all for my hard drive swap.

jyee - Reply

No reason for this step or the next few when replacing the hard drive. Leave the DC board and its cable alone!

jaeckerb - Reply

When re-assembling, make sure the right screw goes in the right-most hole.

beeay - Reply

Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.
  • Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board.

I found that I could leave the cable attached if I was just careful with where I placed it when I turned the computer over.

horntaxnow - Reply

Deroute the cable from around the optical drive, removing tape as necessary, and angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.
  • Deroute the cable from around the optical drive, removing tape as necessary, and angle the DC-In board out of its compartment.

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Remove the two Phillips screws from the battery compartment.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws from the battery compartment.

Very helpful!

Gosimiera - Reply

We recommend placing the computer on a slab of grey anti-static packing foam from this point on to prevent damaging the logic board.
  • We recommend placing the computer on a slab of grey anti-static packing foam from this point on to prevent damaging the logic board.

  • Turn over the computer and open it.

  • Pry up the magnet covering a Phillips screw near the middle of the computer.

Probably a good idea to follow the advice about protecting the logic board with foam. I used bubble wrap on this step, but it probably didn't provide enough padding. When I reassembled everything and booted up (successfully!) the screen had a strong bluish tint. Can't seem to get rid of it now. Oops.

Otherwise, many thanks to ifixit and all y'alls for the helpful comments.

Tristan Naramore - Reply

Remove the following 7 screws from the edges of the keyboard area.
  • Remove the following 7 screws from the edges of the keyboard area.

    • Three 2 mm Phillips along the right edge.

    • One 4.5 mm Phillips underneath where the magnet was.

    • One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner.

    • Two 6 mm Phillips with large heads, one in the upper left corner and one in the middle

My journey of replacing the hard drive stops at step 29. The screw marked with the yellow circle ("One 6 mm Phillips with a small head in the lower left corner") is very tight. The torque I applied wore out the screw head and it becomes the death sentence announcement of the iBook. Sad.

Nienpo - Reply

I am happy to announce that my iBook gets its 2nd life with the newly implanted hard drive. The screw marked with the yellow circle was worn out. I ordered a set of "Screw Extracting Pliers" (small) from iFixit in the hope of remedying the problem. Initially, the pliers do not have enough space to work on it because the screw sits in a narrow plastic basin. I file some of the surrounding plastic away to make room. Finally, the pliers "bites" the screw out. Yes!

The screw is put back when the iBook is assembled.

Nienpo - Reply

Before you can yank the upper case off, you must disconnect the trackpad connector, the blue and white power cable, and speaker cable as described in the next steps.
  • Before you can yank the upper case off, you must disconnect the trackpad connector, the blue and white power cable, and speaker cable as described in the next steps.

  • Lift the upper case from the right side and use a spudger or your finger to disconnect the trackpad connector hidden beneath the white plastic tab. Due to model variatons your trackpad connector may be different from the one pictured.

When replacing the upper case, after you've installed your new hard drive, make sure you remember to RECONNECT the trackpad connector. I forgot to connect it when I put the computer back together, and had to take it apart a 2nd time in order to fix my mistake. Other than that I had no problems with this upgrade thanks to the detailed instructions offered here . Thanks iFixit.com!

You can see photos of my upgrade process here if you are interested: http://www.flickr.com/photos/judahs/sets...

judah - Reply

Ty iFitit..I replaced the screen on my iBook g4...you guys rock..went without a hitch...hat sitting there for month with a hanging screen...feels good to be mobile again.... THANK YOU....

jeremiah - Reply

Carefully lift the upper case about half of an inch and move it so that you can access the power and speaker cables.
  • Carefully lift the upper case about half of an inch and move it so that you can access the power and speaker cables.

  • If the upper case is sticking, it may be necessary to free the tabs holding the upper case to the metal framework along the outer edge of the battery compartment.

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The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.
  • The connectors at the ends of the cables are attached very firmly to the sockets on the logic board. Pulling directly on the cable will either separate the cable from its connector or the socket from the logic board.

  • Lift the upper case enough to disconnect the blue and white power cable from the logic board. Using your fingernails or a dental pick, carefully pry the connector from its socket. Make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

just pulled up the socket accidentally. #&^&

chickenbrothel - Reply

Quote from chickenbrothel:

just pulled up the socket accidentally. #&^&

It helps to use two small tools here: A dental pick (or similar) to hold down the socket (keeps it from separating from the logic board) and a small flathead screwdriver. With your off hand, use the pick to make sure the socket stays put; with your good hand, use the screwdriver. DON'T pry; instead, TWIST the head of the screwdriver to gently coax the connector out of the socket.

textrix - Reply

Tweezers were also helpful here.

jackshim - Reply

I left the power button cable as it is VERY easy to break. I instead left it plugged in, and flipped the upper case and metal shield up against the screen. Worked well.

hwn - Reply

I've just done the same thing DRAT ! Is there any way to solder the tiny socket back on to the board ?

steweric - Reply

First I released the plastic top. Then I removed the touch pad connector. With that, I was able to shift the top case down a inch so the power connector was exposed. I pressed a small screw driver along the middle on the long side of the power connector and twisted back and forth so it would wedge the connector from the socket. I left the speaker(long wires) wires connected and just flipped the case off to the left.

jyee - Reply

You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.

QEII Student IT - Reply

Wished I had read the comment BEFORE trying to pull that stupid connector out. Here is my take away: If you have an iBook 1.33 - DON'T TRY TO REMOVE THE CONNECTOR! It's impossible not to break the socket off the logic board. The connector is so firmly in the socket that you can't pull it out.

If you broke it, there is the possibility to solder it, but it's very tricky. But maybe the only chance of saving your machine. Do some google search, there are people who've done it.

uliverse - Reply

Quote from jackshim:

Tweezers were also helpful here.

I used forceps. Quick and easy.

Desert Fox - Reply

I also pulled the power connector from the board and had to send the board to a repair shop to have the connector soldered back on. Working on tiny surface mount components is not for the faint of heart. Sierra Circuit Repair of Chico CA did a good job but it cost me $100.

gdavids57 - Reply

Quote from QEII Student IT:

You don't have to remove the power button connector to remove most parts! It's really dodgy and can break your logic board. When you peel up the glue on the wire for the microphone connector, lean the upper case on the display.

Thank you very much!! Great tip, worked great,it cuts down the risk of logic board repair. I agree with the suggestion of tweezers, long thin tips help to maneuver in tight areas and are great for removing the tape holding the wires to the plastic upper case.

Oz Leap - Reply

I cloned the original drive onto a larger one, and started following these instructions.

Alas, I just "bricked" my machine as well at this step... the jack broke off the board.

Well, it served admirably for the last few years....

Painful but not critical lesson...

dannyb - Reply

Don't forget put off the mouse pad cable

Francisco - Reply

I concur, you dont have to remove the power button connector.

Great guide...just installed a new ssd.

Make sure you follow the OS X Installation Guide on how to partition etc...

Banu - Reply

Lift the upper case off completely and disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.
  • Lift the upper case off completely and disconnect the multicolored speaker cable from the logic board. As before, make sure you're pulling only on the connector and not on the socket.

  • Tip: the multi-coloured cable may be easier and less daunting to disconnect after removing the top heat shield. Prop the top case upright while removing the shield - the connector is then much more accessible.

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Remove the following 15 screws:
  • Remove the following 15 screws:

    • Fourteen 3 mm Phillips.

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips in the upper left corner.

    • Mind the magnet position in the lower right corner

This is very confusing. Next time I'm going to mark the spots where the little screws go with red sharpie.

chrisbulle - Reply

On my machine, the 5.5 mm Phillips in the upper left corner had a larger-diameter head than the other screws, in case this is helpful info for when you reassemble.

akatodd - Reply

screws to my left in front of pc

eric robertson - Reply

Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.
  • Lift the top shield up from the right side, minding the upper left corner, which may catch on the metal framework.

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Due to variations between iBook G4 models, your modem may look slightly different from the picture. All of the following steps apply to either model.
  • Due to variations between iBook G4 models, your modem may look slightly different from the picture. All of the following steps apply to either model.

  • Remove the two Phillips screws at the corners of the modem.

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Lift the modem and modem shield from the bottom.
  • Lift the modem and modem shield from the bottom.

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Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the top of the modem.
  • Disconnect the RJ-11 cable from the top of the modem.

  • When replacing the modem, seat the shield first, and then connect the modem and press it firmly into the shield, making sure that it is connected to the logic board.

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Turn the computer over.
  • Turn the computer over.

  • Disconnect the inverter cable from the logic board and deroute it from the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

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Turn the computer back over.
  • Turn the computer back over.

  • The cable you're about to remove is very fragile - do not pull directly on the wires. Instead, try to pry up the connector directly, using a spudger or a small flathead screwdriver if necessary.

  • Disconnect the microphone cable at the front of the computer, between the left side of the hard drive and the metal framework, removing tape as necessary.

How much does it affect the computer if you accidentally pull out the whole thing?

DarkObsession - Reply

Use the black plastic handle to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.
  • Use the black plastic handle to disconnect the display data cable from the logic board.

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Peel up the yellow tape holding the display data cable to the metal framework and remove the single Phillips screw beneath it.
  • Peel up the yellow tape holding the display data cable to the metal framework and remove the single Phillips screw beneath it.

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Support the display with one hand and remove the single Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).
  • Support the display with one hand and remove the single Phillips screw on either side of the hinge (two screws total).

  • The screws go in the outer holes on each side (you can see the threads in the correct hole).

  • It may be necessary to unscrew one side of the optical drive for enough clearance to thread the AirPort antenna through the gap between the body of the optical drive and the iBook's internal frame.

  • When remounting, mind that cables pass under the hinge, not over

Note the wifi cable, it goes under the optical drive then comes back up next to it. You have to unscrew the back left for the wifi plug to fit through the crack.

tommalschaert - Reply

Tilt the display back, freeing it from the two metal alignment posts holding the hinges in place, and slide it away from you.
  • Tilt the display back, freeing it from the two metal alignment posts holding the hinges in place, and slide it away from you.

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Use a 1.5mm hex screwdriver to remove the two hex screws on either side of the display (four screws total).
  • Use a 1.5mm hex screwdriver to remove the two hex screws on either side of the display (four screws total).

  • If you don't have a 1.5mm hex driver, you can probably get these screws out with a T6 Torx screwdriver. However, if you use a T6 Torx driver you'll be more likely to strip the screws.

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Use your thumbs to slightly separate the rear bezel from the front bezel.
  • Use your thumbs to slightly separate the rear bezel from the front bezel.

  • It is helpful to hold the opposing corner of the display stationary to aid in flexing the rear bezel away from the display.

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Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the front and rear bezels. Rotate your spudger until it is parallel to the front face of the display. Run the spudger around the perimeter of the display to separate the rear bezel from its retaining clips.
  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the front and rear bezels.

  • Rotate your spudger until it is parallel to the front face of the display.

  • Run the spudger around the perimeter of the display to separate the rear bezel from its retaining clips.

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Lift the rear bezel off the display.
  • Lift the rear bezel off the display.

Here is your chance to clean the edges! Lots of gunk accumulates here.

tommalschaert - Reply

Remove the large piece of tape near the lower right corner of the display.
  • Remove the large piece of tape near the lower right corner of the display.

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Remove the single screw inserted through the piece of EMI tape near the bottom edge of the display (it's the first of the two clutch cover screws). Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small washer under the screw you just removed.
  • Remove the single screw inserted through the piece of EMI tape near the bottom edge of the display (it's the first of the two clutch cover screws).

  • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small washer under the screw you just removed.

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Peel the aluminum/EMI tape as one piece off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.
  • Peel the aluminum/EMI tape as one piece off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

  • It is not necessary to peel the tape off the thin steel LCD cover.

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Remove the pieces of readily removable tape from around the perimeter of the display.
  • Remove the pieces of readily removable tape from around the perimeter of the display.

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Remove the piece of aluminum tape near the center of the LCD cover. Peel back the piece of tape securing the display data cable ground loop to the thin steel LCD cover.
  • Remove the piece of aluminum tape near the center of the LCD cover.

  • Peel back the piece of tape securing the display data cable ground loop to the thin steel LCD cover.

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Remove the two Phillips screws securing each side of the LCD to the clutch hinge frame (four screws total). Remove the two Phillips screws securing each side of the LCD to the clutch hinge frame (four screws total).
  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing each side of the LCD to the clutch hinge frame (four screws total).

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Lift the thin steel LCD cover off the LCD.
  • Lift the thin steel LCD cover off the LCD.

All the RF shields are aluminum, and the frame is cast magnesium, fwiw.

Theron Ninth - Reply

Remove the second of the two Phillips screws securing the clutch cover to the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.
  • Remove the second of the two Phillips screws securing the clutch cover to the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

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Pull the clutch cover away from the front of the display. Keep track of the two covers that close the ends of the clutch cover. The third picture shows their correct orientation on the clutch cover. Keep track of the two covers that close the ends of the clutch cover. The third picture shows their correct orientation on the clutch cover.
  • Pull the clutch cover away from the front of the display.

  • Keep track of the two covers that close the ends of the clutch cover. The third picture shows their correct orientation on the clutch cover.

To reinstall the two covers, hold one with tweezers, push clutch cover up. Tilt it and do the other side.

tommalschaert - Reply

Remove the two pieces of tape over the display data/microphone cables near the lower edge of the display.
  • Remove the two pieces of tape over the display data/microphone cables near the lower edge of the display.

Check the microphone cable where it enters the display. The outer layer is often cracked and this causes the microphone to short out. Wrap a single layer of the yellow tape around the area where it touches the screen metal frame.

tommalschaert - Reply

Use the tip of a spudger to lift the microphone out of the front bezel. De-route the microphone cable from around the top and side of the display.
  • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the microphone out of the front bezel.

  • De-route the microphone cable from around the top and side of the display.

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Disconnect the display data cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the LCD. Pull the connector parallel to the face of the LCD.
  • Disconnect the display data cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the LCD.

  • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the LCD.

  • Remove the display data cable from the display.

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Remove the two pieces of tape covering the inverter/AirPort cables along the lower edge of the display.
  • Remove the two pieces of tape covering the inverter/AirPort cables along the lower edge of the display.

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Use the flat end of a spudger to push the backlight connector while gently pulling its cables away from the socket on the inverter. Lift the LCD out of the front bezel and set it aside.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to push the backlight connector while gently pulling its cables away from the socket on the inverter.

  • Lift the LCD out of the front bezel and set it aside.

Tweezers work a lot better than the spudger to remove the backlight connector...

dentoni - Reply

Remove the three Phillips screws securing the reed switch board and the AirPort antenna to the front bezel. If you have a 1.33 GHz 12" G4 iBook, the reed switch board is located near the optical drive. Please skip to the next step.
  • Remove the three Phillips screws securing the reed switch board and the AirPort antenna to the front bezel.

    • If you have a 1.33 GHz 12" G4 iBook, the reed switch board is located near the optical drive. Please skip to the next step.

  • De-route the reed switch/AirPort antenna cables around the side of the display.

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Gently peel the inverter cable ground strap off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges. While pulling the inverter cable away from its socket on the inverter board, use the tip of a spudger to push the connector out of its socket. If the connector won't budge from its socket, insert a metal spudger or similar tool into the gap between the connector and its socket and twist to separate the two pieces.
  • Gently peel the inverter cable ground strap off the cast aluminum frame of the clutch hinges.

  • While pulling the inverter cable away from its socket on the inverter board, use the tip of a spudger to push the connector out of its socket.

  • If the connector won't budge from its socket, insert a metal spudger or similar tool into the gap between the connector and its socket and twist to separate the two pieces.

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Remove the two Phillips screws securing the AirPort antenna to the front bezel. De-route the AirPort antenna cable along the edge of the display.
  • Remove the two Phillips screws securing the AirPort antenna to the front bezel.

  • De-route the AirPort antenna cable along the edge of the display.

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If you have a 1.33 GHz 12" G4 iBook, simply remove the Inverter/AirPort cables. For all other models, use the flat end of a spudger to remove the antenna board from the front bezel.
  • If you have a 1.33 GHz 12" G4 iBook, simply remove the Inverter/AirPort cables.

  • For all other models, use the flat end of a spudger to remove the antenna board from the front bezel.

  • The antenna board is very thin and delicate.

  • Remove the inverter/AirPort cables.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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