Introduction
ここでは、ボタンとトリガーボタンを修理するために下部基板を取り外す方法を紹介します。
What you need
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サイドハンドルを外すため、コントローラーをしっかりと握ります。スパッジャーをフロントとハンドルプレートの間にできた隙間に差し込みます。
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スパッジャーを前後に動かしながら、フロントプレートからサイドプレートを外します。サイドプレートの隙間全体にスパッジャーを動かして作業を進めてください。
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ハンダを除去し、モーターと基板をつないでいる赤と黒の導線を外します。
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ハンダを除去し、上部基板につながっている黒とグレーの導線を外します。
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モーターを外します。
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再度組み立てる際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
再度組み立てる際は、これらの手順を逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
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Team
Cal Poly, Team 20-15, Maness Winter 2015 Member of Cal Poly, Team 20-15, Maness Winter 2015
CPSU-MANESS-W15S20G15
5 Members
50 Guides authored
11 Comments
Is de-soldering optional?
Considering the placement of wires attached by solder on both sides of the top board, it would be quite difficult to reach anything beneath it otherwise. I suppose it depends on what you're trying to achieve.
In any case, you might as well try to move it without desoldering if desoldering is going to be an issue. Make sure not to pull hard, though.
Liam Gow -
I have a question... Will the motherboard you can get at the store here work it the newer controllers with built in headphone jack?
I would expect not, I'm afraid. The motherboards will probably have different circuitry, even if the shapes are the same, which they may not be.
Liam Gow -
The position/mounting of the LB and RB buttons on the motherboard piece between the day-one/sans-jack and the newer 3.5mm jack (non-Slim) boards are completely different.
The older revision motherboard has the mountings inverted (pointing downwards to the south end-headset attachment port- of the controller) compared to the newer ones.
The newer ones have the circuit with the bumper buttons mounted pointing to the north end toward the bumpers on the top of the controller.
