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Introduction

La batteria non dura più molto? Sostituiscila.

  1. Prima di aprire il tuo iPod, assicurati che l'interruttore Hold sia nella posizione bloccata.
    • Prima di aprire il tuo iPod, assicurati che l'interruttore Hold sia nella posizione bloccata.

  2. Infila attentamente un piccolo cacciavite a testa piatta o un Jimmy nella fessura tra la copertura in metallo e il bordo superiore in plastica bianca, quindi fai leva sul bordo in plastica. Stai attento a non danneggiare la plastica morbida con il tuo strumento.
    • Infila attentamente un piccolo cacciavite a testa piatta o un Jimmy nella fessura tra la copertura in metallo e il bordo superiore in plastica bianca, quindi fai leva sul bordo in plastica. Stai attento a non danneggiare la plastica morbida con il tuo strumento.

    • Il bordo superiore è tenuto fermo da dell'adesivo, quindi potresti dover fare leva in più posizioni per separarlo.

    • Per facilitare questo passaggio, scalda l'adesivo con un asciugacapelli impostato a basse temperature per qualche secondo.

    You can also gently use a metal spudger to lift up both the top and bottom bezels. Allow only 1/8" of the metal spudger (like the screwdriver in the picture) to get inside to get leverage, before fully lifting the bezel up. Please note where the little "teeth" are underneath the bezels, or you can damage those if you are not careful.

    Also, using too big of a flathead screwdriver can cause damage to the plastic and chips away plastic from where you were trying to pry up the bezels, ruining the look of the iPod.

    Ryan - Reply

    There should be a button here for "I did it -- EPIC FAILURE!!" When I put my iPod back together, the components on the mainboard were scraping against the clickwheel, and maybe the battery wasn't in perfect alignment, but the result was that there was a lethal amount of friction when sliding the assembly back into the case. As I was trying to relieve the pressure by tilting the board down using a spudger from the bottom, the top of the display bezel ended up scraping against the casing in such a way that it cracked from the center of the right edge. OUCH!! There goes a $50 repair job and a $40 replacement cost! Bye Bye perfectly working iPod Mini )-;

    There are two safeguards that can be done when reassembling this iPod. First, use a stiff piece of plastic film as a shim and lubricant between the top of the logic board and the top inside of the case, such as anti-static packaging, or the clear bag packaging of Apple display dongles (use an exacto knife to cut a long strip of it). Don't cover the display with the plastic, just the logic board components. Second, instead of pushing down on the assembly from the top or sides of the display which will place dangerous pressure on it, connect a cable to the dock connector and pull on it from the bottom, and pull out the plastic shield deftly and easily after the assembly is in position.

    steadfast I and I - Reply

    If it's held on by adhesive, how do I get it back on?

    Cam - Reply

    If you have longish fingernails and don't mind ruining them, I found it helpful to run my thumbnail between the plastic and the metal casing before going at it with a screwdriver. The little "teeth" a previous commenter mentioned are at approximately the 1/3 and 2/3 marks on the long edge of the plastic casings.

    rongshifen - Reply

    Instead of gouging the end caps out with the flat screwdriver, try hot gluing a piece of wood (I used a tongue depressor-like ‘craft stick’) to the end cap, then just lever the cap out without damaging the aluminum. Removing the stick and the glue from the end caps takes a little patience but can be done without leaving a mark.

    Human - Reply

    Don’t use any kind of metal tool to get these plastic caps off. Metal on metal will scratch up the body. I use a thin guitar pick, work it in between the cap and case, then turn it horizontal and slide around enough until you can use your fingernail to pull the cap the rest of the way off. Don’t be aggressive and break off the little fingers on the bottom side of the cap.

    Ken Mastri - Reply

    Use plastic picks or the back of an iSesamo tool to get in.

    TheYootz Media Group - Reply

  3. Solleva il bordo superiore dall'iPod.
    • Solleva il bordo superiore dall'iPod.

    A thinner blade, such as a small pocket knife blade worked for me.

    dean dillon - Reply

  4. Infila attentamente un cacciavite a testa piatta o un Jimmy nella fessura tra la copertura in metallo e il bordo inferiore in plastica bianca, quindi fai leva sul bordo in plastica. Stai attento a non danneggiare la plastica morbida con il tuo strumento.
    • Infila attentamente un cacciavite a testa piatta o un Jimmy nella fessura tra la copertura in metallo e il bordo inferiore in plastica bianca, quindi fai leva sul bordo in plastica. Stai attento a non danneggiare la plastica morbida con il tuo strumento.

    Again, be mindful and careful of the little white teeth on the underside of the plastic especially the two on the ends of the long sides.

    DITOSP - Reply

    I used Stanley knife blade to gently prise both top and bottom plastic covers

    jimbo20039 - Reply

    Like I do for the top, I use a thin plastic guitar pick to wedge between the plastic cap and metal case. Once it’s in, turn the pick horizontal (same as the cap) and work it around until you can get your fingernails under it. Also, I believe this cap is made to go on only one way, so maybe mark which edge is front or back

    Ken Mastri - Reply

  5. Un paio di piccole pinze per anelli elastici è lo strumento più comodo per rimuovere le staffe di bloccaggio in metallo.
    • Un paio di piccole pinze per anelli elastici è lo strumento più comodo per rimuovere le staffe di bloccaggio in metallo.

    • Puoi anche usare un cacciavite a testa piatta per fare leva sulle staffe sotto il bordo inferiore come mostrato. Puoi liberare le staffe spingendo i bracci in metallo negli angoli e quindi sollevando la staffa.

    Be *very* careful on the left hand side. It's almost too easy to scrape the click wheel cable and cause damage to it!

    LambdaCalculus - Reply

    I used a circlip tool and for removal and reinsertion. It was fast and easy and avoids bending the part. They are also referred to as snap ring pliers.

    thezazupits - Reply

    Quote from thezazupits:

    I used a circlip tool and for removal and reinsertion. It was fast and easy and avoids bending the part. They are also referred to as snap ring pliers.

    There are two kinds of snap ring pliers available. One pivots like regular pliers, one hinges in reverse (when you squeeze the handles, the tips spread). Use the first type.

    PZencak - Reply

    My click wheel lost some of its functionality. The back button, and the touch sensitivity to scroll through songs isn't working. :(

    coombsnahuel - Reply

    Hi,

    I have followed this very good tutorial as carefully as I could and I thank you very much for having posted it!

    However, my problem is not solved. After having connect-disconnect issues when used with car charger, the iPod started making faint noise when plugged and refused to charge or start-up. I thought it was a mechanical noise (hard drive?) but obviously it is not the case because battery and hard drive are now unplugged, and the board-screen assembly still makes the same noise when plugged in a USB socket (but of course I can't localize the origin of that noise).

    Do you have any idea what it might be due to?

    Thank you in advance for any advice,

    Maxime

    Maxime Gommeaux - Reply

    I would definitely recommend either circlip pliers to take out the metal retaining bracket because using a screwdriver leaves obvious marks on he corners of the case. I have noticed many for sale on eBay that have these marks. There are now plastic 'lifters' available to remove the top and bottom bezels and these are brilliant if used carefully and go in easily on the click wheel / screen side but be aware that when removing the bottom bezel it may bend the case a bit but it is easily persuaded back into shape. I too have carried out 64 GB, 128 GB and 256 GB conversions to the mini with a compact flash to SD card adapter and before fitting I format the card in my Sony Alpha 350 camera and it works a treat. My daughter loves her 128 gb converted mini and it's almost bombproof with a solid state memory on board.

    ptrmayhew6 - Reply

    Rather than pry the ends of the clip out, insert the flat screwdriver as shown ( maybe a little more straight up) and slide it toward the open end, lifting as you go, and the corner of the clip will pop right out.

    Human - Reply

    This is possibly the hardest part of this job for me. Getting this metal spring clip out without damaging the ribbon cable that’s right under one side is tricky. Take your time and use care to avoid touching the cable.

    Ken Mastri - Reply

    In my ‘repair’, I managed to do the above on the side away from the clickwheel connector. I pried it up, and gently wiggled it free from the space. That way you don’t need to go prying at the connector, at cost of causing some scrape marks on the inside of the casing. Rather have internal scrapes than needing to replace the clickwheel!

    Casey - Reply

  6. Solleva le staffe di bloccaggio in metallo dall'iPod.
    • Solleva le staffe di bloccaggio in metallo dall'iPod.

  7. Usa uno spudger o un'unghia per scollegare attentamente il cavo a nastro arancione della ghiera cliccabile dalla scheda madre.
    • Usa uno spudger o un'unghia per scollegare attentamente il cavo a nastro arancione della ghiera cliccabile dalla scheda madre.

    • Stai attento a non infilare lo spudger troppo a fondo per evitare di rompere i contatti sulla scheda madre. Cerca di tenere lo spudger il più vicino possibile al connettore del cavo a nastro della ghiera cliccabile.

    Be careful with the ribbon: do not pull on the actual ribbon itself. I made the mistake of doing this (as this guide isn't clear about it), and it caused my clickwheel to be glitchy and unresponsive.

    I'd recommend using the flathead screwdriver and prying gently upward on the white connector (called a molex plug) below the orange ribbon. If it doesn't come out at first, go slow and don't use a lot of force. You'll want to use the same technique when disconnecting the battery plug later.

    Illumina - Reply

    hello !

    When I disconnected the orange click wheel ribbon, accidentally I rip de orange wheel ribbon.

    You have a new piece to send to me ?

    thank You

    Paulo

    ptmont1 - Reply

    The important key here, is to note that the ribbon cable is connected by a Molex plug. Use the small flat screwdriver to gently lift the plug, not the ribbon off.

    Lisa W - Reply

    As others have said, do NOT pull up on the orange ribbon cable itself, because it will easily break off of the clip that’s attached to it underneath, and your click wheel will be ruined. Use a small flat screwdriver to gently and gradually pry out the white plastic plug by pushing on one side then the other, rocking it out.

    Ken Mastri - Reply

    On my iPod Mini, the white part is the female connector. The male molex connector was black. It’s difficult to see in such a compact space, so be careful you don’t start trying to pry the whole connector off the board!

    Casey - Reply

  8. Svita le due viti a croce Phillips #00 che fissano la presa jack alla copertura.
    • Svita le due viti a croce Phillips #00 che fissano la presa jack alla copertura.

  9. Sfila attentamente l'iPod dalla sua copertura spingendo la scheda madre dal bordo inferiore.
    • Sfila attentamente l'iPod dalla sua copertura spingendo la scheda madre dal bordo inferiore.

    • Non tirarla dalla scheda della presa jack sul bordo superiore dell'iPod, in quanto la connessione con la scheda madre è fragile.

    • Stai attento a non rompere il connettore della scheda madre dall'iPod. Il cavo a nastro si trova proprio sopra il connettore.

    If you're iPod is dented in anyway expect this to not easily slide out. Took me a few minutes of prying on parts to get it to slide.

    brock fansler - Reply

  10. Dopo aver sfilato a sufficienza la scheda madre, prendila delicatamente da entrambi i lati dello schermo per tirarla e continuare a sfilarla dalla copertura dell'iPod.
    • Dopo aver sfilato a sufficienza la scheda madre, prendila delicatamente da entrambi i lati dello schermo per tirarla e continuare a sfilarla dalla copertura dell'iPod.

  11. Solleva la batteria dalla scheda madre e appoggiala lì accanto.
    • Solleva la batteria dalla scheda madre e appoggiala lì accanto.

  12. Scollega attentamente la batteria dalla scheda madre. Assicurati di tirare solo il connettore e non i cavi della batteria.
    • Scollega attentamente la batteria dalla scheda madre. Assicurati di tirare solo il connettore e non i cavi della batteria.

    If you need to, place the fingernail of one of your fingers, or use a spudger, to hold down the base where the iPod battery is connected. Take your time and have patience too. Using too much force can separate the base and ruin the logic board.

    Ryan - Reply

    The replacement battery from ifixit had a paper wrapping that I removed before installing. Also, the wire lead was much longer than the original so it had to be tucked in carefully.

    DITOSP - Reply

    I replaced the bat on two mini's and though each was a little different (removing from the metal body) this couldn't have been easier. I did use snap ring pliers to remove the bottom clip. Using them made it much easier as I was having trouble with the screwdrivers and the pliers are made for this purpose. All and all very satisfactory experience.

    mbob518 - Reply

    Well, there you go. I think I pulled up the base of the battery cable, the part that's soldered to the logic board (sickening snap). It seems connected at one solder point, but levers up from 4 other points. Not so good. Anyone thin I could solder this back with no issues? Heat? Solder composition? Hate to think I've come this far to have simply ruined the thing.

    xfrench - Reply

    the replacement battery is MUCH thicker than the original or a previous replacement battery.

    The innards will not slide into place with the battery installed. Slides in and out easily with the previous, thinner, battery.

    Did I get the incorrect battery??

    mrmacfixit - Reply

    I have put everything back together and put it on charge. Now it's only showing the apple sign is that normal or something is wrong

    Nikki Fairley - Reply

    The battery is a tight fit, and if the new battery doesn’t exactly match the size and shape of the original, it simply won’t fit. It has to nestle under the headphone board without putting force on it. Also it’s very important to wrap the battery wires around and out of the way in the same fashion as the original so that they don’t cause a problem when sliding the board assembly back into the body.

    Ken Mastri - Reply

Conclusion

Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

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iRobot

Member since: 09/24/2009

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647 Guides authored

19 Comments

At step 7, it must be noted that the orange click wheel ribbon is connected to a plastic attachment, which is connected to the logic board. In disconnecting the click wheel ribbon don't pull the ribbon from its plastic attachment.

ggreif - Reply

i cant seem to slide it away from the casing, im pushing on the charger port and no movement what so ever

Chris Rafferty - Reply

Maybe the metal is bent, or the plastic on the top of the unit is somehow stuck. I'd look for a bend or disfigured metal, though.

nclee -

@mrmacfixit you must have. If it's the same voltage as the old battery, it will work, but you DON'T want to risk puncturing it forcing it into the case.

nclee - Reply

It really did take a hairdryer to get the bezels off! Be patient working it all back into the case ,

rscoombes - Reply

Do you know perhaps the size of the screws?

Fotios Tzortzoglou - Reply

Great explanations!!

All went smoothly.

Thanks Ifix it!!

aufred - Reply

I ordered a replacement battery here on iFixit, and it is slightly larger in size than the original. To make it fit height-wise, you need to take the blue pads off the hard drive, which would make it wobble around. Additionally, the battery is a bit thicker, so it doesn't slide into the case easily, and I don’t want to break anything by forcing it. Anyone else have a similar problem with a battery they ordered on here? I expected better than this from iFixit. My old battery still works, so I will use that for the time being.

Daniel Korzhenevich - Reply

UPDATE: I took apart my iPod again, and after a lot of pushing, checking, and pushing again, I got the battery to fit in. I had to use a piece of foam and some double-sided tape to secure my hard drive instead of the blue rubber pads to make the battery fit in height-wise. This is OK in my situation, because I have replaced the hard drive with a compact flash card, but actual hard drives need the cushioning from the blue pads so they don’t break as easily.

Daniel Korzhenevich -

I ordered the iFixit battery, and it is slightly higher and thicker, but seemed to fit in place. The connecting wires were longer, so it seemed difficult to fit them as smoothly as the original, but again, it finally seemed to fit. I followed the directions, and all seemed to go well. The iPod turned on and the click wheel responded. It seemed slightly “glitchy”, and I could not get the unit to turn off. I continued the reassembly anyway, but after I replaced the bottom white plate, the light would not go on, and the screen appears frozen on a song. No more response. I finished reassembling the unit, and hope a full charge will restore it to proper function. Disappointed overall, since I might not be able to backup my old iPod. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Lisa W - Reply

i know this is a old comment, but u sheared off a resistor (i watch a youtuber, and the iPod will do…wierd things…if the resistor is sheared off of course) so u would need to replace the logic board

the bongo guy -

Yes, after a full charge, the unit is working. The instructions and pictures were clear. This was a good fix!

Lisa W - Reply

If you happen to make marks on the plastic top of the iPod especially if the marks are on the edge, you can sand down the edges with a nail file or fine sandpaper to make it look better.

If the top is bulging its probably because there is a lot of adhesive there and making it appear as if its lifting up, in my case my iPod was already opened by someone else so there was a ton of adhesive, removing it will make the top and bottom parts sit flush with the housing again.

Sara Zielinski - Reply

How do you reattach the top and bottom white plates? Hot glue, foam tape, something else?

mrbelm - Reply

Battery replacement went smoothly (I thought) but now the sound is all messed up. It’s like I’m only getting one channel in both earphones but weirder - like everything is swimming in reverb. What did I break?

johnhoskinson - Reply

I will never attempt this fix again. At this point the device is 15 years old. The original battery was swollen and getting the assembly out of the case was very difficult. The connector for the touch wheel broke in the process. Also the cables in the replacement battery are significantly thicker than in the original one which makes it harder to accommodate when putting it back together.

I replaced screens in several iPhones before but this was way harder. Now I the iPod is gone and it makes me very sad since it was my first iDevice buy with my own savings and it kept me company for years while I had to commute many hours a day to work and night clases.

Better luck to you if you attempt this repair.

Diego Alifano - Reply

In my repair I was replacing the battery with a ‘Camron Sino’ branded replacement. The battery is packed almost identically to the original battery, however there was more of a bulge where the cables are wrapped in. This annoyingly meant it would not fit in the recess. If you do the CF adapter swap, it would appear to be slightly smaller. This meant a bit more wiggle room for the battery, and was able to get it all together.

Step 2 & 3 people and the guide comment about prying up in the gap. Well the Apple engineer went full specialist mode on the one I had, because there was no gap. In my situation, I resorted to using my smallest precision flathead driver head to pry up a very small recess, then jammed a spudger into the gap. This does cause some slight warping on the panels, but I couldn’t easily see another way. How this repair is rated moderate is beyond me…

Casey - Reply

Depending on the condition of the case. You might need to push up the mother board with something long and thin when putting it back in.

Scott Vogel - Reply

Note from person who did this guide be careful around the clickwheel ribbon cable

KindacringebroNGL - Reply

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