Potentially Dangerous
Injury may result if this procedure is not followed properly. Use caution and follow all warnings.


Rebuild a dead Rollei battery with modern LiFePO4 cells.

Note that the voltage of a fully charged LiFePO4 drops slightly when power is used by the camera. This causes the camera to display an almost depleted battery (at least my 6008AF does that). This is nothing to worry about, especially since LIFePO4 batteries keep their voltage level pretty well during discharge.

Video Overview

  1. Save the tiny screws. They are easily lost and hard to replace.
    • Save the tiny screws. They are easily lost and hard to replace.

    • Watch out the cables inside may very short.

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  2. Depending on battery type this may look a bit different.
    • Depending on battery type this may look a bit different.

    • Sometimes the batteries have a very tight fit and are not to easy to remove. Try pulling with pliers

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    • The original NiCd batteries had two additional cables for a temperature sensor. See yellow one, which also has the original plastic housing.

    • Be sure to dispose the old battery pack properly. They contain harmful chemicals and need special treatment for waste disposal!

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    • This step helps later to have the solder stick to the batteries

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    • I had to turn around one of the batteries later in the guide to allow easier soldering... depends on the wiring though.

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    • The PCB/BMS Board plus wiring diagram

    • The wiring diagram may be different depending on the PCB used. But the principle is the same for all types.

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    • Check the size of the battery pack together with the BMS Board. It should easily fit with a bit of space inside the housing. Otherwise you may get problems down the road of this guide.

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    • You can also use normal thin wire, but be aware that the space within the housing is limited.

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    • This is based on the specific PCB used and my be different for others

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    • Add a bit of solder on the connector you want to use next. I started with B+ and connected it to the + pole of the first battery.

    • Test again if everything fits in the housing.

    • Warning! The housing is metal. Make sure not to short-cut something!

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    • Again do not short cut anything!

    • The hilium connector helps here to save lots of space compared to wires

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    • Fold the hilium and use pliers to flatten it

    • Use scissors to cut to the right length

    • Again add a bit of solder before soldering the hilium connector

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    • See the finalised soldering of Step 12

    • Use electric tape to isolate the finished work (this prevents shortcuts)

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    • Try to isolate but do not cover the writings on the PCB so you can still see, what is already wired.

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    • It is hard to get the orientation if all batteries correct on first try. But the tape allows cutting and reorientation if needed.

    • This is only needed to use less of the connector and allow easier wiring without crossings

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    • Again add a bit of solder to the poles.

    • And use fold the connector tape.

    • Watch out for shortcuts

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    • Now you see why the electrical tape is needed for isolation. If the connector roll is touching the wrong parts you may get a short cut, that may brick your PCB.

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    • The pliers help to not burn your fingers.

    • See on 2nd picture how much space we save with the hilium connectors.

    • On 3rd picture we see how solder punctured the electrical tape. In the next step we add another layer for security.

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    • I cut the electrical tape to not cover the markings on the PCB.

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    • Adding another layer of isolation as we have crossing hilium connectors here.

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    • Note from the wiring diagram the B3-connector of the PCB is unused.

    • So we add electrical tape to isolate it.

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    • These are the charge/discharge ports of our battery pack

    • Be sure that the length of the wire is long enough to wire it to the Rollei outlet later.

    • If you use a multimeter to check the voltage you will see it's 0V

    • The PCB needs to be activated, we do this by doing some short charging

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    • A bit of charging is sufficient. The MaHa charger shows the voltage of 10,4V

    • Now also the multimeter shows the correct voltage.

    • The PCB is now activated and the battery pack correctly wired.

    • If this step is not working as expected, then check all wiring, soldering and diagrams again to validate there are no mistakes.

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    • This is the most tricky soldering part.

    • Make sure there is not anything connected that shouldn't.

    • The battery has two + and two - poles. Make sure the + (white cable) is connected to the right input. Have a look at the red cables. One is going directly to the camera connector. The other one is protected by a fuse that protects your camera.

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    • Find out how much foam you need by putting the battery pack with foam layers outside of the housing.

    • Keep space for wires and fuse at the top.

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    • Align battery pack, lid and housing

    • Notice that the screws are on one side only.

    • Two tiny squares snap into the other side.

    • Check that the lid is closing completely, without much pressure (Pic. 3). Otherwise remove a bit foam

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    • Final assembly steps

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    • Note: the lid is now turned around (thus mirrored to the wiring diagram)

    • It is expected that the two connectors to the right produce 0V

    • Make sure you get roughly 10V with the right polarity

    • Repeat this step, to double-check. BEFORE inserting the battery into your camera.

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    • Fill the two unused connectors (from the temp sensor) with hard glue. This prevents users from accidentally using a Rollei Charger N or G, which are not suitable for the battery type and might cause fire or explosion.

    • Charge the battery with a Lithium capable LiFePO4 charger only!

    • Notice that the battery has now only 81g compared to 210g for the old NiCd.

    • Happy using your Rollei again!

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Have fun with your Rollei again! :)


Member since: 11/16/2015

111 Reputation

1 Guide authored


Hello Markus,

I have followed your instructions to rebuilt the battery pack. Batteries charged as expected to 10.4V, however both of my cameras 6008I and 6008 AF showing “Charge” briefly and will not turn on with the new LiFePo4 pack. I think the selected voltage of 9.6V is probably just too low.


Victor Dombrovskiy

Victor Dombrovskiy - Reply

Hello Victor,

It looks like we have the same issue with our 6008 AF. Mine does not work correctly. It turns on, it meters exposure but neither AF no rewind mechanism work. I am arrfaid the reason is not voltage only, there should be other reason.

Kind regards,


hermanneinbinder - Reply

Hey guys, sad to hear it’s not yet working for you. The initial current the camera draws is pretty high (around 4,5A peak). So make sure the cells you chose can deliver this current.

Markus - Reply

Hi,++Markus++ ,

What charger is used to charge the battery?

kinglang - Reply

I am using one of these: P2012-l3 12.6v 1.5a LiPo Lithium Ion Charger for 11.1V Li-ion Battery

The PCB BMS Protection Board for 3 Packs 18650 LiFePO4 LiFe Battery Cell 3S does the balancing and cut off. So every “C.V. Voltage for LiFePo4: 10.8V±1%” should work.

Markus - Reply


That link had been failed.I want to ask is you list charge is a DC mount, how to contact with battery ? battery has six holes.If you provide a photo when charging battery is very good.

kinglang - Reply

Soshine also have 14500-900mah 3.7V, Is this more appropriate?

kinglang - Reply

This is my charging tray: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215677...

and again a link for the exact charger I use: https://www.ebay.com/itm/P2012-l3-12-6v-...

The 3.7V batteries would be LiIon not LiFePO4. the LiFePO4 have 3.33V which adds up to the 10V. 3.7V * 3 sums up to 11.1V. Which I didn’t want to try back then (risk of damaging the camera with over voltage). But there is now a company offering LiPo battery replacements (see here for picture: https://www.photoscala.de/2017/10/05/neu...).

SO to sum it up, the 11.1V doesn’t seem to be a problem for the cameras. To do so, you will need another BMS Board (for 3S LiPO/LiIon) though to have another cutoff voltage.

Markus - Reply

I’ve had a lot of trouble with batteries, and had multiple versions of rebuilds. The LiPo rebuilds won’t work with the 6008AF. I don’t think this will reliably work either. PLUS. You’re bypassing the temp sensor. That means you risk frying your main board on the camera. Impossible to buy. The batteries that have been converted previously to LiPo have the sensor removed, meaning they can’t be rebuilt properly. So the supply of good shells is dwindling. I have two fully empty shells that were sold to me as fully functioning. Not.

Essentially, the guys who really know these cameras are suggesting NiMH Only, especially for the 6008AF.

jiffyman - Reply

Well I also had lots of troubles with batteries. The NiMH variants (self build and ready made pick from China) both had too low voltage for my 6008AF. (I was using the MaHa charger to charge). Then I had many trails with LiIon and Voltage converters (1 and 3 cells). The LiFe setup as described above works for me. The camera is fully functional on a battery that has been charged 6 months ago (don’t have PQS lenses though). Your comment on the thermal sensor and motherboard frying is completely wrong. The sensor is to prevent overheating while charging. What you’re referring to is the fuse. Just look inside the battery compartment of the camera the thermal sensor isn’t even connected.

Markus - Reply

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