The BMS is doing the balancing of the pack. If you don’t have one you’ll have to charge each cell
individually to not fry one while trying to get the others to the same charge level. You’ll have to get the cells out of the Rollei battery case each time nothing I would recommend. It’s rather tight in there.
I know some guys have built replacements with LiPo packs. Look for Turnigy nano-tech 11.1V packs. EFLB4503SJ30 or https://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-Nano-tech... but the second one is supposed to be very tight. Be sure to check the size before. Also you have to get the balancer connector accessible some how. But that would be less soldering.
Just checked: Charging voltageDC:11V CC/CV so you need an 11V CC/CV charger for it (at least from what I can see from the data sheet).
Hi Simon, depends on the max Voltage specs for the BMS. Check the max. input voltage in the datasheet. I would assume it to be fine but make sure to check before so you don’t fry the BMS.
Sorry its Phototechnik Wiese: https://www.photoscala.de/2017/10/05/neu...
They also use LiPo 11,1V packs like those you (?) linked above. I was also looking into that, but didn’t find a pack that would fit into the original case.
I had the issues you have with the camera showing “Charge” with a premanufactured NiMh pack I purchased from eBay, wich just had 9,6V. The cameras seem to be very picky on the voltage.
Also the high initial drain creates a voltage drop on many batteries. I tried to measure the current once, but the tools I had supported max. 2A and those I got.
Also check what the battery management board you use can handle as max current. That could also be the bottleneck. Or the type of wiring inside the battery. Thats why I used those flat connectors.
sorry to hear that. I just have a 6008AF which shows a half full battery with the 10V of my pack. It stays in a functional state for months without recharge and I am able to use the camera for many roles of film. I was initially trying to get this done with LiIon batteries and step-down bucket converter, but those didn’t deliver the needed current for the camera. It’s the linear motors of the shutter that has high initial drain. You can check if the current is too high by powering the camera without a lens attached. If it works then the maximum current delivered by the pack is not sufficient. Otherwise your camera wants to have a higher voltage. I was scared to fry the camera if i use much higher voltage. 3x3,7V of LiIon for example. But meanwhile I know Wiesner Phototechnik created a 11,1V pack so I guess it would have been ok. But after charging the LiIons tend to have 4,1-4,2V which would be 12,6V not sure if s.o. here know this would be too much.
The pins (to solder on somewhere) that are readily available all are either to thin (1mm) or too thick. So I ended up using two small nails I had available with 1,5mm diameter. Just make sure to shorted with pliers. Also used some sanding paper to get rid of the rust proving surface to make sure there is electric conductivity. When gluing in the „pins“ I made sure they have a slight angle on a few degrees so it actually „locks“ the battery slightly .
Currently this link can be used to order a charger: https://www.ebay.com/itm/11V-Charger-1A-...
updated the guide to include the charging tray also.
You basically need an CCCV charger for LiFe. If you got the BMC built in it it will handle the balancing of the three cells and cut off if charged.
Basically the search term is LiFePo4 charger 3S (3 cells) e.g. something like that: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/3281134765...
I also created a 3D Model for a charger stand (to be 3D printed) . If you like I have a spare set (unused that I would sell) . Otherwise the model is available here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:215677...
Well I also had lots of troubles with batteries. The NiMH variants (self build and ready made pick from China) both had too low voltage for my 6008AF. (I was using the MaHa charger to charge). Then I had many trails with LiIon and Voltage converters (1 and 3 cells). The LiFe setup as described above works for me. The camera is fully functional on a battery that has been charged 6 months ago (don’t have PQS lenses though). Your comment on the thermal sensor and motherboard frying is completely wrong. The sensor is to prevent overheating while charging. What you’re referring to is the fuse. Just look inside the battery compartment of the camera the thermal sensor isn’t even connected.
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