Introduction

A guide to replacing the screen or LCD on an LG VX9200, also known as the enV3. Involves a little soldering and a bit of tedious micro-work, but not enough to be impossible for the newcomer.

Oops... it happens to almost everyone. Dropped, stepped on, twisted, sent through the wrong cycle in life. Your LCD got busted. Well, for many that involves shelling out a few hundred bucks on a new phone, or scrapping one phone for a different, lesser model. Not anymore. For under $50 and about an hour of work (maybe half an hour if you're quick), you can replace that broken screen! Get ready to get your hands dirty...

Obvious time! Turn off the phone. Can't see the shutdown screen for the obvious fact that... it's broken! Remove the battery.
  • Obvious time! Turn off the phone. Can't see the shutdown screen for the obvious fact that... it's broken!

  • Remove the battery.

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Remove 3 screw covers from the hinge-edge of the phone using the edge of a razor blade, or the like. They just pop out.
  • Remove 3 screw covers from the hinge-edge of the phone using the edge of a razor blade, or the like. They just pop out.

  • When reinstalling, note that the center cover goes with the divot towards the battery. The other two can fit only one way and are interchangeable.

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Remove 5 small black screws from the back cover. I used a #00 Philips screwdriver, but a #0 should also work as well. Remove 5 small black screws from the back cover. I used a #00 Philips screwdriver, but a #0 should also work as well.
  • Remove 5 small black screws from the back cover. I used a #00 Philips screwdriver, but a #0 should also work as well.

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Prepare for the next step by flipping all the covers open. Helps to avoid them getting stuck when cracking the case open. Use a fingernail or other non-metal object (to avoid denting/marking the plastic) to separate the case around the edge. The whole edge is held together with snaps that will come apart with just a little snap. When reassembling, check at this point that you remembered the little 3-button panel, and that all the flip-covers are in place, they tend to fall off!
  • Prepare for the next step by flipping all the covers open. Helps to avoid them getting stuck when cracking the case open.

  • Use a fingernail or other non-metal object (to avoid denting/marking the plastic) to separate the case around the edge. The whole edge is held together with snaps that will come apart with just a little snap.

  • When reassembling, check at this point that you remembered the little 3-button panel, and that all the flip-covers are in place, they tend to fall off!

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Disconnect the front flip cable from the logic board. It just snaps up and off. Remove the logic PCB, simply by lifting any corner and working it out around the one cable.
  • Disconnect the front flip cable from the logic board. It just snaps up and off.

  • Remove the logic PCB, simply by lifting any corner and working it out around the one cable.

  • Remove the flexible keyboard from the frame.

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The case comes off the front display by bending the frame around clips in the hinges. On the side with the cable, bend the outer edge toward the screen to get it around a post. The side with the cable has an insert that tends to slide backwards when the opposite side isn't holding it in place. Push it back in during reassembly if you're finding that you can't get the case to fit back on.
  • The case comes off the front display by bending the frame around clips in the hinges. On the side with the cable, bend the outer edge toward the screen to get it around a post.

  • The side with the cable has an insert that tends to slide backwards when the opposite side isn't holding it in place. Push it back in during reassembly if you're finding that you can't get the case to fit back on.

  • To get the mechanism side off, it takes a little more bending force. Bend the left edge (hence the rest of the frame) outwards toward the screen to get it off, and it'll release around the metal hinge mechanism.

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Remove four screw covers from around the screen. Stick them to something clean, so they can be re-stuck later. Remove four small silver screws. They are all of the same size.
  • Remove four screw covers from around the screen. Stick them to something clean, so they can be re-stuck later.

  • Remove four small silver screws. They are all of the same size.

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The cover can be snapped apart in a similar fashion to the bottom case. Next to the new screen, you can see what's still left to be removed. This involves a little bit of soldering, but not too much.
  • The cover can be snapped apart in a similar fashion to the bottom case.

  • Next to the new screen, you can see what's still left to be removed. This involves a little bit of soldering, but not too much.

  • When reassembling, ensure that the button pad is fully seated in each of the pegs. This can prevent the cover from snapping together properly. It's a pretty tight fit!

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Here comes the fun part. You see that? LG decided to solder down the snap connectors to the display and keypad. It's your job to disconnect them... somehow. To disconnect them, I applied upward pressure to the edge of the connector (which also held the board up with one hand), and applied the tip of the soldering iron to the edge I was pulling up on. When it melted, it popped off, leaving the other side. Repeat for each side until both cables are disconnected. These connections are very fragile. The cable from the hinge is a multi-layer cable with many thin layers. It's not recommended to desolder only the display connector, as it won't allow enough room to move and would stress the hinge cable quite a bit.
  • Here comes the fun part. You see that? LG decided to solder down the snap connectors to the display and keypad. It's your job to disconnect them... somehow.

  • To disconnect them, I applied upward pressure to the edge of the connector (which also held the board up with one hand), and applied the tip of the soldering iron to the edge I was pulling up on. When it melted, it popped off, leaving the other side. Repeat for each side until both cables are disconnected.

  • These connections are very fragile. The cable from the hinge is a multi-layer cable with many thin layers. It's not recommended to desolder only the display connector, as it won't allow enough room to move and would stress the hinge cable quite a bit.

  • When I disconnected the LCD cable, it splashed a little solder onto the contacts. Fortunately, it requires heat to prep the metal to adhere to solder, so it simply flaked off with the edge of the razor blade. DO NOT use the soldering iron to try to clean any accidental blobs, it will only result in disaster.

  • When reassembling, be sure not to keep the heat on it too long. Plastic likes to melt.

  • After the LCD display has been removed, you'll have to desolder the connection holding the little speaker(?) in the upper corner. The way this is assembled is there are two layers sandwiched together. So just heat the two connections while pulling them slightly and they'll come right apart when the solder melts. You'll have to re-attach it to the new LCD.

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Remove 2 small silver screws from the LCD support frame. They are the same size. Remove 3 strips of tape - 2 silver and 1 blue.
  • Remove 2 small silver screws from the LCD support frame. They are the same size.

  • Remove 3 strips of tape - 2 silver and 1 blue.

  • When reassembling, I left the tape stuck to my coffee table. It's up to you. I wouldn't recommend re-using it, it's likely lost all its "stick".

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Use the edge of a razor blade to lift up the edge of the speaker wire, while applying the tip of the soldering iron to the blobs. It'll separate from the LCD cable with practically zero effort.
  • Use the edge of a razor blade to lift up the edge of the speaker wire, while applying the tip of the soldering iron to the blobs. It'll separate from the LCD cable with practically zero effort.

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Using the edge of the razor blade or other suitable device, un-stick the earpiece connector from the panel and let it flop free.
  • Using the edge of the razor blade or other suitable device, un-stick the earpiece connector from the panel and let it flop free.

  • Finally, the LCD can be removed! You can assist the LCD removal from the under-side, there's no cover in the way.

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Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

10 other people completed this guide.

Matt Falcon

Member since: 02/20/2010

255 Reputation

1 Guide authored

12 Comments

Great writing, thanks for showing how to fix your phone!

Luke Soules - Reply

Quote from Luke Soules:

Great writing, thanks for showing how to fix your phone!

Hey, I learned from the best... I didn't have a nice clean white background to work with, but I did what I could :) Thanks for the comment! More to come as I end up with more things to fix...

Matt Falcon - Reply

Do you know where a small black rectangular piece (has another small rectangle w/a tab on top & a light grey outline of a rectangle underneath) goes inside of the env3? It popped out sometime between steps 4-6 and I can't figure out where I should put it. Any help would be great. Thanks!

J S - Reply

Quote from J S:

Do you know where a small black rectangular piece (has another small rectangle w/a tab on top & a light grey outline of a rectangle underneath) goes inside of the env3? It popped out sometime between steps 4-6 and I can't figure out where I should put it. Any help would be great. Thanks!

Hmm, without a picture I really couldn't tell ya. All I can do is look at the pictures and take a stab guess... you can click the pictures in the guide to get a bigger version, maybe that'll help?

Heck, at either rate, thanks for posting! I know for every 1 person having a problem there's at least 10 other people that ran it all the way through without a problem :)

Matt Falcon - Reply

has another small rectangle w/a tab on top & a light grey outline of a rectangle underneath...

Wait... that could be the earpiece, although that'd be further down than step 6, that's for sure. That's the only thing I had pop out of mine...

Matt Falcon - Reply

Quote from Matt Falcon:

Wait... that could be the earpiece, although that'd be further down than step 6, that's for sure. That's the only thing I had pop out of mine...

Earpiece...um, I'm not sure, but I'm gonna say probably not, although I could be wrong. I tried to look @ your larger photos to see if I could see it somewhere in the pictures, but I couldn't. I'm thinking it's maybe somewhere between where the flexible keyboard & the other side of the battery unit? I'm new to this website; do you know if there is somewhere I can post the picture of the piece?

J S - Reply

I added a step 13 so that you can see pictures of what the piece looks like (you can delete it afterwards if you'd like). Any help you might have on where to put it would be much appreciated. Thanks!

J S - Reply

Quote from J S:

I added a step 13 so that you can see pictures of what the piece looks like (you can delete it afterwards if you'd like). Any help you might have on where to put it would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Aha! Just as I suspected... picture really helps :) I yanked my phone apart for the first few steps to get the cover off, and sure enough, it's the microphone guide. It slips into a slot in the bottom cover (with the battery area cutout) on the other side of the mic hole next to the USB port cutout. Grey part goes up. Don't think it's an absolutely essential part, but it might be used to provide good mic quality (probably doesn't pick up well without it). But that's definitely it :)

Matt Falcon - Reply

Thank you!!! I wasn't sure about where it went and I was definitely looking in the wrong place, even after reading your comment (I think I wasn't quite awake), but after re-reading it, yes, I've figured out where it goes & it fits perfectly there :)

Do you happen to know what type of screw/clip/metal object is inside of the left hinge of the plastic for the keyboard in step 6, by the front clip pictured with the #4 that was written on the metal piece that you detach from the logic board? I think somehow in the process of disassembling & now reassembling the phone, the screw/knob (?) fell out (I didn't think that was possible) and now when trying to put the plastic of the keyboard back on, I have nothing to pull over the left hinge (by the # 4 metal) so the keyboard frame doesn't want to close/open smoothly without bending.

J S -

Hmm, couldn't tell ya there, then. I do know there was only one hinge/tension mechanism on the phone, not 2, so it'll flex/bend when the whole phone isn't assembled. There's one keyed side (with the tensioner), and one round side (that has the screen cable going through it). Left/right is kinda ambiguous... they reverse when you flip the phone around so I have no point of reference ;)

Matt Falcon -

It's the one on the round side that has the screen cable going through it. Maybe a regular screw would fit inside of it?

J S -

Ah. Well, that side has a small plastic insert that has the "nub" on it which holds the screen in place, and can probably slide out pretty easily. I dunno where you'd be able to fit a screw in it... but if you're referring to a hole in the screen side, yeah, that's probably where the plastic insert should be sticking out. It's kind of an A-shaped thing. It can slide back and get in the way of putting it back together... when the frame is assembled, both sides hold it in place. Jeez, you sure do lose a lot of parts... lol

Matt Falcon -

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